Shimano 6402 Freehub
10-06-23, 05:30 PM
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Shimano 6402 Freehub
I have an old Shimano 600 tri-color wheelset that I really like - with a 6402 rear hub.
I want to get a spare freehub body for just in case. I have it set up as a 10 speed. Does anyone have an opinion as to whether the freehub in the attached picture will fit?
I want to get a spare freehub body for just in case. I have it set up as a 10 speed. Does anyone have an opinion as to whether the freehub in the attached picture will fit?
10-06-23, 06:40 PM
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Not the one you want.
You need one that has a socket bottom.
Beware of that seller BTW, had an issue with them earlier this year, sellling items they do not have in their possesion.
You need one that has a socket bottom.
Beware of that seller BTW, had an issue with them earlier this year, sellling items they do not have in their possesion.
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10-06-23, 07:05 PM
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10-06-23, 07:06 PM
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This hub has the freehub you need, and other nice parts for cheap:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/38615260010...Bk9SR-K11vrgYg
https://www.ebay.com/itm/38615260010...Bk9SR-K11vrgYg
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10-06-23, 07:18 PM
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That style won't work with the FH-6402. The interface to the hub shell is different.
See the attached.
These 2 options are your best replacements. The later version of the freehub body for the 1056 was a 'compact' design that had the shortened spline to allow use of an 11 tooth small sprocket.
Other freehub bodies use the same attachment interface, but may sit slightly further away from the right flange. This may also mean that bearings and cones/spacers/locknut could be affected. So OLD may change slightly and dish may also change.
See the attached.
These 2 options are your best replacements. The later version of the freehub body for the 1056 was a 'compact' design that had the shortened spline to allow use of an 11 tooth small sprocket.
Other freehub bodies use the same attachment interface, but may sit slightly further away from the right flange. This may also mean that bearings and cones/spacers/locknut could be affected. So OLD may change slightly and dish may also change.
10-06-23, 07:25 PM
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Others posted while I was typing.
The ebay listing above shows the 8 speed 'compact' freehub body. Listing says FH-1055 but could a 1056 or a 1055 with a replacement body.
The ebay listing above shows the 8 speed 'compact' freehub body. Listing says FH-1055 but could a 1056 or a 1055 with a replacement body.
10-06-23, 08:12 PM
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At the local bicycle parts recyclery I have bought complete 6402 hubs with freehubs for $5. I there there is a general belief that it is near impossible to remove the freehub without rim and spokes to counter the allen key, which is why they charge more for loose freehubs.
The secret is to use pine blocks in a bench vice to clamp the freehub body itself. The allen wrench is then acting against the pawls, which works just as well. While clunkier, doing it with the axle out by cassette installed and a chain whip should also work.
The secret is to use pine blocks in a bench vice to clamp the freehub body itself. The allen wrench is then acting against the pawls, which works just as well. While clunkier, doing it with the axle out by cassette installed and a chain whip should also work.
10-06-23, 08:59 PM
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10-06-23, 09:03 PM
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10-12-23, 08:54 PM
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I haven't posted for a while, but I thought I would chime in. Except for the external spline in the pic in the first post, and the 74xx, Shimano internal splines were the same for older 8-10 speed freehub bodies.
There are basic differences, the first is the flange thickness. Shimano made a shallow and deep flange and the depth of the recess on the aluminum freehub. The lower right is a freehun body for an FH- 6402
The second difference is the right cone and seal for the freehub body.
The issue that you might have is that your existing 6402 right cone and seal may not work on a 1056 "C". Generally the seal is a smaller diameter on a "C" freehub body. A 1056 "C" body is kind of an odd duck for the more common UG/HG 1056. On the expanded view above the cone and seals are not the same. I have a .pdf listing of Shimano Freehub Interchangeability and the 1056-C is not listed, but worse than that there is no listing for the Y31D98060 body, If you could identify a freehub that used the same you might be able to hunt down the cone and seal.
If you have not purchased that freehub body, don't buy it. A few years ago I went into the rabbit hole on 90's freehub swaps and got quite an education. I don't know all the swaps but if it were me I'd get a complete FH-5700 hub. You want a complete hub so you get the cone, seal and any spacers. I've done an interchange with a 1055, 6402, 5700 freehub bodies on different hubs.
