Archive for January, 2011

Rolled Hem Disaster

January 13, 2011

I give up!

Even though David Coffin is singing the praises of the hemming foot – I have not really mastered the technique up to now. My first trial was a complete disaster.

I was a good girl and made several yards of trial seams on a piece of cotton. The result was acceptable so I ventured on to the real garment.

What I hadn’t considered: the blouse I wanted to hem is cut on the bias and my trial fabric was – of course – cut on the straight grain. I never would have guessed that the grainline made such a difference with the hemming foot. The cut edge was constantly sliding out of the foot, I got puckers, crumples and whatnots.

This is how it looked with the hemming foot:

No good! I cut off the hem and made a new one the traditional way: fold – iron – fold again – iron again and finally edgestitch the hem.

According to Coffin hems look “homemade” and unprofessional when not made with the hemming foot. I opt to disagree. In my opinion the above hem looks professional enough.

Conclusion: I am not giving up completely on the hemming foot, it will get a second chance on a shirt that is cut on the straight grain, but I think it is not absolutely necessary to use it to produce good looking narrow hems.

Me-Made Monday No. 1

January 10, 2011

Two-piece dress, fall 1950

My first Me-Made Monday outfit is from a pattern magazine from 1950. It’s a two-piece dress, with a pull-over top with zipper and double-button closure. Lightly gathered at the waist and with separate peplum and patch pockets. The bodice is lined, peplum and skirt are unlined.

Doesn’t it look exactly like on the fashion drawing? Ok, I’ll have to work on my waistline, but otherwise … 😉 .

I chose this model because of the adorable details: the zipper and double buttonhole closure. You can use a double button like I did here, you can pull a tiny scarve through the holes or a band with pompoms or …

Today is my first working day of the new year. With this dress nothing can go wrong.

From a leftover piece a made a quick beret (which I am not going to wear to the office, though. I am going to introduce my colleagues gradually to my new vintage style).

Pattern:

from Schwabe “Der Neue Schnitt” Fall 1950

Material:

lightweight rust coloured wool  Tweed

Cost:

approx. 25 Euro incl. notions and interfacing

Time for sewing:

approx. 20 hours incl. pattern tracing and muslin of the bodice

Fashion Friday No. 1

January 8, 2011

Uh … well … ok, it’s actually Fashion Saturday, sorry for the delay.

Because I am still on vacation and don’t have access to the super professional scanner in the office  I tried to take pictures with my camera, but the quality is not too good. Also, the pages will not lie flat and I can’t get rid of the reflection of the flash light. But I’ve decided to give you a little excerpt of the magazine Spring 1950, Schwabe “Der Neue Schnitt” all the same and replace the pictures as soon as I have good scans.

These are my 2 favorite pages from the magazine, look at the beautiful details on the skirts, the cool trinagular sleeve insets on the left blouse and the great “flap collar” on the  jacket on the second picture.

If you are into pattern making, perhaps you can use the schematics and technical drawings as an inspiration. Here are the skirts, the jacket and the blouse with the triangle-sleeves.

BTW, the two sentences below each model are all of the instructions you get. Back in those days, you were supposed to know the basics about sewing. And people probably did, because they learned at school.

And if you feel that it is complicated to trace a pattern in contemporary fashion magazines, take a look at this. Fun, huh?


Brave little sewing machine

January 6, 2011

Hooray, my little Singer Featherweight is purring again.  My beloved Prince Charming fixed it over the holidays and I’ve been sewing with it for an entire week now and it’s been pure fun.

The Featherweight is a straightstitch machine and has only a round hole in the throatplate, not a large slit as the combination machines.

Featherweight:

Toyota

The fabric cannot be pulled down into the throatplate and is transported better by the feed dogs.

Therefore the Featherweight can make do with a much smaller presser foot.  The standard presser foot is tiny and narrow compared to the standard foot of my modern combination machines, you can see the needle position very precisely and it also wonderful for edgestitching.

In direct comparison you can see how much smaller the Featherweight presser foot is and the free view to the needle

On top of that it’s just plain fun to sew on a machine which is older than myself and in such good condition. I seriously doubt that any of our modern plastic encased high-tech sewing machines will be in such good shape in 60 or 70 years.

Blog News 2011

January 4, 2011

Happy NewYear to everybody! Keep on Sewing!

For most people, a new year starts with some resolutions and the same goes for me: I will introduce 2 new categories to my blog:

Me-Made-Monday

Inspired by fellow bloggers like  Andrea of  “The New Vintage Wardrobe” who just presented her “DYI-December” and Mena of “The Sew Weekly” who made a new dress every week in2010 I mix the 2 concepts: Every Monday I am going to present a new selfmade garment for my growing vintage wardrobe. Monday is the perfect day as I am usually sewing on the weekend and I also couldn’t resist the alliteration.

Fashion Friday

Fridays you will be treated to selected scans from my vintage German pattern magazines from the 1930ies to 1950ies, with a few excursions in later periods from time to time. I had a wonderful time browsing in them over Christmas. There are so many beautiful details and inspiration in these magazines that I have decided to share them with you and scan all my magazines in the course of 2011, also for conservation purposes, because they don’t get better by frequent handling, so I’ll touch them one last time for the scans.

4 times per year I get special fashion editons of the Spanish “Hola” magazine with the latesyt fashion (Haute Couture and RTW) and selected pictures will feature in “Friday Fasion Specails”.

So be sure to check in on Fridays for some fashion goodies.