C. Calvin Jones - Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair-Park Tool Company (2013) PDF

BIG BLUE BOOK
OF BICYCLE REPAIR
A Do-It Yourself Bicycle Repair Guide from Park Tool
By C. Calvin Jones
3RD EDITION
BIG BLUE BOOK OF BICYCLE REPAIR — 3RD EDITION
A Do-it-Yourself Bicycle Repair Guide From Park Tool
Park Tool Company
Copyright © 2013 Park Tool Company
® PARK TOOL and the color BLUE are registered trademarks of Park Tool Co. All other referenced trademarks and trademark
registrations are the property of their respective owners.
The Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair is published by Park Tool Company. For more information or to contact us:
Park Tool Company

5115 Hadley Ave N
St. Paul, MN 55128
T: (651) 777-6868
F: (651) 777-5559
http://www.parktool.com
To report errors, please send a note to info@partktool.com
For the latest an all our products and services, please go to http://www.parktool.com
Written by: C. Calvin Jones

Editor: Bill Gibson
Graphic Designer: Joel King
Special thanks to the manufacturers of components and bicycles featured within this publication.
NOTICE OF RIGHTS
No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form, by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
recording, or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher. For information on getting permissions for reprints
and excerpts, contact info@parktool.com.
NOTICE OF LIABILITY
The information in this book is distributed on an “As Is” basis, without warranty. While every precautions has been taken in
the preparation of the book, neither the author nor Park Tool shall have any liability to any person or entity with respect to
any loss or damage caused or alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instruction contained in this book and products
described in it.
ISBN 978-0-9765530-4-5
Printed and bound in the United States of America

TABLE OF CONTENTS OPENING
Table of contents
Foreword.....................................................................................................................................................................xi
Introduction...............................................................................................................................................................xii
CHAPTER 1 — BASIC MECHANICAL SKILLS

Threaded Fastener Tension & Torque................................................................................................................2
Lubrication, ThreadLockers, & Cleaners............................................................................................................4
Bearing Systems....................................................................................................................................................5
Diagnosing & Solving Mechanical Problems.....................................................................................................6
Tools & Tool Selection..........................................................................................................................................6
Repair Stands........................................................................................................................................................6
Home Shop Setup..................................................................................................................................................7
Maintenance Schedule....................................................................................................................................8
CHAPTER 2 — TIRES & TUBES

Wheel Removal....................................................................................................................................................12
Removal of Tire & Tube from Rim.....................................................................................................................14
Inner Tube Inspection.........................................................................................................................................15
Cut at Valve Base...........................................................................................................................................15
Leaky Valve Core...........................................................................................................................................15
Large Shredded Hole.....................................................................................................................................15
Hole on the Rim Strip Side of Tube.............................................................................................................15
Long Cut or Rip..............................................................................................................................................16
Single Puncture or Small Hole......................................................................................................................16
Double Slits.....................................................................................................................................................16
Tire Inspection.....................................................................................................................................................16
Rim Strip...............................................................................................................................................................17
Inner Tube Repair................................................................................................................................................17
Pre-Glued Patch Repair.................................................................................................................................17
Inner Tube Repair with Self-Vulcanizing Patches.....................................................................................17
Inner Tube Sealants.............................................................................................................................................18
Tire Liners.............................................................................................................................................................18
Temporary Tire Repair with Tire Boot..............................................................................................................19
Inner Tube Valves................................................................................................................................................19
Tire & Tube Sizing...............................................................................................................................................20
Installation of Tire & Tube on Wheel.................................................................................................................21
Wheel Installation...............................................................................................................................................22
Front Wheels with Disc Brakes....................................................................................................................25
Solid Axle Types............................................................................................................................................25
Thru-Axle Systems........................................................................................................................................25
Tubeless Systems...............................................................................................................................................26
Tubeless Conversion Systems.....................................................................................................................27
Tubular Tires........................................................................................................................................................28
CHAPTER 3 — REAR SPROCKETS

Cassette Sprocket Removal & Installation......................................................................................................34
Freewheel Sprocket Removal & Installation...................................................................................................36
Single-Speed Removal.......................................................................................................................................38
Sprocket Inspection & Cleaning........................................................................................................................38
Fixed Gear Sprockets.........................................................................................................................................39
CHAPTER 4 — HUBS
Hub Bearing Service: Adjustable Cup-and-Cone Type..................................................................................42
Disassembly...................................................................................................................................................43
Parts Inspection............................................................................................................................................44
Assembly.......................................................................................................................................................44
Hub Adjustment............................................................................................................................................45
Oversized Axle Service: Campagnolo® and Shimano®.............................................................................46
Hub Adjustment: Solid Axle Cup-and-cone..............................................................................................46
www.parktool.com v
OPENING TABLE OF CONTENTS
Freehub Removal & Installation........................................................................................................................47

Cartridge Bearing Hubs.....................................................................................................................................47
Mavic® Hub (Level 1 Type)...........................................................................................................................48
CHAPTER 5 — WHEEL TRUING

Wheel Truing Overview.....................................................................................................................................54
Lateral True....................................................................................................................................................55
Radial True.....................................................................................................................................................55
Rim Centering (Dish)....................................................................................................................................55
Tension...........................................................................................................................................................56
Truing Procedures..............................................................................................................................................56
Lateral Truing..........................................................................................................................................57
Radial Truing............................................................................................................................................58
Wheel Centering (Dishing)....................................................................................................................58
Spoke Tension.........................................................................................................................................60
Broken & Damaged Spoke Replacement..........................................................................................................61
Wheel Wear, Damage, & Repair........................................................................................................................62
CHAPTER 6 — PEDALS
Pedal Removal....................................................................................................................................................66
Pedal Installation................................................................................................................................................66
Damage to Crank Pedal Threads......................................................................................................................67
Pedal Bearing Service........................................................................................................................................67
CHAPTER 7 — CRANKSETS
Crank Types.........................................................................................................................................................70
Crank Removal & Installation.............................................................................................................................71
Self-Extracting Crank Systems....................................................................................................................71
Three-Piece Cranks: Octalink®, ISIS Drive, Square Spindle, Power Spline™, and Power Drive™.........72
Two-Piece Compression Slotted Cranks: Shimano® and FSA®...............................................................73
Two-Piece Cranks Using Wave Washer: FSA® MegaExo® and SRAM® GXP® PF...................................74
Two-Piece Self-Extracting Cranks: Truvativ®, SRAM® GXP®...................................................................74
Two-Piece Pre-Load Adjuster Nut Cranks: Truvativ®, SRAM® BB30 I-A, and FSA® Afterburner™.....75
Campagnolo® and Fulcrum® Ultra-Torque® Cranks..................................................................................75
Campagnolo® Power Torque™ Cranks........................................................................................................76
Specialized® S-Works® Cranks.....................................................................................................................77
Bottom Bracket System Types.........................................................................................................................78
Threaded Standards.....................................................................................................................................78
Non-Threaded Standards.............................................................................................................................78
BB86 and BB92........................................................................................................................................78
BB90 and BB95........................................................................................................................................78
BB30..........................................................................................................................................................79
PF30..........................................................................................................................................................79
386EVO.....................................................................................................................................................79
BBright®....................................................................................................................................................79
Bottom Bracket Bearing Service for Non-Threaded Shells...........................................................................79
BB30 Bearings...............................................................................................................................................80
PF30 and BBright® Bearings.........................................................................................................................81
BB30 and PF30 Adaptors for non-BB30 Cranks.......................................................................................81
BB86, BB90, BB92, BB95 Bearings (Shimano® PF and GXP® PF)...........................................................82
Campagnolo® Ultra-Torque® and Fulcrum® Bearings...............................................................................83
Campagnolo® Power Torque™ Bearings....................................................................................................84
Campagnolo® BB30 Bearing Adaptors......................................................................................................84
Bottom Bracket Bearing Service for Threaded Shells...................................................................................85
Threaded Bottom Bracket with Two-Piece Cranks..................................................................................87
Threaded Cartridge Bottom Brackets: ISIS Drive, Octalink®, and Square Spindle..............................87
vi
Threaded Adjustable Bottom Bracket Bearings.......................................................................................89

Bottom Bracket Removal.......................................................................................................................89
Bottom Bracket Installation..................................................................................................................90
Bottom Bracket Adjustment.................................................................................................................90
Chainrings.............................................................................................................................................................91
Chainring Replacement................................................................................................................................92
Chainring Wear and Damage......................................................................................................................92
CHAPTER 8 — CHAINS
Chain Sizing for Derailleur Bikes......................................................................................................................96
Chain Sizing with Chain Retention System...............................................................................................98
Chain Removal...............................................................................................................................................98
New Chain Installation on Derailleur Bikes.....................................................................................................99
Shimano® and FSA® Chains with Connecting Rivet..................................................................................99
Campagnolo® 10-Speed Chain...................................................................................................................100
Campagnolo® 11-Speed Chain.....................................................................................................................101
Setting or Peening of 11-Speed Coupling Rivet.................................................................................101
Chains with Master Link..............................................................................................................................102
Chain with Reusable Rivets........................................................................................................................102
Tight Link Repair.........................................................................................................................................103
Chain Sizing and Tension Adjustment: Two-Sprocket Bicycles.................................................................104
Chain Tension: Two-Sprocket Bikes.........................................................................................................104
Chain Tension: Two-Sprocket Bikes with Chain Tension Idler Device.................................................105
Chain Tension: Eccentric Bottom Brackets on Tandem and Single-Speeds.......................................105
Tandem Crank Synchronizing..............................................................................................................105
Chain Wear and Damage..................................................................................................................................106
Chain Cleaning...................................................................................................................................................107
Chain Lubrication..............................................................................................................................................107
CHAPTER 9 — DERAILLEUR SYSTEMS

Cable System......................................................................................................................................................110
Cable Housing Length and Routing............................................................................................................111
Cable Lubrication.........................................................................................................................................112
Shift Levers.........................................................................................................................................................112
Flat Bar Trigger Shifters..............................................................................................................................113
Twist Grip Shifters.......................................................................................................................................114
Above-the-Bar Shifters...............................................................................................................................114
Drop Bar Integral Brake/Shift Levers........................................................................................................115
Campagnolo®..........................................................................................................................................116
Down Tube Shifters......................................................................................................................................116
Bar End Shifters............................................................................................................................................116
Front Derailleur..................................................................................................................................................116
Derailleur Cable Attachment......................................................................................................................118
Height Adjustment.......................................................................................................................................118
Rotational Adjustment................................................................................................................................119
Limit Screw Adjustment.............................................................................................................................120
L-Limit Screw.........................................................................................................................................120
H-Limit screw..........................................................................................................................................121
Front Index Adjustment: Three-Chainring Bikes.....................................................................................122
Front Index Adjustment: Two-Chainring Bikes.......................................................................................122
Front Derailleur Performance....................................................................................................................122
Shimano® Front Derailleur FD-9000.........................................................................................................122
Shimano® FD-9000 Front Derailleur Adjustment.............................................................................123
Rear Derailleur...................................................................................................................................................124
Derailleur Capacity and Maximum Sprocket Size...................................................................................124
Derailleur Installation..................................................................................................................................125
www.parktool.com vii
Derailleur Cable Attachment......................................................................................................................125

Limit Screw Adjustment.............................................................................................................................125
H-Limit Screw.........................................................................................................................................126
L-Limit Screw.........................................................................................................................................126
B-Screw Adjustment..............................................................................................................................127
Index Adjustment........................................................................................................................................127
Shimano® Rapid Rise™ Derailleurs.......................................................................................................129
Clutch System Rear Derailleurs.................................................................................................................129
Chainline.............................................................................................................................................................129
Derailleur Hanger Alignment & Repair...........................................................................................................130
Derailleur Wear & Service.................................................................................................................................132
Troubleshooting Derailleur Systems.........................................................................................................133
Electronic Shift Derailleurs...............................................................................................................................133
Shimano® Di2® Intelligent System.............................................................................................................133
Shifters....................................................................................................................................................133
Di2® Battery............................................................................................................................................134
Front Derailleur......................................................................................................................................135
Rear Derailleur.......................................................................................................................................136
Crash Feature.........................................................................................................................................137
Campagnolo® EPS® Derailleurs: Super Record®, Record®, and Athena®...............................................137
EPS® Rear Derailleur Adjustment........................................................................................................138
EPS® Front Derailleur Adjustment.......................................................................................................139
EPS® Derailleur Ride-Setting...............................................................................................................140
Crash Mode and Ride Home Mode.......................................................................................................141
EPS® Battery and Charging Unit...........................................................................................................141
Troubleshooting.....................................................................................................................................141
CHAPTER 10 — INTERNAL GEAR SYSTEMS

SRAM® DualDrive™............................................................................................................................................144
SRAM® I-Motion® 9.............................................................................................................................................145
Shimano® Nexus Inter-7®, Nexus Inter-8®, & Alfine® Hubs...........................................................................146
CHAPTER 11 — CALIPER DISC BRAKE SYSTEMS

Caliper Types.....................................................................................................................................................150
Brake Pads..........................................................................................................................................................150
Disc Brake Rotors...............................................................................................................................................151
Hydraulic Brake Systems..................................................................................................................................152
Hydraulic Brake Levers...............................................................................................................................152
Hydraulic Disc Calipers...............................................................................................................................152
Hydraulic Brake Caliper Alignment.....................................................................................................153
Hydraulic Brake Fluid Service.........................................................................................................................154
Shimano® Hydraulic Brakes........................................................................................................................154
Brake Pad Removal and Replacement................................................................................................154
Brake Bleeding.......................................................................................................................................155
Magura® Hydraulic Caliper Brakes............................................................................................................156
Hayes® Hydraulic Caliper Brakes...............................................................................................................157
Avid® Hydraulic Caliper Brakes.................................................................................................................158
Tektro® Hydraulic Caliper Brakes...............................................................................................................161
Mechanical Disc Brake Systems......................................................................................................................162
Brake Lever..................................................................................................................................................163
Caliper Pad Alignment and Clearance......................................................................................................163
Shimano® Mechanical Disc Brakes.............................................................................................................164
Tektro® Mechanical Disc Brakes................................................................................................................164
Hayes® Mechanical Disc Brakes.................................................................................................................164
Avid® Mechanical Disc Brakes....................................................................................................................164
viii
CHAPTER 12 — CALIPER RIM BRAKE SYSTEMS

Brake Levers......................................................................................................................................................170
Upright Handlebar Brake Levers...............................................................................................................170
Drop Bar Brake Levers................................................................................................................................170
Cable System......................................................................................................................................................171
Cable Lubrication.........................................................................................................................................172
Cable Housing Length.................................................................................................................................172
Caliper Rim Brakes............................................................................................................................................173
Brake Pads....................................................................................................................................................174
Brake Pad Alignment............................................................................................................................174
Vertical Height Alignment....................................................................................................................175
Tangential Alignment............................................................................................................................175
Vertical Face Alignment.......................................................................................................................175
Pad Toe....................................................................................................................................................175
Linear-Pull Caliper Adjustment.................................................................................................................176
Cantilever Caliper Adjustment..................................................................................................................177
Dual-Pivot Caliper Adjustment..................................................................................................................180
Side-Pull Caliper Adjustment......................................................................................................................181
CHAPTER 13 — HANDLEBARS, STEMS, SADDLES, & SEATPOSTS

Upright Handlebars...........................................................................................................................................184
Bar Grips.......................................................................................................................................................184
Drop Style Handlebars (Road Bars)................................................................................................................185
Clip-On and Aero Handlebars....................................................................................................................185
Stems..................................................................................................................................................................186
Quill Stems...................................................................................................................................................186
Threadless Stems.........................................................................................................................................187
Saddles................................................................................................................................................................188
Seatposts............................................................................................................................................................189
CHAPTER 14 — HEADSETS
Headset Types...................................................................................................................................................194
Headset Service.................................................................................................................................................195
Threadless Headset Service.......................................................................................................................196
Threadless Headset Adjustment...............................................................................................................198
Threaded Headset Service.........................................................................................................................198
Threaded Headset Adjustment..................................................................................................................199
Headset Replacement & Installation.............................................................................................................200
Headset Stack Height................................................................................................................................200
Pressed Headset Removal.........................................................................................................................200
Pressed Headset Installation.....................................................................................................................201
Fork Crown Race Installation....................................................................................................................202
Fork Steering Column Sizing..........................................................................................................................202
Threadless Steering Columns...................................................................................................................203
Star Nut and Compression Plug Installation.....................................................................................204
Threaded Steering Columns......................................................................................................................205
CHAPTER 15 — FRAME & FORK

Frame Components..........................................................................................................................................208
Fork...............................................................................................................................................................208
Head Tube....................................................................................................................................................208
Top Tube......................................................................................................................................................208
Down Tube...................................................................................................................................................208
Seat Tube.....................................................................................................................................................208
Chain Stay....................................................................................................................................................208
Seat Stay......................................................................................................................................................209
www.parktool.com ix
Dropouts......................................................................................................................................................209
Bottom Bracket Shell.................................................................................................................................209
Swing Arm...................................................................................................................................................209
Frame Construction & Service........................................................................................................................209
Steel..............................................................................................................................................................209
Aluminium....................................................................................................................................................210
Titanium........................................................................................................................................................210
Carbon Fiber................................................................................................................................................210
CHAPTER 16 — SUSPENSION
Spring Systems..................................................................................................................................................214
Helical Compression Springs.....................................................................................................................214
Elastomer and Rubber Springs..................................................................................................................214
Air (Gas) Springs.........................................................................................................................................214
Shocks (Dampers).............................................................................................................................................215
Suspension Linkages.........................................................................................................................................215
Service & Tuning................................................................................................................................................216
Spring Preload.............................................................................................................................................216
Fluid Viscosity..............................................................................................................................................216
Valving..........................................................................................................................................................216
Linkage..........................................................................................................................................................216
Cyclist Posture.............................................................................................................................................216
Tire Contact..................................................................................................................................................216
CHAPTER 17 — ON-RIDE REPAIR

Tool Choices......................................................................................................................................................220
Repair Procedures............................................................................................................................................220
Flat Tire........................................................................................................................................................220
Cut or Ripped Tire......................................................................................................................................220
Broken Spoke..............................................................................................................................................220
Dented Rim..................................................................................................................................................220
Broken Chains.............................................................................................................................................220
Chain Suck...................................................................................................................................................220
Twisted Chain...............................................................................................................................................221
Squeaky and Noisy Chain...........................................................................................................................221
Rear Derailleur Shifting into the Spokes or Frame.................................................................................221
Derailleur Not Indexing Properly...............................................................................................................221
Broken Derailleur Body, Cage, or Hanger.................................................................................................221
Missing Derailleur Pulleys...........................................................................................................................221
Front Derailleur Cage Bent or Twisted.....................................................................................................221
Crank Falling Off..........................................................................................................................................221
Pedals Falling Off........................................................................................................................................222
Bent Crank...................................................................................................................................................222
Bottom Bracket Loose or Falling Apart...................................................................................................222
Broken Derailleur Cable.............................................................................................................................222
Broken Brake Cable....................................................................................................................................222
Twisted or Bent Handlebars or Stem.......................................................................................................222
Bent Frame or Fork.....................................................................................................................................222
Bent Saddle or Seat Post...........................................................................................................................222
APPENDICES A–E — REFERENCE MATERIALS

A: Tool List.........................................................................................................................................................226
B: Glossary.........................................................................................................................................................228
C: Torque Recommendations..........................................................................................................................233
Torque Conversion Scale...........................................................................................................................237
D: Headset Standards.......................................................................................................................................238
E: Bike Map........................................................................................................................................................240
x
FOREWORD OPENING
T
Foreword
he year was 1956. My father Howard and his partner put it back together just for fun. This manual is designed to
Art Engstrom had just bought a small fix-it shop on give you a complete, well-rounded look at the mechanics of a
the east side of St. Paul, Minnesota, named Hazel Park bicycle. We’ve designed the BBB-3 to help guide you through a
Radio and Bicycle. Both loved to get their hand dirty. So the wide variety of repairs from flat tires to bearing replacement;
shop seemed to be a good fit with their skills. Along with the from repairing a chain to lacing spokes; and from truing a
lawn mowers and ice skates, the shop sold bicycles, although wheel to dropping in a headset. Road or mountain, recumbent
neither new much about bikes. As they dug in to their new or kids bike, tandem or city bike, whatever you ride, we’ve
venture and bicycles evolved to include hand brakes and included information that can help you maintain or repair
shifting systems, Howard and Art soon tired of working on your bike.
bikes turned upside down while squatting on the floor. With Our author, Calvin Jones, is truly one of the world’s most
the help of a longtime friend, Jim Johnson, they designed qualified mechanics and instructors. With over 40 years in the
their first bicycle repair stand. Soon, they realized there was industry, Calvin lives, eats, and breathes bicycles. Here is a
a need for other tools that could make their lives easier, and short list of his qualifications:
a tool business was born. At first Howard and Art produced • US Olympic Team Mechanic, Los Angeles 1984
tools under the Schwinn label, then shortened Hazel Park • 15-time National Team Mechanic and Manager of National
Cycle Center Repair Stand Company into Park Tool Company. Team Mechanics at MTB World Championships
So begins our history. • Instructor at USA Cycling Mechanics Licensing Clinics
Today, Park Tool produces and supplies over 400 different at the U.S. Olympic Training Center in Colorado Springs,
bicycle specialty tools to more than 70 countries worldwide. Colorado since 1985
Go into any bike shop in America or just about any shop • Eight years instructor at Barnett’s Bicycle Institute for
around the globe, and you’ll find our famous Park Tool Blue Bicycle Mechanics
tools in use in the back room and for sale on the showroom • Author, Park Tool School Manual: Park Tool’s in-store
floor. Our goal is simple: Build the best bicycle tools. We are clinic presented by your local bike shop
constantly improving and expanding our line to meet the • Park Tool Director of Education since 1997
expectations of team and professional mechanics as well as • Mechanical advisor for countless bicycle industry
those doing their own work at home or on the trail. manufacturers, professional racing teams, and retailers
This, the third edition of our Big Blue Book contains new We’re sure you’ll agree that Calvin has done his homework
chapters, new photos and most importantly advice and and created a complete and concise manual. It’s sure to be a
mechanical procedures using some of the newest components reference for nearly any mechanical procedure you choose
and parts available alongside hundreds of other repairs and to tackle. This is the book Howard and Art could only dream
basic maintenance instruction. While we love to sell tools, we would ever be written. With a special thanks to Calvin for all
feel strongly that information and knowledge are the most his hard work, late nights and early mornings we’re proud to
valuable tools of all. Once you gain some of this knowledge present the 3rd Edition of The Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair.
and the confidence to use it, a whole new side of bicycling
opens up to you. With a basic understanding of the bicycle
and how it works you’ll be free to ride longer and farther. Eric Hawkins
You’ll understand what makes one bike or one component Owner
better than another. You may even take apart your bike and Park Tool Company
www.parktool.com xi
OPENING INTRODUCTION
I
Introduction
think the bicycle is possibly the perfect combination of this edition. Brake systems are also updated and expanded.
simplicity and complexity. To me, it is more than just a You will also find more information on headsets than in
vehicle that transforms your muscular energy into motion. earlier editions. The headset was once a simple system, which
The bicycle provides transportation, exercise, a way to escape, has now become complex with many different standards.
and a way to be together with friends. I view the bicycle itself You can find specifics for your repair and the relevant page
as a system of numerous levers, bearings, pivots, and parts number at the beginning of the book in the detailed Table of
that require proper care and maintenance. I know that if you Contents. The book is organized by “systems” rather than by
don't have a basic understanding of these parts and how they type of bike, such as “MTB” or “Road Bike.” Both mountain
all work together, fixing your bike can be intimidating, but I bikes and road bikes have crank systems, and both types are
also know that gaining that understanding is easier than you covered in the same chapter.
think. Knowledge of the mechanics of the bicycle will change Creating a bicycle repair book is like creating a new bicycle
the way you ride. It gives you the confidence to ride longer tool. It takes time and effort and the process is never as
and farther, the skills to do trail or roadside repairs, and the straightforward as one would hope. I want to thank Eric
ability to maintain your bike yourself and get it ready for the Hawkins, owner and President of Park Tool Company, for
next ride. his continued support and patience as we worked through
Whether you own a single, high-end bike or a fleet of this new edition of Big Blue. My editor, Bill Gibson, and our
bikes for the family, the third edition of the Big Blue Book of Park Tool Graphic Artist, Joel King, were indispensable in
Bicycle Repair is designed to help you, the home mechanic, this project. I have also received invaluable help and advice
keep your equipment in top-notch condition. This book is a from the technical representatives at Mavic®, Shimano®,
natural for Park Tool Company, where we’ve been designing Campagnolo®, SRAM®, and FSA® regarding the proper
and manufacturing bicycle tools for professional and home procedures to use when preparing or maintaining their
mechanics since 1963. Now, with the Big Blue Book 3, we are products. I also want to thank everyone who emailed or called
giving you more than five decades of knowledge about bicycle me with feedback. It makes each edition better when we hear
repair in one comprehensive, easy-to-use manual. from readers.
This latest Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair-3 is updated Thanks for purchasing the BBB-3 Big Blue Book of Bicycle
with information on the newest technologies. The modern Repair. This edition carries on as the most comprehensive and
crank and bottom bracket standards and their service are easy-to-use bicycle repair manual we have ever published.
reviewed in this edition. We cover the new and major changes
in derailleurs, such as 11-speed systems, and the new
electronic shifting systems from Campagnolo® and Shimano®. Calvin Jones
Thru-axle hubs are now more popular, so we include them in Park Tool Company
xii
1 Basic mechanical skills
Basic mechanical skills
CHAPTER 1 BASIC MECHANICAL SKILLS
E quipment and machinery of all types share many

commonalities. Leverage, friction, tension, material
strength, and bonding are all parts of automobiles,
coffee makers, satellites, and bicycles. Understanding some
basic concepts of engineering will help you understand and
FIGURE 1.1
service any equipment or bicycle.
THREADED FASTENER TENSION & TORQUE

Manufacturers use threaded fasteners to hold many
components to the bike, and the bike itself can act as a nut
for certain threaded parts. Understanding threaded fasteners
(i.e., bolts and screws) is an important part of bicycle
maintenance. These fasteners are made of two parts: the
external thread, which is the bolt or screw, and the internal Left-hand threads are seen on left pedal and right-hand threads on right
pedal. Threads slope upward toward direction of tightening.
thread, which is the nut.
It is important to align threads correctly when you first is held vertically, the threads will appear to slope upward
begin to engage the inner and outer threads. The critical toward the bolt’s tightening direction. Right-hand threads
threads are the first ones, and damaging these threads from slope upward to the right, and left-hand threads slope upward
misalignment can make the component very difficult to to the left (figure 1.1).
install. Take note of the axis of both inner and outer threads As a fastener is tightened, the fastener and the threads
and make sure you are rotating the parts square to this axis. actually flex and stretch, much like a rubber band. This
One technique for beginning a difficult-to-start thread is to stretching is not permanent. It gives force to the joint,
purposely rotate the threaded part backwards to feel the first holding it together (figure 1.2). The stretching force is called
thread engagement. You will feel a click or give in the part, “preload” or tension. Each fastener is designed for a certain
which tells you this is the beginning of the thread. Rotate in range of tension. Too much tightening will deform the threads
the correct direction after this. or damage the parts. However, a fastener with too little
Threads are made in many different sizes. Bolts that appear preload will loosen with use, which in some cases can also
identical may actually be made for different nuts or fittings. damage the part. For example, riding with a loose crank bolt
The size of the thread is designated and named by the nominal will eventually damage the crank. Loose bolts and nuts are
external thread diameter and pitch of the thread. Thread also a common source of creaking noises on the bike as the
diameter is measured from the outside to outside of the thread component parts move and rub one another.
crest. However, the actual, and accurate, measurement is FIGURE 1.2
slightly smaller than the common name for the thread size.
For example, a ½ inch thread may measure 0.495 inches, not
0.500 inches. It is still referred to as a ½ inch thread.
Metric thread sizing is given in millimeters and given
the prefix “M.” For example, the M6 thread would measure
between 5.8 mm and 5.9 mm.
The pitch is the distance from the crest of one thread to
another measured along the length of the thread. Thread
diameter can be measured with a caliper, but pitch is best
measured with a thread pitch gauge.
The so-called “English” or SAE (Society of Automotive
Engineers) threads are designated by the frequency of how
many threads are counted along one inch. This is called Crank bolts under tension keeps the crank pressed secure to the spindle
“threads per inch” and is abbreviated as “tpi.” An example of Typically it is necessary to lubricate threads. Without being
an SAE thread is ⁹⁄₁₆ in. x 20 tpi (for pedal threads). Metric lubricated, the internal and external threads of a fastener
threading uses the direct pitch measurement in millimeters rub and scrape together, sticking temporarily, rather than
from thread crest to the adjacent thread crest measured smoothly and fully tightening to create a level of tension in
along the thread axis. An example of metric thread would be the bolt that holds the fastener firmly until you disassemble
10 mm x 1 mm (common rear derailleur bolt). it. Lubrication also aids in preventing corrosion. As a rule of
Threads are made to advance as they rotate. Many thumb, if the threads are relatively small with a fine thread
threaded fasteners, but not all, tighten when turned pitch, a liquid lubricant is adequate. If the thread size is
clockwise. These are called “right-hand threads.” Some relatively large, grease is preferred. For example, a small bolt
threads on the bicycle are made to advance and tighten holding a derailleur shift wire can be oiled, but the large
when turned counter-clockwise and are called “left-hand threads of pedals should be greased.
threads.” All threads are made at a slight angle when viewed There are exceptions to always lubricating a thread. Either
along the axis of the thread. If the threaded bolt or screw the internal or external thread may have nylon fittings,
2
BASIC MECHANICAL SKILLS CHAPTER 1
commonly called “Nylock.” The nylon insert in the thread “perceived effort” and is an important skill to develop and
prevents the screw or bolt from turning freely. Nylock understand. Perceived effort is subjective and will change
systems are used for adjustments when there is low torque or with the length of the tool used and where the hand holds
even no torque on the fastener. For example, derailleur limit the tool. Think about lifting a six-pack of 12 ounce beverage
screws use plastic fittings to prevent the screws from turning cans. The six-pack weighs approximately 4.7 pounds. This
and changing the derailleur adjustment. Do not lubricate the effort applied to a wrench held 6 inches from the bolt is
limit screws. about 30 inch-pounds of torque, just about what is required
Generally, bolts and nuts should be tightened as tight as to tighten a derailleur cable pinch bolt. Now consider hefting,
the weakest member of the bolt-nut component system can with one hand, a 24 count case of 12 ounce beverage cans.
withstand. For example, crank bolts are large and can take a Typically, that effort will be close to 20 pounds. That much
very high torque. Cranks, however, are typically made from effort on a wrench held 6 inches from the bolt is 120 inch-
aluminum and cannot withstand as much pressure as the pounds, approximately the amount of torque required for
bolt could potentially generate. The crank is the weak link hub cone locknuts and a minimum torque for pedal threads.
in that system, and manufacturers limit the recommended Cranks with a single bolt typically require about 300−400
torque accordingly. inch-pounds, which is one of the highest torque values on a
To prevent overtightening and undertightening, many bicycle. That is at least 50 pounds of effort holding a wrench
manufacturers provide specific torque values, best achieved 6 inches from the crank bolt.
by using a torque wrench (figure 1.3). Torque wrenches are If you are not using a torque wrench, it is still useful to use
simply a type of measuring tool, like a tape measure or a torque values as a guideline for perceived effort. To determine
ruler. Torque wrenches measure the amount of turning effort the effort, divide the inch-pound torque by the number of
applied to the bolt or nut. A torque wrench should be part of inches from the middle of your hand to the bolt or nut. For
the bicycle tool kit, but it is possible to work without one at example, in the image below, a 300 inch-pound torque is
some risk. desired to hold the wheel to the frame. The hand is holding a
FIGURE 1.3 wrench 6 inches from the nut. Apply an effort of 50 pounds
force (figure 1.4).
FIGURE 1.4
A beam type torque wrench

Measured torque may be given in Newton-meter, inch-
pound, or foot-pound units. These units of measure refer to Apply force to wrench according to distance from hand to bolt
the force at the end of a lever. For example, 60 inch-pounds FIGURE 1.5
are equal to 60 pounds of force at the end of a 1 inch wrench.
If the wrench were 2 inches long, 30 pounds of force would be
required to achieve the same torque on the bolt. If force were
applied at 12 inches from the bolt, only 5 pounds of effort
would be required.
To convert inch-pound units into foot-pound units, divide
the inch-pound number by 12. For example, 60 inch-pounds
of torque are equal to 5 foot-pounds. To convert foot-
pound units into inch-pounds, multiply foot-pounds by 12.
Three foot-pounds are equal to 36 inch-pounds. To convert
Newton-meters to inch-pounds, multiply Newton-meters by
8.85. There is a list of recommended torque specifications in
Appendix C. Use the component manufacturer’s recommended Poor mechanical advantage
torque when available. It is very useful to understand the concept of “mechanical
With experience, a person may learn the amount of force to advantage” especially when working on tight bolts and nuts.
apply to a wrench when tightening a fastener. It may require The wrench acts as a lever that pivots on the bolt or nut. In
both overtightening and then undertightening fasteners in situations where two wrenches are used, position the
order to learn acceptable torques. Tightening by feel relies on wrenches to form a “V,” with the bolt or nut at the point
www.parktool.com 3
FIGURE 1.6 or no lubrication left. Grease should be changed when

it becomes contaminated with grit and dirt or when the
oil in the grease becomes old and dry, which reduces its
lubricating properties. Water may also wash out grease; the
bottom bracket bearings are especially vulnerable to this
type of failure.
It can be difficult to know when the grease used in the
component parts is contaminated. It will be necessary to
simply disassemble a hub or part and inspect. By the time a
bearing is making noise, the damage from poor lubrication
is already done. As a rule of thumb, the grease should be
replaced once a year. If the bike is used for racing or ridden
daily, replace the grease two to three times per year.
Good mechanical advantage Grease is commonly sold in tubes or in tubs. Use care to
of the “V.” This position allows more force to be applied always replace the lid when using the tub so the grease
effectively to the bolt head. Avoid positioning the wrench so does not become contaminated. Liquid lubricants come in
the levers form an angle greater than 90 degrees. When using spray aerosol and non-aerosol bottles. The non-aerosol
one wrench, look for the second lever. This will sometimes be bottles use a tube for dripping the lubricant, which allows
in the form of the opposite crank when working on pedals or the user to place it where it does the most good. Aerosols
the frame tubing while working on the bottom bracket (figure can easily over-lubricate parts by spraying too much
1.5 and 1.6). lubrication, but they can be helpful when flushing away
dirt. If the bike is ridden in heavy rain, taken through
LUBRICATION, THREADLOCKERS, stream crossings, or is washed with soap and water, liquid
& CLEANERS lubricants should be applied to suspension pivot points. Do
Bicycles require various types of lubricants depending upon not drip or spray oil into greased bearings such as hubs,
the component part and how it is used. Lubricants vary in headsets, and bottom brackets.
how well they work, what they are composed of, and how Another option for thread preparation and some press
they are sold. fit parts is anti-seize compound. This provides a thick and
Lubrication prevents friction and corrosion, including rust. durable coating for surfaces. Anti-seize solutions are typically
Engines use motor oil under pressure to ensure that pistons made of ground metals such as aluminum or copper that
and bearings run smoothly. The car engine has pumps to are combined with lubricants. These compounds are not
maintain oil pressure to keep friction between parts low. appropriate for moving bearing surfaces such as hubs or
That’s a luxury the self-propelled cyclist cannot afford. headset bearings. Anti-seize compound, such as Park Tool
Lubrication on bicycles is based on a much simpler system ASC-1 Anti-Seize Compound, tend to outlast grease when
called “boundary lubrication,” which refers to a very thin exposed to water and makes a long lasting preparation for
film of lubricant that separates moving bearing surfaces. applications such as bottom bracket shell installations.
This boundary of just a few molecules of lubrication is all we Threadlockers and retaining compounds are special liquid
have to prevent metal from being ripped off a hub bearing or adhesives for metal fasteners and fittings. These liquids are
chain rivet. available at home improvement centers, hardware stores,
A good lubricant should stick to the part requiring or automotive parts stores. Threadlockers are made by the
lubrication. Unfortunately, that means dirt and grit may Loctite® Corporation, the Wurth® Company, ND Industries®,
want to stick to the part as well. Water tends to wash off and the Devcon® Company. Retailers commonly sell a
lubricants. Liquids such as chain lubricants vary in their type of threadlocker called “anaerobic.” These liquids cure
resistance to being washed off. It is useful to have available independently of air and will harden and expand when sealed
several lubrication choices. A light liquid lubricant will in the threads of the part. This process is what gives the
penetrate easier into smaller areas, such as derailleur cable threadlockers and compounds their special features. It should
housing. Examples of a light lubricant are Park Tool CL-1 be stressed, however, that these products should not be used
Synthetic Blend Chain Lube and Triflow®. Heavy lubricants to replace proper torque and pre-load when the clamping load
stick better in very wet conditions and are good for is important. Most threadlockers are designed for use with
lubrication where grease is not useful. A chain used in the metals. They may harden and weaken plastic and generally
rain or the internals of a freehub would be good areas for a are not intended for that material.
heavier lubricant. An example of a heavy lubricant would be Lighter duty threadlockers are considered “service removable.”
Phil Wood™ Tenacious Oil™, or Finish Line™ Cross Country™. This means the part can be unthreaded and removed with
Grease is simply oil suspended in a mixture of surfactant, normal service procedures. An example of a service removable
soap, or other compounds. Grease keeps the lubricating threadlocker is Loctite® 242®. Stronger compounds require extra
oil in place on the component part, but it is the oil in the procedures to disassemble the part, such as treating with a
grease that provides the lubrication. When grease gets heat gun. In a pinch, even hot water poured on the part can be
pushed out of the way of the bearings, there will be little enough heat to soften the compound.
4
Retaining compounds are intended for press fit This is normal and does not significantly affect the ride.
applications. On a bicycle, they may be used for poor Generally, the lighter load a bearing is expected to experience,
cartridge bearing press fits and poor headset cup fits. the “smoother” the feel of that bearing. Bearing systems
Retaining compounds tend to have a higher viscosity than experiencing more stress and pressure will seem to have more
the threadlocking compounds. Many retaining compounds drag, even when the adjustment is correct. For example, a
require special techniques for removal, such as excess force bearing for a rear derailleur pulley, which is designed for
or mild heat or both. An example of a retaining compound is low stress loads, will seem to have less spinning resistance
Loctite® 680. compared to a bottom bracket bearing, which is designed to
Retaining compounds are less effective for plastic or carbon handle more load.
fiber press fit situations. When attempting to use a retaining The races and balls are greased to minimize wear. The
compound, such as on a PF30 bottom bracket press fit, use bearing system is commonly shielded from dirt by covers and
the special liquid primers from the compound manufacturers, seals. Exposure to the elements will increase wear on the
following their directions. These primers allow the compounds bearing surfaces and shorten bearing life.
to harden and expand. Without use of the primer, the Cartridge bearings use an industrial, or rolling element,
compounds may simply remain liquid and not cure. bearing. Ball bearings are trapped between inner and outer
Another compound useful on carbon fiber bikes is an rotating races (figure 1.7). There should be no play between
“assembly compound,” such as Park Tool SAC-2 Super new bearings at the inner and outer races of the cartridge.
Assembly Compound. These are basically a silicon dioxide With use, however, play will develop between these two races,
(sand-like) material in a liquid or paste carrier. Do not and then the cartridge bearing must be replaced.
confuse this with grease: it is not lubrication and should FIGURE 1.7
never be used as lubrication! It provides extra friction
wherever it is placed and can be useful in seat tubes of
carbon fiber that have difficulty holding the seat post
secure. It can also be useful in clamping a front derailleur
bracket to a carbon frame. The grit in this compound will not
structurally harm carbon fiber, but you should expect some
surface marring.
Servicing bicycle components, such as the chain, will
require cleaners and solvents. Never use highly flammable
liquids such as gasoline, kerosene, or diesel as cleaning
solvent. There are safer solvent choices on the market,
including Park Tool CB-2 Chain and Parts Cleaning fluid.
It is possible to reuse solvents for an extended period of Typical cartridge bearing shown with outer race cut away. Ball bearings
time. Save used solvent in a sealed container and allow it to ride on inner and outer curved races.
settle for days. The dirt and grit will settle to the bottom. FIGURE 1.8
Carefully pour off the solvent and reuse. Scrape the grit from
the bottom and dispose of it and spent solvent by contacting
your local hazardous waste disposal site, which is typically
with a state or county agency.
For cleaning the paint on the frame use mild cleaners,
such as window cleaners, or simply soap and water. Isopropyl
rubbing alcohol is usually adequate for cleaning rim-braking
surfaces. It is important that cleaners for braking surfaces not
leave an oily film.
BEARING SYSTEMS
Bearing systems on bikes typically use ball bearings. Round
ball bearings are trapped between two bearing surfaces, called Lift cartridge bearing seals from the inside edge to remove
races. The two basic ball bearing systems are cartridge bearing and clean bearing
systems and adjustable “cup and cone” bearing systems. Cartridge-type systems are designed to be disposable and
Neither system is inherently better for use on a bicycle. rely on replacement of the entire cartridge bearing rather
Adjustable-type systems can be overhauled by disassembly, than cleaning and greasing the existing bearing. However,
inspection, and re-greasing. if the axle or spindle can be removed from the center of the
Even the highest quality bearing surfaces will have bearing, it is often possible to lift the seal from the inside lip
slight marks and imperfections from grinding as they are and flush the bearings clean with a solvent (figure 1.8). The
manufactured. Better quality bearing surfaces are ground bearing should be blown dry and repacked with grease. Return
smoother and will have less friction and resistance to turning. the seal and press into place. If the axle or spindle cannot be
All bearings, however, will have some friction as they rotate. removed, it will damage the seal to remove it.
www.parktool.com 5
DIAGNOSING & SOLVING the same and don’t require every tool listed in the Tool Box.
MECHANICAL PROBLEMS Keep in mind that older bikes may need special tools as well.
As you develop mechanical skills and become more Consult your local bicycle professional for recommendations
experienced with the technical side of the bicycle, diagnosing on specific tools.
particular problems will become easier. To learn this skill, Tools differ between manufacturers in many ways including
begin by paying attention to your bike while you ride and tool finish, fit in the hand, type of material, and tool fit to
become accustomed to how it sounds and feels when things the part. The finish affects both the look of the tool and
are operating properly. how it will resist corrosion. A hand tool should fit the hand
A basic component of diagnosing and discussing technical comfortably and not be awkward to use. The type of material
or mechanical issues is knowing the names of the component may affect the durability of the tool. Good quality steel will
parts. Being familiar with what shop mechanics call a part last longer than softer grades. Tools are typically made to a
will enable you to converse and provide useful information. certain size. The size should fit the part correctly without
Appendix E is a Bike Map, showing the common names of the being too large or too small. Bicycle component manufacturers
various component parts of the bike. Additionally, a glossary sometimes limit what tool companies can do for tool design.
of bicycle specific terms can be found in Appendix B. For example, if a component part was poorly thought out and
Diagnosing from the saddle, while riding, can be quite service considered only after the design was completed, a
useful when repairing the problem later. For example, note “correct” fitting tool may not be possible.
if an unusual noise is repetitive or occurs with every pedal Box-end wrenches and open-end wrenches fit over the outside
revolution. This would place the problem in the crankset area, of a bolt head or nut. When choosing a wrench for a particular
like the pedal, bottom bracket, or chainring. A noise every bolt, pick the smallest size that will fit over the head/nut. This
second or third revolution might be in the chain, such as also applies to spoke wrenches. Two different wrenches can
a stiff link as it passes by the derailleur pulley wheels. Ask appear to fit, but the smaller one will grab the part better.
yourself if the noise occurs when pedaling only or also when Hex wrenches and screwdrivers (Phillips®, cross-tip, and
coasting. Make a mental note if the noise or problem occurs straight blade) fit inside a screw head. The proper size here
under load, such as on a hill or when you hit a small bump. is the largest one that will fit inside. Although two different
It can be very helpful to use another mechanically-minded screwdriver tips may fit inside a screw head, always choose
friend when diagnosing problems. For example, a friend can the larger one for more engagement to the head.
stress the suspect part of the bike, such as the crank, while A complete tool table for a very complete home shop is listed
you listen and feel for creaking. Creaking can often be felt in Appendix A. However, the table does not include some tools
through the frame and parts as a resonance. It can also be professionals might use, such as frame machining equipment.
useful to ride with a friend, first describing what you think It is important for all mechanics, whether casual home
you are hearing and experiencing before you both ride. Use mechanics or professional mechanics, to always use tools
extra care during these diagnosing/riding sessions so you correctly. Wrenches should be placed fully on the nut or bolt
don’t run into each other or into parked cars! head before turning. Hex wrenches should be fully inserted
into the socket fitting before turning. Hold wrenches for
TOOLS & TOOL SELECTION comfort and good mechanical advantage. When using a file or
Having the correct tool for the job makes the work easier. hacksaw, apply pressure on the forward cutting stroke, not
Bicycles require both general maintenance tools common in on the backstroke. These basic habits may seem obvious and
any toolbox and specialty tools unique to the bicycle industry. pedestrian, but they are what make good mechanics.
There are a wide variety of sources for tools, such as bicycle
retailers, department stores, automotive stores, and general REPAIR STANDS
tool retailers. In some cities, there are also public workshops The repair stand (work stand) is the basic and most crucial
that rent special tools and workbench space by the hour. piece of equipment for any shop or home. Getting the bike off
It is possible to purchase tools only as they are required. the ground makes the repair quicker, easier, and more fun. A
This is economical in one sense but not timely in another. FIGURE 1.9
When a part fails, the tools to repair the problem must be
sought out, which can create a long delay in fixing the bike.
Anticipating the use of tools and purchasing them ahead
of time means initially spending money, but the tools are
there when you need them. Your priorities in purchasing tools
depend upon your bike’s components, the type of
maintenance you want to do yourself, the frequency of the
work, and your growing mechanical interests and skill level.
Look for the “Tool and Supplies” icon throughout the book,
which lists tools and supplies typically required for the
described procedure. Some tools are common, such as
screwdrivers. Other tools, such as crank pullers, are more
specific to the bicycle industry. Bikes are not all equipped Park Tool PCS-10 screw-type clamp with an opening cam
6
good work stand brings the work up to the mechanic, instead When in doubt, check with the manufacturer for acceptable
of forcing the mechanic to bend over to get to the work. areas to clamp.
Work stands also allow the mechanic to pedal the bicycle There are several clamp and stand designs available. Models
by hand and quickly diagnose problems. Many stands come vary in adjustability, range of working height, and how they
with a rotational feature that allows the bike to rotate up to hold the bike (figures 1.9 to 1.12). There are also repair
the mechanic. Repair stands often have a height adjustment stands available that do not clamp the bike on any tube
feature, which allows for raising and lowering the bicycle. (figure 1.13).
Some bike frames have oval, square, or other non-round FIGURE 1.13
shaped tubing, making it difficult to clamp onto the frame
tubing. For certain frames, the bicycle manufacturer may
recommend clamping only on the seat post, rather than the
frame tubing. Most bikes can be clamped on the seat post.
FIGURE 1.10
Park Tool PRS-21 holds the bike without clamping any tubes
HOME SHOP SETUP

