I give up!
Even though David Coffin is singing the praises of the hemming foot – I have not really mastered the technique up to now. My first trial was a complete disaster.
I was a good girl and made several yards of trial seams on a piece of cotton. The result was acceptable so I ventured on to the real garment.
What I hadn’t considered: the blouse I wanted to hem is cut on the bias and my trial fabric was – of course – cut on the straight grain. I never would have guessed that the grainline made such a difference with the hemming foot. The cut edge was constantly sliding out of the foot, I got puckers, crumples and whatnots.
This is how it looked with the hemming foot:
No good! I cut off the hem and made a new one the traditional way: fold – iron – fold again – iron again and finally edgestitch the hem.
According to Coffin hems look “homemade” and unprofessional when not made with the hemming foot. I opt to disagree. In my opinion the above hem looks professional enough.
Conclusion: I am not giving up completely on the hemming foot, it will get a second chance on a shirt that is cut on the straight grain, but I think it is not absolutely necessary to use it to produce good looking narrow hems.