John
There are basic differences, the first is the flange thickness. Shimano made a shallow and deep flange and the depth of the recess on the aluminum freehub. The lower right is a freehun body for an FH- 6402
The second difference is the right cone and seal for the freehub body.
The issue that you might have is that your existing 6402 right cone and seal may not work on a 1056 "C". Generally the seal is a smaller diameter on a "C" freehub body. A 1056 "C" body is kind of an odd duck for the more common UG/HG 1056. On the expanded view above the cone and seals are not the same. I have a .pdf listing of Shimano Freehub Interchangeability and the 1056-C is not listed, but worse than that there is no listing for the Y31D98060 body, If you could identify a freehub that used the same you might be able to hunt down the cone and seal.
If you have not purchased that freehub body, don't buy it. A few years ago I went into the rabbit hole on 90's freehub swaps and got quite an education. I don't know all the swaps but if it were me I'd get a complete FH-5700 hub. You want a complete hub so you get the cone, seal and any spacers. I've done an interchange with a 1055, 6402, 5700 freehub bodies on different hubs.
John
Last edited by 70sSanO; 10-12-23 at 08:58 PM.
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10-12-23, 10:12 PM
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At the local bicycle parts recyclery I have bought complete 6402 hubs with freehubs for $5. I there there is a general belief that it is near impossible to remove the freehub without rim and spokes to counter the allen key, which is why they charge more for loose freehubs.
The secret is to use pine blocks in a bench vice to clamp the freehub body itself. The allen wrench is then acting against the pawls, which works just as well. While clunkier, doing it with the axle out by cassette installed and a chain whip should also work.
The secret is to use pine blocks in a bench vice to clamp the freehub body itself. The allen wrench is then acting against the pawls, which works just as well. While clunkier, doing it with the axle out by cassette installed and a chain whip should also work.
I didn't believe it till I actually tried it, so it would fail. But it worked.
If the pawls are good, you just need to put a slot in a piece of wood for the freehub to slide into, add a cog and attach it to the piece of wood, fill the body up, then remove the freehub body.
The screws through the cog keeps the freehub body from tuning and the pawls keep the freehub from rotating when you turn the allen screw.
Best thing is no damage to the freehub surface. Wish I knew about this years ago.
John
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10-13-23, 07:53 AM
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10-13-23, 11:30 AM
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The issue that you might have is that your existing 6402 right cone and seal may not work on a 1056 "C". Generally the seal is a smaller diameter on a "C" freehub body. A 1056 "C" body is kind of an odd duck for the more common UG/HG 1056. On the expanded view above the cone and seals are not the same. I have a .pdf listing of Shimano Freehub Interchangeability and the 1056-C is not listed, but worse than that there is no listing for the Y31D98060 body, If you could identify a freehub that used the same you might be able to hunt down the cone and seal.
Recently I also came across a 7 speed freehub body with a smaller right side hole. Could it be compatible with the 5500 and newer generation hubs?
10-13-23, 12:29 PM
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I haven't posted for a while, but I thought I would chime in. Except for the external spline in the pic in the first post, and the 74xx, Shimano internal splines were the same for older 8-10 speed freehub bodies.
There are basic differences, the first is the flange thickness. Shimano made a shallow and deep flange and the depth of the recess on the aluminum freehub. The lower right is a freehun body for an FH- 6402
The second difference is the right cone and seal for the freehub body.
The issue that you might have is that your existing 6402 right cone and seal may not work on a 1056 "C". Generally the seal is a smaller diameter on a "C" freehub body. A 1056 "C" body is kind of an odd duck for the more common UG/HG 1056. On the expanded view above the cone and seals are not the same. I have a .pdf listing of Shimano Freehub Interchangeability and the 1056-C is not listed, but worse than that there is no listing for the Y31D98060 body, If you could identify a freehub that used the same you might be able to hunt down the cone and seal.
If you have not purchased that freehub body, don't buy it. A few years ago I went into the rabbit hole on 90's freehub swaps and got quite an education. I don't know all the swaps but if it were me I'd get a complete FH-5700 hub. You want a complete hub so you get the cone, seal and any spacers. I've done an interchange with a 1055, 6402, 5700 freehub bodies on different hubs.