Home mechanics may enjoy setting up a dedicated repair
area or, basically, their own “bike shop.” The primary
Park Tool PCS-9 screw type clamp requirement for a shop is space for a workbench, a repair
FIGURE 1.11 stand, the bike, and enough room to maneuver. A common
size for commercial workbenches is 72 inches by 30 inches
(182 cm by 75 cm). This is deep enough to hold a wheel. It
is possible to use a bench shorter than the 72 inches, but
avoid benches narrower than 30 inches deep. If you are
building a custom workbench, it can be set for the height of
the user. This may range from 32 inches to 40 inches high.
For general technical work, the top of the workbench should
be approximately 4 inches to 6 inches (100−150 mm) below
the height of the user’s elbow. The bench top can be made
of many different materials, but expect the top to take some
punishment during work. It is very useful to bolt the bench
to the floor and to a wall. This is especially important if you
plan to mount a vise to the bench.
Tools may be mounted to a board on the wall. This allows
the mechanic to quickly find the right tool. A pegboard
provides a versatile system to hang and arrange tools. Higher
Park Tool PRS-25 screw type clamp with opening cam quality pegboard measures ¼ inch thick. The pegboard should
be at least as wide as the workbench. Hardware stores and
FIGURE 1.12
home supply stores stock pegboard hooks. A mix of short
and long hooks will be needed. However, the short hooks are
better, as this avoids stacking too many tools on one hook.
A tool magnet is also a very useful item for the work area. It
can hold odd shaped steel tools and even bolts that you don’t
want to lose during a repair.
If possible, select an area with good light. You may need to
supplement the work area with extra lighting. Painting the
pegboard surface white or off-white will reflect more light
onto your work area.
A good repair stand is the most critical part of the repair
shop. The repair stand should be positioned next to the work
Park Tool 100-3C over-center adjustable linkage clamp area. Keep the stand close to the workbench to avoid taking
www.parktool.com 7
even one step to the bike but not so close you are crowded. TABLE 1.1 Maintenance Schedule
Be sure to use the rotation and height adjustment features Every Ride
of the stand to move the work area of the bike closer to you,
1. Check pressure in tires. Use tire gauge when available. Squeeze sidewalls
rather than bending over. Save your back for riding. at a minimum.
If possible, get a bench-mounted vise. A 4 inch vise is
2. Check tires for tread cuts
typically adequate for bicycle repair. Mount the vise on a
3. Grab brake levers with force, note any differences between rides
corner of the bench so the non-moving jaw is even with the
bench edge. 4. Bounce bike, listening for rattles and odd noises, such as loose headset
When arranging tools on the wall, place the tools likely to 5. Spin pedals backwards, note any squeaky or dry chain
be used in conjunction with the vise close to the vise. For 6. Clean/wash if very gritty and dirty
example, place the axle vise, cone wrenches, hammer, and Every 100 Miles (160 Kilometers)
freewheel tools closer to the vise.
1. Check chain stretch
Another very useful piece of equipment is an air
compressor. A floor pump can, of course, provide enough 2. Inspect cable for cuts
air pressure for tires. A small air compressor, however, is 3. Clean chain if necessary or dirty
useful for drying parts after washing them with a solvent. A 4. Inspect brake pads for wear
compressor is also very useful when inflating tubeless tires. 5. Inspect tires for tread wear, replace as needed
Tool arrangement preferences will vary from mechanic to
6. Check hand pump for ability to create pressure
mechanic, but try to group specialty tools together. Brake
tools should be with other brake tools. Non-specialty tools 7. Check for bearing play in wheel hubs
should be together with hex wrenches grouped together and 8.
combination wrenches lined up in order (figure 1.14). With 9.
time you will develop the system that is best for you. Every 500 Miles (800 Kilometers)
FIGURE 1.14 1. Grab cranks and pull side-to-side
2. Lubricate pivot points
3. Lubricate brake and shifter cables
4. Check crank bolts
5. Full suspension bikes, check swing arm pivot bolts
6. Inspect frame for cracks or other anomalies
7.
8.
Every 1,000 Miles (1600 Kilometers)
1. Inspect rims for wear if using rim calipers
2. If ridden in muddy and hard conditions, overhaul bearings
Workbench layout
3. Inspect shoe cleats and replace as needed
4. Remove seat post and clean; re-grease as appropriate
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
The idea of a schedule of maintenance is that it will 5.
encourage you to check certain items on a regular basis. No 6.
two bikes are used in identical conditions, and your bike may Every 3,000 Miles (4,800 Kilometers)
benefit from more checking than a list suggests. If you ride 1. Grease bearings if non-cartridge
in conditions of rain, mud, sand, dust, salt water, pot-holed 2. Remove tires and inspect rim strip
roads, or aggressive trails, these will take their toll on the
3. Install new cables and housing, especially shifting systems
bike. Table 1.1 should be viewed only a general reference. Add
your own items to the list that you feel are needed. 4. Replace cartridge bearings if worn or play is present
5.
6.
8
2 Tires & tubes
Tires & tubes
CHAPTER 2 TIRES & TUBES
T ires are the rubber and fabric casings fitted over the
wheel rim. The common bicycle wheel uses pneumatic
tires referred to as “wired-on” tires or “clinchers.” The
wheel’s rim uses a channel or U-shape to hold the tire beads.
The smooth ride of the bicycle is due in large part to the air
FIGURE 2.1
in the tires. Inside conventional tires is an inner tube to hold

the air. The tire’s body and casing around the inner tube takes
the stress of air pressure, bumps, and bruises of riding. There
are also “tubeless” systems using special rims and tires that
are similar in design to car tire systems and contain no inner
tube. Many professional-level road racers also use sew-up or
tubular tire systems that use a tire with tube built inside that
are glued to special rims.
Servicing flat tires is a basic skill required for any cyclist. Fork with wheel retention devices cast into dropout end
Anything from sharp thorns, glass, or nails can puncture be designed with retention devices intended to hold a wheel
tires and inner tubes, and the tire itself will wear out with should the axle-nuts or quick-release fail (figure 2.1). The
use and time. quick-release nut must typically be loosened several turns to
Tools & Supplies: allow the mechanism to clear the fork when the quick-release
lever is open. Even with these extra design features, the
wheel axle should be fully and properly tight in the fork.
Thru-axle frame and fork designs use a closed hole in the
• Wrench of correct size for wheels with fork or frame end. This permits a stronger retention system
axle nuts (15 mm is common) and precisely positions the wheel and rotor (if any) in the
frame. A removable axle is fitted through the frame/fork hole,
into the thru-axle hub, and engages the opposite side. Thru-
axle forks may use a 15 mm or 20 mm axle, and rear hubs use
a 12 mm thru-axle.
A thru-axle hub may be held tight with pinch bolts in
WHEEL REMOVAL the frame, or it may use a quick-release system, such as the
The wheel must be removed to replace the tube and tire. If “Maxle” which require no tools for removal. For removing
possible, begin by mounting the bike in a repair stand. If no thru-axle hubs, see page 25.
stand is available, the bike should be laid on the non-drive Procedure for wheel removal—open dropouts with
side to avoid damage to the rear derailleur when the rear quick-release:
wheel is removed. Do not stand the bike upright without the a. Rear wheel: Shift derailleurs to outermost rear cog and
rear wheel in place, as this will damage the rear derailleur. innermost front chainring.
The bicycle may be turned upside down on the ground if there b. Front and Rear: Release rim brake caliper quick-release,
is no chance of lever or accessory damage on the handlebar. if any (figure 2.2, figure 2.3, figure 2.4, figure 2.5).
Bikes with quick-release hubs do not require tools for wheel c. Front and Rear: Release wheel quick-release by pulling
removal. Bikes with axle nuts will require the correct size quick-release lever outward. If necessary, loosen quick-
combination wrench or adjustable wrench. release adjusting nut to clear any tabs at end of fork
Common quick-release wheels use a hollow hub axle fitted (figure 2.6). If the quick-release is used on a thru-axle
with a shaft, a lever that operates a cam mechanism, and an fork and hub, it is necessary to remove axle completely
adjusting nut. Swinging the lever to the closed position puts from hub. For non-quick-release wheels, loosen both
tension on the shaft and pulls both the cam and the adjusting axle nuts.
nut tight against the fork or frame dropouts. This tension
FIGURE 2.2
holds the wheel securely to the frame. The adjusting nut
determines the amount of tension on the quick-release lever
and cam.
Non-quick-release hubs use a solid axle with nuts outside
the dropouts. An axle nut may have a built-in washer, or
there may be a separate washer under the nut. If the washer
has teeth or a knurled surface, these face the dropout
to help secure the wheel. When removing wheels with
axle nuts, loosen only the nuts on both sides outside of
dropouts. Lubricate the axle threads while the wheel is off
the bike.
Common fork or frame designs use an open slot dropout
to fit a 9 mm front axle and a 10 mm rear axle. Forks may Side-pull or dual-pivot rim caliper may have quick-release at caliper arm
12
TIRES & TUBES CHAPTER 2
FIGURE 2.3 FIGURE 2.7
Quick-release located at brake lever Pivot rear derailleur back to clear wheel and cogs of frame
FIGURE 2.4 d. Front: Guide the wheel through the brake pads and out
the fork ends.
Rear: Pull back on rear derailleur to allow cogs to clear
chain (figure 2.7). Lower wheel, guiding the wheel down
through caliper brake pads and forward to clear chain
and derailleur. Note: Some bike dropouts are rear facing.
Pull wheel back to remove it from the dropouts. Unhook
chain from cog for removal.
There are rear derailleur systems that use a clutch mechanism
in their pivots, which could make it awkward to remove the
rear wheel without a way to lock the tension cage in a position
that lowers chain tension. The Shimano® Shadow Plus® system
and the SRAM® Type 2 derailleurs use clutch mechanisms that
Squeeze linear-pull calipers together and disconnect provide resistance at the lower pulley, which are intended to
cable “noodle” from linkage prevent the chain from bouncing off, slapping the frame, or
FIGURE 2.5 wrapping around the bottom bracket during rough travel.
When changing the rear wheel with the Shimano® clutch
system, look for a lever on the lower pivot of the derailleur
body. Pull the lever down to disengage the clutch feature
(figure 2.8). The derailleur will now easily pivot backward to
release the rear wheel. After the wheel is reinstalled, pull the
lever back up to engage the clutch.
FIGURE 2.8
Squeeze the cantilever calipers together and disconnect

the straddle wire cable
FIGURE 2.6
Push on-off lever upward to return derailleur to clutch operation mode

SRAM® Type 2 derailleurs do not use an “on-off” lever.
The lower pulley is pushed forward, and a button is pushed
to engage and hold the cage forward, creating chain slack
(figure 2.9).
Remove the wheel with the cage in the locked mode (figure
2.10.) Reinstall the wheel, and push forward on the lower
pulley to release the cage lock and to return the derailleur to
Puller lever from closed to open position the working mode.
www.parktool.com 13
FIGURE 2.9 all the surfaces of the tire, tube, rim tape, and tire bead seat
inside the rim.
Procedure for tire and tube removal:
a. Remove valve cap. Fully threaded valve shafts may also
have a locking nut next to the rim. Loosen and remove
valve locknut before deflating inner tube.
b. Deflate tube completely. Even a small amount of air left
in the tube can make it more difficult to get the tire
off the rim. For best results, press downward on wheel
while depressing the valve. Schrader valves: depress valve
plunger with small hex wrench.
c. The tire bead will be pressed tight against rim sidewall.
Push both sides of tire toward the center of the rim to
Push forward on lower pulley and depress cage lock button to hold. loosen the bead (figure 2.11).
Remove and install wheel with cage in locked mode Push the tire bead toward middle of rim
FIGURE 2.12
REMOVAL OF TIRE & TUBE FROM RIM
Remove the tire and tube (if any) from the wheel for a
complete inspection. A mounted clincher tire has two beads
that are fitted to the inner walls of the wheel rim. Use tire
levers to pry one tire bead up and over the rim sidewall. Tire
levers come in different shapes, sizes, and materials. Plastic
levers (Park Tool TL-1, TL-4, or TL-6) are typically adequate
and will not leave blemishes on the rim. Use only plastic tire
levers for carbon fiber clincher wheels to avoid damaging the
rim surface.
Some tire and rim combinations are extremely tight and
may require a steel lever, such as the Park Tool TL-5. Some
cosmetic marring may occur with any metal lever, but this Engage tire levers under tire bead
will not harm the function of the rim. To avoid cosmetic d. Engage one tire lever under bead of tire. Engage second
damage, you may use Park Tool TL-6 composite-covered steel lever 1−2 inches (2−5 cm) from first lever then push both
core tire levers. levers down towards the spokes to lift the bead up and
When possible, mark the tire at the valve to help in off the rim (figure 2.12).
locating any holes in the tube. Use the mark to trace the e. Disengage one of the levers. Move it approximately 2 inches
location back to the tire. However, always inspect entirely (5 cm) along the rim and engage this lever under the bead.
Caution: Push lever to lift the next section of bead off rim.
f. Repeat engaging the lever until the bead loosens. Then
slide the lever along the rim under the bead until the
bead is completely removed from the rim.
Do not use a screwdriver, knife or other g. Starting opposite the valve, pull inner tube out from
sharp object as a lever. Doing so could inside of the tire. Lift valve from valve hole and remove
damage the tire or tube. tube from wheel.
h. Remove second bead from rim, which removes the tire
completely from the rim. To fully inspect the tube and
tire, it is best to remove the tire completely.
14
INNER TUBE INSPECTION 2.15). Do not mark directly on the hole, as the marks
When servicing a flat tire, always inspect the tire and may be sanded off, making the puncture’s location
tube carefully to locate the cause of failure. If you intend to difficult to find.
replace the inner tube, knowing the cause of the flat can help d. Inspect the remainder of inner tube for more holes.
prevent future flats. The type of cut or hole in the tube will help determine the
Procedure for inner tube inspection: cause of the flat. Common cuts and their causes include:
a. Reinflate inner tube, if possible, to twice its normal
width. This extra pressure makes small leaks easier to CUT AT VALVE BASE
locate (figure 2.13 and figure 2.14). Misalignment of inner tube in the rim, a crooked valve,
FIGURE 2.13 or riding with low pressure. Be sure the inner tube valve is
mounted straight inside the rim and check tire pressure before
every ride.
LEAKY VALVE CORE

Schrader Valves may have loose cores inside valve stem. Test
the mounted tube and the tire at full pressure with soapy
water or saliva sealing the core. Inspect for bubbles appearing
at the core (figure 2.16). Presta valves may have a loose
locknut or loose valve core inside stem. Tighten valve cores
with a valve core tool such as the Park Tool VC-1.
FIGURE 2.16
Inner tube before inflation
FIGURE 2.14
Test valve for a leaky core
LARGE SHREDDED HOLE

Inner tube after inflation for inspection Tire blowouts are not repairable. Check tire and rim for
b. Inspect for air leaks. Slowly move the tube closely past seating problems. Also check for hole in the tire casing
sensitive skin such as the lips or cheeks. Small leaks can (figure 2.17).
also sometimes be heard. Check around the entire tube. FIGURE 2.17
If this does not work, then submerge the tube in water
and watch for bubbles at the hole.
c. If you plan to repair the inner tube, use a marking pen
to make four marks, one on each side of hole (figure
FIGURE 2.15
Shredded hole indicating blowout
HOLE ON THE RIM STRIP SIDE OF TUBE

Rim strip failure. Inspect inside of rim for protruding
spokes, sharp points, or lack of rim strip coverage over inner
Mark inner tube after location hole rim holes.
www.parktool.com 15
LONG CUT OR RIP FIGURE 2.20

Tire blowout. Inner tube is usually not repairable. Check tire
and rim for seating problems. Use care when seating the tire
during installation.
SINGLE PUNCTURE OR SMALL HOLE

Thorn, wire, glass. These holes may be repairable.
Check tire as well. The cause of the puncture may still be
embedded in the tire. Hole typically located against top of
tire casing.
DOUBLE SLITS
Rim pinch. Tube was pinched between the rim and an object
on the road or trail. Increase air pressure or use wider tires Failure at tire beads cannot be repaired
(figure 2.18). Inspect tire bead for damage. A broken or cut bead will not
FIGURE 2.18 permit the tire to hold to rim. Any exposed bead will require
tire replacement (figure 2.20).
Check for “tire rot,” or a deterioration of the tire casing.
Old and rotted tires are more susceptible to punctures and
blowouts from sidewall failure (figure 2.21). Even if the tire
has an adequate amount of tread, replace rotted tires.
FIGURE 2.21
Two parallel marks show the tube was pinched between rim and struck object
TIRE INSPECTION
It is important to always inspect the tire as well as the
inner tube. The cause of the flat, such as a nail or piece of
glass, may still be embedded in the tire or tread. Inspect both
the outside of the rubber tread and the inside of the casing. Cracks in tire casing from tire rot
Again, mark the tire near the valve core as a reference. FIGURE 2.22
Inspect for protruding nails, pieces of glass, thorns, or
other objects. Squeeze any cut to look inside for objects such
as slivers of glass. Use a seal pick, scribe, or pointed knife to
carefully pick out small pieces of glass or thorns lodged in the
tread. Visually inspect the inside of tire casing for nails, glass,
or debris. Wipe inside of casing with a rag and then carefully
feel inside with fingers. Proceed slowly as there may be sharp
objects still in the casing (figure 2.19).
FIGURE 2.19
Damaged sides will lead to failure under pressure

Inspect sidewall for rips, abrasions, holes, or damage to
casing (figure 2.22). Damage to the cords may only be seen
when the tire is fully inflated. Failed cords will show as bulges
and irregularities in tire shape.
The tires will eventually wear out from use and become
very thin at the tread. For tires ridden on pavement, look
for a flattening of the tire crown in the middle. For off-
road tires, the top knobs will become worn and rounded
Carefully feel inside the case with fingertips compared to knobs on the side. If the cord is showing or
16
FIGURE 2.23 PRE-GLUED PATCH REPAIR

The Park Tool GP-2 Super Patch Kit uses pre-glued patches.
This patch relies on the tube pressing against the tire to
seal the puncture. If the inner tube is too small relative to
the tire casing, the patch may become too stretched to hold
effectively. Double-check to be sure the inner tube is an
appropriate size for the tire when using a pre-glued patch.
Procedure for inner tube repair using Park Tool GP-2
pre-glued super patch:
a. Locate the hole marked during inspection. Using a fine
emery cloth or sandpaper, clean the tube by lightly
abrading the area around hole. Excessive sanding or
heavy pressure can cause grooves in the rubber leading
Damaged tread and casing to patch failure.
the casing appears deformed, the tire should be replaced b. If possible, clean the area with a rag and alcohol. Allow it
(figure 2.23). to dry completely.
c. Peel patch from patch backing. Handle patch as little as
RIM STRIP possible and by edges only (figure 2.25).
The wheel rim may have holes between the rim sidewalls FIGURE 2.25
for spoke nipples. The rim strip covers the holes or nipples. It
protects the inner tube from nipples and sharp edges in the
base of the rim. The rim strip can be made of cloth, rubber,
or polyurethane plastic. It should be wide enough to cover
the bottom of the rim but not so wide that it interferes with
seating the tire bead. Inspect the rim strip whenever changing
a tire or inner tube. Look for tears and rips. Make sure the rim
strip is centered over the nipple holes and completely covers
each hole (figure 2.24).
High-pressure tires require a strong rim strip. Without a
sturdy support, the inner tube will push down into the nipple
holes, resulting in a blowout. Do not use soft and flexible
rubber rim strips in rims with eyelet holes. Center patch over hole and press evenly to bond patch to tube
FIGURE 2.24 d. Center patch to hole and lay patch flat on tube.
e. Apply pressure for patch to seal. Roll patch and tube
between thumb and forefingers.
f. Tube is ready to install. Do not test patch by inflating
tube while outside of mounted tire. This may stretch
the tube body under the patch, which may weaken the
patch bond.
INNER TUBE REPAIR WITH

SELF-VULCANIZING PATCHES
Self-vulcanizing patches require the application of a thin
layer of self-vulcanizing fluid on the tube before the patch is
applied. The patch reacts with the fluid to bond with the
Holes in rim strip will cause flats inner tube, but inner tubes differ in their component
chemical compounds. Patching may result in mixed success.
INNER TUBE REPAIR Procedure for inner tube repair with self-vulcanizing patch:
Inner tubes are commonly made of black butyl rubber. a. Locate hole marked during inspection.
Latex inner tubes are lightweight and tend to be a cream or b. Using a fine emery cloth or sandpaper, lightly abrade
light gray color. The latex material is more porous than butyl area around hole. Abrade an area larger than patch size.
rubber and will require air before every ride. Both types can c. When possible, clean area with alcohol and allow it to
be patched. dry completely.
Replacing the punctured inner tube with a new tube is d. Open self-vulcanizing fluid tube and puncture seal.
always the safest and most reliable procedure. In some cases, Apply thin coat of self-vulcanizing fluid and spread
it’s safe to repair a small hole in an inner tube. If the hole is evenly around hole area (figure 2.26). Use a clean finger
large, such as from a blowout, it may not be possible to repair. or the back of patch to spread the self-vulcanizing fluid
When in doubt, replace the tube. evenly over an area that is larger than the size of the
www.parktool.com 17
FIGURE 2.26 INNER TUBE SEALANTS

Liquid sealants can be added to the inner tube. These
products are available from various manufacturers and are
only intended to seal small holes in the tube. To add sealant
to the inner tube, install the inner tube into wheel as normal.
For Schrader valves, remove the core using a valve core
remover. Only some Presta model tubes use a valve with a
removable core. Inspect the Presta valve for two wrench flats
below the stem locknut. To remove this valve core from the
Presta tube, use the Park Tool VC-1 Valve Core tool or a small
adjustable wrench (figure 2.29).
FIGURE 2.29
Spread a thin, wide layer of self-vulcanizing fluid
patch. Do not apply too much fluid. The layer should not
appear “glopped” on. Return and tighten glue tube cap.
e. Allow self-vulcanizing fluid to dry. This may take several
minutes. Test by touching the perimeter area of self-
vulcanizing fluid only. Do not touch self-vulcanizing
fluid where the patch will contact.
f. Peel patch from backing. Leave clear plastic cover on
patch. Handle patch by its edges.
g. Center patch to hole and lay on the tube.
h. Apply pressure to patch, especially at the edges, to seal.
If possible, maintain pressure for several minutes. Inspect end of Presta valve for wrench flats
i. Inspect edges of patch. Edges should lay flat and appear Place the valve at the four o’clock or eight o’clock position,
bonded to tube (figure 2.27 and figure 2.28). making the valve slightly downhill (figure 2.30). Inject the
j. Tube is ready to install. Do not remove plastic cover from sealant according to the manufacturer’s directions. Replace
patch. It could pull on the freshly-bonded patch, and the valve and inflate tire. Spin the wheel to spread the
cause the repair to fail. sealant. When inflating or deflating the tire, rotate the wheel
FIGURE 2.27 so the valve is on the upper horizontal section of the rim.
FIGURE 2.30
Edges of patch did not seal well in this poorly bonded patch
Rotate valve to allow sealant to easily enter the tube
FIGURE 2.28
Installing sealant will make patching the inner tube
difficult or impossible. The sealant tends to prevent good
patch bonding. The valve core can also become plugged and
sealed with time. Sealants can also plug a tire pump head
used to pump this tube. Avoid having the valve at the lower
section of tire when pumping.
TIRE LINERS
Tire liners are specially made strips of a tough, flexible
material placed inside the tire body. Liners are installed
between the tire and inner tube and may help prevent thorns,
glass, and other sharp objects from reaching the inner tube
Edges lay flat in a successful patch (figures 2.31). Liners should be installed centered on the tire
18
Tire liner placed inside tire body From left to right: a long stem Presta valve with cap, a standard length
Presta valve without cap, and a Schrader valve without cap
midline. Liners will not prevent pinch flats and do not protect
from sharp objects penetrating the sidewall area of the tire. To deflate the Schrader valve tube, it is necessary to stick
a small hex wrench or other object into the valve in order
TEMPORARY TIRE REPAIR WITH TIRE BOOT to press on the stem and release the air. Upon release of
If the tire has been ripped and the casing damaged, it may the stem, the valve spring shuts. Schrader-compatible pump
not hold an inner tube. It is possible, in some cases, to make fittings press on the internal stem with a small peg inside the
a temporary repair with a Park Tool TB-2 Emergency Tire Boot. pump head, which allows the tube to be filled.
A booted tire should not be considered a permanent repair. The Schrader valve core can be removed from the tube
The tire should be replaced as soon as possible. if necessary. The valve core may be loose and cause a slow
Begin repair by locating rip in tire. Compare rip to size leak, or it may become jammed with dirt and not open and
of tire boot. Tire boot must completely overlap the rip to close properly. Removing the valve core also permits sealant
be effective. Clean inside the tire adjacent to the rip. When to be injected inside. Use a valve core tool such as the Park
necessary, cut patch to fit inside the tire casing. Cut boot as Tool VC-1 Valve Core Remover to remove or tighten the core
large as possible but not so large it will stick out beyond tire (figure 2.34).
bead. Align the patch making sure the edges do not extend FIGURE 2.34
beyond the tire bed to the tire beads. Center the patch to the
rip and press it inside of the tire casing (figure 2.32).
It is possible to make a temporary boot using other material.
Use a strong material that is resistant to tearing. Paper
currency should not be considered acceptable tire boot material.
FIGURE 2.32
Schrader valve core removed for cleaning and inspection with Park Tool VC-1
The rim’s valve hole should match the valve of the tube. If
a rim has been made with the smaller valve hole for Presta
valves, it can be drilled and enlarged to the 8 mm size by
using an ¹¹⁄₃₂ inch (8.5 mm) hand drill. After drilling, use a
small round file to remove any sharp edges. Rims that are less
Place TB-2 Emergency Tire Boot over cut in tire than 15 mm outside width should not be drilled. It is also
and replace tire as soon as possible possible to use the smaller Presta valve in a rim intended for
the larger Schrader by using an adapter sleeve.
INNER TUBE VALVES The Presta or French-type valve is common on mid- and
There are two common types of valve stems on bicycles: higher-priced road bikes and on higher-priced mountain bikes.
Schrader and Presta (“French” type) (figure 2.33). The Presta stems are thinner than Schrader valves (6 mm diameter,
Schrader or American-type valve is common on cars and nominally ¼ inch). At the top of the Presta stem is a small valve
motorcycles. It is also found on many bicycles. The valve locknut, which must be unthreaded before air can enter the tube
stem is approximately 8 mm (⁵⁄₁₆ inch) in diameter and has (figure 2.35). To deflate the inner tube, unthread the locknut
an internal spring plunger (valve core) to assist in shutting and depress the valve stem. To inflate the tube, unthread the
the valve. locknut and inflate using a Presta-compatible pump.
www.parktool.com 19
Component parts of the Presta valve: (A) valve cap, (B) valve locknut, A Presta-to-Schrader valve adaptor
(C) valve stem lockring, (D) valve adaptor for Schrader rim
Inner tube valve stems are available in different lengths.
Some brands of Presta tubes use a valve shaft that is fully Rims with a very tall cross section require longer valve stems
threaded. These come with an extra locking nut or ring. (60 mm or 80 mm). There are valve extenders available that
Loosen the ring by hand and remove it before installing screw onto the Presta valve and allow the tube to be inflated
the tube. Install and fully inflate the tube. Then install the (figure 2.38). If the inner tube uses a removable valve core,
lockring and snug only by hand. When deflating the tube, use an extension that screws into the valve’s inner threads.
loosen and remove the nut first. When a tire is fully inflated There are also designs that are simply a tube to lengthen
and is then deflated, the valve moves back into the tire the stem but do not permit the Presta valve locking nut to
casing. The valve may be ripped from the tube if the locknut be secured. If the locking nut cannot be closed, the valve
is left locked too tightly to the rim. may leak. Extenders that do not allow the valve nut to be
Some models and brands of Presta inner tubes use a tightened may allow the tube to leak slowly.
removable valve core. Inspect the end of the valve for two
FIGURE 2.38
wrench flats. Use a valve core tool such as the Park Tool VC-1
or a small adjustable wrench to secure or remove the core
(figure 2.36).
FIGURE 2.36
Left: simple valve extender with lock nut loose

Right: removable valve core with double-threaded extender
TIRE & TUBE SIZING

A removable Presta valve and the VC-1 Tires are made with a steel wire or fabric cord, called the
Presta-compatible pump heads do not have a small peg inside “bead,” which is molded into each edge of the tire. The bead
the pump head. Also, the seal of a Presta pump head is smaller forms a circle. The diameter of this circle determines the tire
than the pump head of the Schrader pump. To inflate a Presta fit to the rim. The tire bead is made to fit into the rim bead
tube, unthread the valve stem locknut and tap lightly to release seat, which is the area below the outer rim edge (figure 2.39).
the valve seal. The seal tends to stick over time and tapping Do not attempt to mix tires and wheels with different bead
the stem breaks it free, which makes it easier to inflate. Press seat diameters. Although the bead seat diameter determines
the Presta-compatible pump head onto the stem and inflate the the tire and wheel fit, there is little consistency between
tube. Some pump heads may have a lever-operated cam to help manufacturers in how tires are labeled or identified. Different
seal the gap between the pump head and the valve. countries at times have used different nomenclature marking
There is no performance difference between the two kinds systems. This can cause confusion when selecting a tire for a
of valves. The Schrader valve, however, is wider and requires wheel and frustration when installing a tire.
a larger rubber base to bond it to the tube. Consequently, An antiquated but still common system uses “inch”
very narrow tubes use the Presta valve. A Presta-to-Schrader designations, such as 26-inch, 27-inch, or 29-inch. The inch
adapter is available, which allows Schrader pump heads to be size does not directly refer to the bead seat measurement.
used on Presta valves (figure 2.37). It is a simply code, and it refers to the approximate outside
20
FIGURE 2.39 shape will be less rounded. A wide tire on a narrow rim will
result in less support for the tire in cornering, which can
cause the tire to laterally roll or twist. Additionally, rim
caliper brakes will have very little room to clear the tire with
this combination. As a loose rule, the ISO tire width should
be between one and a half to two times ISO rim widths. A rim
width 25 mm between the sidewalls should use an ISO tire
width of about 37−50.
The inner tube should match the tire size diameter closely.
Tires that are close in bead diameter may use the same inner
tube. For example, an inner tube for an ISO 630 tire (27-inch)
will also fit an ISO 622 (700c) tire. The inner tube should also
match the tire width, but, because inner tubes are elastic,
Bead seat diameter of the rim and tire one inner tube may fit a range of tire widths. If the inner
diameter of an inflated tire. For example, there are several 26- tube is too narrow for the tire width, it will become very thin
inch tires that use different bead seat diameters. A 26 x 1⅜ when inflated inside the tire body. This will cause it to be
inch tire, for example, will not interchange with the common more susceptible to punctures and failures. If the tube is too
MTB 26 x 1.5 inch tire. There are three even more obscure tire wide for the tire, it will be difficult or impossible to properly
standards also referred to as 26-inch diameter, but none are fit inside the tire casing and seat in the rim. Part of the tube
interchangeable. As a rule, tires marked with fraction sizes, may stick out of the tire and blow out when the tire is fully
such as ½, ¾, etc., do not interchange with tires marked in inflated. Refer to Table 2.1 for common sizes for the tire and
decimal sizing, such as 0.5, 0.75, etc. wheel bead-seating systems.
Another common system is the older French system of sizing. TABLE 2.1 Tire Sizing
The numbers are reference numbers and are not accurate
ETRTO/ISO
measurements of anything. Road bicycles commonly use a 700c COMMON SIZING
BEAD SEAT COMMON USES
tire that has a bead diameter of 622 mm. The “700c” does NAME
DIAMETER
not refer to bead diameter. The “c” is part of the code system. MTB using the 29-inch tires. Rim is
There are also 700a and 700b tires and wheels, but none 29-inch 622
same diameter as 622 below.
interchange with the more common 700c. Additionally, the Older road bikes and less expensive
650b tires and wheels will not interchange with the 650c tires. 27-inch 630
road bikes
The ETRTO (European Tire and Rim Technical Organization)
700c 622 Road bikes, hybrid bikes
system, which is the same as the ISO system (International
Standards Organization) is now becoming more common. The 26 x 1⅜ inch S6 597 Older Schwinn S-6 sizing
ISO or ETRTO system uses two number designations for the 26 x 1⅜ inch 590
Department store three-speeds,
tire and rim sizing. The larger number is always the bead English three-speeds
seat diameter. Rims and tires with the same number are 650b or 27.5 inch 584
MTB and some touring
made to fit one another. For example, tires marked 622 will “randonneur” bikes
fit rims marked 622, because the bead seat diameter is 622 26 x 1−3.7 inch 559 MTB using 26-inch sizing
millimeters for both. Look for this sizing system on the tire. Smaller road bikes or special
26 x 1½ inch or 650c 571
Rims may also have ISO sizing on the label (figure 2.40). triathlete bikes
The rim marking may also provide a two number system. 24 x 1−1.75 inch 507 Juvenile MTB
The smaller number is the width in millimeters between rim
BMX racing and recumbent
sidewalls. Generally, a wider rim will accept a wider tire. A 20 x 1−1½ inch 451
(fractional inch widths)
narrow tire on a relatively wide rim will mean the tire profile
Juvenile bikes, BMX, freestyle
20 x 1−2.2 inch 406
FIGURE 2.40 bikes, recumbents
16 x 1⅜ inch 346 Front small wheel recumbent
16 x 1−2.2 inch 305 Some recumbents and juvenile bikes
INSTALLATION OF TIRE & TUBE ON WHEEL

Tires are sized to match the rim. However, even within
the same rim and tire sizing standard, certain tire/rim
manufacturer combinations are more easily mounted by hand
than others. Companies may not hold the same tolerances,
and the result may be that some combinations will be tight
and may be difficult to mount by hand. These combinations
require tire levers for installation. Never use a screwdriver,
ISO (ETRTO) sizing numbers on tire label along with French sizing knife, or other sharp tool to mount the tire.
www.parktool.com 21
Procedure for tire installation: g. Work tire bead onto rim with hands. If tire head will not
a. Note any directional arrows of the tire manufacturer. seat using hands, use a tire lever as a last resort. Use
Directional arrows printed on the sidewalls indicate caution when using tire levers to avoid pinching inner
rotation of wheel. Not all tires have direction orientation. tube. Use tire lever in same orientation as removal method.
b. Inflate tube enough for tube to hold its shape. h. Work tube over rim sidewall and into rim cavity.
c. Install tube inside tire. Install with tube valve adjacent i. Install second bead onto rim (figure 2.43). Use care if
to air pressure recommendations written on tire sidewall using a tire lever. Do not lift lever beyond 90-degrees
(figure 2.41). from the wheel plane (figure 2.44).
Place tube into tire before mounting tire to rim Use levers if necessary to lift bead over edge of rim
d. Lean rim vertically against your legs with the valve hole j. Inspect both sides of tire for bead seating and for any
facing up. sign of the inner tube sticking out. If the tube is visible
e. Lower tire and valve into rim valve hole and align valve under the tire bead, remove the tire and reinstall.
so it is pointing straight toward hub. A crooked valve can k. Inflate to low pressure and inspect the bead again on both
lead to a flat tire later (figure 2.42). sides. Look for a small molding line above the bead. This
f. Install one bead at a time, beginning with the one adjacent line should run consistently above the rim (figure 2.45).
to your legs. Center of rim is slightly smaller in diameter, l. Inflate to full pressure and check with a pressure gauge.
so work head toward center to make it easier to get on rim. It may be necessary to press downward above the valve in
FIGURE 2.42 order to engage the pump head. For fully threaded valve
shafts, reinstall any locking nut only lightly finger tight.
FIGURE 2.45
This crooked valve will eventually be cut by the rim valve hole
FIGURE 2.43
This bead seat line is bulging upwards from improper tire seating.
Deflate immediately and reseat tire.
WHEEL INSTALLATION
The wheels must be properly mounted to the bicycle frame.
Misalignment can result in problems with shifting, brake pad
alignment, and bike handling. If the wheel is not securely
mounted in the dropouts, it may come out and possibly injure
the rider. Wheels may be held to the bike with a quick-release
system, axle nuts, or a “through-axle” system.
The quick-release shaft is fitted with two conically shaped
springs. The small end of the spring faces the axle, and the
Push tire bead up and over rim sidewalls large end faces outward away from the hub. These springs
22
Common quick-release hub with (A) Lever, (B) Adjusting nut, Closed skewer lever should be parallel to center plane of bike
(C) Centering springs
FIGURE 2.50
make the wheel easier to install. If one or both springs
become twisted or damaged they can be removed. The
springs serve no purpose once the wheel is tight on the bike
(figure 2.46).
The quick-release skewer uses a cam device to hold the
wheel securely to the frame dropouts. It is important that
the skewer be fully and consistently tightened before each
ride. This is also important for the pressure applied to the hub
bearings. For most brands of skewers, hold lever parallel to
the hub axle, which is halfway through its swing from fully
open to fully closed (figures 2.47, 2.48, and 2.49). Tighten
adjusting nut snug against the dropout. Check results by
moving the lever. Lever should meet resistance to closing (A) Lever not fully closed; (B) Position for lever in fully closed position
halfway through the swing. Lubricate the cam mechanism if it The cam mechanism is designed to lock when the lever is
appears sticky or dry. parallel to the center plane of the bike. Inspect section of
FIGURE 2.47 lever adjacent to the cam. If the lever arm is not fully closed,
the wheel is not properly secured (figure 2.50). Double-check
the skewer adjusting nut and the pressure on the lever.
The ends of the axle of the quick-release hub must sit
inside the dropouts in order for the quick-release to secure
tightly against the frame or fork. If the axle is too long for
the bike’s dropout spacing, it will not permit the wheel to be
properly secure. If you have borrowed a wheel, check that the
axle ends sit inside the dropout face.
Quick-release skewers come in two basic designs, the “open
cam” and the “closed cam” (figure 2.51). In the open cam, the
cam mechanism and pressure points are visible and exposed
to dirt and grime. Setting lever resistance at halfway through
Quick-release lever in fully open position
swing may be too tight for some models. However, these
Adjust nut for lever resistance half way through swing Open cam style seen on the top, and closed cam seen on the bottom
www.parktool.com 23
skewers should still close with force. The open cam model FIGURE 2.54
should be lubricated to work effectively. Consult specific
manufacturer for recommended pressure of closing. The closed
cams should also be lubricated, but the working parts are
better shielded from dirt and grime.
Procedure for wheel installation in open-dropout
fork or frame:
a. Open brake quick-release mechanism for rim caliper
brakes only.
b. Move wheel quick-release skewer to open position.
c. Install between dropouts with quick-release skewer lever
on non-drive side.
Front: Guide rim or disc rotor between brake pads.
Pull hub up fully into dropout.
Rear: Check that rear derailleur is in most outboard
position. Pull rear derailleur back to open chain
(figure 2.52). Place cogs between upper and lower
sections of chain and engage chain on smallest cog. Skewer orientation must allow lever to be fully closed,
Guide rim or disc rotor between brake pads. Guide even with wide fork ends
axle up and fully into dropouts. Pull up and/or back f. Front: Rotate lever and adjusting nut so lever is just
depending upon dropout style. It may be necessary to in front of fork when firmly and fully closed (figures
flex dropouts open to get wheel in. 2.53 and 2.54). However, with some dropout designs or
FIGURE 2.52 suspension forks, it will be necessary to use an alternate
position if lever will not fully close.
Rear: Orient skewer so lever will end up between the
seat stay and chain stay, unless this prevents lever
from fully closing (figure 2.55). This position provides
leverage of the stays for closing and opening.
FIGURE 2.55
Pivot derailleur back to clear wheel and cogs

d. Adjust closing tension of quick-release skewer and close
the lever.
Front: Wheel should be centered between fork blades.
If necessary, open skewer, move wheel either left or
right until wheel appears centered, then close skewer.
The quick-release skewer cam and adjusting nut must Align lever between chain and seat stays
be fully engaged on the dropout surfaces. g. Close rim caliper brake quick-release mechanism (if any).
e. Determine final closing position of quick-release lever. h. Inspect brake pad alignment and centering by closing
FIGURE 2.53 and opening pads with brake lever. Spin wheel and
check pad alignment to rim (disc). If brake pads are
not centered, see Chapter 11, Caliper Disc Brakes,
or Chapter 12, Caliper Rim Brakes. If wheel fails to
adequately center in frame, either the frame or wheel
may be misaligned.
View centering of wheel between chain stays and seat stays.
Open skewer and adjust as necessary to center wheel in frame.
If rim brake pads are not centered to wheel, see Chapter 12,
Caliper Rim Brakes. If further attempts to align the wheel fail
to adequately center it in frame, either the frame or wheel
may be misaligned. Seek professional help.
If it is difficult to maneuver the wheel into the dropouts,
Place lever just in front of fork blade when possible install the front wheel when the bike is standing on the
24
ground. By placing the bike on the ground, the axle will seat FIGURE 2.58
fully up in the dropouts.
FRONT WHEELS WITH DISC BRAKES

