The gamine

Impish but innocent, boyish but feminine, the true gamine is more than just a haircut. As an exhibition devoted to Audrey Hepburn opens in London, Matthew Sweet combs through the history of her signature look

By Matthew Sweet

SAINTLY JEAN SEBERG AS ST JOAN, 1957
They burnt Joan of Arc (1412-31) for heresy, but her style was also on the charge sheet: the male attire, the close-cut hair. The look still turned heads when Otto Preminger filmed Jean Seberg on her way to the pyre, a shorn, wide-eyed boy-woman. Seberg killed herself in 1979 – though her demons were the FBI, determined to punish political radicalism. Here she stands, the sweetest and brightest of Joans, a decade before anyone knew that J. Edgar Hoover was carrying a torch for her.

MILITANT A VIVANDIERE, 1850
1848: the Year of Revolution and the year of the gamin et gamine: impish Parisian street kids who became the footsoldiers of the June Days, gunning for liberty, like the child waving a pair of flintlocks in the painting by Delacroix. The coming of Napoleon III and the Second Empire should have sent them skittering home – but the figure survived, as the vivandière, the female cook who wore masculine uniform to boil coffee and mutton in the Crimea – and the “little gamin” whom Manet painted, wearing a crimson cap, gorging on cherries, and smiling as if the war had gone the other way.

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