BoraxKid

You can order a 130 mm Aksium rear wheel from Mavic that will fit after changing the axle spacers (-2 mm per side) or spreading the rear dropouts on the bike frame. The Aksium rear wheel accepts an 8/9/10 speed HyperGlide cassette and retails for about $150 USD. Good luck on the lead times for shipping...

zacster

This is a hybrid bike, not a road bike, and likely has thumb or twist shifters, and thumb shifters are a lot cheaper than brifters. Even 10sp is cheap. Put a 130 wheel on with however many gears you want and use MTB parts and you can do this relatively cheap, but you'll still likely have to change just about everything. One thing leads to another which leads to another... Is it worth it? IDK.

Stormy Archer

What's the point in stretching to 135?

Just prebuit "hybrid" specific 700c wheels?

Stormy Archer

Worth mentioning that you can also use 8 speed drivetrain stuff on a 7 speed cassette

fietsbob

IGH how about a 3 speed?

feejer

Again thanks everyone for the replies, it’s helped get this Project into focus. Once my work stand gets here I’ll take some “before” pics and post the progress. It’s going to be fun, even knowing I’m going to have to compromise on some parts due to the scarcity right now, if I’m going to get it rideable before the season is up. Thanks for the thoughts!

squirtdad

in my case early learning, didn't know better at the time ....got some wheels built on mountain bike hubs. all said though they are still running strong

feejer

Ok I just got the repair stand up and finally got the bike measured accurately. It is indeed a 126mm spaced rear. So, here's what I'm thinking. I have a rear Deore hub, 135mm. I can remove the spacer to bring it to 130mm, and get a 7 speed freehub to bring it down to 126mm, with a correct length axle. Does this sound correct? Just eyeballing it with the 8 speed freehub on there, the rear wheel would be pretty severely dished, I'd rather stay 7 speed and have a slightly stronger wheel. If I'm off base with this let me know!

Bill Kapaun

That sounds like a plan.
The problem with spreading wider is that the DO's become less parallel to each other.
When you clamp the QR, they try to "flatten" and it puts a slight bend in the axle. That tends to eat DS cones.
(one who tried 132mm's worth in a 126mm spacing)

BoraxKid

Changing the freehub body won't change the OLD (over-locknut-distance). When you remove the spacers, you will need to reset the OLD to 126mm, regardless of what freehub body is going to be used.

Bill Kapaun

A 7 speed body is definitely shorter than a >7 speed body. I've always allowed about 3.5mm. At least that's about the distance the BEARING RACE moves in.

Reminder to OP-
Since the race is part of the body, use the cones, seals etc. that were used with that body.
You have an "illegitimate" (self censor) set up, but you know everything works together as it should. You just have to keep track of what the original hub it came on was.

BoraxKid

that's true at the cassette interface, but at the axle, the bearing cup takes up the same amount of room. So if you only remove enough spacers to go from 135mm to 130mm, you're going to have to spread the 126mm frame to make it work. I suppose their could be some nominal changes in the bearing cup thickness, but probably not 4 mm.

Bill Kapaun

Spoken by someone that obviously hasn't done it before.
I have. Just the opposite direction.

BoraxKid

I have done it before. My old road bike was a 7-speed originally. When I changed the freehub body to 8/9/10 speed, it did not affect the axle spacing in a noticeable way. Maybe I got lucky on the freehub body I chose, but it worked for me.

Bill Kapaun

Make sure the FH body(s) that you are going to swap are from the same "era". Newer hubs have a different spline pattern than old.

feejer

I've got a 7 speed HG freehub coming, and as best as I can research it should be a correct match for the new Deore 135 hub. Thanks for the help, I need to make sure this is workable, as I'm also learning I'll need to get the hub laced up to do the axle work properly. So as I'm reading this, it should work at 126mm with the 7 speed freehub and reduced washers, correct?

Assuming this does work, I'll still need to figure out the dishing. The Deore hub flanges are 1/8" wider than the original wheel, I'll have to see how that plays into things. Who would've though a bicycle wheel would be so technical?