Bikes using disc brake calipers and rotors follow the basic
process as described above. The rotor should be placed between
the pads of the caliper as it is installed. Use care not to
displace the brake pads when installing the wheel (figure 2.56).
Front wheels using a disc brake must always be fully and
properly secured. The caliper disc brake applies a load to the
disc rotor, which applies a pulling force on the hub in the
dropout. This force tends to pull on the wheel in a direction
to remove it from the fork. If the wheel is poorly mounted, it
may result in the wheel coming out of the fork during use. 20 mm thru-axle fork and hub
Guide rotor between caliper disc brake pads The maxle quick-release system
system to secure the axle, or a quick-release type system
SOLID AXLE TYPES (maxle) that requires no tools (figure 2.59).
For non-quick-release wheels with axle nuts, washers go on Quick-release thru-axle systems are similar to conventional
the outside of the dropouts (figure 2.57). Secure axle nuts systems in that they use a cam system. The axle has threading
fully and then double-check alignment. Front wheels may use on one side and is fit through the dropout and through the
a special washer that acts as a wheel retention redundancy. hub. A lever system rotates the axle and threads, snugging it
FIGURE 2.57 in the dropout. The axle is then held secure by the cam. The
cam (or in some brands a double cam) is adjusted so there
is resistance approximately halfway through the swing from
open to closed.
There are two standards for front fork thru-axles. There is a
15 mm diameter with 100 mm spacing, and a 20 mm diameter
with 110 mm spacing.
Thru-axle systems are also made for the rear hub. These use
a 12 mm diameter axle, and can come in widths of 135, 142,
150, 157, and 160 mm. There are both simple straight axles
FIGURE 2.60
Solid axle and horizontal dropout
THRU-AXLE SYSTEMS
The thru-axle system uses a hub design that allows the
axle to be pulled from the hub. This allows the wheel to
be installed into a frame or fork design with ends that
are completely enclosed, providing a very rigid and secure
interface (figure 2.58).
The axle and frame will locate the wheel in the frame. There
is no room to move the wheel to center it in the bike as with
open dropout systems. These systems may use a pinch bolt Maxle system in a rear thru-axle bike
www.parktool.com 25
that secure by threading and a pinch slot in the dropout, and a special butyl liner to hold air without an inner tube, and
maxle systems that use a quick-release lever (figure 2.60). will have a specially shaped tire bead. The UST rims will have
There are also hubs popularized by DT Swiss® that use a either no nipple holes in the rim tire bed, or these holes will
thru-axle design for open dropout bikes. The rear thru-axle be completely sealed. The UST rim bead seat is designed to
is 10 mm diameter to fit into rear open dropouts. The front accept and hold the beads of the UST tires. UST tires can be
thru-axle is 9 mm to fit into open dropout forks. The axles used on a UST rim without tire sealants.
come out of the hub completely, like any thru-axle hub. This To remove tubeless tires, begin by fully deflating the tire.
system is designed to stiffen the hub when it is mounted in Push only one tire bead into the center well of the rim all
the frame or fork. However, these hubs will work in frames around the wheel to free it from the rim. On some tire/rim
that traditional quick-release hubs fit. The lever at the end of combinations, it is possible to pull the bead off the rim without
the skewer acts as a wrench to loosen or tighten the wheel in tire levers once it is sitting on the center part of the rim,
place (figure 2.61). The lever does not operate as a cam, like which has a smaller circumference than the bead seats. If tire
the traditional quick-release lever. Turn the lever counter- levers are necessary, then take care to use only plastic levers.
clockwise to loosen and clockwise to tighten. Pull back on the Pull the loose bead over the rim edge. Push the second bead
lever to disengage the lever from the skewer to position the from the tire seat and then pull the whole tire from the rim.
lever end as necessary after tightening. Tubeless systems may use either a special Presta or Schrader
FIGURE 2.61 valve secured into the rim and held in place by a nut (figure
2.62). The valve is an airtight fit to the rim.
FIGURE 2.62
Open dropout with a 10 mm thru-axle hub system
TUBELESS SYSTEMS Tubeless valve system

Tubeless tire systems are similar to those used on cars Procedure for tubeless tire installation:
and motorcycles. The tire is sealed airtight to the rim bead a. Check that valve is fully seated inside of the rim and valve
without an internal inner tube. The rim inner perimeter must nut is secure. Clean the tire bead and rim seat as needed.
also be airtight. Tubeless tires can increase the contact area b. Insert one bead over the rim wall and into the center
of the tire to the ground because they can be ridden at low of the rim. The first bead must be fully installed before
relative air pressure, which can improve the ride feel and inserting the second bead over the rim.
handling of MTB bikes and cyclocross bikes. The tubeless c. Special tubeless tire seating compounds can be useful to
system is also available in a road bike version. The road bike help bead seat properly and seal to the rim. Soapy water
tubeless system can reduce rolling resistance because there is on the bead of the tire can also help (figure 2.63).
no movement between an inner tube and tire. d. Inflation is best done with an air compressor. This
A common cause of flat tires (especially in off-road riding) provides large amounts of air to quickly force the bead
is a “rim pinch.” The inner tube is pinched when the tire to the rim, creating a seal. If no compressor is available,
strikes a rock or other object. Tubeless tire systems have no FIGURE 2.63
inner tube to pinch when used at low pressures and are not
susceptible to this common flat.
Tubeless tires are still prone to punctures from nails, glass,
thorns, etc. Additionally, the system is liable to leak if the
tire head or rim seat has become damaged or disengages.
Hard lateral impacts to the tire can result in a “burp” in the
system. This is where the head is momentarily pushed away
and disengages from the rim sidewall, allowing air to escape.
This reduces air pressure and weakens the tire bead to rim
strength, making the wheel and tire susceptible to more burps
until the tire is reinflated.
The Universal System Tubeless (UST) is a rim and tire design
standard for bicycle tubeless systems. A UST tire will have Soapy water can help the bead seat into the rim
26
quickly pump to form a seal. It’s helpful to have a FIGURE 2.65

friend assist by holding the tire centered to the rim
during inflation.
e. Over inflate the tire if the bead is not fully seated. Bead
will often seat with a popping sound. Inspect for bead
leaks using soapy water at the bead and look for any
bubbles. Deflate and reseat as necessary.
f. Allow tire to sit for some hours and check that there are
no slow leaks. Set tire to desired riding pressure.
The un-inflated tubeless tire relies on high air volume to
push the tire bead to rim and create a seal. This is why an air
compressor is so useful when installing the tire. If it does not
seem possible to seat the bead well enough to inflate the tire,
attempt to use a long strap to help seat the tire. Place the Hang wheel with tire in place
strap around the circumference of the tire. Tighten the strap to FIGURE 2.66
help hold the bead to the rim and inflate the tire (figure 2.64).
This helps the bead hold to the rim while tire is inflated.
FIGURE 2.64
Work bead onto rim

e. Remove the wheel from the hanger and inflate tire and
seat bead.
Use a strap to apply even pressure on tires that are difficult to inflate f. Inflate wheel to full a pressure and inspect seating. Spin
The tubeless system is best patched by removing it from the wheel to distribute fluid.
rim. The inner surface of the tire is butyl rubber and similar There are both tire and rim manufacturers that state not to
to an inner tube. Locate the hole and clean an area inside the use any sealants inside their product. The rim material may
tire body. Use a self-vulcanizing patch with similar procedure corrode or the tire lining may be damaged. Consult rim and
as described for the inner tube repair. If tire sealant was run tire manufacturers for their statements.
inside the tire, the patch will not work well. If necessary,
install an inner tube inside the tubeless tire until a new TUBELESS CONVERSION SYSTEMS
tubeless tire can be mounted. Manufacturers offer conversion kits for using a traditional
Liquid sealants for tubeless tires are available from various inner tube compatible rim with “tubeless ready” tires. There will
manufacturers and are intended to seal small holes in the be mixed results with these systems depending upon the rim and
tire. These are best applied to the tire before mounting. the application of the kit. For the best results from a tubeless
All tubeless systems are susceptible to air loss, more tire system, use both tires and wheels designated as UST.
than conventional inner tube systems. All tubeless tire The conversion kits available on the market share
manufactures assume that tires are checked for pressure commonalities. There will be a strong, heavy duty sealing
before each use. tape to install into the rim. There will be a valve core that
Procedure for tubeless tire sealant installation: tightens into the rim and which must seal into the tape.
a. Install one tire bead on the wheel. Sealing liquids are installed to plug small leaks in the rim-to-
b. Hang the wheel vertically with valve at either the three tire interface and in the tire casing itself. Conversion systems
or the nine o’clock position (figure 2.65). If the bike is are susceptible to air loss through several points in the
mounted in a repair stand, the handlebar ends can be system, including seepage of air through the sidewalls.
used as a hanger. Procedure for tubeless tire conversion:
c. Pour sealant into the tire at the six o’clock position. a. Remove old tire, tube, and the rim strip. Inspect inside
Consult the sealant manufacturer’s instructions for wheel for dents in the rim bead or other anomalies. Also
amount of sealant to pour. inspect for burrs in the aluminum bed or nipple eyelets,
d. Leave the tire and wheel hanging. Carefully engage the and make sure the rim has a smooth finish.
second bead while working from the bottom upward on b. Clean inside the rim wheel well using acetone, alcohol, or
both sides (figure 2.66). similar solvent that will not leave an oily film.
www.parktool.com 27
Install rim sealing tape directly over valve hole Inject sealant after tire bead was seated
c. Install conversion rim sealing tape in rim bed, pulling When the tire valve is removable core, it can be very
tape snugly as the tape unrolls to cover the entire bed practical to inject tire sealants through the valve (figure
inside the wheel circumference (figure 2.67). Overlap 2.69). This requires use of a large syringe or similar tool. These
tape, covering valve hole. Work with care to cover rim can often be purchased at veterinarian supply stores, farm
evenly with no loose area of tape. Press down on tape to supply stores, and pet stores. Install and inflate tire without
ensure a good bond to the rim. Tape must seal the inner sealant. Hang wheel from hook to prevent dislodging of tire
perimeter airtight. bead. Remove valve core. Fill syringe with quantity of fluid
d. Use a pointed sharp object to make a hole in the tape at recommended by sealant manufactures. Reinstall valve core
the rim valve hole. Carefully puncture a hole. Do not tear and inflate tire. Spin wheel to spread and disperse sealant.
or shred the tape at the valve hole. It can be very helpful in getting the bead to seat and hold
e. Install tubeless tire valve and align in rim (figure 2.68). to use a mixture of dish soap and water. Even using straight
Secure with nut fully tightened by hand. Do not use liquid soap without dilution will help block air and permit
pliers to tighten nut. the bead to catch the rim. After the bead holds and the tire
FIGURE 2.68 inflates, bubbles will show any potential weak points in the
tire to rim seating.
It is not uncommon for “tubeless ready” or non-UST
tire casings to be porous enough to allow air to escape
directly through the sidewalls. This considered “normal”
by some manufacturers as long as it does not escape at an
unacceptable rate. This seepage can be seen when soapy water
is applied to the sidewalls. Bubbles will appear from this air
seepage along the sidewall (figure 2.70). The design of non-
UST systems is that the tire sealant will eventually seal this
area. Other than using a different model of tire, there is no
other solution. Hold the wheel horizontal and spin to spread
the fluid inside the sidewall areas.
Secure tubeless valve through rim sealing tape FIGURE 2.70
f. Install tire and sealant as described above in “Procedure
for tubeless tire sealant installation.”
g. Inflate tire immediately. Begin with low pressure and
inspect tire seating. Continue to fully inflate tire.
h. Spin wheel to spread sealant inside tire. Next, place
wheel horizontally on a bench and spin to work sealant
into tire-bead interface. Flip wheel to other side and
repeat spinning. Check tire in a few hours and repeat
spinning to spread sealant.
Because these tubeless conversion kits are commonly used
on non-UST rims, it can sometimes be difficult to get a tire
successfully mounted. The bead seat of the rim may be too
deep to push upward on the tire bead. If a tire will not seat, Bubbles showing air seepage through tire sidewalls
it can be helpful to remove the tire and build up the rim tape
inside the rim. Install extra tape directly over the conversion TUBULAR TIRES
kit sealing tape. Use one or two rounds of an electrician’s tape A tubular tire uses casing that is sewn around an enclosed
or a duct tape. Reinstall tire and attempt to inflate. inner tube. The complete tire unit is then glued to a special
28
“tubular” rim. Tubular tire systems are available in various FIGURE 2.72
sizes including both road and off-road cyclocross and MTB
racing versions. The gluing process is very important to the
performance and safety of the wheels. A poorly bonded tire
may roll off of the rim during use and cause the rider to fall.
The tubular rim does not have the sidewalls that act as the
bead seat of the clincher rim. Tubular rims have a concave
radius surface to accept the tubular tire. Tubular tires do not
interchange with clincher rim systems.
Like any bonding or gluing process, surface preparation is
important. The tubular rim surface should be cleaned with
a strong solvent, such as acetone, that does not leave an
oily film. Use proper hand protection and work with good air
ventilation. If using a typical 25 g tube of adhesive glue, Base coat rim with thin even coats
it will take one tube per wheel for rims without a previous e. Apply one last coat to the rim before mounting. Do not
base coat. allow this coat to dry. Mount the tire immediately after
Because the tire can be difficult to stretch on to the rim, finishing this last coat.
it is best to begin by mounting the unglued tire on the clean f. Deflate the tire, but leave enough air inside to hold the
rim. Inflate the tire fully to allow it to stretch for several tire body shape to aid installation.
hours. If no clean tubular rim is available for stretching, use a g. Place the rim vertically on a clean surface. Do not mount
clincher wheel of ETRTO 622 (700c). on grass, carpet, etc. Any contamination of the rim glue
Caution: will weaken the bond.
h. Place and align the valve inside the rim valve hole. Using
The tubular tire system, even when one hand, press down firmly on tire at stem. Grab the
mounted properly, is still susceptible to tire body with other hand and pull with force to the side,
failure during use. Every precaution should laying the tire in the glue bed. Work the hand at the
be taken when bonding the tubular to the valve in the opposite directing pulling with force and
rim. At this time there are no industry stretching the tire as you work the base tape into the rim
standards for tubular mounting. glue bed. Continue to apply pressure as you work down
to the bottom of the wheel (figure 2.73).
FIGURE 2.73
Procedure for tubular tire mounting:
a. Clean the rim tire seat using a solvent such as acetone.
b. Inflate the tire fully. This will roll the base outward and
make it easier to apply the base coat.
c. Using a brush, apply a thin coat to the tire’s base strip.
Cover the strip side to side with an even coat. Allow this
coat to completely dry. This will make handling the tire
less messy when mounting (figure 2.71).
FIGURE 2.71
Stretch tire as it is mounted
FIGURE 2.74
Inflate tire and apply a single base coat

d. Apply a thin coat to the rim surface. Allow this coat to
completely dry. Ideally allow this to dry for 12 hours. The
solvent from the glue needs to evaporate. For new rims
with no base coat, apply at least three to four base coats
allowing 10−12 hours between coats (figure 2.72). Push tire up onto rim
www.parktool.com 29
i. The last section of tire is the most difficult to mount. when possible and follow stripper directions. Follow cleaning
Use thumbs to push tire up and onto rim (figure 2.74). with stripper wash and then a soap and water wash.
j. Mount wheel in bike or in truing stand and spin wheel. It is impractical to fully inspect the mounting of a tubular
Inspect top tread of tire relative to rim. Grab sections without partially removing it. Roll the tire back away from
of tire that appear to wobble, and push and twist the the rim to inspect the glue at the rim/tire interface (figure
tire straight (figure 2.75). Better quality tires will align, 2.76). If popping and cracking is heard, it is an indication the
while lesser quality tires may not have been initially bond is old or there was an inadequate amount of glue in the
made straight and may not run perfectly true. bond. The tire would be suspect and liable to roll off the rim.
FIGURE 2.75 Re-glue tires failing this test.
FIGURE 2.76
Roll tire on rim to center and true

k. Inflate the tire fully to press it into rim bed. Allow tire A poorly bonded tire with inadequate glue at interface of rim and tire
to sit at least 24 hours before use. Tubular glues are There is no on-the-ride repair for a flat tubular; it must be
typically contact cements that require drying. Strength changed for a spare. It may be necessary to use a tire lever to
will improve with drying time. work under the tire and free it from the rim. Work the lever
It is possible to mount tubular tires on rims that have a back and forth to free the tire from the glue bond. Use care
previous bed of glue. Safe mounting will always require at least not to contaminate the glue surface of the rim with dirt.
one coat of fresh glue, but additional thin base coats may be Install the spare, center it as best possible to the rim and
required if the base coat is thin or provides inconsistent cover. inflate fully. Note: The tire bond to the rim is compromised
Old glue bases or dirty glue bases should be cleaned off the for the spare tubular, so ride with caution. Avoid excessive
rim. For aluminum or carbon fiber rims, it is possible to use speed especially in tight corners where there can be a lateral
heavy-bodied paint removers. Use a biodegradable remover load. Properly re-glue the tire as soon as possible.
30
3 Rear sprockets
Rear sprockets
CHAPTER 3 REAR SPROCKETS
T he rear sprockets are the gears mounted to the drive

wheel of the bike, usually the rear wheel. Also referred
to as cogs, the sprocket teeth mesh with the chain and
drive the wheel and the bike forward. The sprockets will wear
with use and must be replaced eventually. Sprockets are also
Sprockets secure to the freehub body with a lockring (figure
3.2). When the sprockets are removed, the ratcheting freehub
remains on the hub body. Most modern derailleur bicycles
use the freehub system. The cassette system is used by some
single-speeds as well as 6-, 7-, 8-, 9-, 10-, and 11-speed rear
removed in order to service the axle bearings. sprocket systems. The spacing between cogs tends to get
The clutch or ratchet systems used on derailleur and some narrower with more and more sprockets added to the cassette
single-speed bikes allow the rider to coast. The sprockets system. Freehubs designed for more cogs can accept cassettes
spin relative to the hub when the rider stops pedaling but with few cogs if the appropriate spacers are used. However,
lock and drive the rear wheel when the pedals and chain you cannot add more cassette cogs than the freehub was
are turned forward. Bearings fitted in the sprocket system designed to accept.
allow the gears to turn freely. It is common and normal to An alternative system to the cassette and freehub is the
have a slight amount of play between the inner and outer “freewheel.” Freewheels thread on and off a large machined
parts of the sprocket bearing system. Additionally, when the thread on the hub (figure 3.3). The modern thread standard
wheel turns during coasting, the rear sprockets may appear for freewheels is 1.37 in. x 24 tpi. The sprockets with the
to wobble slightly side to side. This is also common and not ratcheting mechanism can be removed from the hub, cleaned,
usually a problem because when the bike is pedaled, the and reinstalled as a unit. Freewheels are available with single
inner and outer parts lock together as they drive to eliminate or multiple cogs up to nine speeds.
the wobble. FIGURE 3.3
Rear sprockets on multi-speed bikes are attached to the
hub in one of two ways. Bikes may use a “freehub,” which
is a ratchet system mounted to the body of the hub (figure
3.1). This cylindrical mechanism acts as a clutch that
ratchets for coasting and locks for driving the bike when
pedaling. The freehub body has a series of splines on the
outer shell. “Cassette” sprockets, also called the “cassette
stack,” mate to these splines. The pattern, spacing, size, and
width of the freehub and cassette splines may vary between
component manufacturers, making some brands and models
non-interchangeable.
FIGURE 3.1
Rear hub threaded for freewheel
CASSETTE SPROCKET REMOVAL

& INSTALLATION
Cassette cogs are held on the freehub by a lockring sitting
outward from the smallest sprocket. Pressure from the
lockring prevents the sprockets from moving side to side
on the freehub and also helps prevent the sprockets from
damaging the freehub body by rotation. These rings are often
marked with the word “LOCK” and an arrow on the lockring
indicating direction to turn for locking.
There are two non-interchangeable lockring tool
Cassette sprockets on the left with freehub body on the right standards. Cassette systems by Shimano®, SRAM®,
Lockring holding cassette sprockets secure to freehub body Cassette lockring for Shimano® and similar brands
34
REAR SPROCKETS CHAPTER 3
FIGURE 3.5 not affect the cog spacing. However, always note orientation
of spacers when taking off a cassette. Note any spacers behind
the cassette. These are used as corrective spacing by some
manufacturers or to convert the freehub to use fewer cogs
then it was designed for.
Procedure for cassette sprocket removal:
a. Mount bike in repair stand and remove rear wheel.
b. Remove quick-release skewer, or axle nut of solid axle.
c. Inspect cassette and select correct type of cassette
lockring remover.
d. Engage remover onto splines of lockring.
e. Install quick-release skewer (or axle nut) and install
skewer nut on outside of remover. Note: For FR-5G, the
Park Tool FR-5 cassette lockring remover guide pin takes the place of the skewer. Install the FR-5G
Chris King®, Sun Race®, American Classic®, and others into the axle without skewer.
require a lockring tool with 12 splines. The tool fitting f. Snug skewer nut against remover (figure 3.8). Skewer
is approximately 23.5 mm diameter (figure 3.4). Use the acts as a holding device for remover.
Park Tool FR-5 (figure 3.5). Another option is the Park Tool FIGURE 3.8
FR-5G, with built-in guide pin. The pin helps keep the tool
from twisting in the lockring.
Campagnolo® cassettes also require a lockring tool with 12
splines. However, the tool fitting is approximately 22.8 mm in
diameter (figure 3.6). Use the Park Tool BBT-5/FR-11 (figure
3.7). Although the both the FR-5 and BBT-5/FR-11 lockring
removers look similar, the two are not interchangeable.
Cassette cogs are separated on the freehub by spacers.
Cassette manufacturers may design spacers into the cogs, or
the spacers can be pinned between cogs. The spacer may also
simply be loose. Generally the spacers are the same within a
cassette system, and if the order of spacers is mixed, it will
Use skewer and nut to hold tool firmly to lockring
FIGURE 3.6
FIGURE 3.9
Campagnolo® cassette lockring

Loosen lockring while holding cassette sprockets
FIGURE 3.7
g. Hold sprockets from rotating in the counter-clockwise
direction with chain whip tool. Turn remover counter-
clockwise with a large adjustable wrench, the hex end
of another Park Tool Sprocket Removing Chain Whip
Tool SR-1, or the Park Tool Freewheel Wrench FRW-1
(figure 3.9). It should require some force to remove the
lockring. Expect to hear a clicking sound from the teeth
on the lockring.
h. Turn remover only one full revolution counter-
clockwise. Loosen and remove skewer before continuing
to remove lockring.
i. Continue to hold sprockets and turn remover counter-
Park Tool BBT-5/FR-11 cassette lockring tool for Campagnolo® lockrings clockwise until lockring is unthreaded from freehub body.
www.parktool.com 35
j. Remove lockring and sprockets. Note orientation of FIGURE 3.12

spacers behind sprockets. Spacers should be replaced in
same order as removed.
The chain-whip tool is not required to install the cassette
sprockets and lockring. The cassette ratcheting mechanism will
hold the freehub body and keep the sprockets from rotating
in the direction the lockring tightens. Hold wheel firmly as
cassette lockring is tightened. For corrosion protection, grease
or anti-seize may be smeared on the freehub body.
Procedure for cassette sprocket installation:
a. Inspect splines of freehub body. Look for a wide space
between splines.
b. Inspect internal splines of sprockets. Look for a wide spline
to mate with wide space on freehub body (figure 3.10). SRAM® XX1 cassette with special freehub body
FIGURE 3.10 lockring. The lockring is nearly the width of the cassette and
engages splines’ threads on the freehub adjacent to the spokes.
Begin installation of the SRAM® XX1 by first greasing the
threads. Slide the cassette over the freehub body and engage
the splines. The splines are symmetrical and any orientation
will work. Use the FR-5 to thread the system lockring to the
freehub. Secure fully as any other type of cassette stack.
Removal of the SRAM® XX1 is the same as other systems.
Use a chain whip to hold the cassette stack and keep it from
from turning. Engage the FR-5 into the lockring and turn
counter-clockwise until the threads are disengaged. Pull
cassette from freehub.
Align the wide spline inside sprocket with wide space on freehub body. FREEWHEEL SPROCKET
c. Align splines and engage all sprockets and spacers. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
d. Grease threads of lockring and thread lockring into Freewheels are made of two assemblies. The outer body
freehub body. with the cogs will rotate freely counter-clockwise to allow for
e. Insert cassette lockring tool into splines of lockring. coasting. The inner body contains the threads that secure to
Install quick-release skewer and thread skewer nut on the hub. The inner body should have either recessed notches
outside of lockring tool. or splines in the body to fit the removal tool, usually recessed
f. Snug skewer nut against remover. Skewer acts as a inside the smallest sprocket. There have been numerous
holding device for remover. brands and models of freewheels through the years, and some
g. Turn cassette lockring tool clockwise until lockring is may not have any tool available.
fully tight (figure 3.11). Tech Note:
The SRAM® XX1 system is an 11 cassette system. For the XX1, Some brands use fittings that are now obsolete
SRAM® uses a proprietary freehub body and cassette design or are simply unusable. These freewheels must
(figure 3.12). The cassette will not fit on the freehub bodies be destroyed to be removed from the wheel.
that use the traditional lockring at the end of the freehub. The freewheel cone is removed clockwise. The
The sprockets are not individually removable from the cassette bearings, pawls, and outer freewheel body are
stack. The cassette uses the Park Tool FR-5 remover on the removed, and the inner body is grabbed in a
vise and turned counter-clockwise for removal.
FIGURE 3.11 A new freewheel is then installed.
To remove freewheels, begin by determining type or brand

of freewheel and the removal tool required. The removal tool
must fit the part correctly, or both may become damaged. To
determine the type or brand of freewheel, remove the wheel
from the bike and look at the flat surfaces of freewheel near
the axle for a brand name. See Table 3.1 for the matching
freewheel tool.
Procedure for freewheel removal:
a. Mount bike in a repair stand and remove rear wheel.
b. Remove quick-release skewer or drive side axle nut.
Tighten lockring clockwise c. Inspect freewheel center and select correct type of remover.
36
TABLE 3.1 Freewheel Removal Tools

FREEWHEEL BRAND FREEWHEEL FITTING APPROPRIATE TOOL TOOL & DESCRIPTION
Park Tool FR-1

Shimano®, Sun Race®, and Sachs® 12 splines
23 mm approx. diameter
Park Tool FR-2

Suntour® two-notched 2 notches
25 mm across
Park Tool FR-3

Suntour® four-notched 4 notches
24 mm across
Park Tool PR-4

Atom®, Regina®, some “Schwinn® approved” 20 splines
21.6 mm approx. diameter
Park Tool FR-6

Single speed, BMX 4 notches
40 mm across
Park Tool FR-7

12 splines
Falcon®
23 mm approx. diameter
(slightly larger than FR-1)
Park Tool FR-8

Compact single speed (30 mm thread, “flip-flop hub”) 4 notches
32 mm across
d. Engage remover onto splined notches of freewheel. g. Turn the remover counter-clockwise using a large
e. Install quick-release skewer. The skewer nut should be on adjustable wrench (figure 3.13). Park Tool removers
the outside of the remover. will also fit the hex end of the Park Tool SR-1 Sprocket
f. Snug skewer nut or axle nut against the remover. Nut Chain Whip Tool or the Park Tool FRW-1 Freewheel
acts as a holding device for the remover. Removal Wrench. It will require some force to remove
FIGURE 3.13 the freewheel. Another option is to mount remover
tool flats in the jaws of a vise and turn the rim
counter-clockwise.
h. Turn the remover only one full revolution counter-
clockwise. Loosen and remove skewer or axle nut before
continuing to remove freewheel.
i. Turn remover counter-clockwise until freewheel is
unthreaded from hub. Lift the freewheel from the hub.
Procedure for freewheel installation:
a. Apply grease or anti-seize heavily inside mounting
threads of freewheel (figure 3.14). Lack of thread
lubrication may seize freewheel to the hub.
b. Lay wheel on bench and hold flat. Hold freewheel sprockets
Turn tool counter-clockwise to remove freewheel from hub parallel to wheel and lower freewheel onto threads.
www.parktool.com 37
FIGURE 3.14 There may also be a notched lockring or a lockring with flats
retaining the cog. If the lockring has flats, measure across the
flats and use the appropriate size wrench or a large adjustable
wrench. Notched lockrings are removed and tightened with
the Park Tool HCW-17 Lockring Tool (figure 3.16).
FIGURE 3.16
Heavily grease threads of freewheel
FIGURE 3.15
Single speed cassette system with notched lockring
SPROCKET INSPECTION & CLEANING

The teeth of the cassette or freewheel are cut to fit chain
with a ½ inch pitch. Rear sprockets eventually wear out. As
the chain is ridden it loads only the back side of the sprocket
teeth. Material is eventually ground away, changing the shape
and widening the space between the teeth (figure 3.17). The
chain rollers will then not properly engage the teeth and, on
Example of off-centered freewheel from possible cross threading derailleur bikes, the chain will skip over the cog when load is
c. Axle should be centered in hole of freewheel. If axle applied, such as going up a hill.
appears off-center, freewheel is cross-threaded on hub FIGURE 3.17
threads (figure 3.15). Remove and realign.
d. Begin threading freewheel clockwise by hand until
freewheel feels fully threaded.
e. Use chain whip tool to fully seat freewheel clockwise
against hub, so that derailleur adjustments will be correct
when the wheel is installed in the bike. It is also possible
to install the wheel in the bike and use the pedals to
fully seat the freewheel. The freewheel must be seated to
accurately adjust rear derailleur settings.
f. If either a new freewheel or new wheel is installed, check
rear derailleur limit screw settings and indexing. See
Chapter 9, Derailleur Systems.
Some freewheel models allow the removal of individual Left: chain rollers sitting in a worn sprocket showing poor engagement
Right: chain rollers showing good engagement on a new sprocket
sprockets. Sprockets can be held to the freewheel body with
a lockring, or the first cog may act as the lockring. However, FIGURE 3.18
individual replacement sprockets for freewheels are not
available, so there is no need to remove the sprockets from
the freewheel body. The cogs can be cleaned while in place on
the freewheel body.
SINGLE-SPEED REMOVAL
Single-speed rear hubs may use either the cassette system
or a screw-on freewheel, depending upon the make and
model. For threaded freewheels use the same procedures as
multiple cog freewheel removal and installation.
Cassette system single-speeds may come with a lockring
similar to multiple speed cassettes. Use the Park Tool FR-5
and the same procedures as multiple speed cassette systems. Inspect for a smooth and shiny surface indicating a worn cog
38
This sprocket shows signs of original stamping marks Cleaning debris between sprockets with the “comb” of the GSC-1
indicating very little usage
solvent off sprockets, rim, and tire. Grab two corners of rag
Visually inspect the sprockets from behind where the and pull taut. Use this section to “floss” between sprockets.
chain engages each sprocket. Look at various sprockets and Freehubs can be removed for internal cleaning. This process
notice any that are shiny and smooth compared to the rest is described in Chapter 4, Hubs. Although the freehub can
(figure 3.18 and figure 3.19). This indicates a relatively worn be pulled, it is not designed be taken apart down to the
cog. The best test for a worn cog is to ride it with a new or bearings and ratcheting pawls. Worn freehubs are replaced,
unworn chain. If the cog does not skip under load, it is not not overhauled.
worn out.
Cyclists tend to use two or three favorite rear sprockets FIXED GEAR SPROCKETS
more than the others. These, naturally, will wear out first. A fixed gear is a single-speed sprocket that is locked to the
Commonly, these are the 15- to 18-tooth sprockets. If hub shell. When the rear wheel is turning the cog must turn,
individual sprocket replacements are available, replace these and consequently, the chain and cranks must turn. Fixed
worn cogs. Otherwise, all rear cassette sprockets are typically gear drivetrains are used for Velodrome racing (track bikes)
replaced together. When a new cassette or freewheel is and some street bikes. It is possible to modulate speed by
installed, a new chain should be installed. changing leg speed, but for street use this is not a substitute
Single-speed bikes will also wear at the rear sprocket. The for a caliper braking system with a hand lever.
chain will not skip under load like a derailleur bike, but it will Fixed gear cog threading is the same pitch and diameter of
begin to make excessive noise and become less efficient as the common threaded freewheels and will fit hubs threaded for
teeth become hooked. freewheels. However, fixed cogs are intended for hubs designed
Rear sprockets and front chainrings require cleaning if with a lockring (figure 3.21). The lockring of a fixed gear hub
the entire drivetrain is to be maintained. Use care not to is slightly smaller than the cog and is left hand threaded.
get solvent into the bearings of the freewheel/freehub or Because of the left hand thread of the lockring, it would
the bearings of the bottom bracket. Freehub mechanisms be self-tightening if the rear cog were to begin loosening.
and freewheel bodies use ball bearings running on bearing Lockrings only need to be snug; do not overtighten.
surfaces as well as small springs and pawls. These component Fixed gear cogs come in ⅛ inch and ³⁄₃₂ inch widths
parts are not typically “overhauled” by complete disassembly. (nominally 3 mm and 2.4 mm, respectively) and must match
The unit may be removed from the hub, flushed, and scrubbed the chain roller width. To install the fixed cog, grease threads
clean in solvent. The solvent will then be blown out with of both the cog and lockring. Thread cog onto hub and tighten
compressed air or allowed to evaporate. Lubrication is then with chain whip. Install lockring and snug. Chain length and
dripped into the mechanism. Grease is not recommended for tension is determined in the same way as a single-speed bike.
freehubs or freewheel internals because it may cause the small
FIGURE 3.21
springs and pawls to stick. If the freewheel/freehub spins
roughly after cleaning, the bearing surfaces are worn out
and the unit should be replaced. There are no internal parts
available for freehubs or freewheels from manufacturers. See
page 47, Freehub Removal & Installation.
Rear sprockets can be cleaned while still mounted to the
wheel. Begin by scraping between sprockets with the comb
part of the Park Tool GearClean® Brush (figure 3.20) or a thin
screwdriver to remove dirt and debris. Hold wheel so sprockets
are tilted downward underneath the wheel, then use a dry
stiff bristle brush between sprockets. Dip brush in solvent
and scrub sprockets while holding sprockets facing downward.
This helps to keep solvent out of bearings. Use a rag to wipe Lockring and single speed fixed gear cog
www.parktool.com 39
4 Hubs
Hubs
CHAPTER 4 HUBS
H ubs are the mechanisms at the center of the wheels

that allow the rim, spokes, and tires to rotate in the
frame. The hub consists of an axle, a bearing system,
and a hub shell to hold the spokes. Hub bearings will require
servicing for wear from use, and from exposure to dirt. If a
widths through the years. As more sprockets were added to
the hub, the wider the over-locknut width needed to be. As
mountain bike tires became wider, it was also necessary to
increase the hub width. See Table 4.1 for some of the hub
over-locknut standards and their typical uses.
hub was initially adjusted improperly, it will greatly accelerate It is possible to manipulate some rear hubs and change from
wear on the hub bearings. one over-locknut width to another. If the hub uses a straight
The hub axle is fixed to the front or rear forks, while the threaded axle, a new axle of a different length can be installed
hub shell rotates with the tire and spokes. On derailleur and spacers adjusted accordingly. The majority of modern hubs
bicycles, multiple rear sprockets are affixed to the rear hub are cartridge bearing types with special flanged axles and do
with a clutch mechanism that allows the rider to either coast not allow for changes to hub over-locknut widths.
or to drive the wheel forward. On disc brake bikes, the hub On “thru-axle” hubs, the axle is removed fully from the bike
will also hold the disc rotor used for braking. Hubs can also to get the wheel out. The hub width is measured from end to
be designed to hold an internal gear system. For internal gear end of the hub as it inserts in the frame or fork (figure 4.2).
hub systems see Chapter 10, Internal Gear Systems. There is no axle locknut for the over-locknut measurement.
Hubs vary in width according to the intended use and bike Front forks are 100 mm wide for the 15 mm diameter thru-
design. Hub width is measured from left to right locknut faces axle hubs. The 20 mm front forks accept the 110 mm wide
(figure 4.1). This is referred to as the “over-locknut” width. thru-axle hubs.
The inside width of the frame or fork should match the over- FIGURE 4.2
locknut width of the hub by 1−2 mm. The fork or frame will
not be harmed when hubs differ from their width by this
small amount.
Usually, front hubs designed for open dropout forks are
100 mm wide. Rear hubs have been made in many different
FIGURE 4.1
Thru-axle fork with hub in the 15 mm axle standard
FIGURE 4.3
Measuring over-locknut width of a rear hub
TABLE 4.1 Common Hub Standards