John
There are basic differences, the first is the flange thickness. Shimano made a shallow and deep flange and the depth of the recess on the aluminum freehub. The lower right is a freehun body for an FH- 6402
The second difference is the right cone and seal for the freehub body.
The issue that you might have is that your existing 6402 right cone and seal may not work on a 1056 "C". Generally the seal is a smaller diameter on a "C" freehub body. A 1056 "C" body is kind of an odd duck for the more common UG/HG 1056. On the expanded view above the cone and seals are not the same. I have a .pdf listing of Shimano Freehub Interchangeability and the 1056-C is not listed, but worse than that there is no listing for the Y31D98060 body, If you could identify a freehub that used the same you might be able to hunt down the cone and seal.
If you have not purchased that freehub body, don't buy it. A few years ago I went into the rabbit hole on 90's freehub swaps and got quite an education. I don't know all the swaps but if it were me I'd get a complete FH-5700 hub. You want a complete hub so you get the cone, seal and any spacers. I've done an interchange with a 1055, 6402, 5700 freehub bodies on different hubs.
John
See the example below. This was the 9 speed replacement for the 6402. The right side has the newer seal ring, and the left side has the older ring, (the same type as used in the 6402). This style was used for a few model from that time period. Later models, like the FH-5700 you mentioned had the seal rings integrated with the cone.
10-13-23, 03:33 PM
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Are you sure? The diagram posted by KCT1986 shows that item 7 , part number 377 1000, is common between the 6402 and 1056. So for sure the right side seal diameter is the same between these two.
Recently I also came across a 7 speed freehub body with a smaller right side hole. Could it be compatible with the 5500 and newer generation hubs?
Recently I also came across a 7 speed freehub body with a smaller right side hole. Could it be compatible with the 5500 and newer generation hubs?
Another item to note is that some of the newer hub shells (4400, 5500, 5600, 6500, 6600, etc) uses a deeper flanged hub body, (think DA7700 and the questions about replacing with a steel body).
10-13-23, 05:27 PM
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Thanks for all of the useful information.
It's interesting that you guys seem to have a collection of freehub bodies sitting around to photograph. After 5 years of cycling I am starting to get concerned about the buckets of spare parts I seem to be collecting but I guess I am not alone in that regard.
It's interesting that you guys seem to have a collection of freehub bodies sitting around to photograph. After 5 years of cycling I am starting to get concerned about the buckets of spare parts I seem to be collecting but I guess I am not alone in that regard.
10-13-23, 05:28 PM
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icemilkcoffee , KCT1986 , thanks, you guys are right about the seals they are the same for both, so a 6402 seal will work. Had to pull out a magnifying glass.
The right side cones seem to be different, but it may just be an extra spacer making the width difference. I don’t know if there are cone grind differences.
The 1055, 1056 and 1056C use 369 0400 cone.
The 6401 and 6402 use the same 377 9806. I knew the 6401/2 used the same because I got a axle assembly from Loose Screws for backup cones.
John
The right side cones seem to be different, but it may just be an extra spacer making the width difference. I don’t know if there are cone grind differences.
The 1055, 1056 and 1056C use 369 0400 cone.
The 6401 and 6402 use the same 377 9806. I knew the 6401/2 used the same because I got a axle assembly from Loose Screws for backup cones.
John
Last edited by 70sSanO; 10-13-23 at 05:55 PM.
10-13-23, 05:42 PM
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Thanks for all of the useful information.
It's interesting that you guys seem to have a collection of freehub bodies sitting around to photograph. After 5 years of cycling I am starting to get concerned about the buckets of spare parts I seem to be collecting but I guess I am not alone in that regard.
It's interesting that you guys seem to have a collection of freehub bodies sitting around to photograph. After 5 years of cycling I am starting to get concerned about the buckets of spare parts I seem to be collecting but I guess I am not alone in that regard.
From there I just bought different freehubs that popped up, especially new and cheap, that would work as replacements and built a stash. At times I bought some cones from Wheels mfg.
Doing this 20+ years after the fact using scraps is not a preferred method, but it was probably better than 30+ years.
John
