Visiting Totnes
Totnes (pronounced Tot-ness) is one of the prettiest towns in England. Delicious 16th century properties huddle beside timbered inns on a medieval high street with a castle at its crown. According to legend, Brutus – sole survivor of besieged Troy, sailed up the Dart and proclaimed the foundation of Totnes. More likely is that the town was founded by the Saxons with a name derived from Totta’s ‘ness’ or headland.
Totnes, like Frome or Glastonbury, has a bit of a quirk to it. The streets aren’t quite filled with the smell of incense but there’s a liberal artsy feel to the town. Totnes is actually known locally for its eco-friendly mindset and shop-local initiatives. The town until recently had its own currency and you won’t struggle for a vegan menu or plastic-free refill shop. It’s a really nice town and retains its artistic reputation despite the closing of the Dartington College of Arts. Good schools, green spaces and a riverside complete the picture. It’s a lovely place.
Totnes History
Despite the Brutus legends, the earliest recording of Totnes is from the 10th century when King Edward fortified the town. Totnes was by this time already minting its own coins and successfully trading through its port. Following the Norman Conquest, William I gave Totnes to the Breton adventurer Judhael de Totenais, who built the castle. By the 12th century, Totnes’ importance was growing thanks to its port and position on the road heading southwest. A monument to the town’s wealth is its red sandstone parish church, paid for largely by the merchants of the time. It was built in competition with Totnes Priory – the local monastery that was dissolved by Henry VIII in 1539.
The many fine houses that abound in Totnes owe their existence to the success of its port in the 16th and 17th centuries. Tin and cloth were exported to France in exchange for canvas and linen. In 1523 Totnes was one of the 12 richest towns in England with wool and tin merchants cramming their houses on the high street to show their wealth. This was boom time for Totnes. A grammar school and guildhall were built in the same century.
Totnes remains largely an Elizabethan town, though a lot of ‘re-fronting and re-fashioning’ was done to modernise its appearance in the 18th century. It continued to do well but was never quite as prosperous as before. Nevertheless things picked up for Totnes in the early 19th century as a result of road improvements and the construction of the new bridge over the Dart in 1828. The approaches to the bridge and riverside were the focus of loft new-builds, with lofty suburban villas being built. In 1810 the town’s ancient West Gate was demolished due to traffic concerns, with the East Gate (for which Totnes is iconic for) being altered and re-fronted in the gothic style in 1835.
Today, Totnes retains its historical charm with almost 500 listed buildings (a lot for a small town). In 2006 it became the first transition town, a growing movement to strengthen local economies and reduce environmental impact. Despite the end of the Totnes Pound, it remains a community centred place to live and one of the best in the South West.
Things to do in Totnes
- Totnes Guildhall
- Totnes Castle
- St Mary’s Church
- Totnes Shops
- Totnes Elizabethan House Museum
- Totnes Fashion & Textile Museum
- Totnes Town Trail
- Totnes Brutus Stone
- Totnes Image Bank Photographic Archive
- Dartington Hall
- Dartmouth Steam Railway & River Boat
- Totnes Rare Breeds Farm
1. Totnes Guildhall
Totnes Guildhall is a testament to the wealth brought to Totnes in the Tudor era. Built in 1553 on the ruins of the old medieval priory, the guildhall has been the centre of the town’s administrative, legal and ceremonial life for centuries. At first what strikes you is the scale of the building – it doesn’t look particularly big or imposing. (It wasn’t until the Georgian era really that civic buildings started to be built on a grand scale.) In its lifetime, the guildhall has served as a court, prison and meeting place. It’s still where the council runs its business. Inside you can see the boards in Lower Hall which lists 600 mayors in gold leaf. You can also see the original cells where prisoners awaited trial and punishment until 1887. Upstairs you can view the Council Chamber, where Oliver Cromwell sat in 1646.
Adult – Free | Concession – Free | Children – Free
2. Totnes Castle
A visit to Totnes Castle is one of the best things to do in Totnes. From a distance, it doesn’t look particularly grand, being rather squat in shape. This is all part of its history. The castle was built soon after the Norman Conquest in a classic Norman motte and bailey style. Never really a centre of battle, it is presumed it was built more for political than military impact. The highlight of the castle is its stone keep, which provides sweeping views across the town rooftops to the River Dart. It’s a good few steps but definitely worth the effort. You can also stroll round the moat (no water unfortunately) or take a picnic in the peaceful grounds of the bailey.
Adult – £6.50 | Concession – £5.90 | Children – £3.90
3. St Mary’s Church
The Parish Church of Totnes is built in red Devonian sandstone, purportedly to represent the blood of Christ. St Mary’s Church was built in the 15th century with wealth from Totnes’ booming port. So prominent a feature of the town when viewed from the castle keep, the church disappears almost completely until it emerges just off the high street. It’s a pretty parish church with the main highlight being an original stone screen with surviving paint colour. Dating to the 15th century, architectural historian Pevsner describes it as ‘One of the most perfect in England’. Outside, the tower has tall octagonal pinnacles, financed by a local tax in the 1450s.
Adult – Free | Concession – Free | Children – Free
4. Totnes Shops
If you’re tired of identical looking chain stores then Totnes is the place for you. The town is a little piece of shopping heaven with many eco-friendly businesses. Totnes’ independent spirit really shines through on its high street. You can pick up pretty much anything you need here from clothing to stationery. On Fridays and Saturdays you have the Totnes Market with its many bargains and on the third Sunday each month you have the Totnes Good Food Market with local produce. Similarly, if you’re looking for art galleries or creative gifts, Totnes is a magnate for creators.