COMMON HUB USE OVER-LOCKNUT WIDTH
Open dropout forks 100 mm
15 mm thru-axle forks 100 mm
20 mm thru-axle forks 110 mm
Rear hub, older track bike,
110 mm Closed dropout and a 12 mm rear thru-axle hub
some rear coaster brake hubs
Older 5-speed bikes, Rear hubs are also designed for thru-axles and use a closed
120 mm dropout (figure 4.3). The common axle diameter is 12 mm. There
current track bike standard
6- and 7-speed road bikes 126 mm are several width standards for rear thru-axle bikes listed in
Table 4.1. There is no interchangeability between the standards.
8-, 9-, 10-, and 11-speed modern road bikes 130 mm
Common MTB, internal gear hubs,
135 mm HUB BEARING SERVICE: ADJUSTABLE
and road disc brake hubs; 12 mm thru-axle CUP-AND-CONE TYPE
Tandem open dropout 140 mm The procedures below are written primarily for cup-and-
MTB 12 mm thru-ax1e 142, 150, 157, and 160 mm cone hubs on standard 10 mm and 9 mm threaded axles,
Tandem open dropout 160 mm
such as most Shimano® hubs. The procedures here are also
applicable to other adjustable cup-and-cone type hubs.
“Fat tire” standard 170 and 185 mm
However, some hub models from both Campagnolo® and
42
HUBS CHAPTER 4
Shimano® have significant differences in procedures. For full FIGURE 4.5

service on these models, such as the Shimano® Dura-Ace® or
Campagnolo® Record® hubs, contact the manufacturer or see
the Repair Help section of www.parktool.com.
Adjustable-type hubs use cone-shaped races threaded onto
an axle. The hub shell holds cup-shaped races. Ball bearings
are trapped between the cones and cups. Rear hubs must allow
for the sprockets and tend to be more complex than front
hubs. The modern freehub or cassette hub uses a separate
clutch mechanism to hold the cassette cogs. The freehub body
may be removed from the hub shell in a separate operation
but is normally left in place for axle bearing service.
Ball bearing and bearing surfaces are covered with grease
to minimize wear. The parts are shielded from dirt by covers Parts of a common Shimano® rear hub: (A) Hub shell, (B) Ball bearings,
and seals. Exposure to the elements will increase wear on the (C) Axle, (D) Locknuts, (E) Cones, (F) Washers, (G) Rubber seal
bearing surfaces and shorten ball bearing and bearing surface Procedure for hub disassembly:
life. Water is capable of penetrating most hub seals and a. For rear hubs, begin by removing rear sprockets (See
will carry dirt inside. Hubs should see occasional service to Chapter 3, Rear Sprockets).
prevent wear and to maximize life. b. Remove the quick-release skewer. For solid axle type
Hub cones have narrow wrench flats that require a special, hubs, remove axle nuts. If the hub has a disc brake rotor,
thin spanner called a cone wrench (figure 4.4). Cones are it should be removed to avoid contamination by grease.
made with wrench flats ranging from 13−28 mm. For front c. Inspect axle ends. Measure and note the amount of axle
hubs, the cone wrench sizes tend to be 13 mm, 14 mm, and protruding past locknut. For quick-release hubs, counting
occasionally 15 mm. In rear hubs, 15 mm and 17 mm are the the number of threads is an adequate measurement
most common wrench sizes. If the locknut is a simple hex (figure 4.6).
nut, use a combination wrench or even an adjustable wrench. d. Begin dismantling hub from the left side. If available,
Hex locknuts are commonly 17 mm or 16 mm. However, some mount hub in an axle vise. Mount right side of hub down
locknuts will accept only a cone wrench. with left side facing upward.
FIGURE 4.4 e. Remove rubber cover or seal from left side, if any.
FIGURE 4.6
Cone wrenches are required to service the narrow flats of hub cones
Freehub bodies are lubricated internally with a light Count the number of threads past locknut face
for a reference of axle protrusion
lubricant. Soaking entire rear hub in a solvent with freehub
attached will remove this lubrication. Avoid getting solvent into FIGURE 4.7
the freehub body during hub disassembly and cleaning. Simply
wipe the freehub clean of old grease with rags. Most freehubs
can be removed from the hub body in an optional procedure for
cleaning. See page 47, Freehub Removal & Installation.
DISASSEMBLY
During any disassembly, it is a good idea to take notes or
even take pictures of the parts orientation. Note especially
any differences between left and right side parts. For example,
an axle may be asymmetrical with more threading on one side
than the other. Make a note of the axle protrusion past the
locknut face on the right side. The parts arrangement of a
typical Shimano® hub is seen below (figure 4.5). Loosen any left side locknut
www.parktool.com 43
CHAPTER 4 HUBS
f. Hold cone using cone wrench and loosen locknut m.Clean and dry all parts. Wipe freehub mechanism using
counter-clockwise. On hubs with oversized axles, inspect damp rag. Do not soak freehub in solvent unless it is to
axle end for a hex fitting. This is a locking cap locknut. be removed.
Use a 5 mm hex to loosen left side locknut while holding Shimano® uses the cup-and-cone design for thru-axle hubs.
cone (figure 4.7). These are simply a variation on the same adjustable hub
g. Remove locknut and washers. To make reassembly easier, systems. Inspect for a locknut and cone opposite the rotor
place parts on a string, piece of wire, or zip tie as an side. Both cone and locknut will have wrench flats. Use cone
organization aid, in the same orientation as they came wrenches to remove the locknut and disassemble the cone
off hub (figure 4.8). (figure 4.9). These hubs are adjusted for no bearing play in or
FIGURE 4.8 out of the bike.
PARTS INSPECTION
Inspect hub cups and cones for pitting or damage. Use a
ballpoint pen to trace the bearing path. Roughness and wear
will be felt as the small ball of the pen passes over pits (figure
4.10). Cones are often available as a replacement part. Inspect
ball bearings for brightness. If balls are dull-looking, they
should be replaced. If the cup is damaged, it typically cannot
be replaced, and the entire hub must be replaced. To inspect
the axle, roll it on a flat surface and watch for a gap along
the axle-to-flat surface area appearing as axle rolls. Bent axles
cannot be straightened and should be replaced.
Hold parts together in order with zip tie or string
FIGURE 4.10
h. Remove cone by turning counter-clockwise and place on
your organization zip tie in same orientation as it came
off the axle.
i. Place one of your hands below right side of hub and lift
wheel slowly. Be prepared to catch loose bearings that
fall from hub. Place wheel on bench.
j. If inspecting for a bent axle, remove right side locknut
and cones. Note that left side and right side cones,
washers, and locknuts may be different. Do not confuse
left and right side parts. Use a zip tie or some other
method to keep track of parts. Also note axle threading
may be asymmetrical. The side with more axle spacers
gets more axle thread. Look and feel for pits along ball path of cone
k. Count the number of bearings on each side and then
use a pencil magnet to remove bearings from hub shell. ASSEMBLY
Measure ball bearing size. Hub bearing size may be Refer to any notes or photos you made from the
¼ inch, ³⁄₁₆ inch, or ⁵⁄₃₂ inch depending upon model. disassembly procedure. For example, the axle thread length
l. Leave dust caps in place. Dust caps tend to be fragile may vary between left and right side. Do not take apart the
and any attempt at removal may result in damage. Use cone, spacer, and locknut zip tie until ready to install.
a small brush or a rag used over a small screwdriver to Procedure for hub assembly:
clean inside and under dust caps. a. Grease axle threads.
FIGURE 4.9 b. Grease heavily inside hub shell cups. Place ball bearings in
both cups and cover with more grease. Make sure balls are
seated flat in cup. The balls should be covered in grease.
c. If all parts were removed from axle, install right side
parts. Use care to install in the same orientation as they
came off. Note rear axle threads may be asymmetrical.
Refer to earlier notes.
d. Adjust right side cone and locknut to return right side
axle protrusion to the original measurement past locknut
face, as noted in disassembly. Tighten right side locknut
fully against cone.
e. Install axle through right side of hub.
f. Install left side axle parts, using care to install in the
Adjustable cup-and-cone thru-axle front hub same orientation as they came off. Do not set axle
44
HUBS CHAPTER 4
protrusion on this side and do not tighten locknut at FIGURE 4.12

this time.
g. For quick-release type hubs, snug the cone down until
it contacts the ball bearings, then turn back counter-
clockwise ¼ turn (90 degrees). This will purposely make
the bearing adjustment too loose. Hold the cone with the
cone wrench without turning it any farther and, while
holding the cone ¼ turn from snug, fully tighten the
locknut. There should be axle play at this early setting.
Proceed to “Hub Adjustment: Cup-and-Cone.”
It is important to check that the threaded axle of a quick-
release hub does not protrude past the face of the dropout
(figure 4.11). The quick-release skewer must press on the
dropout, not the axle end. If the quick-release skewer presses Make only small incremental adjustments to hub bearings
on the end of the hub axle, check the alignment of the axle rotation (figure 4.12). Assuming you have the common 32-
between the left and right locknuts or shorten the axle by hole rim, imagine rotating a cone wrench only the angle of
grinding or filing the ends slightly, if necessary. spoke to spoke while making adjustments.
FIGURE 4.11 The common quick-release hubs have hollow axles that
allow for the quick-release skewer shaft. These axles flex
slightly when the quick-release lever is closed and pressure is
applied to the dropouts, effectively shortening the axle and
tightening the bearing adjustment. Hub bearing adjustments
must account for this slight change in effective axle length.
For adjustable-type hubs there should be a slight amount of
play in the axle when the wheel is out of the bike. This play
should disappear when the hub and wheel are clamped tightly
in the frame. The exception to this is for thru-axle hubs and
for some hub models with large, oversized axle systems.
Adjust hub bearings when the wheel is out of the bike.
However, to test the adjustment, it is necessary to install the
Any axle protruding past dropout will not permit quick-release skewer wheel and close the skewer fully tight.
to fully lock wheel
To test the bearing adjustment of the cup-and-cone hub,
grab the wheel while it is mounted in the frame and pull it
HUB ADJUSTMENT firmly side to side. Rotate wheel to a different position and
The cone races moving relative to the cups along the axle test again, feeling for a knocking sensation (figure 4.13).
perform bearing adjustment. The locknut then locks the If no play is felt, remove the wheel. Grab the axle (not the
cones in place. If the adjustment is overly tight there will skewer) and rock it up and down to check for play. If the
be too much pressure on the balls and bearing surfaces, and axle has play when the wheel is outside the bike but no
the system will quickly wear out. A rear hub bearing that is play inside the bike, the hub is adequately adjusted. If there
too tight can also result in freehub drag. If the adjustment FIGURE 4.13
is too loose, it will cause play in the wheel and this can also
prematurely wear out the hub. Proper bearing adjustment is a
precise and sometimes time-consuming job. Several attempts
at adjustment should be expected before an acceptable
adjustment is found.
It is normal to have play between the internal thread of the
cone and the external threads of the axle. A hub cone will
wiggle on the axle thread until the cone locknut is tightened
down against the cone. Because of this normal thread play,
you must first tighten the locknut against the cone when
checking bearing adjustments.
The goal for adjustable bearings is to have the bearings
rotate as freely as possible without any knocking or play.
When beginning a bearing adjustment, start with it loose and
then proceed to tighten the adjustment in small increments
until the play disappears. This ensures the adjustment is
as loose as possible but is without play. In most cases, try Grab wheel and pull side to side laterally to check for
to make small changes, in increments of ⅟₃₂ of a complete knocking of bearing play
www.parktool.com 45
CHAPTER 4 HUBS
is no play in the axle when the wheel is outside the bike, FIGURE 4.14
the adjustment is too tight, even if the axle seems to turn
smoothly when out of the bike. Loosen cone only slightly and
retest adjustment in the bike.
Procedure for hub adjustment:
a. If the wheel is mounted in the bike, pull rim side to side to
check for bearing play. If no play is present, it is necessary
to remove and again check for play out of the bike.
b. Remove wheel from bike. Test bearing adjustment by
pulling up and down on axle and feeling for play or
knocking. If there was no play in hub when mounted
in the bike, but there is play present when hub is
outside the bike, the adjustment is adequate. If there
is no play in the axle when the hub is outside the bike, Component parts of the Campagnolo® Record® hub:
the adjustment is too tight. If the hub is too tight and (A) Axle end cap, (B) Left side lockring, (C) Cones, (D) Ball Bearings,
(E) Freehub, (F) Right side axle nut (G) Hub shell (H) Axle
requires adjustment, remove quick-release skewer and
springs. Remove any rubber boot covering cones and FIGURE 4.15
locknuts on side being adjusted.
c. Secure the right side axle in an axle vise, if available.
d. Hold the left side cone with a cone wrench and loosen
the locknut.
e. Loosen cone counter-clockwise a small amount (⅟₃₂ turn).
Hold cone and secure locknut. If hub feels very tight
outside of bike, loosen ¼ turn in order to create play.
f. Reinstall skewer and install wheel into frame/fork.
Secure quick-release fully.
g. Test bearing adjustment by pulling side-to-side, checking
for knocking. Play will resonate through frame or fork.
h. If play is felt, remove wheel and remove skewer. Repeat
steps “c” to “g”, proceeding with small adjustments, Threaded cone of Shimano® Dura-Ace 9000 rear hub
until no play is felt when the wheel is installed. Shimano® and Campagnolo® use the cup-and-cone design.
i. Reinstall any seals or rubber boots removed during The oversized axles do not significantly flex when installed
disassembly and install wheel in bike. The wheel must be on the bike and the quick-release skewer is closed. The
installed with the same quick-release pressure used when adjustment can be done out of the bike and will be effectively
checking bearing play. the same as when in the frame.
If an adjustment cannot be found to allow smooth rotation For service procedures of the Campagnolo® and Shimano®
of the axle, the bearing surfaces may be worn out. If play oversized axles, contact the manufacturer or see the Repair
does not disappear until bearing adjustment is very tight, Help section of www.parktool.com.
a locknut may not be tight against cone, which will allow
movement. It may also be that the bearing cups inside hub HUB ADJUSTMENT: SOLID AXLE CUP-AND-CONE
shell have come loose. It may be possible to use a retaining Non-quick-release hub systems use axle nuts and washers on
compound behind the cup to re-secure it. However, hub or the outside of the dropouts to hold the wheel in place (figure
wheel replacement is the best option. 4.16). Adjustment of solid axle hub bearings is similar to the
hollow axle quick-release type, but there is no need to allow
OVERSIZED AXLE SERVICE: FIGURE 4.16
CAMPAGNOLO® AND SHIMANO®
Both Campagnolo® and Shimano® use “oversized” axle designs
for select models (figure 4.14). The oversized axle provides a
stronger and stiffer connection between front or rear dropouts.
There are many service features shared between Campagnolo®
and Shimano® oversized hubs. Each uses an oversized
aluminum axle with end caps reduced to 10 mm. Campagnolo®
oversized hubs use unthreaded cones and are similar in concept
to threadless headsets. These are locked in place by a sliding
compression ring and a lockring with a pinch bolt.
Shimano® uses threaded end caps as the locknut which are
removed with hex wrenches. Cones are threaded and are held
by the locknut (figure 4.15). Solid or non-quick-release axle on derailleur type bike
46
HUBS CHAPTER 4
for axle flex. Remove the wheel from the bike. The adjustment f. Use a seal pick to remove any dust seal that may be
for solid axle hubs does not change when mounted in the behind the freehub body (figure 4.18).
bike. It can be useful to mount a ’’fixed wrench” to act as g. Flush freehub with solvent. Scrub the bearing cup clean.
a lever on the right side when adjusting. This allows you h. Blow-dry freehub, rotating freehub to remove solvent
to tighten or loosen relative to the fixed cone. If no play is from internals. If no compressor is available, allow
present, create play by loosening bearing adjustment. Proceed freehub to dry until no solvent is left inside.
to adjust tighter in small increments until play is gone. The i. Drip lubricant inside the freehub body from the backside
goal is to find the loosest adjustment that has no play. and front side. Install dust seal.
j. Grease freehub installation bolt.
FREEHUB REMOVAL & INSTALLATION k. Install washers or spacers as necessary.
Freehubs contain a ratcheting mechanism to allow l. Install freehub onto hub body.
freewheeling. Depending upon the brand and model, the m.Install and secure freehub bolt.
freehub may contain internal parts that eventually wear n. Assemble axle assembly into hub and adjust.
out. There are no serviceable parts inside most freehubs. The
freehub may be removed on many models for cleaning and CARTRIDGE BEARING HUBS
re-lubrication. If this service did not help or solve the freehub Cartridge-type hubs typically use non-serviceable industrial
problem, the freehub should be replaced as a complete unit. or rolling element bearings. These are simply used until the
The axle bearing dust caps on many freehubs can be easily bearing surfaces are worn or damaged, and then the entire
damaged if removed. Work around dust caps to avoid damage cartridge bearing is replaced. Ball bearings are trapped
as replacement caps are difficult to obtain. between inner and outer rotating races (figure 4.19). There
Procedure for freehub removal and installation: should be no play between the inner and outer races of the
a. Remove skewer and cassette. cartridge. With use, play will develop between these two races
b. Remove axle. and the entire cartridge unit will require replacement.
c. Inspect inside freehub body for a bolt fitting. If no fitting FIGURE 4.19
is apparent on right side, inspect through left side.
d. Insert hex wrench and turn counter-clockwise. Wrench
sizes may vary from 10−15 mm (figure 4.17). 10 mm is
the most common.
e. Remove freehub. Inspect for any washers or spacers
behind freehub and remove.
FIGURE 4.17
Cutaway of cartridge bearing showing inner races and ball bearings

Most cartridge hubs are not serviceable in the sense that they
are overhauled and adjusted. The bearing units use rubber covers.
The bearing, however, is not fully “sealed” and is susceptible to
dirt and water. The bearing is removed as a unit and a new one is
pressed in. Some hub models require specialty tools and service
of these hubs is best left to professional mechanics.
Loosen and remove freehub bolt Cartridge hub designs typically press the outer race of the
FIGURE 4.18 cartridge bearing into the hub shell. Removal of the bearing
from the hub shell may involve impact or pressing of the
bearings. It is likely that the impact will damage the bearing.
If a bearing is being removed, it is assumed it will be replaced
with a new bearing.
The hub axle may be threaded or non-threaded. The axle
holds the inner race of the cartridge bearing secure. Threaded
axles typically use a “sleeve nut” system. The nut will be
tightened until it touches the bearing, then should be backed
away ¼ turn. A locknut then secures the sleeve nut. This
prevents the sleeve nut from pressing on the inner bearing
race. The inner and outer cartridge races align vertically for
smooth operation. If the inner race is pushed inward, the
Remove seal (if present) behind freehub body bearing tends to wear out quickly (figure 4.20).
www.parktool.com 47
CHAPTER 4 HUBS
FIGURE 4.20 4.23). For example, if the interference fit is on the outer race
of the bearing, the diameter of the driving tool must match
the diameter of the outer race of the bearing.
There are many brands and models of cartridge bearing
hubs. The Mavic hub is used here as a representative of the
type. However, service procedures will vary. For information
on other brands and types contact the hub manufacturer or
see the Repair Help section of www.parktool.com.
FIGURE 4.23
Threaded sleeve nut holding axle to cartridge bearing
FIGURE 4.21
Driving in a cartridge bearing with a socket
MAVIC® HUB (LEVEL 1 TYPE)

There are several versions of the Mavic® hub system, and
exact procedures may vary with each model. Mavic® cartridge
bearings are pressed into the hub shell. The axle must be
Removing pressed races removed to drive the bearings out with a punch. Bearing
Bearings of the threaded axle system are commonly service tools are available from a Mavic® retailer. It is possible
removed by impact. A punch is placed through the hub, to substitute punches and sockets of the correct outside
and the bearing is struck first on one side and then the diameter. Service of the rear hub is typically more complex
other. This tapping “walks” the bearing out of the hub shell due to the freehub. The service procedures below for the
(figure 4.21). “Level One” hubs using the “Force Transfer System Light.”
Non-threaded axles are typically made with a collar Procedure for rear hub service:
(figure 4.22). These axles use end-caps and come either in a. Remove skewer, cassette cogs, and rotor, if applicable.
threaded or push-on fit. Look for wrench flats either on the b. Remove left side end cap by pulling on it.
cap or inside the axle. After end-caps are removed, the axle c. Insert 5 mm hex wrench in right side of axle. Insert 10 mm
is struck with a mallet and acts as the punch to drive out hex wrench in left side of axle. Turn either side counter-
the bearing. clockwise to loosen and remove axle from hub (figure 4.24).
The installation of cartridge bearings typically involves an d. Pull freehub body from hub shell. Note any washer under
interference fit. The bearing will be slightly larger than the freehub (figure 4.25).
hub shell. Hub manufacturers provide pressing and impact e. There is a seal on hub shell beneath freehub that may
tools. It is possible to use steel sockets that match the be left in place. Use care to not cut or damage seal if
diameter of the bearing race at the interference fit (figure removing it.
Non-threaded axle with a cartridge bearing Remove axle from hub with hex wrenches
48
HUBS CHAPTER 4
Remove freehub body from hub shell Drive bearing fully into hub shell
f. It is not necessary to removal pawls from hub shell. If l. Install bearing in freehub using driving tool and reinstall
pawls are removed, work carefully and pull pawls away threaded cap.
from body. Use care not to lose pawl springs or parts. m.Install seal if removed. Lubricate seal, pawls, and inside
g. First remove right side and then left side cartridge freehub with mineral oil or light chain lubricant.
bearing using drift punch. Tap side to side gradually to n. Install right side axle into freehub. Place washer on axle
remove (figure 4.26). inside freehub body.
FIGURE 4.26 o. Engage freehub body onto hub. Squeeze pawls inward
while turning freehub counter-clockwise.
p. Install axle through left side and thread into right side axle.
q. Hold right side axle using a 5 mm hex wrench and
tighten left side axle with 10 mm hex wrench.
r. Install left side axle end cap by pushing on axle end.
s. Install cassette stack and rotor, if applicable. Install
wheel in bike.
t. Hub adjustment is done on left side at lockring. Use a
pin spanner such as the Mavic® tool or Park Tool SPA-2.
FIGURE 4.29
Drive bearings from hub shell
FIGURE 4.27
Adjusting bearing play at lockring
FIGURE 4.30
Remove right side cap by holding freehub body

and turning cap counter-clockwise
h. To replace bearing in freehub, remove threaded right side
cap counter-clockwise. Use cassette cogs and chain whip
to hold freehub body while removing cap (figure 4.27).
Cassette lockring is not required.
i. Drive bearing from freehub.
j. Install drive-side bearing using driver tool (figure 4.28).
Center bearing to hole and tap into place to fully seat.
k. Install opposite bearing using driver tool. Center bearing
to hole and tap into place. Removing the axle from a front hub
www.parktool.com 49
CHAPTER 4 HUBS
u. Grab rim and pull side to side. If play exists, turn adjusting Tech Note:
nut clockwise in small increments until gone (figure 4.29).
The front hub of the Mavic® Level One series wheels have
two bearings pressed into the hub shell. Look for 5 mm
hex fitting in the axle and hold the opposite side bearing For more information on other hub models
adjusting nut with a pin spanner (figure 4.30). Loosen and visit www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
remove adjustable cap. Bearings are tapped out and new
ones pressed in as with the rear hub. Tightening the one
bearing adjustment lockring on the bike as with rear hub
makes the adjustment complete.
50
5 Wheel truing
Wheel truing
CHAPTER 5 WHEEL TRUING
B icycle wheels act as the “ball bearings” between the

frame and the ground. The wheels allow the bike to
roll forward as we pedal. Straight, round wheels add
to the bike’s performance. Some adjustment to the wheel
runout (trueness) is possible by making adjustments to spoke
among mechanics is to “tighten the spokes,” it is the nipples
that are turned, not the spokes. Turning the nipples changes
tension on the spoke, much like any nut or bolt.
Wheels not only help us go, they also help us slow. Caliper
rim brakes such as linear pull, cantilever, side pull, and dual
tension. Non-serviceable bladed spoke wheels or large carbon pivot brakes use the rim sidewall as the braking surface. Brake
disc wheels have no truing adjustment or repair options like pad adjustment is difficult and often futile with an out-of-
traditional wire spoke wheels. true or wobbly wheel.
The bicycle wheel is composed of a hoop or rim that is
suspended by spokes around the hub. Each spoke is under WHEEL TRUING OVERVIEW
tension and pulls on a limited section of rim. Spokes coming When truing, it is especially important to use a correctly
from the right side hub flange pull the rim both toward sized wrench. Spoke nipples are typically made of brass or
the hub and to the right side. Spokes coming from the left aluminum, both of which are relatively soft materials. Nipples
side hub flange pull the rim toward the hub and to the left may be square shaped and come in different sizes. A wrench
side. Spokes are oriented at the rim in a left-right-left-right that is even slightly too large easily damages the nipple by
pattern to counter the pull from each side or flange. Having rounding the corners (figure 5.3). Use a caliper to measure
spokes tight with relatively even tension makes the wheel across the nipple flats and purchase the correct-sized wrench.
spin straight. Changes to spoke tension will change the There is no correlation between spoke diameter and nipple
amount of pull on the rim where the spoke attaches and size. See Table 5.1, Spoke Wrench Fit. If you own spoke
affect its position or “true.” The process of changing spoke wrenches of different sizes, use the smallest that will fit, even
tension to correct rim runout is called “truing.” Professional if it seems to slow down putting the wrench on the nipple
mechanics will use tools such as truing stands, centering (figure 5.4).
gauges (dishing tools), spoke wrenches, spoke tension meters, FIGURE 5.3
and their experience to adjust spoke tension and produce a
durable and strong wheel (figure 5.1).
Wheels are under constant stress when used, and occasional
truing will keep the rim running straight. Spoke tension is
adjusted by tightening or loosening a threaded nut, called
the “nipple,” at the end of the spoke. The nipples are turned
with a spoke wrench (figure 5.2). Although a common phrase
FIGURE 5.1
Spoke wrenches that are too large will round nipple corners
TABLE 5.1 Spoke Wrench Fit

NIPPLE TYPE SIZE PARK TOOL WRENCH
Square 3.23 mm SW-0 or SW-20 (black)
Square 3.3 mm SW-1 (green)
Square 3.45 mm SW-2 or SW-22 (red)
Equipment used by professional mechanics Square 3.95 mm SW-3 (blue)
FIGURE 5.2 Square 4.4 mm SW-14

Square internal 3.23 mm SW-15 or SW-16
³⁄₁₆ inch
Hex-headed internal SW-16.3
(4.7 mm)
Hex-headed internal 5 mm SW-15 or SW-17
Hex-headed internal 5.5 mm SW-15 or SW-18
Hex-headed internal 6 mm SW-19
Six-splined round (Mavic®) 5.7 mm OD SW-13
Seven-splined round (Mavic®) 6.4 mm OD SW-12
Six-splined round as grommet for
9 mm OD SW-12 or SW-13
square nipples (Mavic®)
Spoke wrenches for various-sized spoke nipples Six-splined round (DT Swiss® Tricon) 4 mm SW-5 (gray)
54
WHEEL TRUING CHAPTER 5
A proper fitting wrench will protect the nipple Gap between rim and one caliper indicates deviation from lateral true
There are some styles of nipples made with a special FIGURE 5.7
pattern or size. In some cases the wrench may be available
only from the nipple manufacturer.
There are also some styles of nipples that fit internally,
inside the rim. It is necessary to remove the tire and rim strip
to access the head of the nipple in order to fit a tool to the
nipple for adjustment (figure 5.5). The nipple head may be a
3.2 mm square shape, or a hex shape in ³⁄₁₆ inch (4.7 mm),
5 mm, 5.5 mm, or 6 mm.
FIGURE 5.5
Radial error in the movement of the rim as it spins
RADIAL TRUE
This is the amount of vertical runout or hop (figure 5.7).
If the wheel becomes out-of-round, it moves or hops up and
down with each revolution. In severe cases this will affect
brake pad placement and can be felt by the rider as a bump
every wheel revolution.
RIM CENTERING (DISH)

This is the centering of the rim in the middle of the front
fork or rear frame. If the rim is offset left or right within the
forks or dropouts, it may be difficult to adjust the brakes.
Truing a rim with internal nipples Severe cases of poor centering can also cause handling
Park Tool produces numerous spoke wrench options. If you problems because the front and rear wheel won’t track in a
intend to purchase one wrench, it is best to measure across straight line (figure 5.8).
the nipple flats. If it is a round nipple with splines, count the FIGURE 5.8
number of splines as well as measure the outside diameter.
See Table 5.1 for sizing detail.
There are four basic aspects of wheel truing: lateral true,
radial true, rim centering over the hub (dish), and spoke
tension. A properly trued wheel will have all four aspects
adjusted evenly for best performance.
LATERAL TRUE
Also called “rim runout,” this is the side-to-side wobble
of the rim as the wheel spins (figure 5.6). This aspect is the
most critical for rim brake caliper settings. Too much runout
will make it difficult to set the rim brake pads without the
pads rubbing the rim. Extreme runout problems result in the Centering error seen in the frame by this rear wheel sitting
tire hitting the frame or fork. too far to the right side
www.parktool.com 55
TENSION FIGURE 5.11

This is simply the tightness of the spokes. Spokes are
tensioned just like other fasteners. Spoke tension is
best measured using a tool called a spoke tension meter
(tensiometer) such as the Park Tool TM-1, which flexes the
spoke using a calibrated spring (figure 5.9). With experience,
spoke tension can be roughly estimated by squeezing pairs of
spokes and feeling the deflection.
FIGURE 5.9
Visualize turning the wrench as if a screw driver is turning the nipple

confuse you. Keep in mind that the nipple is rotating around
the fixed spoke. Imagine a screwdriver at the nipple end and
turn it clockwise or counter-clockwise as required (figure 5.11).
There are some models of wheels where the nipple is located
at the hub flange. These wheels true the same as conventional
wheels. Tightening a spoke will draw the rim towards the hub
flange side where it connects. The threading of the spokes
Spoke tension measurement with a tensiometer and nipples is still a right-hand thread, and nipples tighten
clockwise as seen from the orientation of the nipple.
TRUING PROCEDURES Bladed or flat spokes add to the complexity of truing. If a
It is useful to use a steady pointer as a reference, such as bladed spoke is not held while the nipple is turned, the blade
one found on a truing stand, when sighting rim movement may twist until the flat section is at an angle to front of the
and deviations as the rim turns. Park Tool truing stands allow bike. Use needle nose pliers, a small adjustable wrench, or a
easier and faster work when truing. The truing stand uses a bladed spoke tool such as the Park Tool BSH-1 Bladed Spoke
caliper indicator as a reference to gauge the rim runout. If no Holder (figure 5.12) to prevent the spoke from twisting.
truing stand is available, it is possible to use anything that FIGURE 5.12
will hold the wheel as steady as a truing stand. The bicycle
frame or fork itself may also be used. Use the brake pads if
there are rim brakes, or use a zip tie to create an indicator as
a reference gauge. Secure and snug a zip tie at rim height on
each side of the seat stay or fork blade. Cut zip tie to a length
able to touch the rim (figure 5.10).
FIGURE 5.10
Use of the Park Tool BSH-1 to prevent bladed spoke twists

The image below is a “mechanic’s eye” view of the rim
(figure 5.13). The spoke nipples labeled A, C, and E are on the
left side of the rim and come from the left side hub flange.
Spoke nipples B, D, and F are on the right and come from the
right side hub flange. Left side spokes pull the rim toward
the left. Their pulling is offset by the pull of spokes on the
Use zip ties for reference indicator if truing stand is not available right. Each nipple affects a relatively wide area of the rim. For
When truing, it is critical to get the spoke wrench fully example, spoke C pulls mainly at the nipple hole of the rim,
engaged on the nipple before turning. A wrench that is only but this spoke also affects the rim up to and even past A and
partially engaged may damage the nipple and make further F. Turning nipple C to increase spoke tension will move that
truing difficult. When truing a wheel, the wrench and nipples section of rim to the left. Turning nipple D to increase tension
may be viewed and adjusted upside down. This happens if the will move that section of rim to the right. Loosening nipple
wrench and nipple are viewed and adjusted below the axle C will also move the rim to the right because of the constant
center. The wrench will appear to the mechanic as turning pull of D and B. While is possible to manipulate several spokes
to the left when tightening the nipple. Do not allow this to to correct the same rim error, a person new to truing should
56
FIGURE 5.13 Most wheels will be adequately true if they wobble laterally
less than ⅟₁₆ inch (1 mm) and if the rim does not strike the
brake pads. More experienced mechanics may get the lateral
tolerance down to 0.5 mm or less. While achieving very low
runout is enjoyable for some people, it does not necessarily
help the performance of the bike.
Procedure for lateral truing:
a. If a truing stand is available, remove wheel from bike.
Alternatively, mount the wheel in the bike and attach
zip ties on each side of the rim at the seat stays or fork
blades. If the wheel requires extensive truing, remove
the tire.
b. Place wheel in truing stand. Move indicators close to rim.
Spoke tension will determine wheel trueness c. Spin wheel and inspect for left-right deviations.
consider making one type of adjustment at a time. After d. Adjust indicator of truing stand (or zip tie end) so that
some experience, the mechanic can use both tightening and it lightly touches the rim in one area. Work off of either
loosening of different spokes in same correction. left or right side.
As spokes are connected from the hub to the rim, they e. Stop wheel where rim and one indicator are closest or
create a pattern, called the “lacing pattern.” The common touch. This area is the largest lateral deviation of the rim
pattern results in a weave effect as spokes from the same runout and should be corrected first. If the area of lateral
flange radiate outward at a tangent. Spokes radiate clockwise, error appears to be large, select only one spoke at the
and a second set radiates counter-clockwise. The spokes are middle of the deviation for the first correction.
joined at the rim with an alternating pattern of left-right- f. Rotate rim back and forth past indicator and find center
left right. However a tangential pattern lacing is not the only of rim deviation. It is easier to see the runout as it
option. Spokes can be joined at the rim in a pattern of two moves toward an indicator or rubbing it, rather than as
right side spokes, then one left, then two right, etc. Each a deviation that moves away from an indicator (figure
spoke still pulls on a small section of rim. 5.15). Use either a left side or a right side indicator.
Before making any adjustments to spoke tension, use a light FIGURE 5.15
lubricant and oil the threads of the spokes and the hole where
the nipple exits the rim (figure 5.14). This will reduce the
effort of turning the nipple to tension the spoke. Clean any
lubricant from the rim and rim braking surfaces after truing.
FIGURE 5.14
Isolate rim lateral deviation

g. If rim deviation moves toward the left side, find the right
flange nipple at the rim closest to center of deviation. If
rim deviation moves toward the right side, find the left
flange nipple closest to center of deviation. Tightening
Use a drop of lubrication on the spoke threads and where nipple exits rim this spoke will move rim deviation in this section of rim.
h. Tighten the selected spoke nipple ¼ to ½ turn. A ¼
Lateral Truing turn is a 90-degree turn of the nipple, while a ½ turn is
Lateral or side-to-side truing is the most commonly required a 180-degree turn. Spin the wheel and check deviation
truing procedure. Lateral runout shows up relatively well again. It is often necessary to repeat the process at one
when viewed from the side, such as at the rim caliper brake area. Do not tighten more than ½ turn at a time. It
pads. Tightening or loosening spokes at a section of rim is better to proceed in small increments and to check
can change lateral movements of the rim. Inexperienced progress between each nipple tightening by spinning
mechanics should generally tighten nipples when correcting the wheel.
deviations. Tightening the spoke tension will typically i. Locate another side-to-side deviation using indicator.
produce more rim movement while making these corrections. Repeat process of finding center of deviation and
Wheel rims do not need to spin perfectly straight with correcting deviation by finding and turning nipple from
zero lateral runout in order to be completely serviceable. spoke of opposite flange.
www.parktool.com 57
j. After making three corrections on one side of the rim, f. Tighten the two spokes in the middle of the deviation.
switch to other side indicator or zip tie. This will help Tighten one left side and one right side spoke, each the
maintain previous wheel centering. same amount, beginning with ½ turn.
k. Continue making corrections. To check tolerance, adjust g. Move the rim back and forth through the selected area.
indicator so it just barely rubs the rim in one area. Spin Repeat tightening if necessary.
wheel slowly from this point and inspect for the largest h. Spin the wheel and move the calipers (zip tie) slightly
gap between indicator and rim. This area is the worst closer to the rim to find next deviation. Correct the rub
left-to-right lateral deviation. If this gap appears less by tightening a left-right pair of spokes at the center of
than 1 mm (approximately the thickness of a dime), the rub.
wheel is adequately trued laterally. In some cases, it will i. After making three radial corrections, stop and double-
be necessary to continue truing for tighter tolerances. check lateral true. Correct the lateral true as needed
l. If only lateral true is being adjusted, clean the rim’s before proceeding with further radial adjustments.
braking surface with a solvent such as rubbing alcohol or j. After making several radial corrections to high spots, the
window cleaner. If frame-mounted zip ties were used as rim may show only areas moving toward the hub or low
indicator, cut and remove these from frame. spots. It will be necessary to loosen the low spot areas.
Spin the rim and move caliper (zip tie) to create a light
Radial Truing continuous scrape. The areas not scraping are low spots
The wheel rim may appear to move in and out toward the and need to move away from the hub to be corrected.
center as it rotates around the hub. This can also be viewed as an Isolate the center of the worst low spot.
up-and-down movement. This radial aspect of the wheel can be k. Loosen two spokes on either side of the center of the
affected by spoke tension. Sections of rim moving away from the low spot. Spokes should be adjacent left-side and right-
hub are called “high spots.” Sections of rim moving toward the side pairs.
hub are called “low spots.” Sections of rim can be moved toward l. Repeat procedure on other low spots. Occasionally check
the hub by tightening spokes from both flanges at areas of high and correct lateral true.
spots. Loosening spokes from both flanges will tend to move a m.Check for acceptable radial tolerance. Adjust indicator
section of rim slightly outward at low spots. In correcting radial so it just barely rubs the rim in one area. Spin wheel
runout, it is necessary to correct both high spots and low spots. slowly from this point and inspect for the largest gap
It is typically best to work using pairs of spokes, one from the between indicator and rim. This area is the largest radial
left side and one from the right side. By working with adjacent deviation. Wheel is adequately trued for round when the
left-right spokes there is less of a tendency for the wheel to deviation from the highest to lowest is less than 1 mm
become laterally out of true. It is necessary, however, to always (⅟₁₆ inch).
double check the lateral true after making radial corrections. n. Check and correct lateral true as needed.
Procedure for radial truing: o. If no other truing is to be done, clean the rim’s braking
a. Remove tire from wheel. surface with a solvent such as rubbing alcohol or window
b. Mount wheel in a truing stand or mount wheel in bike cleaner. Cut zip ties from frame. Reinstall tire and
frame and attach zip tie indicator to frame. Attach tie reinstall wheel in the bike.
close to outer edge of rim. If the wheel rim has been damaged and deformed from
c. Bring indicator (zip tie) close to outside edge of rim. impact, such as during riding or even during shipping, it
d. Spin rim and bring indicator (zip tie) slowly closer to rim may not be possible to correct the rim to a tight tolerance.
until there is a very light rub. This point is the largest If the rim shows an inward movement in one section toward
high spot or radial deviation away from the hub. the hub and the spokes in that area are already loose, the
e. Stop rim at light rub. Move rim back and forth through rim has been bent. This type of damage is not repairable.
rub and locate center of deviation. This section of rim Replacement of rim or wheel is recommended. Contact a
needs to move closer to hub (figure 5.16). professional mechanic.
FIGURE 5.16
Wheel Centering (Dishing)
The rim should be centered in the frame, front fork blades,
or the rear stays. Use a ruler and measure from the left and
right stay or fork blade to the rim. If the distances are equal
and the rim looks centered, it is centered. If there is a greater
distance from one stay or blade compared to the other, the
wheel is off-center, or “misdished.”
The rim can be moved over to the frame center by adjusting
spoke tension. Remember, spokes from the left flange pull
the rim toward the left, while spokes from the right flange
pull the rim toward the right. Tightening all left side spokes
evenly will move the rim to the left. Tightening all right side
Isolate radial runout and select a left-right pair of spokes to correct problem spokes evenly moves the rim right. Alternatively, loosen all
58
left side spokes to move the rim right. Loosen all right side FIGURE 5.19
spokes to move the rim left.
The most accurate method to check rim centering over a hub
is with a centering gauge called a dishing tool, such as the
Park Tool WAG-4 Wheel Alignment Gauge or WAG-5 Portable
Wheel Dishing Gauge. The Park Tool WAG-4 comes with two
sliding blocks on the feet. These blocks allow the tool to
measure off the wheel rim even when a tire is still mounted.
Procedure for wheel centering with a dishing tool:
a. Note which side of the wheel is being checked. In this
example, we will assume the right side is being checked
first and use this as a reference for the left side.
b. Place feet of dishing tool on rim and lower the sliding
indicator until the end rests on the face of the right side Dishing gauge indicator showing rim is off-center
locknut (figure 5.17). Do not rest indicator on end of 1 mm, the rim should be re-centered. In this example,
axle. The rim must be centered relative to the locknut the rim should be moved to the right. However, it is less
faces when mounted in the frame, not the axle ends. confusing to view any dishing error at the rim rather
FIGURE 5.17 than the hub. If after checking the wheel there is a gap
as described above, reset the indicator using the left
side as the first reference, and then compare this to the
right side. You will find there is now a gap between the
rim and one of the dishing tool feet, while the indicator
rests on the locknut face. This method makes it more
obvious that the rim should be moved towards the feet
of the tool. When viewing a gap between the locknut
face and dishing tool indicator, the rim is actually pulled
away from that locknut face in order to correct the error.
3. The indicator is unable to contact the locknut face while
both feet are resting on the rim. When the indicator
does contact the locknut, only one foot rests on the
Dishing gauge set to reference right side of wheel rim, leaving a gap between the rim and opposite foot
FIGURE 5.18 (figure 5.20). This indicates the rim is off-center towards
the right side. Adjust spoke tension to move rim to the
left to close the gap between dishing foot and rim.
d. Correct centering error by tightening spokes connected
to the flange on the same side in which there was a gap
between the rim and dishing tool foot. Tighten each
spoke on that side only ¼ turn. Note: A rim is off-
center of the bicycle mid plane by only half the distance
between the indicator and the locknut face. For example,
if the indicator is 3 mm from locknut face, the rim is off-
center by 1.5 mm from the mid plane of the bike.
e. Double-check and correct lateral true as necessary. The
dishing tool’s design assumes the rim is laterally true.
Three-point contact of tool feet and indicator FIGURE 5.20
showing a correctly dished wheel
c. Turn wheel over to check left side. Place feet of dishing
tool on rim. Note indicator relative to locknut face. There
are three possible results:
1. Both feet of dishing tool rest on the rim and the
indicator pointer lightly contacts the left locknut
face or is within 1 mm of it. This rim is adequately
centered to the locknuts. No correction of centering is
required (figure 5.18).
2. Both feet of the dishing tool rest on the rim, but there
is a significant gap between the indicator and locknut
face (figure 5.19). This indicates that the rim is off-
center towards the left side. If the gap is greater than Dishing gauge indicating wheel is off-center
www.parktool.com 59
f. Use the dishing tool and check wheel again, starting When adding or subtracting tension, work slowly and in
with step “a” above. Keep in mind that rim position relatively small increments. For example, to add tension to a
has changed relative to the locknut face of the original low-tension wheel, begin with a spoke next to the tire valve
reference side. Repeat corrections if necessary. When gap hole and add only ¼ turn to each spoke. After adding this
between rim and dishing tool is less than 1 mm, wheel is tension, double-check the lateral trueness. It is common to
adequately centered. make corrections to the other aspects of runout after adding
g. If no other truing is to be done, clean the rim’s braking overall tension. If more tension is desired, add another ¼ turn
surface with a solvent such as rubbing alcohol or to each spoke and again check the other aspects of truing.
window cleaner. Repeat the process until the desired tension is achieved.
When making corrections to dish, keep in mind that you It is common for the spokes to become twisted along
will also make changes to overall tension. Making corrections their long axis as the nipples are turned. This called “spoke
by tightening one side will increase overall tension of both windup.” To minimize the spoke twisting, lubricate the nipple.
sides, while loosening one side will decrease overall tension of When truing, you can place a finger on the spoke as you
both sides. turn the nipple. Significant windup can be left in the spoke.
If you feel this twisting, make slightly more correction than
Spoke Tension you intend, then rotate the nipple back to help relieve the
Consider that spokes are really just long thin bolts with windup. It is common to still end up with some windup in the
nipples as the nuts. These are no different than other wheel. The safest method to relieve this torsional stress on
fasteners. Like any threaded fastener, there is an acceptable the spoke is to simply ride the bike. You may hear an initial
range of tightness, which is called tension. Spoke tension is popping or pinging sound while the spokes untwist. In some
the amount of force pulling on the spoke. Although spoke cases, it will be necessary to true the wheel again laterally.
tension increases as the nipple is turned and tightened, it is Spoke tension is best measured with a spoke tension
not useful to measure the torque of the nut (nipple) because meter (also called a tensiometer), such as the Park Tool
there are more direct ways to measure spoke tension. TM-1 Tension Meter. It is possible, to some degree, to
As the wheels rotate while you ride, the spokes that are on “feel” the tension by squeezing crossing or parallel spokes.
the bottom, next to the ground, will momentarily lose their The squeezing technique can, however, be deceiving and
tension level then regain tension as they rotate past this inconsistent. The stiffness of rims and thickness of spokes
low point. This change of tension in each revolution is called vary widely. A tension meter allows the user to determine
a “stress cycle.” Wheels with a relatively low overall spoke both relative spoke tension between spokes and the tension
tension actually endure a greater swing in tension compared force of each spoke. The TM-1 Spoke Tension Meter is a tool
to wheels with greater overall tension. Stress cycles, the that includes a chart to determine the amount of pulling
loosening and retightening of tension, fatigue the metal and force, measured in kilograms force (abbreviated as “kgf”). The
lead to spoke breakage. Wheels with low overall spoke tension TM-1 is designed to read tension for many different types of
will continue to loosen even more as the bike is ridden. This spokes, including titanium, aluminum, and bladed shapes
results in shortened spoke life, more spoke failure, and a (figure 5.22).
wheel that requires continuous truing. FIGURE 5.22
While low overall spoke tension results in problems, too
much tension can also cause issues. Spokes with too much
tension can deform or crack the rim near the nipple holes
(figure 5.21). Too much tension can also lead to failure of the
hub flange. Spoke nipple wrench flats can become deformed
and rounded by forcing the nipple to turn when the spoke
tension is too high. However, the spoke itself can typically
take more stress than rim, nipple, or hub flange.
FIGURE 5.21
Park Tool TM-1 Tension Meter flexing spoke to determine tension

