If the high bigoudène headdress has established itself in national iconography as the flagship element of the traditional Breton costume, it is in fact composed of a multitude of elements that differ according to the department and the village of origin of the wearer. Let's take a look back at the specificities of this ceremonial garment, a symbol of social and geographical recognition for centuries.
The idea of a traditional Breton costume only emerged at the beginning of the 19th century; the repeal of the sumptuary laws that had hitherto regulated dress behaviour in France and the economic development of rural populations favoured its development.
The Industrial Revolution then made textiles less expensive and allowed them to circulate more easily. From then on, every peasant had his own festive dress. Responding to an important logic of belonging, the latter is a real object of pride and representation that is worn on special occasions such as weddings, parties, fairs or markets.
In the costume, everything is symbolic, one can read the social category and the city of origin of the wearer. For men, the width of the velvet and the length of the braids are meaningful, while for women, it is the fineness of the fabrics and the lace patterns that are important.
Each territory tries to distinguish itself from its neighbour by a particular play of embroidery and colours. As the proverb "kant bro, kant guiz" ("one hundred countries, one hundred fashions") goes, there are more than sixty different costumes in Brittany.
In Quimper, for example, the men wear blue suits, in Elliant their embroideries are yellow. In the north of Finistère, women wear shawls, while the south opts for corselets. Similarly, if a headdress is worn in all the territories, it always has a particular shape and name.
Unfortunately, the first signs of a decline in the wearing of costume appeared as early as the First World War. The cultural and social changes brought about by the First World War and the standardization of France were the reason for its decline; it gradually disappeared from the daily life of the Bretons.
Even if it has changed its function, it remains an important characteristic of Breton identity and is still claimed and carried by certain Celtic circles and some enthusiasts on the occasion of cultural or religious festivals.
To learn more about Breton culture.
Bérengère for Comme des Français
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To complete your reading in the land of French fashion :
- The traditional Alsatian costume
- 5 centuries of Lyon silk
- The lace capital of the world
