The Sámi gapta (gákti/kolt/kofte) vary in appearance depending on which area tradition and family you belong to. They can also vary based on age, if you’ve been confirmed (in church), marital status, etc.
Gapta can be used as casual everyday clothes and as party outfits. Today it’s common to have different gapta for different occasions that are more personally adapted in fabric choice and cut. I personally have a gapta for every occasion and the one I use the most is made of denim and can be machine washed at 60°C.
The appearance of gaptas has changed throughout time, affected by all kinds of factors. Taste, fashion, environment and access to materials are a few examples of what makes the gapta. For example, right now I feel like it’s popular to make the female south Sámi gapta tight around the upper body and arms. Blue wool fabric (kläde) is classic, but absolutely not the obvious choice these days. The gapta is something that portrays our Sámi identity, our “space” in the Sámi history while also connecting us with our ancestors.
The conservation of traditions is crucial for the culture’s survival. It’s also a condition and a source for growth and for making the culture ours and not something that only belonged to our ancestors. It can be hard to determine what is within the realm of acceptable regarding how you sew your gapta and it can be a fine line to balance on. There’s a lot of differing opinions.
In the end it’s about a feeling about the whole. Not just knowledge of gapta traditions, but also understanding of Sámi norms, history and principles. All these things play a part, not because they can’t be broken, but because they form a necessary foundation to stand on.
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This is a picture of Liisa-Ravna Finborg in one of her beautiful gaptas. She’s a skilled craftsperson and researcher, but also a big source of inspiration and a good friend.
Photo: Eirin Torgersen
Check out @samekofter for examples of thousands of different gaptas!
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Ina Omma