Rim manufacturers specify tension recommendations from
as low as 60 kgf to as high as 200 kgf. However, 100 kgf is
a common tension recommendation. It is the rim, not the
spoke type or diameter, that determines the limits of tension.
Generally, the heavier and stronger the rim, the more tension
it can handle. A light rim may weigh from 280 grams to 350
grams. A relatively heavy rim may weigh 450 grams or more.
Additionally, rim eyelets may help distribute the load on
Crack in rim from excessive spoke tension the rim wall. A lack of eyelets on a light rim implies that
60
less spoke tension should be used. There is a wide range of appropriate spoke column. This number is the tension
possible tension, and it is always best to consult the rim of the measured spoke.
manufacturer for the most up-to-date specifications. For the most accurate wheel average measurement, measure
Manufacturers typically give specifications for the wheel all spokes on one side, total the deflection readings, and
with no tire pressure. Tire pressure will have the effect of divide by the number of readings taken. However, only
lowering the tension slightly. Generally, do not try to account measuring one-quarter of the wheel will give you a good idea
for this drop by adding more tension than recommended by of the overall tension. If you have a 32-spoke wheel, measure
the manufacturer. Parts makers list tension for the tight side eight spokes and calculate their average tension.
of the wheel. For rear wheels, this will be the sprocket side Spoke tension will vary slightly from spoke to spoke even
or right side. For front wheels with a disc, the tighter side is in a well-trued wheel. A wheel that has the same relative
the disc side. If the flanges are equally spaced from the hub tension for all the spokes on a flange, however, will tend to
center, then either side can be measured. This is the case for stay true longer. The use of a spoke tension meter will help
most front wheels made without a disc rotor mount. get the spokes closer to the same relative tension. Generally,
The TM-1 Tension Meter includes a Conversion Table that attempt to get the spokes within 20 percent of one another.
is used to determine the pulling force on the spoke. The tool On wheels with dish (rear wheel or front disc wheels), the left
presses on a spoke to flex it. The pointer of the tool is used to and right side tensions will not be equal. This is normal and
determine a “deflection reading.” This reading is used along will not be a problem for the wheel.
with the appropriate spoke column to give a reading of the As you use the TM-1 from spoke to spoke along the same
pulling force on the spoke, the spoke tension. hub flange, notice some spokes are tighter relative to others.
To use the TM-1 Tension Meter it is necessary to know both You can use a marker to write the reading on the rim for
the type of material in the spoke and the diameter of the reference. It is common to see a tight spoke adjacent to
spoke. Most spokes are steel and many are stainless steel. relatively loose spoke, both coming from the same flange. The
Stainless steel will usually be very weakly magnetic when tighter spoke is pulling more on the rim to keep it straight
tested. Aluminum spokes will have a different feel and look, at the section of the rim relative to the lesser tension spoke.
as will titanium, and are not magnetic. The idea of tension balancing is to loosen the tighter spoke a
The tool includes a simple diameter gauge used for round little, then tighten the neighboring spokes on the same flange
spokes only. The smallest slot the spoke fits into determines a little to maintain lateral true. With practice it is possible
the diameter. The diameter at the middle section of spoke will to make the rim laterally true while keeping the spokes
determine the appropriate column on the Conversion Table. relatively close in tension. This procedure helps in producing
If the spoke is butted at the ends, the tool is deflecting only a wheel that stays true and straight longer. It also helps
the middle, so only consider the middle of the spoke for the maximize spoke life as the stress of riding is evenly shared
Table. For a bladed spoke, it is necessary to use a measuring between them.
caliper to measure the spoke’s width and thickness. Another technique to determine relative spoke tension is
Using the Conversion Table, find the column corresponding to pluck spokes like the strings of a musical instrument. You
to the material and diameter of the spoke being measured. can also use a small hex wrench or a spoke to “thump” the
For bladed spokes measure the width and thickness of the spokes. Two spokes the same length and same tension should
spoke. Follow the column down to the row corresponding have the same pitch. Like any technique, there are tolerances.
to the spoke’s deflection reading (as determined in step “d” This technique does not tell you absolute pulling force in kgf,
below). The number at this intersection is the actual tension but it will point to spokes that are tensioned very differently.
of the spoke in kilograms force (kgf). For bladed steel spokes
that are not listed on the Conversion Table, use the on-line BROKEN & DAMAGED SPOKE REPLACEMENT
Conversion Table generator at www.parktool.com. A broken spoke will cause the wheel to come out of true. It
Procedure for tension measurement with TM-1 tensiometer: may be possible to correct lateral true enough to keep riding
a. Determine the material and spoke dimension near the until the spoke can be replaced. However, low spoke-count
middle of the spoke. Find the correct column on the wheels (28 spokes or less) may develop substantial lateral
Conversion Table included with the TM-1. runout from a single broken spoke. It may not be possible
b. Squeeze the TM-1 at the handle grips. Place the spoke to correct the runout enough to safely finish a ride even by
between the two fixed posts and the moveable post. opening the rim brake calipers. Disc hub wheels will allow for
With butted spokes, position the posts so they rest on more lateral error, but if the tire is striking the frame or fork,
the narrowest portion of each spoke. With aero/bladed it should be trued as well as possible to prevent contact with
spokes, position the posts so they rest against the wide, the frame or the fork.
flat side of the spoke. To repair a wheel with a broken spoke, begin by removing
c. Gently release the handle. Releasing the tension rapidly the tire. On rear wheels, also remove the rear sprockets.
will cause erratic reading results. Remove the old spoke from the wheel and hub. The new spoke
d. With the TM-1 engaged on the spoke, the pointer should be the correct length. If possible, measure the old spoke
will be pointing to a number on the tool’s scale. This or remove a second spoke for measurement. Feed the new
number is a deflection reading. Use this number on spoke through the hub in the same orientation as the original
the Conversion Table and find where it meets the spoke. The spoke head should similarly face inward or outward
www.parktool.com 61
FIGURE 5.23 spokes appear tight, the rim metal is bent. This indicates the
rim has been deformed beyond the point where spoke tension
can repair it (figure 5.24).
Bicycle rims may be made from aluminum, carbon fiber, or
steel. Steel and aluminum are metals that bend under extreme
stresses and impacts. Carbon fiber may also fail, but typically
will not become permanently deformed until it breaks. A
deformed metal rim in theory may seem repairable by simply
“bending it back”. However, in practice this rarely works well.
The metal hardens when bent and will harden again when re-
bent back into shape.
Adjusting spoke tension on a wheel with a badly bent rim
is unlikely to help, except possibly to get the rider home from
Bend spoke to lace into wheel a ride. Trying to bash the rim or attempting to re-bend the
in the flange. It may be necessary to flex and bend the spoke, rim back in the problem area is a desperate repair measure.
but avoid kinking it (figure 5.23). Inspect another spoke of the It’s unlikely to help return the wheel to a useable condition.
same flange and same orientation and follow the same pattern. Wheel rims can be replaced, and a new rim is easily laced
Replace the nipple as well as the spoke. If possible, use a around the old hub. See a professional mechanic for this
spoke tension meter to measure spokes on the same side as service or purchase a new wheel.
the broken spoke and average the readings. Tighten the new In bicycles with rim caliper brakes, brake pads grab and
spoke until it reaches the average. True the wheel with the grind the rim walls, thinning the metal. The pressurized tire
procedures described above. is held in place by the rim sidewalls, which become weakened
over time. Thin sidewalls may fail during a ride, causing a tire
WHEEL WEAR, DAMAGE, & REPAIR blowout. Inspect visually, and feel the rim-braking surface for
Rims may become damaged from impacts, such as hitting a dished, concave surface. If the rim appears worn, remove
rocks, potholes, or curbs. Crashing or impacting the side of the tire and place a straight edge along the rim surface.
the rim in a fall can also cause irreparable damage. Truing Inspect for a gap between the straight edge and the rim. If
may afford a limited repair for crashed wheels. Begin by the gap is larger than 0.2 mm (approximately the thickness
checking relative tension in the damaged area. For example, of a business card), the rim should be replaced (figure 5.25).
if a wheel deviates in one section to the right, check left Modern rims often come with a machined groove as a wear
and right side spoke tension in that area. If the wheel runs indicator. Replace the rim when this groove disappears from
right even though right side spokes appear loose and left side rim wear.
Wheel rim deformed beyond repair Rim showing unacceptable wear on braking surface
62
6 Pedals
Pedals
CHAPTER 6 PEDALS
P edals are mechanisms attached to the ends of the

cranks. Pedals come in a variety of designs for specialty
uses. The “platform” pedal is a simple flat pedal and
may be used with any recreational street shoe. Toe clips can
be added to many of these pedals that act as cages to help
c. Place wrench securely onto pedal wrench flats. For
hex wrenches, fully secure wrench into back of pedal.
Reposition wrench until crank and wrench form an
angle of 90 degrees or less. Use opposite crank for extra
leverage. Correct mechanical advantage is critical on
retention the foot to the pedal. “Clipless” pedals require pedals, which are often overly tight. When possible, grab
shoes fitted with special cleats. Clipless pedals use retention opposite crank for second lever.
mechanisms that attach the shoe to the pedal. Lightly d. Turn pedal wrench counter-clockwise (as seen from
lubricate clipless pedals at cleat engagement pivot points. outboard of pedaling looking inward) to remove right
Occasionally check the security of all threaded fasteners on pedal. Use care not to cut hand on crank or chainring.
the pedal cage and body. Note that loosening both the right and left side pedal
can be seen as pedaling forward while the wrench
PEDAL REMOVAL engages the pedal flats (figure 6.2).
Pedals are removed from the cranks to service the axle FIGURE 6.2
bearings, pack the bike for shipment, or change pedals. Most
pedals have narrow wrench flats on the pedal axles adjacent
to the crank. The common wrench size is 15 mm. While pedal
wrenches appear to be similar to cone wrenches, use a proper
pedal wrench, not a cone wrench, for the narrow wrench
flats on a pedal. A pedal requires much greater tightening
torque than a cone wrench can deliver. Use of the wrong
wrench may damage both pedal and wrench. Pedals may also
use a hex fitting at the end of the spindle behind the cranks
(figure 6.1). Use a long-handled hex wrench for removal and
installation. When working on pedals, rotate the bike in a
repair stand to find good leverage.
Pedal in a forward direction to remove pedals from cranks
FIGURE 6.1
e. Remove pedal completely from crank. Inspect for any
pedal washer on crank or pedal spindle.
f. Rotate bike as necessary until left pedal is easily accessed.
g. Engage pedal wrench onto left pedal and grab right crank
for second lever. Position wrench and crank for good
mechanical advantage.
h. Turn pedal wrench clockwise to remove left pedal or turn
crank so the pedal is pedaling forward.
i. Remove left pedal completely from crank. Inspect for any
pedal washer on crank or pedal spindle.
PEDAL INSTALLATION
Pedal wrench fitting is at end of pedal spindle and is behind crank The common pedal thread for aluminum cranks is ⁹⁄₁₆ inch
The right side (drive side) pedal uses a right-hand thread. It x 20 tpi. The pedal thread of the steel one-piece crank is
removes counter-clockwise and installs clockwise. The left side ½ inch x 20 tpi. Pedal threads tend to be made of bearing-
(non-drive side) pedal uses a left-hand thread. It will remove hard steel and are relatively difficult to damage. However,
clockwise and install counter-clockwise. This thread difference minor pedal thread damage may be repaired with a thread file.
prevents the pedals from rotating loose. As the pedal turns Pedal threads can damage the aluminum threads of the crank
during riding, the bearings on the pedal body reverse the if the threads are misaligned. Start initial threading with only
direction of load on the spindle. Pedals are commonly marked your fingers to avoid forcing the pedal into the crank threads.
with an “R” on the right side pedal and an “L” on the left Using a pedal wrench to start the thread will not allow the feel
side pedal. The left pedal may also have “hash marks” on the necessary to detect cross threading of the pedal.
spindle to mark as different from the right. It is also possible Some cranks require the use of a “pedal washer”. This is a
to view the thread angle to determine which is the left thin washer to protect the crank. These are especially useful
threaded and right threaded pedal. to prevent gouging carbon fiber cranks. The washer will have
Procedure for pedal removal: a low profile and is placed between the pedal and crank
a. Mount bike in repair stand and shift chain to largest (figure 6.3).
chainring. This helps protect against cuts from Pedals are secured to a relatively high torque range,
chainring teeth. approximately 34 Nm (300 inch-pounds). As an example
b. Rotate bike until right pedal is easily accessed. Reach of effort on the wrench, assume the wrench is grabbed 8
over or through frame as necessary for best leverage. inches (20 cm) from the pedal. It would require an effort of
66
PEDALS CHAPTER 6
FIGURE 6.3 wrench flats, hold wrench with one hand while holding
pedal with other. Rotate the cranks and pedal assembly
backward to install quickly.
e. Arrange pedal and crank for best mechanical advantage.
Use opposite arm as second lever (figure 6.4). Tighten
pedal fully.
f. Repeat for left pedal by threading pedal counter-
clockwise to install.
g. Fully secure left pedal. For pedals with external wrench
flats, hold wrench with one hand while holding pedal
with other. Rotate the cranks and pedal assembly
backward to install quickly.
Pedal washer for a carbon fiber crank DAMAGE TO CRANK PEDAL THREADS
approximately 35 pounds (16 kg) force. Grease or anti-seize If the crank threads are damaged, the pedal may be difficult
on the threads is recommended to prevent pedal thread to install. To repair thread, use an appropriate sized tap,
corrosion and seizing to the crank arm. either ⁹⁄₁₆ in. x 20 tpi or ½ in. x 20 tpi, and chase the threads
Procedure for pedal installation: in the crank. Begin the tap from the backside of the crank to
a. Identify right and left pedals. Look for “L” or “R” use the undamaged threads for best alignment.
marking on pedal axle or wrench flats. If no “L” or “R” If a pedal has come loose and fallen out, the outer thread of
marking is seen, use pedal thread direction to identify the crank hole may be mangled and damaged. Use a pedal tap
pedals. Left-threaded pedals (threads sloping upward to align thread. However, a tap will not restore metal that has
to the left) fit the left crank. Right-threaded pedals been removed or torn away. If the threads are questionable,
(threads sloping upward to the right) fit the right crank. install and tighten the pedal. If the pedal pulls up properly at
b. Apply grease or anti-seize to threads of both pedals. full torque, it will be useable.
Install pedal washer if appropriate. If the pedal threads in the crank are damaged beyond
c. Thread right side pedal into right crank using only your a tap repair, they may be repairable using a thread insert
fingers to avoid cross threading. system. Solid aluminum cranks may be repaired by being
d. Engage pedal wrench to flats (or inside hex fitting) and drilled or tapped to a large thread. A special bushing is
fully thread pedal into arm. For pedals with external then installed with an internal ⁹⁄₁₆ inch thread. This repair
FIGURE 6.4 is best left to professional mechanics. If the arm is carbon
fiber or is a hollow aluminum design, this repair may not
be possible. Because cranks are available individually as a
replacement part, replacement of the arm is often the less
expensive option.
PEDAL BEARING SERVICE

The bearing systems in pedals are similar to other rotational
bearings on the bike. The axle is attached to the crank and
rotates inside the pedal body. Bearing service is possible on
some brands and models, but others are simply thrown away
when bearings become excessively worn.
The procedure for bearing service varies between pedal
Good mechanical advantage for securing pedals brands and is reviewed at www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help.
www.parktool.com 67
7 Cranksets
Cranksets
CHAPTER 7 CRANKSETS
C ranks are levers that connect the pedals to the bottom

bracket spindle. The cranks are fitted with toothed
sprockets called chainrings that drive the chain. Cranks
may be removed to replace cranks or chainrings, service the
An older design called the “one-piece” crank was used once
used on USA made Schwinn bikes. It is still seen on BMX bikes
and some inexpensive bikes. A single S-shaped forged arm is
fitted in a large unthreaded shell. Service of the one-piece
bottom bracket bearings, or to clean the chainrings. Crank crank is reviewed at www.parktool.com/repair-help.
systems have become more complex in recent years. To know In the two-piece and three-piece crank systems there are
the service options you will need to know the type of crank and different standards for the spindle-to-crank interface. Many
type of bottom bracket bearing system installed in the bicycle. of the newer cranks use proprietary designs and do not
interchange between brands or even different models of the
CRANK TYPES same brand. It may be necessary to remove the crank bolt or
Common modern crank designs include “three-piece” and cap to inspect inside the arm to confirm the type of interface.
“two-piece” crank systems. The parts of the three-piece The tapered square spindle interface is usually found on
crankset are the left arm, the right arm, and the axle spindle less expensive bikes, older bikes, and “classic” bikes (figure
(figure 7.1). The spindle is held in position by bearings in the 7.3). It is a three-piece crank system, with the spindle end
frame. Both cranks must be removed to service or replace the formed as a square stud made with a slight taper. The spindle
bearings of a three-piece system. Both left and right cranks fits a corresponding square tapered hole in the crank. There
will have crank bolts in the arms. are two standards for spindle tapers. The JIS standard is used
FIGURE 7.1 on Shimano® cranks, and many Asian-made cranks. The ISO
standard is used by Miche® and Campagnolo® square spindle
cranks. These two standards should not be mixed when
choosing spindles or cranks.
FIGURE 7.3
Three-piece crank components: right crank with chainrings,

left crank and the spindle
Two-piece crank designs include systems such as the
Shimano® Hollowtech® II, Campagnolo® Ultra-Torque®
and Power Torque™, SRAM® GXP®, Race Face® X-Type™, Square crank hole with square spindle inside
FSA® MegaExo®, and other similar systems. The spindle is “ISIS Drive” is a three-piece crank system using a round
permanently fixed on one crank, making it effectively one spindle with splines at the crank spindle interface (figure
piece of the system. The second piece is simply the other 7.4). The term ISIS Drive does not refer to a particular brand
crank. The spindle is passed through the bearings in the but to a design standard. Several manufacturers offer cranks
frame and the opposite crank is bolted to the spindle (figure in the ISIS Drive standard, and all ISIS Drive cranks and
7.2). The bearings are not part of the crank or spindle. Two- spindles interchange. This system uses a 21 mm diameter
piece cranks will have a crank bolt on one arm and no crank spindle with 10-splines.
removal bolt on the opposite crank. Octalink® is a three-piece crank system used in some
Shimano® cranks. It is a round spindle nominally 21 mm
FIGURE 7.2
FIGURE 7.4
Two-piece crank components: left and right crank,

one with an integrated spindle. ISIS Drive crank with 10 splines
70
CRANKSETS CHAPTER 7
in diameter but with an eight-splined pattern (figure 7.5). SELF-EXTRACTING CRANK SYSTEMS
There are two standards in the Shimano® 0ctalink® system. Both the two-piece and the three-piece cranks may be
The original standard is called 0ctalink® V1, and was used on fitted with “self-extracting” or “one-key” release systems. The
models BB-7700, 6500, 5500, M950, and M952. The 0ctalink® crank puller is effectively built into the crank (figure 7.7). A
V2 fits the BB-ES70/71 and BB-ES50/51. The V2 system uses a threaded cap with a hole in the center takes the place of the
thicker and longer spline (approximately 9 mm), while the V1 crank dust cap and is threaded over the crank bolt to act as
spline is relatively narrower and shorter (approximately 5 mm). bolt-retaining ring. To remove this crank, leave the crank cap
The V1 and V2 Octalink® standards do not interchange between in place. Turn the crank bolt counter-clockwise. The crank
spindles or cranks. The ISIS Drive and Shimano® 0ctalink® bolt backs against the crank cap and will then pull the arm
systems are not interchangeable for cranks or spindles. from the spindle.
Shimano® Octalink® crank and spindle interface at the left arm Self-extracting crank with hex wrench in place for removal
FIGURE 7.6 If the retaining ring has been removed, it should be

reinstalled and retightened. Retaining ring threading varies
with manufacturer. If the ring was 22 mm diameter thread,
you may substitute a crank puller tool such as the Park Tool
CWP-7. Retaining rings made in larger thread diameters have
no other separate crank puller tool option available. Use the
manufacturer’s retaining ring for crank removal.
Self-extracting systems rely on the cap being secure and
tight in the crank. The cap should be occasionally checked
for tightness (figure 7.8). The thread is normally a right-hand
thread. If the cap is a left-hand thread, it is typically marked
accordingly and must be tightened counter-clockwise.
FIGURE 7.8
The SRAM® Power Spline™ system and Park Tool CWP-7 Crank Puller
The Power Spline™ crank system is three-piece proprietary
design by SRAM® that uses a round spindle crank interface
with 12 splines (figure 7.6). A similar system is Power Drive™
by FSA®. Both systems use a sight taper to the splined spindles
but the two systems do not interchange. Both brands can be
removed with the Park Tool CWP-7 or CCP-22 crank puller.
CRANK REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

This section will review crank removal and installation
for some common crank brands. There are also proprietary
systems that are variations on these designs. When in doubt
contact the crank manufacturer for removal procedures. Check security of self-extracting retaining ring using a Park Tool SPA-2
Bearing service is performed after cranks are removed and is Self-extracting systems require extra care when installing
covered on page 79. the crank to the spindle. The self-extracting system makes it
The removal procedure for a two-piece crank varies with difficult to see how the arm is fitting onto the splines of the
the manufacturer. However, some brands and models share spindle. Cranks and spindles must align and mate properly as
design concepts and are removed and installed with similar the crank is pressed onto the spindle. A forced mismatch can
procedures. In a two-piece system, one crank has the spindle damage the crank. Splined cranks without the self-extracting
permanently mounted. The opposite arm must be removed cap system allow easy viewing of the crank to spline fit. If
first, and then the remaining crank is pulled from the bike. there is concern about mating the spindle to the arm, remove
www.parktool.com 71
CHAPTER 7 CRANKSETS
the self-extracting cap, install the crank, and reinstall the CWP-7 crank pullers. Square taper cranks, Power Drive™, and
retaining ring. Spline Drive™ use the CCP-22 or the CWP-7 with the smaller
To install the self-extracting crank system, inspect both pressing foot.
the crank fitting and spindle for the pattern of “tooth” and Procedure for crank removal:
“groove.” The tooth of the spindle must mate with the groove a. Shift chain to largest chainring. This helps protects
(space) in the crank fitting (figure 7.9). With crank pointing hands from chainring teeth.
straight down to the six o’clock position, rotate spindle so it b. Remove crank bolt or nut. Remove any washers inside the
matches appropriately with the crank fitting. Use appropriate crank that were below bolt/nut.
size hex wrench to rotate crank bolt clockwise. Thread c. Inspect crank bolt and select correct tool. Cranks with
carefully as you maintain alignment. Secure crank bolt fully. M8 crank bolts use the CCP-22 or CWP-7 with small tip.
Mount second crank pointing the opposite direction with the The larger M12 and M14 bolts use the CCP-44 or CWP-7
same procedure and tighten fully. with larger tip.
FIGURE 7.9 d. Turn stud of puller until it sits recessed in the hex fitting
of the tool. This permits full engagement of 22 mm
thread into arm.
e. Thread crank puller into arm (figure 7.10). The 22 mm
thread fitting must be fully threaded into arm before
pulling arm. Failure to fully engage the tool’s threads in
the crank arm may result in damage to the arm.
FIGURE 7.10
“Tooth” (A) of spindle must align with “groove” (B) at crank interface
THREE-PIECE CRANKS: OCTALINK®, ISIS DRIVE,

SQUARE SPINDLE, POWER SPLINE™, AND
POWER DRIVE™
Three-piece cranks are held in place by force from well-
torqued crank bolts or nuts. To remove the crank, these bolts
or nuts must first be removed. The hex wrench size for crank Thread and tighten puller securely into fitting before extracting crank
bolts can vary from 6 mm, 8 mm, or 10 mm. If a hex headed FIGURE 7.11
bolt or nut is used, it may be a 14 mm, 15 mm, or 16 mm
depending upon the brand.
Cranks without a self-extracting system require a crank
puller to extract the arm from the spindle after the crank
bolt is removed. Cranks are commonly made with an internal
thread fitting to match the crank puller. The puller uses a
22 mm x 1 mm external thread to secure to the crank. The
puller then uses a threaded stud to push against the spindle
end. The spindle and arm are pulled apart when the puller
stud presses with force against the spindle.
The crank puller must be compatible with the spindle type.
The puller stud that pushes on the spindle must be slightly
larger than the threaded hole in the spindle end. ISIS Drive Remove crank from spindle by turning internal driver of crank puller
and Octalink® systems use a larger bolt (12 mm or 14 mm), f. Turn stud clockwise (figure 7.11). When stud meets
so these cranks use a puller stud tip with a diameter of spindle, resistance will be felt. Continue threading stud
approximately 16 mm. Square spindle, Power Drive™, and into puller until crank is removed.
Power Spline™ systems use an 8 mm bolt thread and the g. Unthread crank puller tool from crank and repeat process
puller end will be approximately 11 mm diameter. on other crank.
Park Tool offers different puller options depending upon Three-piece cranks use a bolt or nut that acts as the pressing
the spindle. ISIS Drive and Octalink® cranks use the CCP-44 or tool and forces the arms tight to the spindle end. The bolt or
72
CRANKSETS CHAPTER 7
nut must be tight enough to keep the arm from loosening but FIGURE 7.13
not so tight that the arm becomes split or damaged. The bolt
may need 25 to 38 Nm (300 to 450 inch-pounds) depending
upon brand. Whenever possible, use a torque wrench for this
installation. If a crank bolt comes loose and the arm falls off,
the cause is likely to be a lack of torque during installation.
Square tapered spindles are made with a slight slope or
taper. This shape creates a wedge as it is driven into the
square hole of the crank. Generally this fit is not lubricated.
Adequate torque is typically enough to keep arms from
creaking. If a crank creaks even at full torque, remove and
grease the pressed surfaces.
Splined type spindle systems such as ISIS Drive and
0ctalink® lack the taper of the square spindles. The splines Remove crank cap after pinch bolts are loose
should be well greased before installation. FIGURE 7.14
Procedure for crank installation:
a. Grease or anti-seize under head and threads of bolts/nuts.
b. For square tapered spindle, leave spindle clean of grease.
Grease (or anti-seize) the splines of spline type spindles.
c. Install right crank onto right side of spindle. Thread in
bolt to spindle. Self-extracting models align tooth and
groove of spindle and crank when installing.
d. Tighten bolt fully to manufacturer’s specifications. Refer
to Appendix C for recommended torques.
e. Align left arm so it points directly opposite the right
arm. Self-extracting models align tooth and groove of
spindle and crank when installing. Thread bolt into
spindle and tighten bolt fully. Lift stop plate to pull off Shimano® left cranks
f. Grease threads of dust cap (if any), and install snugly. c. For Shimano® Hollowtech® II, inspect for a “stop
plate” inside the left arm slot (figure 7.14). Use a thin
TWO-PIECE COMPRESSION SLOTTED CRANKS: screwdriver or cone wrench to lift this plate upward. The
SHIMANO® AND FSA® stop plate acts as a safety redundancy to prevent left arm
Shimano® cranks and some models of FSA® cranks use a
removal. FSA® has no stop plate.
left crank with a compression slot that is secured by pinch
d. Pull arm off spindle by hand. In some cases it may
bolts. These systems do not use a conventional crank puller.
require light tapping with a soft mallet to remove arm if
A threaded cap is used to bring the arm against the bearings.
spindle-arm interface is dirty or sticky.
The cap acts as a bearing adjustment only and does not hold
e. Pull crank to the right and remove it from the bike. It
the arm in place.
may be necessary to use a mallet to tap the spindle on
Procedure for crank removal:
the left side.
a. Loosen fully any pinch bolts on left side crank (figure 7.12). The left arms of these crank systems are used to adjust
b. Remove the left side crank cap counter-clockwise. the bottom bracket bearings. The left arm slides along
Shimano® cranks use an eight-pointed socket fitting. Use the spindle and is retained and located by tightening an
the Park Tool BBT-9 or BBT-10 (figure 7.13). FSA® crank end cap on the crank, much like a threadless headset cap
caps use a 8 mm hex wrench. adjusts threadless headset bearings. The bolts in the arm are
FIGURE 7.12 tightened to keep the arm from falling off and to maintain
the bearing adjustment.
a. Grease spindle surface and install drive side crank and
spindle from the right side and through both bearings
(figure 7.15). If necessary use a mallet to fully install arm.
b. Grease threads of arm pinch bolts.
c. Place drive side crank in the six o’clock position. Hold
left side arm in twelve o’clock position and press arm
onto spindle using hand pressure. Lift stop plate of
Shimano® crank over pinch bolt. Make sure stop plate is
engaged over pinch bolt threads after crank is installed.
d. Grease threads of crank cap and secure gently. For
Loosen pinch bolts of compression slotted crank
Shimano® use the BBT-10 or BBT-9. For FSA® use an 8 mm
www.parktool.com 73
CHAPTER 7 CRANKSETS
FIGURE 7.15 the arm and the bearing. The wave washer flexes between the
crank and bearing and prevents lateral motion of the spindle
by pressing against the bearings and crank.
a. Loosen crank bolt in left arm. Do not remove arm-
retaining ring. Allow crank bolt to pull arm from spindle.
b. Note orientation of any spacers, seals, or wave washers
(FSA®) before removing (figure 7.17).
c. Pull arm from right side to remove. Tap spindle end with
mallet if necessary to aid removal.
d. Note orientation of any spacers, seals, or wave washers
from right side crank before removing (SRAM®).
If necessary, choke up on mallet handle and tap arm fully a. Grease spindle where it inserts into bearings.
into bottom bracket
b. Grease splines of spindle and grease internal threads
FIGURE 7.16 of crank.
c. Install any seals, spacers, and wave washers (SRAM®) as
appropriate on crank. Install crank and spindle through
bottom bracket.
d. Install any spacers, seals, and wave washers (FSA®) on
left side.
e. Install and tighten left arm (figure 7.18).
FIGURE 7.18
Tighten by alternating sides until both bolts are pulled fully tight
hex wrench. Cap pushes arm to bearing. Recommended
cap torque is only a very light 0.5 Nm (4 inch-pounds).
Crank should not push into bearing with force.
Overtightening will cause bearings to drag and wear.
e. Tighten each compression bolt slightly in turn as you
move between bolts repeatedly to ensure both are fully
and evenly tight (figure 7.16). Tighten arm full against stop of splined spindle
TWO-PIECE CRANKS USING WAVE WASHER: TWO-PIECE SELF-EXTRACTING CRANKS:

FSA® MEGAEXO® AND SRAM® GXP® PF TRUVATIV®, SRAM® GXP®
The FSA® MegaExo® and the SRAM® GXP® PF (BB86) use a The SRAM® and Truvativ® Giga X Pipe (GXP®) drive side
“wave washer” to maintain a bearing adjustment. The crank bearing has a rubber lip that compresses as the arms are
arm uses a self-extracting system and is tightened fully to a pressed. As the left arm is tightened onto the spindle, it
dead stop against the end of the splines. The wave washer is compresses into the lip to apply pressure to the bearings.
a thin piece of spring steel with deformities that fits between There is no wave washer or compression slot to adjust against
FIGURE 7.17 the bearings. These crank systems rely on pressure from the
arm on the rubber lip to remove bearing play.
a. Inspect both sides of crank for self-extracting crank bolt.
A retaining ring will cover self-extracting bolt. Turn bolt
in center of retaining ring counter-clockwise to pull one
crank from the spindle.
b. Pull the remaining crank and spindle from the frame.
If necessary, use a soft mallet with care to remove the
crank and spindle from the bike.
a. Grease the splines and surface of the spindle.
b. Insert crank and spindle through the right side bearing
Wave washer between arm and bearing and out left side.
74
CRANKSETS CHAPTER 7
Secure GXP® arm Reset the adjusting ring against the arm before installing crank
FIGURE 7.20 c. Install opposite crank and tighten crank bolt fully.
d. Turn threaded bearing adjustment ring away from left
crank arm and toward bearings. Turn by hand only until
ring contacts bearings. Don’t overtighten adjustment ring.
e. Secure setscrew on adjustment ring (figure 7.22 and
figure 7.23).
f. Check arms for lateral play. Use adjustment ring if play is
present, tightening against the bearing only ⅟₁₆ to ⅛
turn. Retighten setscrew and check for lateral play again.
FIGURE 7.22
Hold frame with one hand and pull crank side-to-side checking for play
c. Install left arm onto spindle end. Tighten to a torque of
48 Nm (figure 7.19).
d. Check for play by pulling laterally on cranks. If there
is play, tighten arm slightly (⅟₁₆ to ⅛ turn) and check
again for play (figure 7.20). Repeat if necessary.
TWO-PIECE PRE-LOAD ADJUSTER NUT

CRANKS: TRUVATIV®, SRAM® BB30 I-A, AND
FSA® AFTERBURNER™ SRAM® adjusting ring system with locking setscrew
The BB30 I-A crank series from SRAM® and the FSA® FIGURE 7.23
Afterburner™ use a 30 mm diameter spindle for use in the
BB30 bottom bracket bearing systems.
a. Use a hex wrench to remove bolt in the left arm. Common
hex size is 10 mm for these models. Note that opposite
cap is marked “do not remove.” This side was used to
assemble crank to spindle and should not be removed.
b. Loosen bolt until arm is free from spindle.
c. Pull crank from bike. Tap spindle with mallet if necessary
to help remove arm.
Bearing adjustment is made after the arm is mounted and
fully secured. The left arm has a threaded bearing adjustment
ring that turns against the bottom bracket bearing face to FSA® Afterburner™ crank with adjusting ring and setscrew
remove play and to stop the arms from moving side to side. It
is only necessary to snug the ring against the bearing face. Do CAMPAGNOLO® AND FULCRUM® ULTRA-
not force the ring into the bearings. TORQUE® CRANKS
Procedure for crank installation: Both left and right cranks of the Campagnolo® and
a. Loosen setscrew on bearing adjustment ring. Turn ring Fulcrum® Ultra-Torque® are fitted with one-half each of the
clockwise until fully threaded against crank (figure 7.21). spindle system. Each end of the spindle is machined in a gear
b. Insert crank spindle through bearings. shape to mate with the opposite arm. The spindle end teeth
www.parktool.com 75
CHAPTER 7 CRANKSETS
engage in the middle of the bottom bracket shell. A bearing FIGURE 7.26
is pressed tight to the spindle of each arm. The cups act as a
retainer for the bearings on the cranks.
Bearing removal and replacement for the Ultra-Torque® system
requires special tooling. See below for bearing service.
a. Use needle nose pliers to remove the bearing-retaining
clip from the right side bearing adaptor (figure 7.24).
FIGURE 7.24
Install arm and wave washer into left side into left side adaptor
CAMPAGNOLO® POWER TORQUE™ CRANKS

The Campagnolo® Power Torque™ system uses a spindle
Remove bearing-retaining clip from adaptor permanently fixed to the right arm. The crank bolt presses the
FIGURE 7.25 left arm secure to the splines of the spindle. The Power Torque™
left arm has no threads or fittings designed in the system for
crank removal. Gear pullers, such as the Park Tool combination
CBP-3 and CBP-5 must be used to remove the left arm. The
bearing puller from the CBP-3 must be used in conjunction
with the CBP-5 to service the Power Torque™ crank. The carbon
fiber arms are a different shape compared to aluminum arms
and require a slightly different removal procedure. Bearing
service of the Power Torque™ system is covered on page 84.
a. Remove the spring clip from the drive-side bearing
adaptor (figure 7.27). The crank cannot be removed with
this clip in place.
Remove crank bolt with 10mm hex key
FIGURE 7.27
b. Use a long 10 mm hex wrench to loosen and remove the
crank bolt from the center of the spindle (figure 7.25).
c. Pull each arm from the bottom bracket.
d. Remove the wavy washer from left bearing adaptor.
Bearing service for the Ultra-Torque® system is covered on
page 83. Bearing adjustments for this system are part of crank
installation from the pressure of the wave washer in the left
side bearing adaptor. The wave washer is a round thin piece of
spring steel that has a series of undulating bends. The wave
washer is partially compressed and acts as a spring between
the arm and bearing and prevents lateral movement of the
crank spindle.
Procedure for crank installation: Remove clip from drive side adaptor
a. Install wave washer into left bearing adaptor, or place b. Remove crank bolt using a 14 mm hex wrench. Inspect
wave washer on left arm. inside arm for any washer and remove.
b. Install right arm through right adaptor. Align left arm c. Aluminum arms: Slide the plastic molded pad onto
opposite of right arm and install through left bearing the crank. Install the extension plug into the spindle
adaptor (figure 7.26). (figure 7.28). Carbon arms: Install fiberboard pad behind
c. Apply grease or anti-seize to threads of crank bolt and arm to minimize scratching and install extension plug
install through right side axle center. (figure 7.29).
d. Secure bolt fully. d. Engage the puller from the CBP-3 bearing puller set.
e. Install bearing retaining clip to right adaptor. Aluminum crank: caliper arms of puller fit over the
76
CRANKSETS CHAPTER 7
For aluminum arms install molded pad and extension plug Turn handle clockwise to pull arm from spindle
FIGURE 7.29 Procedure for crank installation:

a. Install crank through right side bearing adaptor.
b. Install C-clip into pin-holes of right side bearing adaptor.
c. Install pre-load spring and seal cover over left side bearing.
d. Apply grease or anti-seize to splines inside of crank.
Lubricate threads of crank bolt.
e. Align crank to point 180-degree opposite of drive side
arm and install on spline of crank.
f. Install crank bolt and secure.
SPECIALIZED® S-WORKS® CRANKS

Specialized® Bicycle Corporation offers a proprietary crank
system designed around the BB30 standard (figure 7.32). Special
tools are required to remove the crank. The design of the S-Works®
crank is similar in concept to Campagnolo® Ultra-Torque®.
FIGURE 7.32
Fiberboard protection in place on carbon crank

molded pad. Align puller and use knobs to remove play
from the puller fingers (figure 7.30). Ends of puller
fingers should engage the recess behind the mold. There
should be no play between fingers and puller body.
Carbon crank: insert cardboard protection behind arm
and engage puller fingers behind crank. Tighten puller
finger knobs to remove play (figure 7.30).
e. Tighten handle of puller clockwise to pull arm from
spindle (figure 7.31). Remove any seal and wave washer
from left side.
f. Remove tool from crank. Pull crank to the drive side to Specialized® crankset and BB30 bottom bracket shell
remove it from the bike. Procedure for crank removal:
FIGURE 7.30 a. Remove dust-cover from right side crank with a 6 mm
hex wrench.
b. Select the correct bit for the crank bolt. For carbon
arms, use a T40 Torx® bit that is at least 50 mm long.
Specialized® Bikes offers such a bit. For aluminum arms,
use a 6 mm hex bit at least 50 mm long.
c. Insert bit from the right side and fully loosen crank bolt.
Pull each arm from bike.
a. Grease threads of crank bolt.
b. Insert left and right cranks into bike. Arrange so arms are
180 degrees apart.
c. Thread crank bolt into left arm and secure tight.
Engage caliper fingers and secure knobs to remove play d. Install dust cover screw.
www.parktool.com 77
CHAPTER 7 CRANKSETS
The S-Works® crank uses the BB30 bearing system. The In addition to matching the bottom bracket shell, the bearing
bearing adjustment varies with the model of the S-Works®. system must be compatible with the crankset. Adaptors allow
Some models use a wave washer on the left arm. Other models some interchangeability between standards in bottom bracket
use an adjustable convex and concave cone washer system bearings and cranks.
lightly pressing against the bearings to remove lateral play.
Inspect for three small setscrews at the left arm next to the BB86 and BB92
bearing. Use a hex wrench to tighten each the same small This system is named for the width of the shell, either
amount. Check for lateral play, and continue to tighten each 86 mm or 92 mm. The shell has a smooth bore with a nominal
¼ turn until lateral play is gone. 41 mm inside diameter. The cartridge bearings themselves are
held in an adaptor of plastic or aluminum and are pressed into
BOTTOM BRACKET SYSTEM TYPES the bottom bracket shell (figure 7.34). The system is designed
The term “bottom bracket” can refer to several parts of for a crank spindle with approximately 24 mm diameter, such
the bike. The bottom bracket shell of the frame, the bottom as the Shimano® Hollowtech® II, Race Face® X-Type™, FSA®,
bracket bearings and the bottom bracket spindle (axle) are all and others. The GXP® spindle from SRAM® uses different left
part of the bottom bracket system. and right bearing inside diameters (ID). The right side bearing
The bottom bracket shell is part of the frame that houses has an ID of 24 mm; the left side has an ID of 22 mm.
the bottom bracket bearings and spindle. There are currently FIGURE 7.34
multiple bottom bracket shell designs, and the bearing system
installed must be compatible with the shell design used. It
is necessary to know the bottom bracket system to have the
correct tools and parts for service. The model of crank does
not necessarily determine the tools or procedures for the
bearing service. In some cases you may need to disassemble
the cranks to inspect the bottom bracket shell.
The two basic designs for bottom bracket shells are threaded
shells and non-threaded shells. There are numerous standards
for each.
THREADED STANDARDS
Threaded bottom bracket shells have an internal thread
to accept the external thread of the bottom bracket bearing
cup or adaptor (figure 7.33). Carbon fiber bikes with a
threaded bottom bracket shell use a metal insert for the
internal threading. The common bottom bracket shell- BB86 frame shell shown with press fit bearing
threading standard is 1.37 in. x 24 tpi. This is also referred
to as “English,” “BSC,” or “BSA.” A less common threading BB90 and BB95
standard is 36 mm x 24 tpi and is referred to as “Italian.” The Trek® Bicycle Company uses a variation of the BB86
Older thread standards no longer in production include the system that incorporates the bearing holder into the bottom
“French,” “Swiss,” and “Witworth.” bracket shell of the frame, much like an integrated headset
FIGURE 7.33 (IS). These cartridge bearings do not use an adaptor and
simply drop into either side of the bottom bracket shell,
slipping into the frame by hand (figure 7.35). The outer
diameter of the bearings is 37 mm. Bearings are available
FIGURE 7.35
Left side (non-drive) of a threaded bottom bracket shell
NON-THREADED STANDARDS
Non-threaded bottom bracket shells have a smooth inside
bore that houses the bearing system. Non-threaded bottom BB90 frame shell in a Trek® bottom bracket shell,
bracket designs have several different possible configurations. shown with cartridge bearing
78
CRANKSETS CHAPTER 7
for both 24 mm spindles and the SRAM® 24 mm and 22 mm inside diameter of the shell is 46 mm to accept the same
stepped spindle design. Trek® refers to their system as BB90 bearing adaptors from the PF30 bearing systems. The spindles
(road) and BB95 (mountain). designed for 386EVO shells are 30 mm diameter. Adaptors are
available to use the longer 386EVO cranks in the BB30, BB86,
BB30 BB92, PF30, and threaded bottom bracket shell standards.
The BB30 refers to the 30 mm diameter of the spindle Frames designed for the 386EVO must use the 386EVO crank.
commonly used on this standard. BB30 compatible bottom
bracket shells have a smooth bore with 41.95 mm inside BBright®
diameter. The shell width comes in both 68 mm (road) and BBright® is a variation of the PF3O system and was
73 mm (mountain). A cartridge bearing with a 42 mm OD developed by Cervelo® Bikes. The shell is 79 mm wide, with a
is pressed into each side of the frame shell. The bearing is 46 mm ID. Cervelo® offers cranks designed specifically for this
pressed against an internal bearing-positioning stop such as system, although adaptors are available to use other cranks
a C-clip (figure 7.36). Adaptors are available to use two-piece such as the 386EVO or the Shimano® Hollowtech® II crank in
non-BB30 cranks in the BB30 frame shells. the BBright® standard.
FIGURE 7.36 Table 7.1 provides an overview of the various standards.
There are adaptors available, however, that permit cranks
of one standard to fit the bottom bracket shell of another
standard. “Bore diameter” is the inside diameter of the
bottom bracket shell. Threading standards are listed when
applicable. Bearing ID applies only to cartridge bearings with
removable spindles. The spindle diameter must match the
inside of the cartridge bearings, but in some cases adaptors
are available to reduce larger bearing IDs to fit small spindles.
The shell width is measured from outside to outside of the
bottom bracket shell faces. Crank spindle length must be
compatible with the shell width.
TABLE 7.1 Bottom Bracket Standards
BB30 shell with C-clip bearing stops in place
STANDARD BORE THREADING BEARING SHELL WIDTH
NAME DIAMETER STANDARD ID OPTIONS
PF30
BSA/BSC/ 68, 73, 83, &
The PF30 stands for “Press Fit 30.” The frame shell has English
34 mm 1.37 in. x 24 tpi N/A
100 mm
smooth bore with approximately 46 mm inside diameter
Italian 35 mm 36 mm x 24 tpi N/A 72 mm
(figure 7.37). The shell widths are 68 mm for road bikes and
73 mm for mountain bikes. The cartridge bearings are in a BB30 42 mm No threading 30 mm 68 & 73 mm
plastic or aluminum adaptor, which is then pressed in the BB86 41 mm No threading ~24 mm 86 mm
shell. The PF30 bottom brackets accept the BB3O compatible BB90 41 mm No threading ~24 mm 90 mm
cranks with the 30 mm diameter spindles. Adaptors are
BB95 41 mm No threading ~24 mm 95 mm
available to use non-BB30 cranks in the PF30 frame shells.
30 mm
FIGURE 7.37 PF30 46 mm No threading (adaptors 68 & 73 mm
available)
BBright® 46 mm No threading 30 mm 79 mm
BB386EVO 46 mm No threading 30 mm 86.5 mm
BOTTOM BRACKET BEARING SERVICE FOR