Adult – Various | Concession – Various | Children – Various
5. Totnes Elizabethan House Museum
One of the most striking buildings in Totnes that illustrates its Tudor wealth is the Elizabethan House Museum. Located in what was formerly an Elizabethan merchant’s shop, the building is one of the best timber buildings in England, along with The Feathers in Ludlow. Just look at the timber decoration! Inside, the museum has many interesting exhibits including early coins minted in the town over the past thousand years. There’s even one from the reign of King Canute! There are also rooms styled in different periods of history. Upstairs is a room dedicated to Charles Babbage, a prolific inventor and the husband of the mathematician Ada Lovelace. Educated in the local King Edward VI Grammar School, his theoretical invention was a forerunner of the computer.
Adult – Free | Concession – Free | Children – Free
6. Totnes Fashion & Textile Museum
Who knew a small town like Totnes could be a centre of fashion? Situated on the devilishly handsome Totnes high street in a grade 1 listed building is the Totnes Fashion & Textile Museum. The building looks slightly ramshackle from the outside, however it’s a gem once you enter. Home to the Devonshire Collection of Period Costume, you can spend ages here trawling through boxes of old hats, shoes and accessories dating from the 17th to 20th century. The museum hosts regular exhibits showcasing outfits from the sumptuous to everyday. It’s a lovely place to visit and admission is by donation.
Adult – Free | Concession – Free | Children – Free
8. Totnes Town Trail
Central to what makes Totnes such a lovely place is its pleasing streetscapes. No visit is complete without a good wander. The Totnes Town Trail is a walking route established by the local council that takes you round the most historic streets of Totnes. It’s an easy walk to do and covers all important landmarks like the Guildhall, as well as easily-missed gems like the gothic house (pictured left). Immerse yourself in times gone-by as you wander the medieval streets with its historic properties.
Adult – Free | Concession – Free | Children – Free
7. The Brutus Stone
Some might deny this is an actual attraction but the Brutus Stone is a key part of Totnes’ history. Totnes is believed to have been founded with the words “Here I stand and here I rest, and this good town shall be called Totnes”. This was said by Brutus the Trojan while standing on Fore Street beside the Brutus Stone. According to legend, the Brutus Stone dates back to ancient Troy. Somewhat unfortunately, when Fore Street was widened in 1810, the stone was reduced to the level of the pavement meaning it’s easily missed. Despite its suspect origins, it’s a key landmark of the town and where royal proclamations are read. You can find the stone outside number 51 Fore Street.
Adult – Free | Concession – Free | Children – Free
9. Totnes Image Bank Photographic Archive
One of the loveliest things about Totnes is how historical it is, with it’s medieval high street and ancient landmarks. It’s as if time has stood still. If you really want to see a Totnes frozen in time then head to the Totnes Image Bank Photographic Archive. The archive is a lovingly assembled collection of historical images taken in Totnes. The earliest images of Totnes date to the 1860s and the collection follows the town’s history since. Photographs cover major events such as the the two world wars and the arrival of the railway. It’s a lovely place for a bit of nostalgia. Every town should have one!
Adult – Free | Concession – Free | Children – Free
10. Dartington Hall
Approaching Totnes, you’ll find lots of signs to Dartington Hall. Dartington Hall is part of a trust, with 1,200-acres supporting ecology, the arts and social enterprise. With a medieval hall at its heart, you can do everything here from a leisurely walk to a film screening at the Barn Cinema. One highlight in a busy programme is the Dartington International Summer School – a music school and festival that’s been running since the 50s. Outside, Dartington Gardens are a dreamy landscape with deer park trails and sculptures by the likes of Henry Moore. It’s free to explore the grounds and a real community asset.
Adult – Free | Concession – Free | Children – Free
11. Dartmouth Steam Railway & River Boat
Possibly one for an extended stay, the Dartmouth Steam Railway & River boats stops at Totnes and are one of the chief attractions of south Devon. Steam trains travel seven miles along the coast, with stunning vistas and attractions such as Agatha Christie’s house. River boats are also part of the package with the most popular excursion being the Round Robin – a steam train journey, ferry crossing, river cruise and bus ride. It’s a lovely day out which lets you enjoy the pleasures of Paignton, Brixham and Dartmouth in addition to Totnes.
Adult – Various | Concession – Various | Children – Various
12. Totnes Rare Breeds Farm
Nestled beside the South Devon Steam Railway is the Totnes Rare Breeds Farm (very Totnesian). This family-run farm is home to a wonderful array of domestic British species. From Welsh Mountain sheep and Golden Guernsey goats, the farm is dedicated to the conservation of species endangered in the English countryside. For a real cute encounter you can head to the Pets’ Corner where you can get up and close with smaller residents like newly-hatched chicks and ducklings. There’s also a garden cafe on site with a front row view of the South Devon Railway.
Adult – £8.50 | Concession – £8.00 | Children – £7.00
Best Small Towns in England by Train
Totnes features in my list of Best Small Towns in England by Train. Make sure to take a look in order to discover more towns like Totnes in Devon and elsewhere. The West Country is full of lovely places, deliciously rural with fascinating histories.