JAMES SUCKLING - 97 POINTS - "Enormous power and concentration, but also an extremely vivid acidity make this riesling GG really stand out from the 2021 crowd. Amazing apricot and King Alphonso mango aromas. Very long, stony and salty finish that pulls your hand inexorably back to the glass. Drink or hold."
JOHN GILMAN - VIEW FROM THE CELLAR - 94+ POINTS This is the first time I can recall this wine’s label bearing the term Oberer Hubacker to signify that it comes from the top of the slope. The wine is simply stunning in 2021, tipping the scales at 12.5 percent octane and delivering a refined and very complex bouquet of pink grapefruit, tart orange, a beautiful base of chalky minerality, lemongrass, wild yeasts, lemon blossoms and just a whisper of menthol in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and laser-like in its precision, with a beautiful core of fruit, even better mineral drive, great balance and grip and a long, complex and hauntingly refined finish. The cooler fruit tones of the vintage give this wine a nervosité that is stunning. 2031-2100.
ANTONIO GALLONI VINOUS 93 POINTS - "Pear and apple notes on both the nose and palate are laced with marjoram and sage and are strongly marked by their pits, making for a very forceful, pungent and piquant presentation with a smoky aura. Along with those aforementioned aromas and flavors, a vivid sense of stoniness prevails, which, taken together with an almost implosive impression of density-without-weight, leads one to think of this wine as tightly-coiled and embryonic. The gripping, nearly implacable finish reinforces that impression with its combination of biting intensity and almost severe stoniness. The source, just as in previous vintages, is the family’s old vines in the Hubacker Einzellage. But in 2021, Keller registered the cadastral designation “Oberer Hubacker” that was used on estate labels before being stricken from the official vineyard register in 1971, and which refers to a ten acre family monopole (as is now also indicated on the label)."
JOHN GILMAN - VIEW FROM THE CELLAR - 94+ POINTS This is the first time I can recall this wine’s label bearing the term Oberer Hubacker to signify that it comes from the top of the slope. The wine is simply stunning in 2021, tipping the scales at 12.5 percent octane and delivering a refined and very complex bouquet of pink grapefruit, tart orange, a beautiful base of chalky minerality, lemongrass, wild yeasts, lemon blossoms and just a whisper of menthol in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and laser-like in its precision, with a beautiful core of fruit, even better mineral drive, great balance and grip and a long, complex and hauntingly refined finish. The cooler fruit tones of the vintage give this wine a nervosité that is stunning. 2031-2100.
ANTONIO GALLONI VINOUS 93 POINTS - "Pear and apple notes on both the nose and palate are laced with marjoram and sage and are strongly marked by their pits, making for a very forceful, pungent and piquant presentation with a smoky aura. Along with those aforementioned aromas and flavors, a vivid sense of stoniness prevails, which, taken together with an almost implosive impression of density-without-weight, leads one to think of this wine as tightly-coiled and embryonic. The gripping, nearly implacable finish reinforces that impression with its combination of biting intensity and almost severe stoniness. The source, just as in previous vintages, is the family’s old vines in the Hubacker Einzellage. But in 2021, Keller registered the cadastral designation “Oberer Hubacker” that was used on estate labels before being stricken from the official vineyard register in 1971, and which refers to a ten acre family monopole (as is now also indicated on the label)."
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