NON-THREADED SHELLS
The cranks are attached to a spindle or axle, which is
supported by the bottom bracket bearings. These bearings see
a lot of load and wear from riding. Bottom bracket bearings
are supported by the bottom bracket shell and are usually the
lowest point of the bicycle. Any water that gets inside the
Left side (non-drive) of PF30 bottom bracket shell seen frame tends to drain to the bottom bracket shell.
on full suspension frame
Service options and procedures will vary depending on the
bearing system in the bike. It is often necessary to know
386EVO the crank standard used on the bike because adaptors may
The 386EVO standard is a variation on the PF30. The frame be installed in the bottom bracket shell that allow mixing of
shell width of 86 mm and cranks in the 386EVO standard are shell and crank standards. The crank being used in the bike
correspondingly longer compared to the BB30 cranks. The will determine the tools and procedure used.
www.parktool.com 79
CHAPTER 7 CRANKSETS
BB30 BEARINGS FIGURE 7.39

Bikes designed with the BB3O shell use two pressed
cartridge bearings inside the frame. Like most cartridge type
bearings, if the spindle is removed, the bearing seals can be
safely lifted and the bearing cleaned and re-greased while still
in place in the shell. When the bearings develop play and are
worn out, they must be replaced. The old bearings are tapped
out and recycled and new ones pressed back into place. To
service the bearings use a tool such as the Park Tool BBT-
30.3 Bottom Bracket Bearing Tool Set. It is the intent of bike
manufacturers that if a bearing is removed from the system,
it will be replaced with a new bearing. Removal is done by
impact, and there may be slight damage to the bearing as it
is removed. The procedures here are for bearings accepting Strike tool end to drive out bearing from shell
a 30 mm diameter spindle. If there are adaptors installed in BB30 bearings use bearing stops inside bottom bracket shell,
the bearings, you may need to use procedures for the crank which are commonly snap rings. It is typically not necessary
standard being used. to remove the shell snap rings. If removal is necessary, use a
Procedure for bearing removal: small screwdriver to lift end of ring and pull out.
a. Remove cranks from bike. Spindle will be removed from The BBT-30.3 tool set includes two bushings for the BB30
bottom bracket shell as part of crank removal. and PF3O standard. Bushing installation requires a headset
b. For BB3O bearings, inspect inside bottom bracket shell press. Bushings help to center and align bearings during the
and note bearing-stop clip. Orient foot of BBT-30.3 tool pressing. A bearing must be pressed until it is recessed into
so it does not strike the any part of the clip. the shell. Pressing with a flat plate will not push bearings to
c. Tilt the BBT-30.3 tool and guide the foot through one their proper bearing position.
bearing, through the shell and engage foot into the Procedure for bearing installation:
opposite bearing (figure 7.38). a. Inspect inside shell for C-clips. Clips should be secure
FIGURE 7.38 inside groove in bottom bracket shell.
b. Engage one bearing each on the bushings from the BBT-
30.3 set. Bushing will keep bearing aligned during the
press (figure 7.40).
FIGURE 7.40
Engage foot of BBT-30.3 through bearing center and push foot

to opposite bearing
d. Engage plastic guide bushing into bearing. The guide will
keep tool and foot straight as it drives out bearing.
e. Use a hammer and strike the end of the remover to drive Install headset press through shell and engage bushing and bearings
out bearing (figure 7.39). If necessary, rotate tool handle FIGURE 7.41
to strike different points on the bearing.
f. After one bearing is removed, pull tool back through
remaining bearing. Place tool through open side of shell
and engage plastic alignment bushing. Strike end of the
remover and remove second bearing.
BB30 and PF30 cartridge bearings are a mild interference fit
into the shell. The BB30 bearing outside diameter is 42 mm.
The BB30 inside diameter is intended to be 41.96 mm. If the
press fit is weak and the bearings slip into place by hand,
use a retaining compound such as RC609 from Loctite® to
supplement the fit. For removal of bearings pressed with the
retaining compound, it may be necessary to apply mild heat
such as from a hot air gun or a hair dryer. Press BB30 bearings with steady pressure from a headset press
80
CRANKSETS CHAPTER 7
c. Insert thread of headset press through bushings, remaining bearing. Plastic adaptors are likely to be marred by
bearings, and shell. Install second nut or stop plate of the removal process. Remove adaptors with the intention of
headset press, trapping bushing and bearings. installing new ones.
d. Turn headset press handle until plates contact bushing,
bearings, and shell. Stop briefly and inspect alignment of BB30 AND PF30 ADAPTORS
bearings into shell (figure 7.41). FOR NON-BB30 CRANKS
e. Continue to press bearings until both strike C-clips BB30 and PF30 frame shells accept various manufacturers’
inside shell. adaptors to permit the installation of non-BB3O cranks.
f. Remove headset press and bushings. Check inside shell BB30 frame shells may be converted to the threaded BSC/
for bearing contact at stops. ISO standard with an aluminum sleeve from FSA®, SRAM®,
g. Install crank according to crank brand and model. and Problem Solvers™. The sleeve is a press fit to BB30 shell,
and has internal threading. Conventional threaded bottom
PF30 AND BBRIGHT® BEARINGS bracket bearing adaptors or cups can then be installed. This
The PF30 system and its variations are designed to accept the conversion should be considered semipermanent because a
BB3O cranks with the 30 mm diameter spindles. It is basically professional mechanic should perform removal.
a variation of the BB30 bearing system. The frame shell bore To install this conversion, begin by removing the C-clips
diameter is nominally 46 mm. It will accept cartridge bearings from the BB30 frame shell (figure 7.44). Use a small-tipped
mounted permanently into plastic or aluminum adaptors. These screwdriver, snap ring pliers, or needle nose pliers.
are pressed into the shell with a mild interference fit. FIGURE 7.44
Bearings are pressed into place in the same manner with
the same tool as the BB30 above. Push on bearings until both
sides are contacting outer shell faces (figure 7.42). There is no
internal stop ring in the PF30 system. The bearing adaptors
have a lip that contacts the outside shell face. Press the
bearing adaptors only until this lip contacts the shell face.
Removal of the PF30 uses the BBT-30.3 in the fashion of
the BB30. The tool is installed through one side and the foot
of the tool is pushed over to contact the opposite bearing.
The end of the tool is struck with a hammer to remove one
bearing (figure 7.43). The tool is then reversed to remove the
FIGURE 7.42
Remove C-clips bearing stops in the BB30 frame shell before
installing conversion sleeves
To prevent the chance of creaking and looseness in the
future, apply a mild thread locker such a Loctite® #242 to the
inside of the shell. Double-check the sleeve thread orientation.
The drive side (right side) thread is a left-hand thread, and the
internal thread will slope upward to the right. The non-drive
side external thread is a right-hand thread and the internal
threads of the sleeve will slope upwards to the left. Use a
headset press to push the sleeve fully into place (figure 7.45).
Removal of this conversion sleeve can be difficult. Should
it need removal, it is best to take the bike to an experienced
Press PF30 bearings until both left and right bearing stops contact frame shop. For more details see www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help.
Remove PF30 adaptors with Park Tool BBT-30.3 Pressing the aluminium conversion sleeve into a BB30 shell
www.parktool.com 81
CHAPTER 7 CRANKSETS
24 mm spindle cranks (Shimano®, SRAM® GXP®, Race Face®, SRAM® offers a PF30 to a 68 mm or 73 mm adaptor insert
FSA®, etc) can also be fitted into the BB30 compatible bottom with internal threads in the BSC/ISO standard (figure 7.48).
bracket shells by using simple downsizing adaptors. The To install this unit, begin with an empty PF30 shell. The
bearing hole for the standard BB30 bearing is 30 mm. These threaded bearing adaptors are installed into the internal
adaptors are simple, downsizing the current bearing to accept thread of the PF30 adaptor before they are pressed into
the smaller spindles (figure 7.46). The adaptors act as spacers the frame. Grab the PF30 adaptor on the flats in a vise and
against the bearings to effectively widen the shell to the BB86 tighten each threaded bearing adaptor to a relatively low
or BB92 shell standard. torque of 18 Nm. Each adaptor is then pressed one at a time
FIGURE 7.46 into the frame. The plastic is squeezed and is compressed
during the interference fit, and this adds to the effective
torque or holding power of the internal threads.
BB86, BB90, BB92, BB95 BEARINGS (SHIMANO®

PF AND GXP® PF)
The BB86, BB90, BB92 and BB95 standards are similar in
their service details. Pressed adaptors designed for 24 mm
spindles are pushed into a smooth bore frame shell with a
nominal inside diameter of 41 mm. The adaptors have lips
that stop against the frame shell face.
Procedure for bearing adaptor removal:
a. Remove cranks.
Plastic reducers for the PF30 bearing allowing the fit b. Insert small end of bearing driver BBT-90.3 through one
of the 24 mm Shimano® crank side and pull slowly until it engages backside of adaptor
Praxis Works® offers bearing systems that install inside (figure 7.49). It engages with a “click” noise.
BB30 or PF3O systems to reduce their internal diameter for FIGURE 7.49
the 24 mm spindle size of Shimano®, FSA®, and SRAM®
cranksets (figure 7.47). A tube with internal threading is
pressed into the bottom bracket shell. Threaded bearing
adaptors screw into the tube and tighten the left and right
adaptors against one another to hold the assembly securely.
FIGURE 7.47
Pull BBT-90.3 driver through shell until it engages back of adaptor
FIGURE 7.50
Praxis Works® bottom bracket adaptor inside a PF30 frame shell
FIGURE 7.48
Remove bearing adaptor one at a time

c. Use hammer to drive out one adaptor (figure 7.50). Hold
frame near bottom bracket to support while tapping.
Expect backside of adaptor to have cosmetic scarring
from tool.
d. Insert small end of bearing driver BBT-90.3 through
SRAM® threaded converters for the PF30 standard second adaptor and repeat process.
82
CRANKSETS CHAPTER 7
It is the intent of the manufacturer to have bearings and FIGURE 7.52

adaptors removed only for replacement. The left and right
adaptors are symmetrical, with the exception of the SRAM®
GXP®. The GXP® cranks have a stepped spindle, nominally
24 mm on the right side and 22 mm on the left. The adaptors
are marked for drive side and non-drive side, with the non-
drive side being smaller. When working with the GXP® press
fit bottom bracket, orient the adaptor with the smaller
bearing hole on the left side.
If drive train creaking has been an issue in the bike, it
may be necessary to apply a retaining compound, such as the
Loctite® RC609. This liquid compound will expand and harden
once installed. For removal, it may require mild heat. Use
only a hot air gun or a hair dryer to warm the bottom bracket Remove right side clip before pulling bearing
shell, softening the compound. FIGURE 7.53
Procedure for bearing adaptor installation:
a. Clean pressed surfaces of grease. If desired, apply a
retaining compound.
b. Use a headset press and engage one bearing each on
the bushings from the BBT-90.3 set. Bushings will keep
bearings aligned during the press (figure 7.51). If no
guide bushings are available, press one adaptor at a time
using the press.
FIGURE 7.51
Engage puller caliper fingers over bearing and secure knobs

b. Remove C-clip from right side crank. Use snap ring pliers
or a small tipped screwdriver to pry up clip (figure 7.52).
c. Arrange the bearing puller assembly over the spindle.
Use the side knobs to snug the fingers under the bearing
(figure 7.53).
d. Turn handle of puller clockwise to push tool plunger
against spindle end. The bearing will be pulled away
from crank.
Install headset press through shell and engage bushings and bearings e. Remove tool from crank and repeat process on second crank.
c. Turn headset press handles until plates contact bushing, Both crank bearings should be replaced if removed. Do not
bearings, and shell. Stop briefly and inspect alignment of reuse bearings that were removed. The new bearing must be
bearings into shell. pressed back onto spindle with an interference fit, much like
d. Continue to press bearings until both adaptors are a headset fork crown race.
pressed against shell face. Do not continue to press Procedure for bearing installation:
beyond this point. a. Replace any seals that were removed on the crank.
e. Remove headset press and bushings. b. Install bearing over spindle.
f. Install cranks according to crank brand and model. c. Place crank on wooden bench or other firm non-marring
surface. Place driver from Park Tool CPB-3 Bearing Puller
CAMPAGNOLO® ULTRA-TORQUE® AND Set over spindle and drive bearing downward by striking
FULCRUM® BEARINGS with a hammer (figure 7.54). The CBP-2 driver is a
The Campagnolo® Ultra-Torque® crank bearings are pressed precise fit to the inner bearing race and will not damage
on the spindle section of each crank. Bearings are removed bearing surfaces.
only for the purpose of replacement. Use the Park Tool CBP-3 d. Engage C-clip over spindle end. Use driver CPB-2 to push
Bearing Puller set to remove and install these bearings. bearing down until bearing engages groove in spindle.
Procedure for bearing removal: e. Repeat installation of bearing on second crank. Install
a. Remove cranks from bike. cranks into bike as described on page 76.
www.parktool.com 83
CHAPTER 7 CRANKSETS
FIGURE 7.54 b. Use a screwdriver to remove C-clip adjacent to right side. Clip
must be removed before bearing can be pulled (figure 7.55).
c. Install the bearing remover adaptor on the crank (figure
7.56). Install adaptor aligned with the arm of crank.
Push adaptor until fully engaged under bearing.
d. Install puller over spindle end. Engage fingers into arms
of adaptors. Adjust knobs of puller to remove play in
puller (figure 7.57).
FIGURE 7.57
Drive bearing firmly into place and then install C-clip
CAMPAGNOLO® POWER TORQUE™ BEARINGS

The right side bearing for the Power Torque™ is a press fit
to the spindle. The left side bearing is a slip fit to the spindle,
but this bearing is pressed tightly to the adaptor or cup.
The left side bearing is replaced together with the adaptor
as a unit. The right side bearing mounted to the spindle can
be removed and replaced. The aluminum and carbon arms
share the same service procedure for bearing removal and
replacement. Bearing removal requires a bearing puller set
such as the Park Tool CBP-5 Crank and Bearing Adaptor Set.
This tool set is used in conjunction with the CBP-3 Bearing Engage caliper fingers over bearing adaptor and tighten knobs
Puller Set. Note: For Campagnolo® compact style cranks e. Tighten handle of puller to lift adaptor and bearing from
remove the chainrings before using the CBP-5. crank. Inspect that the puller and adaptor are lifting
Procedure for right side bearing removal: evenly and not twisting.
a. Remove cranks from bike. See page 76. Procedure for right side bearing installation:
FIGURE 7.55 a. Install new seal and bearing on crank spindle. Place
crank on smooth workbench, and place bearing installer
over spindle.
b. Use a hammer and strike bearing installer to drive
bearing fully into place (figure 7.58).
c. Engage C-clip over spindle end. Use driver to push
bearing down until bearing engages groove in spindle.
d. Install cranks in bike.
FIGURE 7.58
Remove right side clip before pulling bearing
FIGURE 7.56
Drive bearing to arm using hammer and bearing installer
CAMPAGNOLO® BB30 BEARING ADAPTORS

Power Torque™ and Ultra-Torque® adaptors are available for
both the BB30 and PF3O shell standards (figure 7.59). For the
BB30 frames, begin by removing the bearing stop C-clips from
Install bearing adaptor from direction of crank arm inside the frame on both sides of the shell (figure 7.60).
84
CRANKSETS CHAPTER 7
FIGURE 7.59 Round spindle-end standards for three-piece include the

Shimano® Octalink®, ISIS Drive, FSA® Power Drive™, and
SRAM® Power Spline™ cranks. These spindles are also available
in different lengths, measured end to end. When replacing
a bottom bracket spindle, measure and duplicate the same
length in a new model.
The common threading for bottom brackets is called the
BSC (British Standard Cycle), English threading, or ISO
standard (International Thread Standard). The thread size
is 1.37 inches (35 mm) x 24 tpi. The left side (non-drive
side) thread is a right-hand direction thread, which removes
counter-clockwise and tightens clockwise. The right side
(drive side) thread is a left-hand direction thread. It is
Left side adaptor shown uninstalled with right side adaptor installed counter-clockwise and is removed clockwise.
fully pressed in place There are some exceptions to the ISO bottom bracket
FIGURE 7.60 threading. Bikes made in Italy may have both drive and
non-drive right-hand thread, which are both removed
counter-clockwise. The thread sizing is 36 mm x 24 tpi. This
bottom bracket is too large to fit into an ISO sized frame. An
ISO bottom bracket will simply slide into the larger Italian
threading with no thread engagement. An Italian thread
bottom bracket is often designated with “36 x 24” markings
on the flange of the bottom bracket bearing.
If a bottom bracket bearing adaptor or cup seems to install
with excessive force, the shell threads may require tapping
(figure 7.61). A professional mechanic will be able to diagnose
and repair this problem.
Another machining issue is called “facing” (figure 7.62).
Remove C-clips bearing stops in the BB30 frame shell before The left and right shell faces should be machined or faced
installing Campagnolo® adaptors so they are parallel to one another. The shell can become
Use a headset press and press one adaptor at a time. If FIGURE 7.61
either cup appears to have a loose fit, use retaining compound
such as Loctite RC680.
Campagnolo® pressed adaptors use an internal seal that
interferes with removal. Use a screwdriver and/or needle nose
pliers to displace both internal seals inward. This will permit
use of the Park Tool RT-1 head cup remover tool. Insert the
RT-1 through the adaptor and engage it behind the adaptor.
Use a hammer to drive out one cup. Reverse the tool and drive
out the second adaptor. Expect some cosmetic scarring of the
backside of the adaptor.
BOTTOM BRACKET BEARING SERVICE FOR

THREADED SHELLS Tapping the bottom bracket internal thread
The common bearing system used for three-piece cranks in
FIGURE 7.62
threaded shells is the “cartridge bearing.” The crank spindle
is built into the bearings and the unit is held in the frame
by threaded adaptors. The cranks attach to the end of the
spindles, and consequently the crank must be compatible with
the spindle.
In square spindle types, there are different square spindle
lengths available as measured from end to end. The longer
the right side of the square-type bottom bracket spindle, the
farther the chainrings will sit to the right of the frame. The
chainrings may rub against the frame if the right side is too
short. There are limits to where the cranks can be positioned
in the frame, as described in Chapter 9, Derailleur Systems,
Chainline, page 129. Facing the shell face surface
www.parktool.com 85
CHAPTER 7 CRANKSETS
TABLE 7.2 Threaded Bottom Bracket Tool Selection

BOTTOM BRACKET APPROPRIATE PARK TOOL & NUMBER OF SPLINES OR NOTCHES
BRAND / MODEL EXAMPLES
FITTING TOOL PRODUCT IN BOTTOM BRACKET FITTING
Park Tool BBT-22

Many Shimano® cartridge types, also Race Face®, FSA®
20 splines
Park Tool BBT-18

Bontrager®, Truvativ®
8 notches
Park Tool BBT-9

16 notches
External bearing systems for Shimano® Hollowtech® II,
Campagnolo®, Race Face®, FSA®, Truvativ®
Park Tool BBT-19
16 notches
Park Tool BBT-29

Shimano® Dura-Ace® FC-9000
16 notches
Park Tool BBT-29

FSA® 386 MegaEVO®
16 notches
Park Tool BBT-4

Campagnolo® Veloce®, Mirage®, Xenon®
6 notches
Park Tool BBT-5

Campagnolo® Record®, Chorus®, Centaur®
12 splines
Adjustable type Shimano® Dura-Ace® bottom Park Tool BBT-7

brackets (BB-7700) 6 notches
Park Tool HCW-5

Lockring of various brands of adjustable bottom brackets 3 or 6 notches
(lockring on cup)
Adjustable bottom bracket, right side cup. Park Tool HCW-4

Two wrench flats 2 flats at 36 mm
Park Tool SPA-1

Various adjustable bottom bracket left side cups
2, 4, 6 or 8 holes of 3 mm diameter
86
CRANKSETS CHAPTER 7
deformed during welding or even simply from being made less Truvativ® GXP® cranks use spacers under the bearing
than precisely. If the shell faces are deformed, left and right adaptors. If the shell is 68 mm wide, use one of the 2.5 mm
side bearings may not be properly aligned to one another. spacers per side. For 73 mm wide shells, no spacers are
As a rule, if the bearings use the shell face as a reference needed; thread adaptors directly into shell.
for the bearing race alignment, facing is important. If the The external bearing system design for double chainring
bearings do not use the shell face for bearing race alignment, cranksets (road) from Shimano®, FSA®, and Truvativ® are made
facing is not needed. Many modern bicycles use cartridge-type for 68 mm bottom bracket shells. No extra spacers are required
bottom bracket bearings. These bearing systems consist of a or used for these systems. Bearings simply install into the shell.
bottom bracket bearing housing containing non-removable The bearing cups from Shimano®, Campagnolo®, FSA®,
and non-adjustable bearings. The bearing adjustment is made Truvativ®, SRAM®, and Race Face® all use the Park Tool BBT-9
at the component factory and does not rely on the shell or BBT-19 Bottom Bracket Tool. The cups have 16 notches that
faces for bearing surface referencing, and the unit is held in are engaged by the tool. The BBT-9 is a one-piece hand tool.
position by threaded locating rings, expanding cups, and/or The BBT-19 may be used with a torque wrench.
threads on the housing. Unless the shell faces are extremely Shimano® offers a proprietary adaptor sized for 11-speed
deformed, facing will not be required with these components. Dura-Ace® systems, which requires their own wrench.
Threaded bottom bracket bearing cups and adaptors are Additionally, FSA® has a proprietary size for the threaded
designed with tool fittings to allow installation and removal. 386EVO adaptors.
Do not attempt to “fake” the tool by using unusual service Procedure for bearing installation:
techniques, such as trying to tap the bottom bracket out with a. Prepare bottom bracket shell threads with grease, anti-
a punch and hammer. Table 7.2 outlines the common bottom seize, or a mild thread locker.
bracket fittings and the Park Tool choice of tools. The list of b. If applicable to the component, install correct number of
brands and models is not exhaustive because new models are spacers as described above on cup marked with “R” (drive
brought to market often. Inspect the lockring or cups of the side). Install dust seal on cup. Thread the drive side cup
bottom bracket and check the Table 7.2. counter-clockwise into right side of bike. Tighten fully,
approximately 305 to 435 inch-pounds. Using the BBT-9,
THREADED BOTTOM BRACKET WITH apply approximately 45 to 60 pounds of effort on the
TWO-PIECE CRANKS handle (figure 7.63).
A two-piece crank system may be installed in a threaded FIGURE 7.63
bottom bracket shell using “external cartridge bearings.”
The adaptor cups thread inside the shell, but the bearings
sit outboard or externally of the shell. The spindle for these
systems is part of the crank. Both left and right side bearings
have holes to accept the crank. Two-piece cranks are designed
to match the distance between their bearings when installed
in the shell. There are two basic shell widths: road at 68 mm
and mountain at 73 mm.
The triple crankset bearing cups of Shimano®, Race Face®,
and FSA® are designed to be spaced 75.5 mm apart at the frame
shell. These cranks are supplied with three spacers of 2.5 mm
thickness to locate them relative to the frame and the bearings.
The cranksets can be fitted to bikes with a 68 mm or 73 mm Tighten bearings using Park Tool BBT-9 Bottom Bracket Tool
bottom bracket shell width. If the bike uses a front derailleur c. Install correct spacers as needed on cup marked “L”
with a built-in mounting bracket (“E-type”), it is counted as a (non-drive side). Thread cup clockwise into left side
spacer. Any chain guide mount is also counted toward the (non-drive) of bike and tighten fully as before. Cups are
width total. See Table 7.3 for arrangement of spacers. ready for crank installation.
TABLE 7.3 External Bearing Crankset Spacer Arrangement Removal of the threaded cartridge adaptors is simply
unthreading them from the frame after the crank has been
BB SHELL LEFT SIDE FRONT RIGHT SIDE
WIDTH OF BIKE DERAILLEUR OF BIKE
removed. For the common BSC/ISO frame thread, turn the
drive side adaptor clockwise to remove. Turn the left side
Clamp-on front adaptor counter-clockwise to remove.
One 2.5 mm Two 2.5 mm
68 mm derailleur
spacer spacers
Two 2.5 mm spacers
THREADED CARTRIDGE BOTTOM BRACKETS:
68 mm
One 2.5 mm E-type front One 2.5 mm spacer ISIS DRIVE, OCTALINK®, AND SQUARE SPINDLE
spacer derailleur plus E-type bracket
Cartridge bottom brackets use industrial bearing designs,
73 mm No spacers
Clamp-on front
One 2.5 mm spacer similar to bearings found in pumps, electrical motors, etc.
derailleur These bearings are intended to be disposable. For most
E-type front brands of bottom brackets, the entire bottom bracket unit is
73 mm No spacers E-type bracket
derailleur replaced, including the spindle.
www.parktool.com 87
CHAPTER 7 CRANKSETS
To determine if the bottom bracket is worn out or has FIGURE 7.66

developed play, drop the chain off the chainrings to the
inside. Grab both cranks firmly at the ends, but do not hold
the pedals. Push laterally with one hand and pull laterally
with the other hand to force the arms side to side. If a
knocking is felt, remove cranks and double-check tightness
of bearing locking cups or rings and check play again. If
the cups are adequately tight and knocking continues, the
bearings are worn, and the bottom bracket should be replaced.
Next, spin the cranks while holding the frame (figure 7.64).
Worn bearings will grind, and this can be felt through the
frame as a vibration. If in doubt, compare the feeling of an
old bottom bracket to that of one on a new bike.
FIGURE 7.64 Bottom bracket marking indicating side of bike
It is common for new cartridge bottom brackets to be marked
“Left” and “Right.” These refer to side of bike, not thread
direction (figure 7.66). The drive side of the bike is the right
side, and the non-drive side is the left side. With the common
BCS/ISO threading, the right side will have left-hand thread
direction, and the left will have right-hand thread direction.
There are two critical issues regarding thread preparation
for the bottom bracket. First, the threads need lubrication to
pull up fully tight. Second, the threads should be protected
from corrosion. Grease will help for both issues, but anti-seize
compounds are far more durable and are better at preventing
corrosion (figure 7.67). Anti-seize is especially recommended
Spin cranks to feel for grinding of a worn bottom bracket bearing for titanium and aluminum frames.
Procedure for bottom bracket removal: Another thread option is to use a service removable
a. Remove both cranks. threadlocker. Place a bead of the threadlocker around the first
b. Insert bottom bracket cartridge tool fully into or onto FIGURE 7.67
fittings of non-drive cup (left side). Hold tool firmly in
place while turning counter-clockwise to remove left or
non-drive adaptor or cup.
c. Insert tool fully into or onto fitting of drive side (right
side) adaptor or cup. Remove by turning clockwise on
BSC or ISO threaded bikes. For Italian threaded bikes,
turn counter-clockwise.
d. Pull bottom bracket spindle from bike if not already removed.
If the bottom bracket is difficult to unthread or remove, it can
be useful to clamp the tool to the adaptor cup. If the spindle is
hollow, use a quick release lever to hold the tool firmly in place
(figure 7.65). If the spindle is not hollow, use a long bolt of the
same thread as the crank bolt. The teeth of the cups may be Lubricating threads of the bottom bracket
shallow, and this technique can prevent the tool from slipping. FIGURE 7.68
FIGURE 7.65
If spindle appears off-center in shell, bottom bracket adaptor

Use wheel skewer to secure tool snug to adaptor fittings may be cross threaded
88
CRANKSETS CHAPTER 7
three or four threads on both lockrings. The threadlock will FIGURE 7.70
form a seal against water. Use of a threadlocker is especially
recommended for Italian-threaded bottom brackets, which
tend to loosen during use.
Plastic lockrings or cup threads may be greased or left dry.
Do not use threadlocker compounds on plastic as they may
cause the plastic to become brittle.
When threading a bottom bracket into the frame, begin
turning by hand to feel and avoid cross threading. Look
at opposite side of the bottom bracket shell, and keep the
spindle centered in the shell. If spindle appears off-center in
the shell, it may be cross-threaded (figure 7.68).
Procedure for bottom bracket installation:
a. Prepare the threads of the bottom bracket with grease,
anti-seize, or threadlocker.
b. Look on body of cartridge for “L” and “R” marking. The
“L” goes to the left side of bike, and the “R” goes to the
right (drive train) side. For the common BSC threaded “Cup and cone” design of adjustable bottom bracket. (A) Spindle,
bikes, right side (“R”) has a left-hand thread direction. (B) Bearings, (C) Left side cup and lockring, (D) Right side cup
Thread the drive train side by turning counter-clockwise. parts. This causes a knocking in the bearing surfaces, and the
If bottom bracket has a plastic threaded side and a metal surfaces will also wear out prematurely.
threaded side, install the metal threaded side first. In adjustable bearing systems the bearing surfaces move on
c. Once threads are correctly aligned, thread body fully into threaded parts. It is normal for threaded parts to have play
bottom bracket shell using bottom bracket tool. between the internal and external threads. For example, a
d. Install locking cup or ring into other side of shell and bearing cup will wiggle in the shell thread until the lockring
tighten both sides to manufacturer’s torque (figure 7.69). is tightened down against the frame. Play in the thread
FIGURE 7.69 is removed when a locking nut or ring is tightened. When
checking bearing adjustments, the lockring must be tight.
Play felt after the ring is tight will come from the bearing
adjustment, not from thread movement.
The goal for adjustable-type bearings is to have the bearings
rotate as freely as possible without any knocking or play. When
beginning a bearing adjustment, start with it loose and then
proceed to tighten the adjustment in small increments until
the play disappears. This ensures the adjustment is as loose as
possible but is without play. In most cases, try to make small
changes in increments of ⅟₃₂ of a complete rotation.
Bottom Bracket Removal

When dismantling components, it is a good idea to take
written notes of the part’s orientation. Another option is to take
digital images before and during the process to help in assembly.
For a bottom bracket spindle, one side of the spindle may
Use a torque wrench to secure and lock bottom bracket adapter be longer than the other side. Note which side was longer or
inside frame shell shorter, and reassemble in the same orientation.
If the bottom bracket is being overhauled, it is optional
THREADED ADJUSTABLE to remove the fixed side (right side) cup. Removal makes
BOTTOM BRACKET BEARINGS inspection and cleaning easier. The cup may remain in the
Adjustable bottom brackets include some square-spindle frame. Leaving the cup in place will slow the service slightly.
bottom brackets and the Shimano® Dura-Ace® 7700 bottom Procedure for bottom bracket disassembly:
bracket. These bottom brackets may be dismantled and a. Remove cranks.
cleaned (figure 7.70). Adjustable-type bearing systems are b. Using a lockring spanner, loosen and remove left
sometimes referred to as “cup and cone” systems. A convex side lockring.
and a concave bearing race oppose one another, trapping the c. Use a pin spanner or other appropriate tool and remove
ball bearings between them. If the adjustment is too tight, adjustable cup from the left side of bike (figure 7.71).
there will be too much pressure on the bearing surfaces. The d. Remove bearings and spindle. Note and record if right
system will “bind” and quickly wear out. If the adjustment side or left side of spindle seems longer. Note number of
is too loose, there will be movement or “play” between the bearings if bearings were not caged.
www.parktool.com 89
CHAPTER 7 CRANKSETS
FIGURE 7.71 b. If removed, install fixed cup (right side). Even if fixed
cup was not removed, check for cup tightness. For ISO/
English threading, turn counter-clockwise. Secure to a
minimum of 360 inch-pounds.
c. Heavily grease bearing cages. Press grease into cage and
between bearings.
d. Refer to notes from disassembly and place bearing
retainer on fixed cup side (right side) of spindle. Place
the open side of cage against the cone-shape of the
spindle. Install spindle through shell and into fixed cup.
e. Install any dust sleeve.
f. Heavily grease second bearing cage and install into
adjustable cup (left side). Place the open side of the cage
Remove adjustable cup (left side) lockring, bearing cup and bearings towards cone-shape of the spindle.
e. Remove any dust sleeve from inside the bottom bracket shell. g. Thread adjustable cup (left side) into place.
f. Reach through shell and remove bearings from inside right h. Install but do not tighten lockring onto adjustable cup.
side cup. Use a long spoke or other object as necessary.
g. Fixed cups (right side) are commonly left-hand threaded. Bottom Bracket Adjustment
If removing for service, use a fixed cup spanner and Rotating bearings should be adjusted to be as loose a
remove clockwise (for the common BSC/ISO threading). possible, but without play or knocking. To ensure you are
h. Clean all parts in solvent and dry. After cleaning and making adjustments in small increments, use a piece of tape
drying all parts, inspect for wear and damage. View cups as a reference. Use about 2 inches of masking tape and make
and spindle races for pitting and other damage. There will pen marks on one edge every ⅛ inch (3 mm). Stick the tape
likely be a smooth line worn on both cup and spindle. on the left side of the bottom bracket shell so the marks
There should not be holes or gouges in either. Use a face outward. These will be reference marks when adjusting
ballpoint pen to trace the bearing path (figure 7.72). the bearings and represent the small increments used when
Roughness and wear will be felt as the ball of the pen turning the adjustable cup (figure 7.73).
passes over worn areas. This roughness will get worse with FIGURE 7.73
use. It does not “smooth out” or “break-in” with time.
If the ball bearings have a shiny silver color and are smooth,
they can be reused. If the bearings appear discolored, they
should be replaced. The ball bearings are generally the last
part of the system to wear out. If the bearings are worn, it is
likely that the cups and races are also worn.
FIGURE 7.72
Use a sticker for reference marks when making small adjustments

to the bearing cup
If bottom bracket bearing surfaces are worn out, it will not
be possible to have a smooth adjustment with no play. Worn
bottom bracket parts will need to be replaced.
The adjustment procedure below assumes the fixed cup
(right side) is fully secure. If the bottom bracket was not
Trace bearing surfaces to feel for roughness and pits disassembled, it is still important to test that it is secure.
Remove cranks and loosen left side cup by turning counter-
Bottom Bracket Installation clockwise ½ turn. Hold spanner firmly to right side cup and
Thread preparation is critical in bottom brackets. Use either check its security by tightening counter-clockwise. If cup
grease or anti-seize for cups. Fixed cups (right-side) may also seems tight, trust that it is tight.
use mild threadlockers rather than lubrication. The common Procedure for bottom bracket bearing adjustment:
bearing size for square-spindle adjustable bottom brackets is a. Reinstall right crank only and tighten fully. Arm will be
¼ inch. used as a lever to check for play in adjustment.
Procedure for bottom bracket installation: b. Gently tighten adjustable cup (left side) clockwise.
a. Prepare threads using grease or anti-seize compound. Right Turn it just to the point you can feel it bump into the
side (drive side) cup may use a threadlocker as an option. ball bearings.
90
CRANKSETS CHAPTER 7
c. Use marker and make a line on the cup face. Have a FIGURE 7.75
look at the reference tape and note which mark aligns
with cup reference mark. It is also possible to use a
mark already on the cup, such as the first letter of the
manufacturer if the cup is stamped.
d. Hold the adjustable cup firmly with the correct spanner.
Using the lockring spanner, tighten the lockring fully.
Locking typically requires 300 to 360 inch-pounds.
e. Check for knocking in the spindle. Grab end of right
crank and push left to right. Repeat this as you rotate
the crank all the way around.
f. If there is no play, adjustment may be too tight. Loosen
lockring and loosen cup slightly to create play. Secure
lockring and check for play.
g. If there is knocking (play), make note of which reference
tape mark aligns with the cup mark. Loosen the lockring
counter-clockwise. Move the adjustable cup clockwise
one mark on the reference tape. Secure the lockring and Measure one cord of pentagon by measuring from bolt-to-bolt
check for play. If there are four or six arms on the crank, measure the bolt
h. Repeat tightening one mark at a time until play circle diameter using opposing chainring bolts. It is easier to
disappears, checking for play with the right crank in measure edge to edge on the bolts, rather than center to center.
different positions of rotation. When play is not felt at It is difficult to directly measure the BCD of three-arm or
any rotation, adjustment is finished. five-arm spiders. Measure one “cord,” which is one side of the
i. Use solvent to remove pen mark from cup or frame. pentagon created by the bolts (figure 7.75). Measure from bolt
j. Install left side crank. to adjacent bolt. Multiply this figure by 1.70 (the mathematical
constant for pentagons) to get the bolt circle diameter (BCD).
CHAINRINGS For chainrings with three mounting holes, use 1.155.
Chainrings are toothed sprockets attached to the cranks. Table 7.4 below lists the bolt-to-bolt (cord) measurements for
Cranks may be designed to accept one, two, or three the common BCD’s for the three-, four-, and five-bolt chainrings.
chainrings. Most models of cranks are designed so the rings TABLE 7.4 Bolt Circle Diameter
are replaceable. The old ring is removed and a new ring is
BOLT-TO-BOLT
installed. Different rings may also be fitted if the rider desires BCD COMMON USE
MEASUREMENT
a different gear ratio. There are less expensive models of
Three-Arm Cranks
cranks that use chainrings permanently mounted to the arm,
which means the entire crankset must be replaced if the rings 74.5 mm 86 mm 3-bolt of FSA® inner and outer
wear out or are damaged. Four-Arm Cranks
The part of the crank that attaches to the chainrings is 45.3 mm 64 mm Inner ring of standard MTB triple
called the “spider.” The spider may have three, four, five, or six
53.7 mm 76 mm SRAM® XX1 chainring
mounting arms. The chainring mounting holes must match the
spider mounting holes in order to fit. As the chainrings turn, 56.6 mm 80 mm Inner MTB double
the mounting bolts of the spider trace a circle. The diameter 62.2 mm 88 mm Inner/outer XTR® M985 double ring
of this circle is called the “bolt circle diameter,” abbreviated as 72.1 mm 102 mm Middle/outer MTB standard
BCD. New chainrings must match both the number of mounting 73.6 mm 104 mm Middle/outer MTB standard
holes and the bolt circle diameter (figure 7.74).
N/A 110 mm Shimano® 11-speed Dura-Ace®
FIGURE 7.74
84.7 mm 120 mm Outer, double SRAM®
103.3 mm 146 mm Outer XTR® M960
Five-Arm Cranks
34.3 mm 58 mm Inner ring of compact MTB triple
43.5 mm 74 mm Inner compact road
53.3 mm 92 mm Inner triple Shimano®
55.4 mm 94 mm Middle/outer MTB compact
64.7 mm 110 mm Middle/outer compact road
76.4 mm 130 mm Inner/outer standard road
79.5 mm 135 mm Inner/outer Campagnolo® road
Bolt circle diameter of a five-arm crank 84.6 mm 144 mm Track
www.parktool.com 91
CHAPTER 7 CRANKSETS
CHAINRING REPLACEMENT FIGURE 7.78

Replaceable chainrings are held to the crank by special
fine thread fasteners called chainring bolts. The bolt may
use a 5 mm hex, 6 mm hex, or Torx® T30 wrench. Usually,
the nut is round, and uses a slot to engage a tool instead
of external faces. Use a chainring nut wrench, such as
the Park Tool CNW-2, to hold the chainring nut while the
bolt is turned (figure 7.76). Chainring bolt threads should
be lubricated or treated with a mild thread locker before
installing and tightening.
FIGURE 7.76
Inspect for any special marking to indicate chainring orientation

relative to crank
CHAINRING WEAR AND DAMAGE

The chainring engages with the chain as it turns. The
leading or forward part of the chainring tooth takes the
load as the bike is ridden. With use, the teeth wear down,
and eventually develops a hooked or shark tooth shape. The
chainring teeth will also wear thin. Modern chainrings have
special shapes in the rings that act as a “shifting ramp” that
Use a chainring nut wrench behind the ring to hold nut while turning picks up the chain during the shift. Shifting performance
the bolt in the front will suffer as these ramps wear. A worn ring may even skip
Chainrings can be designed with specially shaped teeth under the chain when pressure is applied to the pedals.
and “shifting ramps” built into the ring (figure 7.77). Shift Worn teeth can also grab the chain and pull it upward into
pegs may be designed into the ring to help lift the ring the frame, a phenomenon called “chain suck” that jams the
upward to the large ring. Large chainring teeth may be chain between chainring and chainstay. Compare old, suspect
shortened to allow the chain to disengage and drop inward. rings to new ones of the same type (figure 7.79). If there is
Even if two chainrings have the same BCD and same number an obvious difference or if shifting seems to have suffered,
of teeth, they may not interchange well if one ring lacks replace the chainring.
these design features. FIGURE 7.79
FIGURE 7.77
Note wear mark as the black anodizing wears off during shift. A) Upshift
“pick up pegs” to lift chain to large ring. B) Downshift ramps;
Before removing the old chainrings, pay special attention
to how they are oriented on the cranks because there is a An obvious difference between an old ring and new ring
left and right side of the rings. Additionally, some chainrings If a tooth bends from impact, it may cause shifting
may have specially shaped teeth and shifting ramps to assist problems. It may be possible to pry it back in line. Use a small
shifting. These features assist the shift of the chain and are adjustable wrench and close the jaws on the bent tooth. Bend
designed to work within a proprietary system. The chainrings the tooth back slowly while checking often so as not to over-
must be correctly aligned on the crank to be timed for the correct. Severely bent teeth may break off. However, even if
shifting feature to work best. Inspect chainrings before the tooth breaks the ring may still be useable. Ride the bike
removal, and make a note of the location of special ramps or after the repair and shift back and forth testing the result. If
markings (figure 7.78). shifting performance is adequate, the ring is useable.
92
CRANKSETS CHAPTER 7
A bent tooth on the largest ring can be directly gripped by a the ring from the spider. Use a small adjustable wrench to
tool while mounted on the spider for alignment. Bent teeth on straighten the tooth. Do not grab the ring itself with the tool,
the middle or smallest rings are difficult to access with a tool. just the tooth. Hold the ring firmly below the wrench and bend
The bent tooth will typically have been bent inward, towards the tooth slightly back. Compare the bent tooth to straightness
the bottom bracket. It must be bent back to the outside (away of other teeth (figure 7.80). It may be necessary to remount
from the bottom bracket). The outer ring usually prevents the ring and try shifting. If the tooth makes a noise when
any tool from working on the tooth while mounted. When pedaling or has other shifting issues, repeat the repair.
necessary, remove the ring from the crank for tooth alignment. If the chainring is bent, it will appear to wobble from side
To repair a bent tooth, begin by spinning the rings without to side as the cranks turn. Impacts from crashing, impacts
the chain in place. Locate which tooth appears bent and mark from shipping damage, or even damage from falling over
this tooth on the ring. For small or middle rings, remove and striking something may bend the rings. The bend may
FIGURE 7.80 be in the ring, or it may be in the mounting arm. If the
lateral movement is enough to affect derailleur setting, it
is sometimes possible to re-bend rings to improve run-out
or wobble. Because a loose chainring mounting bolt causes
the ring to appear bent, always begin first by checking the
security of the chainring mounting bolts. Use the shaft of
a long screwdriver as a lever to straighten a bent chainring.
Spin the rings without a chain in place and sight the left-
to-right movement. Attempt to leverage the bent section. If
there is no improvement after three or four attempts, it is
best to replace the ring(s).
If an emergency repair is needed during a ride, you might
try to impact the ring. Look for sticks or pieces of wood with
a blunt end. Use this as a punch and strike the opposite end
with a rock. The ring will never be perfect, but it may get
you back from the ride. Four-arm spider rings are especially
susceptible to bending under hard use. Again, it is best to
Sight along the chainring to find any bent teeth replace bent rings rather than repair them.
www.parktool.com 93
8 Chains
Chains
CHAPTER 8 CHAINS
T he chain transfers motion from the front chainring(s) to

the rear sprocket(s). Chains are made of multiple pairs
of steel outer plates and inner plates held together by
rivets (figure 8.1). A roller separates each pair of inner plates.
The rivet is pressed tightly through both outer plates and
FIGURE 8.2
pivots freely on the inner plates and roller.