Bill Kapaun

Without specific model #'s, I don't have a clue.
I hope you aren't mixing brands.
7 speed is "old" era. A newer >7 speed will likely have a different spline pattern. That's where it mates to the hub, having nothing to do with cogs.

Having the hub "unmounted makes it easier to measure OLD.
My pic has a trapezoid effect, trying to hold the camera in one hand etc., but you can get the idea of how to measure the things to know to plug into your spoke calculator.
Anything that has a right triangle, such as my 50 year old drafting triangle from apprentice school. A cheap combination sq. etc. You can improvise & eyeball.

Also attached are old & new style splines in the pdf's. Look at the splines at the hub to see the diff.

feejer

All Shimano. The hub is FH-T610 Deore 8-10 speed 135mm. The incoming 7 speed free hub is the RM30-7.

Question though, when you say you plan 3.5mm difference between the 7 and 8 speed free hubs, does that include the .5mm DS spacer shown in the diagrams?

icemilkcoffee 

OK I am very confused. You want to stay with 126mm rear spacing, right?
And you want to stay with 7 speed, right?

So why don't you just buy a 7 speed 126mm rear hub (RSX-A410, 600-6400, 105-1055, or Exage)? Why are you doing all this busy work with the 135mm Deore hub?

feejer

Mainly to get this bike to as current standards as is possible, with preferably new components. Finding all the parts I’m going to need right now is darn near impossible it seems, and I’m on a serious time crunch to get this rideable before the weather turns in a couple months. I was able to get the Deore hub here quickly, and I think in the end it will work. It’s all a new learning experience for me right now, and a number of options like you posted I just haven’t come across yet.

alcjphil

If getting this bike as close as possible to current standards is the goal, resetting the rear dropouts to 130mm is a no brainer. Nothing current is based on 126mm dropout spacing unless you are talking about bargain basement department store quality components. The easiest and best way forward is to cold set the frame to 130mm spacing. Once that is done, you have at least 10 times as many options.

feejer

I can't argue with that, and agree with you. However the other half really doesn't want to do that, so there we are. Happy wife...

Bill Kapaun

UR screwed on using that hub. See the pdf and look at the area I mention. Where the FH engages the hub to transmit power.
I've already uploaded 1 of them.
(seems I might be having trouble loading the T-610 pdf)
Try this link-
https://si.shimano.com/#/en/EV/FH-T610

When I say use the DS parts, I mean use the DS parts.
You could probably remove a TINY bit of spacing on the DS, but usually there's not too much wiggle room before you have other problems that appear later. Like it won't shift back from the smallest cog because there isn't enough clearance from the chain stay. This might allow functioning on 13-14T smallest cogs, but not anything smaller. There's lots of potential bad paths.
EYEBALL things well first.
You need to do your research before you buy.
BTW, I built 3 different wheels about 8 years ago when I was layed up with a freshly installed steel rod in my leg.
I figured if it's a Shimano, it's "good enough".
RM-30's suck! Now 2 were on stretching the frame more than I should have conversions, but the 3rd was on my 135 factory spaced Hybrid.
The hybrid shows DS cone pitting after about 1200 miles, with fresh grease & new balls at least once during that period. All in nice weather conditions.
I replaced with The same T-610 I think. Bike was stolen, so not even short term results.

alcjphil

Does the "other half" understand the difficulties involved with staying with an obsolete frame spacing standard?

zacster

I don't understand why you would even try to put a 135 spaced hub on a 126 frame. If you are going to mess around with this at least start with a 130 hub. And there is a reason they went with 130 spacing and that is there is not enough room with 126 to get 8/9/10 speeds without sacrificing strength somewhere else. And as Alcjphil says, 126 is not the current standard if you are looking to get it to current standards. Don't do it, you will find that it doesn't work smoothly, that there will always be one gear or another that won't shift or rubs. It just seems crazy you are going to build a wheel that doesn't meet the specs and go through all of that trouble to make it work when you could build something from scratch that does.

I know the itch to be creative with making things work, but at some point I usually throw in the towel and buy the right part. And there's the key, if you are going to buy, buy the right part from the beginning.