FIGURE 8.1
Chain sag in the smallest front to smallest rear sprocket position
FIGURE 8.3
Component parts of the bicycle chain:

(A) Side plates, (B) Inner plates, (C) Rivet, (D) Rollers
Chains pass between the right seat stay and right chain
stay to form a closed loop. Some chains use either a special
connection rivet or a “master link” to close the loop. Master
links are specially made outer plates that mate together to
hold the chain closed. Older-style chains have no master link
or special rivet and use any of the original rivets to join the
chain. This is a weaker system and is not used for modern Chain contact indicating chain is too long
derailleur systems. derailleur and chainrings when the bike is in the smallest rear
Drivetrain manufacturers design the derailleurs, rear sprocket and smallest front chainring (figure 8.2). The chain
sprockets, shifters, and chain to work together as a system. may have low tension in this position, but it should not droop
Chains vary in plate design, shape, and width. These or sag very much between the front and rear sprockets.
differences cause variations in shifting performance between Another symptom that indicates the chain is too long is
brands and models. Chains should be selected to be brand- the chain contacting itself as it passes by the upper derailleur
compatible with the particular shifting system of the bicycle. pulley when the bike is in the smallest rear sprocket and
Contact chain manufacturers for details on compatibility. smallest front chainring (figure 8.3).
Chain specification is designated by width of the roller Conversely, there can be problems when the chain is too
and by rivet length. Derailleur shifting bikes use rollers of short. Diagnose a short chain by shifting to the largest
nominally ³⁄₃₂ inch width. Actual roller measurements vary chainring and second-largest rear sprocket. Chain tension will
slightly depending upon the design of the chain and the normally be tighter in this position. Inspect chain for a double
number of rear sprockets. The ⅛ inch roller chains are used bend (“S” bend) as it passes through the pulley wheels (figure
on some one-speed bikes, such as coaster bikes and single- 8.4). Shift slowly and carefully to largest rear sprocket. If chain
speed freewheel bikes. appears to jam, it is too short. Even if the chain shifts but loses
Chain width is also determined by rivet length and varies the double bend at the pulley wheels, it is too short (figure 8.5).
with the number of rear sprockets. The greater the number of
rear sprockets, the shorter the rivet tends to be. Approximate FIGURE 8.4
widths measured across the rivets are:
• 11 cogs — 5.5 mm
• 10 cogs — 6 mm
• 9 cogs — 6.5 to 7 mm
• 6, 7, and 8 cogs — 7 mm
The ⅛ inch chains measure approximately 9 mm across the
rivet and are designed for use on one wider rear sprocket, not
for derailleur shifting on multi-speed cog systems.
CHAIN SIZING FOR DERAILLEUR BIKES

A chain that is too long or too short may cause shifting
and riding problems. A chain that is too long will sag between Double bends at each pulley indicate adequate chain length
96
CHAINS CHAPTER 8
FIGURE 8.5 Professional Chain Tool uses a pocket to hold the chain rather
than the alignment prong system.
The chain is sized to the particular bike and gear
combination. If the rear cassettes will be changed for
different rides, be sure to size the chain for the largest rear
cassette of the different options.
Rear suspension bikes may use designs that move the rear
hub and sprocket relative to the bottom bracket as the rear
suspension compresses. If the pivot of the suspension moves
the rear cog further away from the bottom bracket, size the
chain to the longest rear hub to bottom bracket distance.
Release shock pressure to fully compress rear suspension.
If a new chain is being installed and the old chain is the
Double bends at pulleys are lost with too short of a chain correct length, the new chain may be shortened to match.
In extreme cases when the chain is too short, trying to shift to Test the length of the old chain by shifting to both the largest
the large rear sprocket and largest front chainring combination front and rear sprockets and then the smallest front and rear
may damage the derailleur and/or the derailleur hanger. sprockets. If the chain passes both tests it is an acceptable
The rear derailleur cage takes up chain slack as the chain length. Remove the old chain and lay it on a flat surface with
is moved between the various front and rear sprocket the plates aligned vertically. Pull the chain straight. Lay the
combinations. Some bicycles are fitted with sprocket new chain next to the old chain in the same fashion, with inner
combinations and derailleur models that do not allow the plates of both chains at one end. The new chain may not exactly
derailleur to wrap up the chain slack in every possible gear match rivet to rivet toward the end of the chains. Push the links
combination. The sprocket selections in these cases exceed of the old worn chain together to match up with pins or rivets of
the “Chain Wrap Capacity” of the derailleur. the new chain. Account for any master link by placing it in one
If the rear derailleur Chain Wrap Capacity does not match or end on the new chain. Locate the matching end rivet on the new
exceed the sprocket range on the bike, the chain length will chain with the rivet on the old chain and cut the new chain.
appear either too long in the smallest sprocket to smallest The procedure below permits the chain to be shifted to the
chainring combination or too short in the largest sprocket largest front and rear sprockets. While most cyclists may not
to largest chainring combination. This is seen commonly use this combination, it should be assumed someone might
when a “short cage” derailleur is used on a bike with a wide shift to that combination. A short chain would jam and
gear range. When using a derailleur that does not meet the potentially cause damage in the large front ring to large rear
gearing capacity, it will be necessary to avoid certain gear sprocket combination.
combinations that cause problems in pedaling or shifting. For Procedure for derailleur chain sizing:
more discussion of derailleur capacity, see Derailleur Capacity a. With no chain in place, use shift levers to position the
and Maximum Sprocket Size in Chapter 9, Derailleur Systems. front derailleur over the largest chainring and the rear
New chains are packaged longer than needed for most derailleur under the smallest sprocket.
bicycles. New chains need to be “cut” (links separated or b. Thread the new chain through the front derailleur, but
removed) to fit each bike. To install and size a new chain, a do not thread the chain through the rear derailleur. This
chain tool is required. Chain tools are made up of a driving is for sizing the chain only and is easier than fighting
pin and a system to align and hold the chain-roller (figure cage tension. After cutting, the chain is routed through
8.6). Some models have two chain alignment prongs (cradles). the rear derailleur and joined. For sizing, simply wrap the
The primary set of locating prongs support the chain for chain around the largest front chainring and around the
pressing the chain rivet in and out. The “tight link” prongs largest rear sprocket. For master link chains, install one
are used only for fixing a tight link. The Park Tool CT-4.2 side of link to simulate full length with master link.
Park Tool CT-3.2 chain tool (A) driving pin and (B) alignment prongs Wrap chain on largest front and rear sprocket.
www.parktool.com 97
CHAPTER 8 CHAINS
c. Pull the chain tight and note the rivet closest to where the chance for chain failure. Clean the chain in place on
the two ends could be joined (figure 8.7). Keep in mind the bike with a chain cleaning system such as the Park Tool
a chain can be joined only by mating inner and outer CM-5.2 Chain Scrubber.
plates. If the selected inner and outer sections will not If the chain is not being reused, it may be cut at any
meet, round up and move to the next closest pair that rivet and then removed from the bike. However, if removing
would be possible to join. and reinstalling the same chain with special connection
d. From the closest rivet where it could be joined, count over rivets, such as Shimano® and Campagnolo®, do not select
an additional two rivets (figure 8.8). This adds 1 inch to a previously installed connecting rivet. Find a rivet some
the length to the shortest length from step “c”. distance from this original rivet and cut at this point.
e. Cut the chain at this point. Cutting the chain too long For chains that reuse the chain rivet, see Chains With
will be easier to rectify than cutting it too short. Select Reusable Rivets in this chapter.
the chain side ending with inner plates to cut. See below Procedure for chain removal:
for the specific brand procedures when installing. a. Shift the bike to the smallest sprockets front and rear.
FIGURE 8.8 b. Inspect for a master link. If present, rotate cranks until
link is in the lower section of chain.
c. When possible, drop chain from front chainrings to
remove any chain tension.
d. If master link is present, push both outer plates of
master link toward each other. Squeeze plate together
between thumb and fingers while sliding link apart.
When available, use a master link plier such as the
Park Tool MLP-1.2. Engage pliers on rollers and
squeeze handles of the MLP-1.2 to disengage link
(figure 8.10).
e. If no master link is present, select any rivet that is not
a special connection rivet. Non-special rivets will appear
The left example has one inch added including master link. The right the same as adjacent rivets.
example uses special connecting rivet and also has one inch added f. Install chain roller into alignment prong of chain tool
and bring driving pin of chain tool into contact with
CHAIN SIZING WITH CHAIN RETENTION SYSTEM rivet. For CT-4.3, insert chain into pocket.
Chain retention systems prevent the chain from falling off FIGURE 8.10
the front chainrings and are available in single-ring models
and double-ring models. The chain passes through pulleys
that add to the required chain length. To determine the chain
length, route the chain over the largest rear sprocket, the
largest front chainring, and through the retention system
(figure 8.9). Pull the chain together without routing it
through the rear derailleur, as if it were a one-speed, and
then add 1 inch additional length as described above.
FIGURE 8.9
MLP-1.2 Master Link Pliers disengaging master link side plates
FIGURE 8.11
Sizing on chain guide with pulley uses the same large-to-large procedure
CHAIN REMOVAL
For modern chains, simply leave the chain installed
until it is worn out and then replace it. Removing and
reinstalling the chain for frequent cleaning only increases Drive chain rivet from chain
98
CHAINS CHAPTER 8
g. Ensure that chain tool pin is driving in a straight line to Chain links are joined by different procedures depending
chain rivet. Turn handle and drive chain rivet from side upon the manufacturer. The joining process is critical, and a
plates (figure 8.11). poorly joined chain is the common cause of a broken chain.
h. Pull chain through front and rear derailleur cages and Consult the manufacturer’s literature if in doubt.
remove from bike.
SHIMANO® AND FSA® CHAINS
NEW CHAIN INSTALLATION ON WITH CONNECTING RIVET
DERAILLEUR BIKES Shimano® and FSA® chains use a special connecting rivet
It is necessary to route the correctly sized or cut chain to install new chains. If the chain is removed and reinstalled,
through the front derailleur, rear derailleur, and frame before a new connecting rivet must also be used. The connecting
it is joined. It may be useful to have another derailleur bike rivet has special flaring that is guided in by a long, tapered
on hand as an example of chain routing when attempting pilot (figure 8.13). The pilot is snapped off after the rivet is
this procedure. fully installed. Shimano® brand chains should use only the
After cutting chain to size, cut any zip ties from outer Shimano® connecting rivet. Use the FSA® connecting rivet for
side plates. Feed chain through rear derailleur and front the FSA® chains. The Shimano® 7- and 8-speed chains share
derailleur. Join ends together below chain stays. Any special the same black connecting rivet. The connecting section of
connection rivet (Shimano®, Campagnolo®, FSA®) is installed the rivet is nominally 7.8 mm (excluding the pilot section).
so the rivet is pushed from the inside outward. In other The 9-speed chain uses a silver-colored connecting rivet with
words, press with the handle of the chain tool closest to the a connection section that is nominally 6.7 mm. The 10-speed
spokes with the drive pin moving to the right, away from the chains use a rivet with a two machined lines for identification
frame (figure 8.12). on the pilot. The connection length of the 10-speed
FIGURE 8.12 connection rivet is nominally 6 mm. The 11-speed chains
have a tapered point on the pilot and the connection section
is nominally 5.7 mm. These Shimano® connection rivets are
not interchangeable.
The design of the Shimano® chain and drivetrain requires
that the special connecting rivet lead the outer chain plates
as it engages the sprockets (figure 8.14). When installing the
Shimano® chain, insert the connecting rivet into the left rivet
FIGURE 8.13
Push connection rivets from the inside toward the outside

The Shimano® recommended procedure is to install the
chain so the connection rivet of the outer plate leads the
plate onto the lower pulley. In other words, when looking
at the chain on the lower loop from the drive side, the
connection rivet is on the left hole of the outer plate.
Procedure for installation of correctly sized chain:
a. Shift derailleurs over the smallest front and rear sprockets.
b. Inspect chain side plates. If there is printing, lettering, Special connecting rivets from Shomano®: (A) 7- or 8-speed chains,
(B) 9-speed chain, (C) 10-speed chain, (D) 11-speed chain
or a logo on one side only, route the chain so writing
faces to the right, away from the frame. FIGURE 8.14
c. Beginning at rear derailleur, pass the chain end with
outer plates over the top of the lower rear pulley and in
front of the upper pulley.
d. Pull the chain behind the rear sprockets, allowing the
wheel to spin to get a section of chain to work with.
e. Pass the chain end forward and between the front derailleur
cage plates and down onto the smallest front sprocket.
f. Turn crank slowly to gain more slack.
g. Pull chain ends toward one another and join chain
according to type or model of chain. If chain tension is
making chain difficult to join, drop chain off chainring
and onto bottom bracket.
h. Test chain for tight link and repair as necessary. Shimano® connection rivet correctly pressed into leading side of outer plates
www.parktool.com 99
CHAPTER 8 CHAINS
of an outer plate when viewing the chain between the lower FIGURE 8.17
derailleur pulley and lower section of front chain wheel.
The modern rivets for Shimano®, FSA®, Campagnolo®, and
other manufacturers may actually leave a ring of rivet material
on the chain tool driving pin. Do not allow these rings to
stack up on the tool because they may interfere with pressing
new rivets. Use pliers to remove the old rings (figure 8.15).
FIGURE 8.15
Driving chain rivet from outer side plates of chain
FIGURE 8.18
Remove old remnants of rivets from driving pin of tool
Procedure for Shimano® and FSA® chain installation:
a. Inspect chain side plates. If there is printing or a logo,
route chain so writing faces toward the right. There
are asymmetrical chains that require mounting in one
direction. Any logo or printed letters face outward
toward mechanic on the drive side.
b. Lubricate connecting rivet.
c. Install correct Shimano® connecting rivet into chain outer
plate away from the mechanic on the drive side. The
tapered end enters the left side plate first and holds chain
together while connecting rivet is pressed (figure 8.16). Break off pilot after connecting rivet is properly pressed
d. Unthread chain tool pin into tool body to make room for CT-4.3 or CT-6.3, and twist pilot sideways (figure 8.18).
special connecting chain rivet in alignment prongs of tool. Pliers can also be used to break pilot. Inspect rivet again
e. Place chain roller into alignment prongs of chain tool. and press further if necessary. Rivet should be centered
f. Drive connecting rivet into chain (figure 8.17). Continue between outer plates.
to drive chain tool pin until head of connection rivet i. Inspect for tight links and repair as necessary. Rivet
appears to protrude the same as adjacent rivets. should be centered between outer plates.
g. Remove the chain from the tool and inspect the rivet. A connection chain rivet is never used or removed to
The non-tapered end of connecting rivet should protrude separate the chain. Reusing the same rivet hole wears plate
same as any neighboring rivet. Press further with the holes and may weaken the chain and cause it to snap during a
chain tool pin if necessary. ride. Use other original rivets for future chain cutting.
h. Break off pilot section of connecting rivet. Use groove
of CT-3.2 or CT-5 Chain Tool body, or hole in body of CAMPAGNOLO® 10-SPEED CHAIN
FIGURE 8.16 Campagnolo® 10-speed chains must be joined by use of
their “coupling rivet” system. A new chain is packaged with
one of these coupling rivets. New chains out of the package
should be sized and cut from the end the chain with inner
plates. Do not cut the end of the chain with outer plates.
If a used chain is to be removed from a bike and then
reinstalled, it must be joined with the Campagnolo® HD-Link™
system. The HD-Link is seven links (3½ inches) of new chain
plus two coupling rivets, one for either end of the HD-Link™
(figure 8.19). When using the HD-Link™, shorten the used
chain from the outer plate side by an amount equal to the
HD-Link™. The Campagnolo® 10-speed chains do not require
the “setting,” or “peening,” process used on the Campagnolo®
Insert connection rivet, tapered end first 11-speed chains.
100
CHAINS CHAPTER 8
FIGURE 8.19 coupling rivet is used only once for the life of the chain. If
the chain is removed for any reason, the original connection
rivet should not be selected to press out.
A new Campagnolo® 11-speed chain will have one end
with inner plates, and the other end will have outer plates.
Shorten new chains from the end with the inner plates. New
chains will have a zip tie in the outer plates as a reminder to
shorten from the inner-plate side.
Procedure for Campagnolo® 11-speed chain installation:
a. Lubricate coupling rivet and install the tapered end of
rivet into chain plates by hand. Pilot will hold chain
together while chain tool drives in rivet.
b. Use the Park Tool CT-4.3, CT-6.3, or appropriate chain
Campagnolo® HD-Link and the piloted rivets tool to drive coupling pin into side plates. Press the
Procedure for Campagnolo® 10-speed chain installation: coupling pin fully into the chain plates (figure 8.21). The
a. Remove old chain. Cut the chain in a section opposite coupling pin has flared sections and these can be felt as
any other coupling rivets. Pull chain from bike. you push the pin fully home. Carefully press coupling pin
b. If reinstalling the original chain, shorten chain by the until the head of the pin is flush with the side plate. The
amount equal to HD-Link™. Remove seven links from side pressure on the handle will ease at this point.
with outer plates. FIGURE 8.21
c. Lubricate coupling rivet(s).
d. Engage the coupling rivet with the pilot pushed into the
left side of the chain plate. The coupling rivet will be
pushed outward and away from bike. The chain tool handle
should be toward the spokes, and the tool pin should drive
toward the mechanic and away from the bike’s mid plane
(figure 8.20). When driving the rivet, inspect to ensure
straight alignment between chain tool pin and rivet.
e. After the rivet is fully pressed into position, remove the
pilot by pulling it from chain. Pilot does not snap off.
It is a simple slip fit onto the rivet. Inspect rivet for
centering between outer plates.
f. If reinstalling a used chain with the HD-Link™, repeat Pressing the 11-speed coupling rivet
process for second rivet. c. Unthread the chain tool handle and remove chain from
FIGURE 8.20 tool. Inspect the rivet for centering in the chain. Head of
rivet should appear to protrude as much as adjacent rivets.
d. Snap off the pilot. Use pliers or hole in body of chain
tool. Support backside of chain and place the end of tool
over the pilot. Twist horizontally either left or right to
snap the pilot.
e. Proceed to setting, or peening, process.
Setting or Peening of 11-Speed Coupling Rivet

Campagnolo® requires a secondary operation for the
11-speed coupling pin after it is installed and the pilot is
broken off. Only the Campagnolo® 11-speed requires this
step. The coupling pin pilot leaves a burr after breaking off.
Push connecting rivet from the inside toward the outside This burr is set or pushed back by a special chain tool against
an anvil. Campagnolo® term is “deforming.” The purpose
CAMPAGNOLO® 11-SPEED CHAIN is to push on the burr. The rivet should not move relative
Campagnolo® 11-speed chains have very narrow rollers of to the side plates. This is sometimes called peening, even
nominally 2.0 mm width. A typical 10-speed has rollers of though there is no change in the rivet diameter. The Park
approximately 2.1 mm. This small amount makes a difference Tool CT-4.3, CT-6.3, CT-11, or similar tool can perform this
how the chain sits in a chain tool. Use the Park Tool CT-4.2, secondary process.
CT-4.3, or CT-6.3 for work on Campagnolo® 11-speed chains. The CT-4.3, CT-6.3, and CT-11 offer an anvil for pressing the
Do not use the Park Tool CT-5, CT-6.2, CT-2, CT-3, or CT-3.2. coupling rivet. The CT-4.3 uses an anvil stud that is stored
The Campagnolo® 11-speed chains are joined with a special in handle of the tool. The anvil stud fits into the chain link
connection rivet called a “coupling pin.” This 11-speed pocket to provide support for the coupling rivet. The coupling
www.parktool.com 101
CHAPTER 8 CHAINS
rivet rests against the anvil stud as the driving pin of the tool FIGURE 8.24
drives the broken pilot into the rivet (figure 8.22). The CT-6.3
uses a swinging lever that drops into the tool slot to act as
an anvil stop (figure 8.23). The anvil features of these tools
take the pressure on the driving pin so that only the rivet is
feeling the pressure from setting the rivet. The rivet will not
move in this process.
FIGURE 8.22
Common derailleur chain master link

between rear sprockets and front chainrings. Hold wheel and
press on pedals to lock link. Inspect link to ensure that it is
fully engaged.
Some brands of master links are reusable, while others must
be replaced after each removal. Use a chain tool on the rivet
of a non-removable master link and push it through the outer
The CT-4.3 anvil stud in place for the process of setting coupling rivet plate. This will destroy the link. Install a new master link
FIGURE 8.23 when installing the chain.
For reusable master links, drop the chain off the front rings
to relax tension. Squeeze the outer plates together. Push one
plate forward and one plate backward. This will disengage the
two outer plates. Pull plates sideways and remove the master
link pieces from the chain (figure 8.25). Use of the Park Tool
MLP-1.2 will speed the process.
FIGURE 8.25
CT-6.3 used to set the Campagnolo 11-speed coupling pin

Procedure for setting Campagnolo® 11-speed coupling rivet:
a. Install chain at coupling pin into the anvil feature of CT-
11, CT-4.3, or CT-6.3. Driving pin of chain tool should
face broken end of coupling rivet.
b. Turn handle of tool until driving pin just contacts
coupling rivet (figure 8.23). From this point, turn handle
no more then ¼ turn clockwise. Push plates of removable master links to disengage
c. Remove chain from tool and inspect for tight link.
CHAIN WITH REUSABLE RIVETS
CHAINS WITH MASTER LINK There are some brands and models of chains that are
Several chain manufacturers such as SRAM®, KMC®, serviced by partially pressing out a rivet for the outer plate,
Wipperman®, and others offer a master link to join the chain, then re-pressing the same rivet to rejoin the chain. Generally,
which allows the end of the chain to be joined without a these tend to be only older style for the wider chains use on
special connecting rivet. Be sure to read the manufacturer’s 5, 6, or 7 rear sprocket sets, or for two-sprocket bikes. Check
specific directions. Typically, the bicycle chain ends must have the manufacturer’s literature when in doubt.
inner plates on each end before joining. Neither chain end Procedure for removal of chain with reusable rivets:
will present outer plates. The master link comes as two outer a. Place the chain in the chain tool.
plates joined by a rivet, which then snaps together. Install b. Drive chain tool pin until it contacts chain rivet.
one piece of the master link through one end of the chain. c. For most brand chain tools, turn handle five complete
Install the second piece through the other end of the chain turns (four complete turns for the Park Tool CT-3 and CT-
but facing the opposite direction (figure 8.24). Engage the 3.2). Use care not to drive out chain rivet.
two pieces so link rivet mates to link plate hole. Pull chain d. Turn handle counter-clockwise to back out chain tool pin
to lock the link. To fully lock chain, move link to top section from chain. Lift chain out of the tool.
102
CHAINS CHAPTER 8
e. Grab chain on either side of protruding rivet. Flex FIGURE 8.27

chain toward the protruding chain rivet and pull on
chain to separate.
f. If chain does not easily separate, place chain back into
chain tool, press rivet slightly, and attempt to pull chain
apart as in step “e.”
Procedure for installation of chain with reusable rivets:
a. Reinstall chain on bike with protruding rivet facing
toward mechanic.
b. Open empty outer plates slightly and insert inner plates.
Push inner plates until hole aligns with chain rivet.
c. Back the chain tool pin into tool body to make room for
chain rivet.
d. Place roller into alignment prongs with chain rivet facing Watch for jumping or hopping of chain while backpedaling
chain tool pin. handling a dirty chain. If this is a problem, use a rag over
e. Drive chain rivet back into chain. Take care to center the chain.
rivet exactly between both outer plates. If more chain Locate the tight link as described above. Grab either side of
rivet appears on one side of outer plate than other, push chain with your hands, and place both thumbs at the tight
rivet until it is evenly spaced (figure 8.26). rivet. Pull backward with your fingers, while pressing forward
f. Inspect for tight links and repair as necessary. with your thumbs to flex the tight link (figure 8.28). Reverse
FIGURE 8.26 pressure to flex chain the opposite direction. Press forward
with your hands while pressing backward with the index
fingers centered on tight rivet. Test link to see if it moves
freely and repeat if necessary.
FIGURE 8.28
This rivet is not centered between outer plates and will likely fail under use
TIGHT LINK REPAIR

A tight link occurs when a chain does not pass smoothly
through the bends of the rear derailleur. The inner plates Grab chain and flex laterally at tight link
and outer plates do not pivot freely around the rivet and FIGURE 8.29
feel “tight” when the chain bends. This may be from a lack
of lubrication at the offending link or the result of improper
chain installation. If the two outer chain plates are pushed
tightly against the inner chain plates, the link will tend to
hop and skip at the derailleur. If the pressure on the inner
plates can be removed, the tight link can be fixed.
To locate a tight link, put the chain in the smallest rear
sprocket in back and on the middle ring of a triple crankset
or the smallest ring of a double crankset. This relieves tension
on the chain and allows problem links to show up. Backpedal
slowly by hand and watch chain as it passes through the
two pulley wheels of the rear derailleur. Look for popping or
jumping of the chain or movement in the derailleur arm. Keep Press as little as necessary to spread outer plates of tight link
backpedaling slowly. Tight links should show up as they pass Some chain tools have a tight link repair system built into
by the bends of the lower pulley wheel (figure 8.27). the tool. Some very narrow chains may not fit the tight link
Physically stressing and flexing the chain laterally typically prongs. Tight link prongs hold an inner chain plate but do
repairs tight links. Use care not to bend and deform the not support the outer plate on the far side. The tool pin will
plates by using too much force. To avoid damaging your drive the rivet and widen the chain at the point of the tight
chain, practice on a section of scrap chain. Use care when link. To use this feature, engage the tight rivet in the tight
CHAPTER 8 CHAINS
link prongs. Turn chain tool handle until the pin just touches FIGURE 8.31
rivet of tight link and note the position of the handle (figure
8.29). Turn handle only ⅛ turn clockwise. Remove chain
tool and feel tight link. Repeat as necessary, pushing rivet
from other side of chain. Inspect chain rivet. Rivet must be
centered in chain plates.
CHAIN SIZING AND TENSION ADJUSTMENT:

TWO-SPROCKET BICYCLES
Two-sprocket bicycles use a single sprocket, or chainring,
at the cranks and a single sprocket at the rear wheel. Two-
sprocket bikes include internally-geared hub bikes, one-
speed bikes, coaster brake bikes, BMX/Freestyle, and track
bikes. These bikes require a shorter chain than derailleur- Use front ring to help hold chain end for chain sizing
equipped bicycles. chain slack, add 1 inch to chain length. The chain must
Typically, two-sprocket bicycles use horizontal dropouts. This have enough slack in this position to allow it to be lifted
allows chain tension to be adjusted by moving the rear sprocket from front ring.
forward or backwards relative to the front sprocket. Dropouts f. Make note of the appropriate rivet to use in shortening
may be either forward or backwards facing (figure 8.30). the chain.
Chain length for bikes without a chain tension device g. Remove the rear wheel and shorten the chain accordingly.
is ideally set to allow the hub axle to sit approximately h. With chain correctly routed through frame, join ends
halfway in the dropouts. Similar to derailleur chains, length of chain.
is changed in increments of 1 inch. As a rule of thumb, if a i. Install wheel and confirm that chain length and chain
chain is lengthened or shortened by 1 inch, it will move the tension are acceptable.
rear axle ¼ to ½ inch (6−13 mm) in the rear dropouts.
FIGURE 8.30 CHAIN TENSION: TWO-SPROCKET BIKES
Chain tension on two-sprocket bikes should be set tight
enough so that it does not come off during use and operates
smoothly when pedaled. Bikes without a chain tension idler
arm are adjusted by moving the rear hub forward or backward
in the dropouts. When checking chain tension, do not touch
chain on its inner perimeter. Check tension by touching only
the outside loop of the chain to minimize any risk of getting
your fingers caught in sprocket teeth.
Procedure for tension adjustment with two-sprocket bike:
a. Install the rear wheel with chain engaged on both rear
and front sprockets.
b. Pull wheel back in dropouts and align wheel centered
Horizontal dropout on a one-speed bike between chain stays.
Procedure for chain sizing with two-sprocket bike: c. If the bike uses a coaster brake or a band brake, secure
a. Install rear wheel in the bike. For horizontal dropouts, the brake arm to the bike frame.
place the axle all the way forward in the dropout slot. With d. Secure axle nuts or quick release.
forward facing dropouts, secure the axle nut so they are e. Check tension on chain. Touch only outer perimeter of
fully engaged on dropouts but as far forward as possible. chain loop. Push the chain downward and upward in the
b. Wrap the chain around the front and rear sprockets. The FIGURE 8.32
front sprocket can be used to help hold both ends of the
chain while determining chain length, as described in
the next steps.
c. Place the chain end on the front ring so the chain
end will be on the ring about the two or three o’clock
position (figure 8.31). Engage any master link to account
for all the links when determining chain length.
d. Pull the chain snug and find the closest rivet on the lower
section that would connect to end coming from the upper
section. The outer plate must attach to an inner plate.
e. If the appropriate inner and outer plates of the chain
ends are too short to meet, add two rivets (1 inch) to
the chain length. If appropriate chain ends meet with no Pull up and down at middle of chain to test chain tension
104
CHAINS CHAPTER 8
middle. There should be approximately ½ inch (12 mm) FIGURE 8.34

movement of the chain up and down at a point half way
between front and rear sprockets (figure 8.32).
f. To change the tension, loosen the axle nuts and move
the wheel forward or backward slightly. Check that rear
wheel is centered in frame and re-secure axle nuts.
g. Rotate cranks and inspect the chain tension for any
tight or loose positions as the crank arms turn. It is not
uncommon for sprockets to be out of round. This will
result in the chain being tighter at some points of its
rotation. After setting chain tension, pedal the bike in a
repair stand and check the tension all the way through
the crank rotation. If necessary, readjust so there is only
¼ inch (6 mm) movement at the tightest point. Eccentric bottom bracket with setscrews binder
h. Test for a loose adjustment. Rotate pedals and push and some single-speed bikes. Eccentric bottom brackets use an
sideways on the chain at a point in between the front oversized shell that houses the bottom bracket bearing unit
and rear sprockets. The chain will make a rattling sound, (figure 8.34). The axle is offset from the center of the shell.
but it should not derail. If the chain comes off either The crank will move further away from or closer to the rear
front or rear sprocket, increase tension by moving the axle as the eccentric is rotated around in the frame shell. The
wheel further back. eccentric is rotated until there is correct chain tension and
then locked into position.
CHAIN TENSION: TWO-SPROCKET BIKES WITH There are several systems of locking the eccentric. The
CHAIN TENSION IDLER DEVICE frame shell may be split and held secure with a pinch-bolt,
If the bicycle uses a vertical dropout, it is typically similar to stems or seat tube clamping systems. Other designs
necessary to use an idler wheel as a chain tension device. use a wedge-bolt system, similar to wedge-type quill stems.
Vertical dropouts do not permit the adjustments necessary to The bolt tightens and the wedge jams inside the frame shell
set chain tension. A chain tensioner is fitted to the derailleur to hold the eccentric. Another option uses setscrew fittings
mount and provides a single pulley wheel that will tension welded into the shell.
the chain (figure 8.33). A common rear derailleur may also be To set chain tension with eccentric systems begin by
used as a tensioner idler simply by setting the limit screw so loosening the binder on the bottom bracket shell. There
the upper pulley is aligned with the single cog. will commonly be pinholes for a pin spanner such as the
FIGURE 8.33 Park Tool SPA-1. Rotate the eccentric in the shell and note
changes in chain tension. Tension increases when crank is
rotated forward. Set tension so there is approximately ½ inch
(12 mm) play in chain when pulled up and down between
front and rear sprockets.
Tandem Crank Synchronizing

Tandem bicycles connect the front rider (“captain”) to the
person behind (“stoker”) with a single loop of chain. The
chain is engaged on the front ring and rear ring such that
front and rear cranks are synchronized.
To install a front tandem chain, loosen the eccentric and
rotate the bottom bracket so the spindle is closer to the
Vertical dropout with a chain tension device stoker crank, creating slack in the chain. Begin with both
The chain tension idler arm is similar to the cage of a of the left side cranks pointing directly down at the six
derailleur. A spring gives tension to the idler pulley, which o’clock position. It can help to remove the right side cranks,
will take up chain slack. To determine chain length, wrap the which allows the left side arms to point downward from
chain over front and rear sprockets, and around the pulley. their weight.
Pull chain tightly to determine shortest possible length and Pull the connecting chain taut above the front and
then add 1 inch (two links) of extra chain. Select link and cut rear rings. Engage the chain on each ring simultaneously
chain accordingly. using care not to move cranks. Wrap chain below each
ring and join chain at lower section of loop. Chain length
CHAIN TENSION: ECCENTRIC BOTTOM is set in one-inch increments. Only inner link and outer
BRACKETS ON TANDEM AND SINGLE-SPEEDS link segments of chain may be joined. Pull chain snug
Eccentric bottom bracket designs allow the crank to move to determine which link to cut. Cut the next link 1 inch
forward or backward relative to the rear sprocket to adjust longer if necessary. Set chain tension with eccentric as
chain tension. They are found on the front cranks of tandems described above.
CHAPTER 8 CHAINS
CHAIN WEAR AND DAMAGE As the chain is used, wear develops at the rivet and inner
The chain is a critical part of bicycle performance and plates where it pivots. The play occurs at each link of the
safety. Chain will tend to fail when under load and stress, chain. The cumulative effect of wear across many links is that
which is the worst possible time. The common cause of the chain appears to “stretch.” However, chain plates do not
chain failure is a rivet pulled from an outer plate (figure literally stretch and get longer; the wear is in the joint at
8.35). This is typically the result of a poorly installed chain. each rivet. Reversing the chain or flipping the chain around
Inspect chains often. Sight the chain from above and look will not add to chain life, as the rivets will still have the same
at each rivet for centering in the side plates. If a rivet sticks amount of wear.
out of one side plate more than the other links, the suspect Figure 8.38 shows a chain and chainring shown under
link may fail. Use the chain tool to correct this problem. a forward pedaling pressure. A worn chain rides up the
Also inspect the outer side plates for spreading from the chainring profile and will no longer engage between the
inner plates. Each link should look the same. If a chain sprocket teeth. On a rear cog, the problem is worse because
becomes jammed during an over shift, it may stress the there may be only two or three teeth engaged. A worn chain
plates, pulling them apart. This can also result in a twisted may then skip over the rear sprocket under pedaling load.
link (figure 8.36). Inspect the rollers for any signs of wear FIGURE 8.38
(figure 8.37).
FIGURE 8.35
Left: a new chain fully engaging teeth of sprocket

Right: worn chain not sitting fully on sprocket
Damaged side plate. Repair of plate is not possible. Bicycle sprocket teeth are cut to fit chains with ½ inch
between each roller and rivet. However, not even brand new
FIGURE 8.36
bicycle chains measure exactly ½ inch between rivets. A small
amount of play must be included for new chains to bend. As the
chain is ridden and it wears, play at each link gets greater, and
the distance between each rivet increases. Eventually, the chain
rollers no longer sit fully down in the sprocket teeth. The rollers
ride up the shoulder of the sprocket teeth. The chain then
skips over the teeth, especially when extra force is applied to
the pedals, such as when climbing or sprinting. Although chain
manufacturers vary, most recommend 9- and 10-speed chains be
replaced when the chain reaches wear between 0.5% to 0.75%
from the nominal ½ inch pitch. Thiswear can be measured
with chain measuring tools such as the Park Tool CC-2 or CC-3.2
Any twist in the chain requires complete chain replacement Chain Wear Indicators (figure 8.39). Replacing worn chains will
Rollers showing signs of wear will require complete chain replacement Park Tool CC-3.2 Chain Checker indicating a worn chain
106
CHAINS CHAPTER 8
help to get more life out the rear sprockets, which tend to be a stiff bristle brush and scrub the plates on both sides of
more expensive. However, even with regular chain replacement, the chain. Unfold the chain and scrub downward on rollers
the rear cogs will eventually wear out and require replacement. and between side plates. flip chain and scrub other side the
As the bike is ridden, the entire drivetrain will wear. same way. Rinse chain in solvent. Remove it from pan and
Generally, it is most economical to replace the cheapest item allow solvent to drip off as much as possible. Wipe with rag
first in order to extend the overall life of the drivetrain. The and allow to completely dry before lubricating. If available,
cheapest component of the drivetrain (the chainrings, chain, use compressed air to blow-dry the chain, especially between
and rear sprocket cluster) is the chain, and it also suffers the rollers. Wear safety glasses when using compressed air to
most wear. Chains and sprockets often wear out together. If blow-dry the chain.
a new chain skips over worn rear or front sprockets, then the Dispose of old solvent properly. Contact your local
sprockets must also be replaced. hazardous waste agency.
CHAIN CLEANING CHAIN LUBRICATION

There are more moving parts in the chain than any other Chain rivets and link pivots require lubrication. The chain
part on the bike. Dirt and grit in the chain will wear on rivet and the narrower pair of chain plates rotate when
the rivets. Cleaning will add life to the chain and improve traveling around a sprocket. Lubrication is required only
performance. Before cleaning the chain, brush clean the at the rivet, not all over the outer plates. A drip applicator
derailleur pulley wheels. It may be necessary to scrape helps avoid applying too much lubrication, which can attract
the sides with a screwdriver if extremely dirty. Scrape rear dirt. Proper lubrication will take time and patience. While
sprockets with gear comb, such as the Park Tool GSC-1, or lubricating, inspect the chain rollers and rivets.
the blade of a thin screwdriver. For thorough cleaning, use The type of riding and location best determines the type of
a rag and pull a section taut to “floss” between sprockets. chain lubrication. If the user is in a generally wet and humid
Also wipe the chainrings before cleaning the chain if they are area with a lot of precipitation, select a thicker lubricant that
extremely dirty. will adhere to the chain. Very dry areas tend to also be dusty,
Chain cleaning tools, such as the Park Tool CM-5.2 Cyclone and a thick, heavy lubricant will result in collecting lots of
Chain Scrubber, make cleaning the chain easier. Generally, dirt on the chain. A thin lubricant such as “dry” lubricant
these systems are boxes that hold solvent and brushes. Passing would do better in these locations. Riding on gravel bike
the chain through the brushes and solvent cleans the chain. paths also throws more dirt up on the drivetrain.
Follow manufacturer’s directions for use. Expect some spray of To properly lubricate a chain, it is best to begin with a
dirt and solvent when using any chain cleaner. Using a diluted clean chain. In any case, wipe chain off with a rag. Inspect
soap solution for a second scrub will also help the cleaning chain for a master link or connecting rivet to act as a
process. To protect the floor, place a newspaper or drop cloth reference. Apply a drop of lubricant on each roller and at
under the bike. Used as part of a regular cleaning schedule, each side plate at the rivet (figure 8.41). Lubricate each rivet
these systems can add to the life of the chain (figure 8.40). between rear sprockets and front chainring. Turn cranks
If the chain system uses a reusable master link, it can also backwards to advance to the next section of un-lubricated
be removed and cleaned off the bike. Use a sink, pan, or large chain. Lubricate this section and advance chain again.
can. Remove the chain, grab by one end, and fold once in the Continue until each rivet is lubricated once. Avoid over-
middle. Lay the chain on a flat surface and coil the chain with lubricating the chain. Turn pedals to allow lubricant to work
loose ends in middle. Place chain in the pan and cover with into pivots. Wipe outside of chain with a rag to remove excess
solvent. Allow it to soak for some time. Use rubber gloves to lubricant. Repeat the process when the chain appears dry or
protect the hands and work with adequate ventilation. Use begins to squeak.
Chain cleaning with chain still on the bike Lubricate and inspect chain in the same procedure
9 Derailleur systems
Derailleur systems
CHAPTER 9 DERAILLEUR SYSTEMS
D erailleurs are mechanisms that move the chain from

sprocket to sprocket. They allow the cyclist to use
different sprocket combinations for low gear ratios
for going uphill and high gear ratios for going downhill.
A derailleur pushes or “derails” the chain to move it from
in a 4 mm or 5 mm outside diameter. There is no effective
difference between the two. However, housing end caps must
fit snuggly over the housing outside diameter.
“Braided” or “woven” housing may be used for both brake
and derailleur housing (figure 9.2). The outer support wires
one sprocket to another. The derailleur system consists of are woven in a mesh around the liner.
the shift levers, cable housing, derailleur cable, and the FIGURE 9.2
derailleur. Some derailleur systems are now electronically
controlled and are reviewed at the end of this chapter.
All derailleur systems require occasional maintenance,
adjustment, and parts replacement.
Some shift levers use a dial showing the cyclist reference
numbers for gears. These are arbitrary numbers and do not
represent the order of gear ratios in the shifting sequence.
For example, the number “6” showing on a lever dial does
not mean the sixth gear out of the total number of ratios
available. These reference numbers will not be used here. This
chapter will use the terms “inner” and “outer” sprockets,
as well as “smallest” and “largest” sprocket. The rear cog
closest to the spokes is the “innermost” cog, and the smallest Braided housing usable for shift or brake housing
cog nearest the rear dropout is the “outermost” cog. For FIGURE 9.3
chainrings, largest chainring is the outermost ring, and
smallest chainring is also the innermost ring. The “middle” on
a triple crankset is the one between the inner and outer rings.
CABLE SYSTEM
The connection between the shift lever and the derailleur
is the cable system. The cable system consists of an inner
derailleur cable, an outer derailleur housing, and derailleur
housing end caps. The housing is the casing that routes the
derailleur cable from the shift lever to the frame and then
eventually to the derailleur. Motion of the derailleur cable
causes the derailleur to move. Dirty, rusty, or worn derailleur
cables and housing will not consistently and effectively Articulated housing on a rear derailleur
transfer the shift lever motion to the derailleur because of A third housing option is “articulated housing,” which uses
friction inside the housing. small metal segments strung together like beads over a liner
Derailleur cable housing for index shifting bikes is called (figure 9.3). Articulated housing can be effective when tight
“compressionless” derailleur housing. Compressionless housing bends in the housing are required. With articulated housings,
is stiffer than brake housing and provides better shifting there is very little flex along the length of the housing.
performance, even for non-indexing “friction” shifting Compressionless and woven derailleur housing should be
systems. The derailleur cable runs inside a plastic liner, which cut with proper bicycle cable cutters. Bicycle cable cutter
is surrounded by support wires that run longitudinally with jaws surround the cut and shear the multiple strands of
the cable (figure 9.1). Compressionless housing is available compressionless housing, woven housing, brake cable, or
derailleur cable, causing less fraying. Firmly hold the housing
FIGURE 9.1
FIGURE 9.4
Compressionless derailleur housing with outer plastic cover cut away

showing support wires inside Hold compressionless housing square to jaws of cable cutter
110
DERAILLEUR SYSTEMS CHAPTER 9
or cable adjacent to cutting point. Hold housing or cable derailleur cable are coated to help reduce drag and friction. A
squarely with the cutting jaws and squeeze the handle (figure derailleur cable should never be used as a brake cable.
9.4). Cutting may slightly deform the housing end. Use the If the derailleur cable is partially cut anywhere from use or
reforming jaws section of the Park Tool CN-10 Professional Cable damage between the lever and the cable pinch bolt, it should
and Housing Cutter and gently reshape the housing (figure be replaced. Even the failure of a single strand of cable will
9.5). If the housing liner is pinched closed, open the liner with eventually lead to a cable break (figure 9.7).
a sharp pointed object, such as a seal pick or safety pin.
FIGURE 9.5 CABLE HOUSING LENGTH AND ROUTING
The cable and housing must travel from the front shift
levers to the corresponding derailleur. It is useful to look
at the previous routing, but do not assume it is correct.
Appropriate derailleur housing lengths will help ensure that
the bike shifts well. Generally, derailleur housing should be
as short as possible yet still approach the derailleur housing
stops in the frame, adjusting barrel, shift lever, and derailleur
in a straight line. If the housing is too long and forces the
cable to pass through excessive housing, it will add friction.
If the housing is too short and creates kinks, it will cause
excessive friction. Short housing will also bend or twist the
end cap as it sits in the barrel adjuster (figure 9.8). Properly
Reshape compressionless housing after cutting sized housing will enter the derailleur in a straight line and
FIGURE 9.6 will not bend the end cap (figure 9.9).
FIGURE 9.8
Derailleur cable with head

Common derailleur cable is 1.2 mm in diameter with a Housing does not enter the barrel adjuster in a straight line,
indicating housing is too short
small cylindrical head at one end, which is about 4.3 mm in
diameter (figure 9.6). However, Campagnolo shift levers use a FIGURE 9.9
slightly smaller cable end of 4 mm. Do not use the common
4.3 mm cable end in Campagnolo levers, or the cable end may
become stuck in the shifter. The lever moves the cable end
carrier, or cable end socket, which pulls on the cable end.
High quality derailleur cables have a smooth outer finish
to reduce drag in the derailleur housing. Some brands of
FIGURE 9.7
Housing enters derailleur adjusting barrel without a severe bend

On some bicycles, the front housing loops from the shift
levers to the frame may be purposely switched from left to
right side housing stops to improve the routing. The left
shifter housing is passed to the right side stop and vice versa.
This is called “crossing-over” (figure 9.10). The derailleur
cable must then cross back over in order to arrive at the
Inspect and replace cables with broken wires corresponding derailleur. Crossing-over may in some cases
FIGURE 9.10 Some bicycle designs route the housing internally through
the frame tubing (figure 9.12). Better bike designs use an
inner guide to route the derailleur cable and/or housing
in and out of the frame. If there is no guide inside, it can
be difficult to get the housing through the frame. Feed the
housing through one end and then use a stiff wire, such as a
spoke, to help catch and guide the housing out the frame hole
at the other end. To replace housing that is already in place,
feed a derailleur cable into the back end of the housing and
out the front. Pull the housing from the frame while leaving
the derailleur cable in place to act as a guide when installing
the new piece. Feed the derailleur cable into the new housing
and push the new housing along the cable into the frame.
FIGURE 9.12
Shift housing routed to crossing-over from levers to housing stop.

Notice cable must again cross back under down tube.
reduce bends in the housing by creating a straighter line for
the housing. This can also help eliminate housing rub on the
frame. Crossing-over, however, will not work well on all bikes.
If the cable rubs on a frame tube, such as the down tube, or if
there are severe bends resulting in other parts of the system,
do not cross over. It is both common and acceptable for the
derailleur cables to lightly touch when crossing back.
Internal routing for shift and brake housing
CABLE LUBRICATION
Dirt, corrosion, or rust in the cable systems will cause drag SHIFT LEVERS
as the cable move through the housing, resulting in poor The derailleur cable head will sit in a socket or carrier in
shifting. Derailleur cables can often be wiped clean and re- the shift lever. The shift lever moves the carrier or socket
lubricated without taking them off the bike. Shift the rear and pulls the derailleur cable, which will move the derailleur.
derailleur to the sprocket with the tightest derailleur cable Indexing shift levers use a “dwell” system of “clicks” or stops
tension. Stop rotating the cranks and release derailleur at predetermined positions to align the derailleur pulleys and
cable tension by shifting the lever as if shifting to the chain to the sprockets.
other extreme sprocket. Do not rotate the cranks. Push the Some bicycles use a friction shift lever system where the
derailleur body to the outside to further release tension for lever has no preset stops. Cyclists must listen and feel when
extra slack on the derailleur cable. Pull housing ends from the derailleur has reached correct alignment under the
guides and stops (figure 9.11). Wipe derailleur cable clean appropriate sprocket to properly engage the sprocket and
and apply light lubricant. If wiping does not remove rust, the prevent excessive chain noise from misalignment.
derailleur cable should be replaced. Push derailleur again to Shift levers with indexing features must be compatible
release tension in order to replace the housing in the stops. with the derailleur, cassette, and crankset. The spacing
Rotate the cranks to shift the derailleur. Double-check that between rear cogs will vary with the number of cogs. As
the housing is fully inserted into all stops. the number of cassette cogs increases, the spacing between
FIGURE 9.11 cogs narrows, and the shifter must pull the corresponding
correct amount of cable. Cog spacing can also vary between
different manufacturers. There is no comprehensive table
of interchangeable systems. In some cases, it may not be
possible to know if different models/brands are compatible
until they are installed, adjusted, and test ridden.
Some models of front derailleur shifters allow for “half-
clicks” and allow the front derailleur to be “trimmed.” This
slight movement of the cage is used to prevent rubbing
when the chain moves left to right on the rear sprocket
combinations. Not all gear combinations are useable even
with a trim feature because the chain may rub against the
chainrings and not the front derailleur cage. In these cases,
Remove housing from frame stop to clean and lubricate cable simply avoid using that gear combination.
112
The type and design of shift lever varies with the FIGURE 9.14
handlebar or bike it is intended to fit. Flat bars shifters are
designed for 22 mm diameter handlebar ends. Road brake/
shift levers are designed for the larger 23.5 mm diameter
curved drop handlebars.
For shift cable installation and removal, all shift lever
models and brands should be set so the cable is in the
slackest or most relaxed position. The cable tension will be
lowest when the derailleurs are set to the smallest sprockets
front and rear. The Shimano® Rapid Rise™ system is an
exception to this setting. Setting the rear Rapid Rise™
derailleur to the largest rear sprocket places its cable in the
most relaxed position.
Remove plastic cover to install cable into cable carrier
FLAT BAR TRIGGER SHIFTERS FIGURE 9.15
Flat bar trigger shifters mount adjacent to the grips.
Shimano® produces “dual control” brake/shifter combination
sets. If the lever is integrated with the brake, alignment
preference should be given to the brake lever. Set levers at
approximately a 45-degree downward slope from horizontal
using the mounting bolt. Some models of shifters also include
a separate shift lever lateral positioning option.
Shimano® has numerous models and generations of trigger-
type shifters. There are two common cable installation
methods. Inspect the lever and follow a line from the cable
housing, looking for a screw head. Shift the lever so the cable
is in the most relaxed position with no tension. Remove the
screw. Detach cable from derailleur and push the cable head out Feed cable through sifter aiming for the light
of the lever (figure 9.13). Install new cable and install screw. hole for the cable, and it can be helpful to shine a flashlight
FIGURE 9.13 through the barrel adjuster (figure 9.15). Look for the light
source and feed cable accordingly.
The SRAM® trigger shifters such as the current “X” series
(X7, X9, X.O, XX and XX1) use a plastic or carbon fiber cover
over the cable access hole. It may be difficult or impossible
to remove the cable access cover with the shifter in place on
the handlebars. These shifter models may be unbolted from
clamps or from the brake lever mounts. When necessary,
remove the shifter from the bracket to get the cover off and
install a new cable.
Inspect the shifter for the type of cover. Some models (X9,
X7) use a rubber cover over the cable end. Lift up the end of
the cover to expose the cable end (figure 9.16). Feed out and
Shimano® trigger shifter with outboard cable installation
in through this hole. Replace the rubber cover and reinstall
Another Shimano® trigger shifter design involves removing the shifter to the handlebar mount.
shrouding that covers the cable end. Shift to the most relaxed
derailleur cable position and detach the cable from the FIGURE 9.16
derailleur. Inspect for small screws on shifter cover. Remove
screw(s) and remove cover. The cable end is fitted to a cable
end carrier. It may require a small screwdriver to lift the
carrier and install the cable end (figure 9.14).
SRAM® trigger shifters use different cable installation ports
depending upon model and year. Inspect for a plastic access
screw head on the outboard side of the lever. Shift to the
most relaxed derailleur cable position and detach cable from
derailleur. Remove screw and push cable out. For installation,
make sure the small shift lever has been pushed to return
cable carrier to the most relaxed position. Feed cable through
hole and out barrel adjuster. It can be difficult to find the Pull up on the rubber cover to expose the cable access hole
For SRAM® trigger shifters using a carbon fiber or plastic position and remove the cover. Detach the derailleur cable
plate, again, remove the lever from the handlebar. Inspect from the derailleur and then push the derailleur cable
for a fastener in the middle of the cover. Remove the nut toward the lever. Some models may have a small setscrew
counter-clockwise relative to the plate. Depending upon over the derailleur cable end. Use a hex wrench to remove
the model, use either your fingers or a T10 Torx® wrench to this screw. Other models use a small clip to hold the
loosen and remove the cover plate screw or nut. The cable end derailleur cable end. Use a small screwdriver to pry back the
carrier is under shifter return spring or plate. Use a small- clip and then push the cable to remove it from the lever
tipped screwdriver or seal pick to carefully lift cable end while (figure 9.19).
pushing on cable (figure 9.17). FIGURE 9.19
Installation of the cable is the reverse process. It can help
to slightly bend the end of the cable to help feed it through
cable carrier. Removing the barrel adjuster provides a large
hole for cable to pass. Pull cable into place and check that
the spring was not displaced. Reinstall barrel adjuster and
reinstall cover plate.
FIGURE 9.17
Use small screwdriver to access cable end

The SRAM® XX1 twist grip has a cable access hole
below a plastic cover. Shift the derailleur to the smallest
sprocket and unbolt the cable from the derailleur. Loosen
the brake lever clamp to move the brake lever inwards to
allow room for removal of the retaining ring and cover. Use
a 3 mm hex wrench to loosen the retaining ring and pull
Removing cable end from SRAM® trigger shifter in away from the shifter. Pull the shrouding away from the
lever to expose the cable end (figure 9.20). Push the cable
TWIST GRIP SHIFTERS from the adjusting barrel side to free the cable end from
Twist grip shifters mount to flat or upright handlebars. the lever.
The twist grip body can be rotated around the handlebars. After installing a new cable, reinstall the shrouding. Push
Twist grip shifters mount to the handlebar between the retaining ring back into place and secure. Move brake lever
brake levers and a bar grips. Check that shifters do not back to original position and secure.
interfere with brake levers when brake levers are squeezed FIGURE 9.20
with maximum force. Look for a setscrew that locks the lever
to the handlebars (figure 9.18). Use a hex wrench to loosen
the screw and rotate shifter body so cable housing follows a
smooth line to the frame stop.
There have been different generations of twist grip shift
levers, and installation of the derailleur cable can vary. A
common style has an access hole with a plastic or rubber
cover. Shift the lever to the most relaxed derailleur cable
FIGURE 9.18
Remove SRAM® XX1 twist grip retaining ring and shrouding to

expose cable end
ABOVE-THE-BAR SHIFTERS
The above-the-bar shifters (also called “thumb shifters”) are
designed for upright handlebars. Placement should be close to
the grip, and the body of the shifter should point downward
at a slight angle (figure 9.21).
The derailleur cable is simply fed through a hole in the shift
SRAM® twist grip shifter and location of setscrew lever and then through the housing to the derailleur.
114
Above-the-bar shift lever Cable access hole located under the body
rubber brake lever hood forward to expose the cable entry
DROP BAR INTEGRAL BRAKE/SHIFT LEVERS under the lever body. The cable feeds upward through this
Shimano®, SRAM®, and Campagnolo® drop bar levers hole and exits out the back of the body into the shift housing
combine shifting and braking into the same lever system. (figure 9.24).
Brake lever placement will determine how the shift levers are The Shimano® Dura-Ace® ST-9000 is a mechanical 11-speed
aligned (figure 9.22). shift/brake lever. A plastic cover on the inboard side of the
Shimano® shifters have two different shift cable routing lever covers the cable entrance. Pull the brake lever hood
styles. One design routes the shift cable and housing inward forward to expose the cable access cover. Pull the housing
from the front of the lever body to the housing stops on the from the lever and remove the inboard cable cover by pulling
frame. The housing is not run under the handlebar tape but the exposed cable inward and forward (figure 9.25). Push the
loops in front of the head tube. For this style, feed the cut cable from the inboard side outward. The cable end must exit
end of the cable through the socket from the outboard side from the larger opening out the outboard side. Pull on the
(figure 9.23). Pull cable fully through until the head engages cable end to remove.
inside the socket. As with all shifters, to install a new cable the lever must
Shimano® also uses designs that run the shift housing be in the smallest sprocket position. Pull back on the lever
under the bar tape to the back of the lever body. Pull the FIGURE 9.25
FIGURE 9.22
Use cable to pull open cable access cover

Align brake/shift levers relative to lower section of drop handlebars
FIGURE 9.26
FIGURE 9.23
Installing the cable on the BR-9000 lever. Cable end is bent down
Feed cable through socket at top of lever to engage cable carrier.
hood to expose the cable entrance on the outboard side of the FIGURE 9.29
body. If still in place, remove the plastic cover on the inboard
side of the lever. Feed the cable end through the upper hole
and in straight line through the lever body (figure 9.26). The
cable head is bent downward to fit through the larger hole in
the access slot into the cable carrier.
Campagnolo®
For Campagnolo® Ergopower® levers, pull the rubber lever
hood forward to expose the cable anchor under the lever body.
Feed derailleur cable upward through anchor and out the top
of the lever (figure 9.27). Housing and end cap enter lever
from the top and run underneath the handlebar tape.
Typical down tube shifters
FIGURE 9.27
BAR END SHIFTERS

Bar end shifters are fitted into the ends of drop style
handlebars or to the end of “aero” handlebars (figure 9.30).
These levers secure inside the ends of the bars in place of
end caps. The derailleur housing is then routed along the
handlebar underneath the bar tape or, in some cases, through
the bar itself. The derailleur cable is fed through a hole in the
lever and through the housing.
FIGURE 9.30
Cable access is under lever body

For SRAM® Double Tap levers, the cables install from the
inside face of the lever body. Pull cover back on lower portion
of lever to expose wire access hole. The wire must make a
relatively quick 90-degree turn from entering horizontal to
exiting vertical. It can be useful to give the cable a slight
curve by bending it (figure 9.28). It is best to use new shift
wires or to solder the end of used wires. Freshly cut wires may
have difficulty making the bend.
FIGURE 9.28
Bar end shifter on aero handlebar set
FRONT DERAILLEUR
The front derailleur uses a cage surrounding the chain to
shove it off one front chainring and onto another. A derailleur
cable pulls the derailleur linkage to move the cage left to right
across the chainrings. A spring in the derailleur linkage returns
the cage when the derailleur cable is relaxed. A properly
adjusted front derailleur should shift the chain between
all front chainrings but should not throw the chain off the
chainrings. The basic adjustments for the front derailleur are
the height, rotation, limit screw settings, and index setting.
Cable access hole is on the inside of lever body, There are several possible systems to mount the front
and the cable exit hole is on upper side derailleur to the frame. The common system is a clamp
that is sized for the seat tube diameter. Clamp sizes are
DOWN TUBE SHIFTERS available in 28.6 mm, 31.8 mm, and 35 mm diameters. Some
Down tube shifters are mounted on the down tube and were derailleur models are sized for large tubing and use shims to
once common on road bikes (figure 9.29). The frame will have accommodate smaller sized seat tubes.
a fitting for the levers. There is no positioning adjustment for The Shimano® “E-plate” front derailleur models use a plate
these levers. The cut end of derailleur cable is fed through a that mounts over the bottom bracket shell and is held by
hole in the lever and is routed down below the bottom bracket threaded bottom bracket adaptors or by threaded fitting at
to the appropriate derailleur. the shell (figure 9.31). The derailleur is fixed in both height
116
E-plate front derailleur

and rotation settings. The only adjustment is with limit screw
settings. The E-plate must be used with compatible chainring
spacing, chainring sizes, and chainline.
The Shimano® FD-9000 front derailleur has special Checking a direct mount derailleur height using a 2.5mm
adjustment procedures and is reviewed later in this chapter. hex wrench. A single bolt permits height changes (A).
A common road bike mounting system is referred to as a FIGURE 9.34
“braze-on.” A concave bracket is mounted to the seat tube
and allows limited height and rotational settings. This may
be welded (“brazed”) to steel frames but is riveted, bolted,
or glued to aluminum or carbon fiber tubing. The braze-on
compatible front derailleur body is made with a convex radius
to fit the concave braze-on. Clamp-on brackets with the
braze-on fitting are available for seat tubes without braze-on
mounts (figure 9.32).
FIGURE 9.32
Top: shallow cage derailleur; Bottom: deep cage derailleur

Most modern front derailleur cages are moved by a
parallelogram in a linkage system that allows the sides of the
cage to remain parallel to the chainring as it moves laterally.
There are two basic linkage designs: the “top swing” and
Clamp-on adapter for a “braze on” type front derailleur the “bottom swing.” Top swing and bottom swing derailleurs
The “direct mount” system is a MTB mounting system differ in placement of the parallelogram in relation to the
similar to the road bike braze-on. The derailleur bolts directly derailleur clamp or bracket attachment to the frame.
to a special fitting on the seat tube (figure 9.33). Height FIGURE 9.35
adjustment is possible on this system, but there is typically
no allowance to adjust the rotational position of the direct
mounts. It is assumed the frame manufacturer has determined
acceptable derailleur rotation.
The front derailleur design will vary with the crank style
used. Common mountain bike triple cranksets have a wide
spread of chainring sizes and use a cage with a relatively wide
inner plate. This type of derailleur is called a “deep cage”
derailleur. Road bikes tend to have two front chainrings that
are relatively closer together is size and do not require a wide
plate. These derailleurs are called “shallow cage” derailleurs
(figure 9.34). Consult a professional mechanic for the correct
design for your bike. Bottom swing design with bottom cable pull
Top swing design with bottom cable pull
FIGURE 9.37
Front derailleur design allowing for either top or bottom cable pull
will function with either the cable pulling from the top or
pulling from the bottom (figure 9.39).
DERAILLEUR CABLE ATTACHMENT

The derailleur cable attaches to the front derailleur at the
fixing or pinch bolt mechanism. Unthread the bolt and look
for a groove in either the fixing washer or derailleur arm. The
derailleur cable will lay in this notch (figure 9.40). Inspect the
mechanism and keep the cable aligned with the groove. There
Bottom swing design with top cable pull may also be a tab on the washer used to prevent it from rotating.
FIGURE 9.38 While the fixing bolt is loose, lubricate the threads. Pull the
derailleur cable snug and secure the bolt. The typical torque
for the pinch bolt is approximately 4 Nm (35 inch-pounds).
The derailleur cable should be flattened where it is pinched.
FIGURE 9.40
Top swing design with top cable pull

Top swing derailleurs attach with the parallelogram swinging
above the frame clamp or bracket (figures 9.36 and 9.38). Top
swing derailleur clamps will end up lower on the seat tube as
compared to bottom swing derailleurs. Some bike frames will Derailleur cable routing is through groove under cable fixing washer
only allow the mounting of a top swing derailleur because of a
water bottle fitting or suspension fittings on the seat tube. HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT
Bottom swing derailleurs are designed so the parallelogram If the derailleur cage is too far above the large chainring,
attaches and swings below the clamp (figures 9.35 and 9.37). it will shift poorly. If the derailleur is too low, it may scrape
The clamp will end up higher on the seat tube as compared to against the chainrings and jam the chain when shifting. The
a top swing derailleur. proper height can be set with or without the derailleur cable
The derailleur cable pulls the linkage of the front derailleur. attached. Derailleurs mounted to “E-plates” or direct mount
The cable may come up from the bottom bracket. These systems normally do not allow height adjustment.
models are described as bottom pull, as their linkages are Procedure for front derailleur height adjustment:
pulled from the bottom (figures 9.35 and 9.36). If the cable a. Pull front derailleur cage plate until it is directly over
comes down the seat tube, it is referred to as a top pull outer chainring teeth. Either use the cable or pull
derailleur (figures 9.37 and 9.38). There are also models that directly on the cage.
118
FIGURE 9.41 ROTATIONAL ADJUSTMENT

Generally, the front derailleur cage should be aligned
parallel to the chain. Because the chain angle moves
when the rear derailleur is shifted left and right, use the
outermost (smallest) rear sprocket when checking the cage
rotation. If the derailleur cage is rotated too far from parallel
it may shift poorly or rub on the chain after the shift is
completed. Keeping the cage and chain parallel will minimize
the risk of the chain jumping off the outermost chainring.
If the cage is not parallel, there will be a relatively large
gap at either the back or the front end of the cage. Then
the derailleur may over-shift the chain past the chainring
(figures 9.43 and 9.44).
Set height for 1-2mm clearance at closest point between cage and teeth
FIGURE 9.43
b. The gap between the teeth of the outer chainring
and the lower edge of the outer cage plate should
be 1−2 mm or about the thickness of a U.S. penny.
Using the penny as a feeler gauge, fit it between the
chainring teeth and the cage plate. It should just barely
fit (figure 9.41).
c. Inspect angle of outer derailleur cage relative to the
chainring. Cage plate should be approximately parallel to
ring at this time.
d. To change cage height in most front derailleurs, release
derailleur cable tension completely by shifting to the
innermost chainring. Any cable tension will pull the
derailleur downward and make height difficult to set. Derailleur cage is rotated too far clockwise. Notice rear end
of cage is inward, toward bike mid plane.
e. Front derailleur clamps typically leave a mark on the
frame, which is useful as a reference when changing FIGURE 9.44
height. Loosen the derailleur mounting bolt and
change derailleur height. Use care to keep cage
parallel to chainring. Tighten mounting bolt. Move
the outer cage plate over outer chainring and check
height again.
f. Repeat process until cage plate height is 1−2 mm above
outer chainring. For triple chainring bikes, inspect that
the inner derailleur cage plate is not striking the middle
ring. It may be necessary to raise the derailleur above
the 1−2 mm height recommendation.
If the derailleur cannot be set to an acceptable height, it
may be incompatible with the front chainring sizing.
Additionally, the frame may not permit an ideal setting, or Derailleur cage is rotated too far counter-clockwise. Notice rear end
of cage is outward relative to the chain and bike mid plane.
there may be a chain guard that prevents a lower setting
(figure 9.42). Clamp mounted and braze-on mounted derailleurs permit a
FIGURE 9.42 rotational adjustment. However, the E-plate or direct mounted
derailleurs do not permit a rotational adjustment.
The derailleur should be moved to the largest chainring
when inspecting rotation. The cable may be attached to
allow the cage to be pulled over for inspection. However, to
adjust the rotation it is necessary to loosen the clamp bolt. A
cable pulling on the cage may change the height. To prevent
this, release cable tension and move the cage inward before
making adjustments.
Procedure for front derailleur rotation adjustment:
a. Shift chain to outermost chainring and outermost
rear sprocket.
b. Sight chain and cage from directly above chainrings.
This chain guard prevents a lower cage height Consider the chain as representing a straight line.
FIGURE 9.45 by pulling the cage over the large ring and sighting two
alignment marks at the front and back of the cage directly
over the largest ring (figure 9.46).
LIMIT SCREW ADJUSTMENT

Limit screws stop the inward and outward travel of the
front derailleur cage by striking the moving linkage system.
Limit screws are marked “L” and (figure 9.47). The L-limit
screw will stop the inward motion of the derailleur toward the
smallest chainring or “low” front gear, and the H-limit screw
will stop the outward motion of the derailleur toward the
largest chainring or “high” front gear. The L-limit screw also
keeps the chain from falling off the smallest ring on to the
Acceptable derailleur cage rotation bottom bracket. Similarly, the H-limit screw keeps the chain
Compare this line to the outer derailleur cage plate. Outer from falling off the outside of the largest sprocket. Set the
cage plate and chain should be parallel (figure 9.45). limit screws before setting index shifting with cable tension.
c. If the derailleur cage must be rotated, note direction of The screws use a nylock fitting to prevent them from moving
desired rotation. after adjustment. If the screws seem to move too easily,
d. For most derailleurs, release derailleur cable tension by remove the screw and apply a mild thread locker. Do not
shifting to the innermost chainring. lubricate these screws.
e. Many clamps leave a slight marking on the frame. Use a FIGURE 9.47
pencil to make two reference marks on the frame, one for
height and a second, vertical mark to reference rotation.
Use the marks to avoid inadvertently changing height.
f. Loosen mounting bolt and slightly rotate in correct
direction. Use care not to change height. Tighten
clamp bolt.
g. Shift to outer chainring and observe rotation alignment.
h. Repeat adjustment if necessary.
The procedure above usually creates the best front
derailleur alignment. However, there are situations where
you must deviate slightly from parallel. For example, after
properly setting the limit screws, a derailleur may seem
slow when shifting inward. It may benefit from having the Location of limit screws
cage rotated slightly clockwise. This moves the back end of
the cage closer to the chain if viewed from above and this L-limit Screw
position can help push the chain inward to the next sprocket. The limit screws stop the derailleur at the extremes of its
Recheck both limit screw settings any time height or rotation motion caused by the pull of the derailleur cable and the
is changed. derailleur return spring. When adjusting the front derailleur
The SRAM® Red with “Yaw front” system does not align L-limit screw, it is important the derailleur rest on the L-screw
parallel to the chainrings when the cage is inward over the stop when the cable is at low tension. If the derailleur cable
small ring. As the cage moves outward it rotates or “yaws” has too much tension, it may prevent the derailleur resting
to become parallel. Check proper rotation of this model on the L-screw stop. If you limit the derailleur with cable
FIGURE 9.46 tension only, then when the derailleur cable tension changes,
for example from the cable system setting and stretching, the
derailleur inner limit will also change and possibly cause the
chain to fall off the chainrings.
Procedure for L-limit screw adjustment:
a. Shift chain to innermost rear sprocket and innermost front
chainring. Inspect derailleur for mark indicating “L” screw.
b. Check derailleur cable tension. It should be fairly loose at
this time. If derailleur cable is taut, turn barrel adjuster
clockwise into lever to provide slack. If barrel adjuster
is already fully turned into the housing, loosen the
derailleur cable pinch bolt, slacken the derailleur cable
and retighten the bolt.
SRAM® Red front derailleur alignment marks c. Sight the gap between the chain and inner cage plate. Only
set in line with largest chainring a small gap should be visible, 0.5−1 mm (figure 9.48).
120
FIGURE 9.48 derailleur is pressing against the H-limit screw.

Procedure for H-limit screw adjustment:
a. Shift to outermost sprocket in rear and outermost
front chainring. Inspect derailleur for mark indicating
H-limit screw.
b. Pull derailleur cable with a hand on the cable itself to
increase tension to ensure derailleur is against H-limit
screw (figure 9.49). Alternatively, maintain pressure on
shift lever.
FIGURE 9.49
Sight gap between chain and inner derailleur cage plate

d. Rotate the cranks slowly and continue to sight gap. Set
clearance at narrowest or tightest point in the chainring
rotation. Rotate the cranks and check that chain is not
rubbing cage while chainrings and chain turn.
4. If there is no gap and chain is rubbing cage, loosen
L-limit screw ⅛ turn (counter-clockwise). Inspect for
gap again and repeat until slight gap appears.
2. If the gap appears larger than 1 mm tighten the
L-limit screw ⅛ turn until the gap closes to 1 mm. Pull derailleur cable tight to force derailleur cage to limit screw
e. Test the shift by shifting chain to next chainring and FIGURE 9.50
then shift back to the innermost chainring. If chain
shifts quickly to the smallest ring, limit screw setting is
adequate. The outward shift away from the smallest ring
is not determined by the L-screw. A poor outward shift
will be adjusted during the index or cable tension setting.
f. If the shift to the smallest ring from the next ring is
slow (requires more than one crankset revolution to
initiate shift), turn L-limit screw counter-clockwise ⅛
turn and repeat test. Repeat ⅛ turn increments until
shifting is adequate. The gap will open wider than the
1 mm target but will still be as small as possible with
adequate shifting.
g. If chain is shifting beyond the inner chainring and View gap at closest point between chain and derailleur cage
falls off the chainring, the gap may be too large or cage c. Check gap between chain and outer cage plate. Only a
alignment may be off. Tighten L-limit screw ⅛ turn and small gap should be visible, approximately 0.5 mm to
check shift again. If chain ends up rubbing inner cage 1 mm. Rotate the cranks slowly and continue to sight
of derailleur yet still drops off inner chainring when gap. Set clearance at tightest point in chainring rotation
shifting, other problems such as chainline or derailleur (figure 9.50).
rotation exist. d. Checking with pressure on cable, inspect if chain is
rubbing outer cage. Loosen H-limit screw ⅛ turn. Add
H-limit screw tension to cable and recheck cage to chain gap.
The H-limit screw stops the outward travel of the front e. If chain is not rubbing, tighten H-limit screw repeatedly
derailleur. The H-limit screw should be set to allow a quick until chain does rub cage then loosen H-limit screw ⅛
shift to the largest chainring. However, the chain should not turn and check again.
be allowed to go beyond the largest ring. f. Test shift to the large chainring. Shift derailleur from
When viewing the H-limit screw adjustment, make sure small or middle chainring to largest chainring using
there is enough tension on the derailleur cable by either hand pressure on derailleur cable rather than shift lever.
keeping extra pressure on the lever or by pulling the exposed If shifting is slow, loosen H-limit screw ⅛ turn and
derailleur cable taut by hand. It is easy to become confused repeat test. If chain shifts over the outside of the large
between cable pull and H-limit settings. Use a rag to protect chainring and onto the crank, the outer-limit is set too
your hand if pulling on the derailleur cable. It is not possible loose. Tighten H-limit screw and test shift again.
to directly pull the shift wire on bikes with full front cable g. If chain ends up rubbing outer cage of derailleur yet still
housing or with shift wires using a full external liner. In drops off outer chainring when shifting, other problems
these cases, maintain pressure on the shift lever to ensure the such as chainline or derailleur rotation exist.
FRONT INDEX ADJUSTMENT: c. If outer cage plate clears the chain, index setting is adequate.
THREE-CHAINRING BIKES d. If plate is rubbing chain, increase derailleur cable
A front derailleur shift lever may have an index setting. tension by turning adjusting barrel counter-clockwise
If the shift lever has three distinctive stops or clicks, it is and check again.
indexing. If the front shift lever is a friction type without e. If barrel adjuster is all the way in or out and no
any clicks, there is no index setting. If the front shift lever adjustment is possible, reset derailleur cable tension.
has multiple clicks, such as some twist grip style shifters, it Shift to innermost chainring and loosen derailleur cable
is shifted similar to friction levers. The user simply selects pinch bolt. Turn the barrel adjuster all the way clockwise
the shifter position so there is no chain rub at the front and then back out two to three turns. Pull the derailleur
derailleur. Set front indexing only after completing limit cable with a fourth hand tool and tighten pinch bolt.
screw settings. Repeat index adjustment procedure.
Turning the barrel adjusters at the shift lever, frame, or f. Test shift front derailleur between front chainrings.
derailleur performs the index setting. Turning the barrel
adjuster counter-clockwise (unthreading) effectively FRONT DERAILLEUR PERFORMANCE
lengthens the housing, and this pulls on the derailleur. This is There are limits to the performance of a front derailleur.
said to “tighten” the index setting. Turning the barrel adjust There may be certain gear combinations that simply do not
clockwise (threading it into the shifter/frame/derailleur) work well or cause problems. For example, when the bike is
effectively shortens the housing and is said to “loosen” the used with the smallest front chainring and the smallest rear
setting. This permits the derailleur cage to move toward the sprocket, the chain may rub against an adjacent chainring
position where there is no cable tension. or the front derailleur. This is called “cross-chaining.”
Procedure for index shifting adjustment: As a simple rule, if a gear combination causes a rubbing
a. Shift chain to middle chainring in the front and problem, avoid that gear. If there is no rubbing, the gear is
innermost rear sprocket. considered usable.
b. View gap between inner cage plate and chain. Gap Another chain rub problem can occur when pedaling in the
should be as small as possible without rubbing chain. To largest front chainring and the smallest rear sprocket. Very
reduce gap, turn the barrel adjuster outward (counter- hard pedaling will flex the frame slightly with each stroke,
clockwise). Check gap again and repeat as necessary. which may cause a chain to rub on the front derailleur cage,
c. If chain is rubbing cage at the inner plate, turn barrel even for properly adjusted derailleurs. Loosening the H-limit
adjuster clockwise to move cage inward. screw and then tightening the index setting cable tension will
d. If barrel adjuster is all the way in or out and no move the front cage out more. This may stop the rubbing, but
adjustment is possible, reset derailleur cable tension. it may also cause the chain to shift over the largest chainring
Shift to innermost chainring and loosen derailleur cable and come off. If all aspects of front derailleur adjustments
pinch bolt. Turn the barrel adjuster all the way clockwise are correct on this bike, the rider is simply exceeding the
and then back out two to three turns. Pull derailleur engineering and design limits of the machine.
cable with a fourth hand tool and tighten pinch bolt.
Repeat index adjustment procedure. SHIMANO® FRONT DERAILLEUR FD-9000
e. Test by shifting front derailleur to all three front chainrings. The Shimano® FD-9000 front derailleur has unique features
that require special considerations during installation and
FRONT INDEX ADJUSTMENT: adjustment. The system works best with a complete Shimano®
TWO-CHAINRING BIKES drivetrain with chain, crankset, derailleurs, and shifters. The
If the shift lever has distinctive stops or clicks for each front derailleur cable-fixing bolt (pinch bolt) uses a notched-
chainring, it is indexing. If the front shift lever is friction washer with a protruding tab that changes the leverage
without any clicks, there is no index setting. For friction of cable pull on the derailleur arm and subtly changes the
systems, the cyclist moves the shift lever as needed to shift position of the derailleur cage. The notched-washer has two
between sprockets. The cyclist then adjusts the cage side to possible positions depending upon the shift cable angle as it
side by moving the lever to avoid any chain rubbing against approaches the cable-fixing bolt.
the front derailleur cage. The derailleur also features a replaceable “skid plate” on
Set the indexing feature only after checking and setting the the inner face of the derailleur cage (figure 9.51). This is
limit screws. If the limit screws were initially set to allow no used to help prevent any accidental dropping of the chain
chain rub, the index feature should also produce no chain rub. off the smallest chainring during the shift from the largest
Some shifters permit trim of the front cage. This is a half- to smallest rings. It will also reduce noise from cage scraping
click that moves the cage slightly over and is used when the against chain during shifts.
chain is moved left or right from different gear selections at Like other derailleurs, the outer cage should be set for
the rear cogs. 1−3 mm above the largest chainring. Set the cage parallel
Procedure for index shifting adjustment: to the largest chainring. The L-limit screw is then used for
a. Shift chain to outer chainring in the front and outermost a temporary lateral setting so to determine the best cable
rear sprocket. routing option and the correct position for the notched-
b. View gap between outer cage plate and chain. washer at the cable-fixing bolt.
122
Skid plate on the inner cage of the Shimano® FD-9000 Determine the notched-washer location using the Shimano® TL-FD90
The outer edge of the cage should be adjusted flush FIGURE 9.54
with the outer edge of the large chainring’s teeth. Use a
straightedge such as a 4 or 5 mm hex wrench or a ruler. Place
the straightedge along the outside of the largest chainring’s
teeth. Hold the straightedge against the machined lip at the
base of the chainring teeth. Adjust the L-limit screw so the
outer cage is flush with the straightedge. The cage should just
contact the straightedge as the chainring is rotated next to
the derailleur cage (figure 9.52). This setting is used to select
the cable routing option at the cable-fixing bolt and notched
cable-fixing washer.
FIGURE 9.52
Orient the notched-wash accordingly and route cable under washer
and tab according to the position indicated by the guide tool
(figure 9.54).
If the cable falls along the dividing line, select the right
cable routing orientation and test the shifting. If the
derailleur will adjust correctly, the routing was acceptable. If
the derailleur will not adjust properly, move the cable to the
left cable routing position.
When the Shimano® guide tool TL-FD90 is not available,
simply make your best guess and attach the cable. Inspect
how the front derailleur cable guide is positioned on the
Position the outer cage flush with the straightedge using the L-limit screw bottom bracket. If the end of the guide is either centered
To determine the cable routing, use the plastic guide, the along the bottom bracket shell or is more toward the right
Shimano® TL-FD9O cable routing tool, when available. To use side of the bike, arrange the notched cable-fixing washer
this tool, remove the cable-fixing bolt and notched washer. oriented to the right side. If the cable guide sits so the front
Place the TL-FD90 into the cable mount. The tool will fit into cable exit is obviously on the left side of the bike, assume it
the bolt hole in only one orientation. Pull the cable snug as will use the left-rotated orientation on the notched cable-
you lay it into the slot in the TL-FD90. Compare the cable to fixing washer. The two positions for cable mounting at the
the line drawn on the tool (figure 9.53). derailleur arm change the mechanical advantage of the cable
Bikes designed for cables passing on the left side of the pull during the shift. This Shimano® design allows adjustment
guide will use the notched washer rotated toward the left of the leverage in the derailleur’s parallelogram, so the
(Shimano’s term is the “OFF” position). If the design of the derailleur shifts more consistently in different frame designs.
bike is such that the cable passes on the right side of the
guide, the notched washer should be rotated to the right Shimano® FD-9000 Front Derailleur Adjustment
(Shimano’s term is the “ON” position), as shown in figure 9.53. The front shift lever can be set to allow for four different
Remove the TL-FD90 and install the fixing bolt and notched index positions. There is an inner and outer setting for the
cable-fixing washer. Orient the notched cable-fixing washer small chainring and an inner and outer setting for the largest
chainring. These settings serve two purposes. The primary FIGURE 9.56
purpose is to allow consistent and reliable chain shifting
from the large ring to the small ring. The shift to the small
ring does not move the cage to the L-limit. The cage moves
to the small ring, but the chain will be rubbing against the
skid plate. This is designed to prevent any chance of a missed
shift with the chain falling to the inside, off the smallest
ring. The cage can then be moved to the inner most position
by again using the shift lever to prevent chain rubbing on
the cage.
Procedure for FD-9000 front derailleur adjustment:
a. Shift the front to the innermost position by pressing the
smaller shift lever three or more times. Shift the rear
derailleur to innermost rear sprocket. Use the L-limit The outer adjustment of the smallest ring
screw to bring the inner cage as close as possible to the set for chain rub against skid plate.
chain, with the slightest visual gap (0−0.5 mm) between If a setting cannot be found on the barrel adjust that will
the skid plate and the chain. both prevent the cage rubbing in the large-to-large sprocket
b. Set the H-limit by shifting the rear derailleur to the position and also allow the skid plate to support and rub the
outer most rear cog. Shift the front derailleur to the chain while in the outer position of the smallest chainring in
largest ring. Either maintain pressure on the lever, or the inner five rear sprockets, it may be necessary to remove
pull the exposed cable to ensure the derailleur is pressed and rotate the cable fixing bolt and notched-washer to the
to the H-limit screw. Adjust the H-limit screw so there opposite position.
is a slight visual gap (0−0.5 mm) between the chain and
the outer derailleur cage plate. REAR DERAILLEUR
c. Shift the rear derailleur to the largest rear sprocket. This Rear derailleurs push or “derail” the chain from one rear
position is referred to as “cross chaining” (figure 9.55). sprocket and move it to another. The upper derailleur pulley,
Using the smaller shift lever, shift the derailleur cage also referred to as the “G-pulley” or guide pulley, moves the
inward to the inner position of the largest chainring. chain from sprocket to sprocket. The G-pulley should then sit
FIGURE 9.55 aligned under the cog as selected by the shift lever.
The derailleur body is fitted with a spring that is pulled
tightly or released by the derailleur cable. Pulling the cable at
the shift lever shortens the cable, moves the derailleur cage
and guide pulley, and tightens the spring. When the shift
lever feeds out cable (relaxing cable tension), it allows the
spring to move the body and pulley in the opposite direction.
Useful terms for parts of the rear derailleur are illustrated in
figure 9.57.
FIGURE 9.57
Large-to-large chain combination

d. Inspect the chain for rubbing against the inside
derailleur cage. If there is rubbing, turn the barrel
adjuster into the stop (clockwise) to loosen cable
tension. Inspect and adjust as needed to avoid chain
contact with the derailleur cage.
e. Shift the chain to the inner ring using the smaller
shift lever. Pushing only once moves the cage to the
outer position of the small chainring. The chain should
be rubbing the derailleur skid plate in this position Derailleur and component parts: (A) Mounting bolt, (B) Body or B-Screw,
(C) Limit screws, (D) Adjusting barrel, (E) Derailleur cable pinch bolt,
(figure 9.56). (F) Upper pulley, (G) Pulley cage, (H) Lower pulley
f. Shift the rear derailleur outward one sprocket at a time.
The chain should still be striking the skid plate at least
until the seventh-position cog. DERAILLEUR CAPACITY AND
g. Moving the front derailleur to the inner position on the
MAXIMUM SPROCKET SIZE
smallest chainring should eliminate any rubbing from the The rear derailleur is usually selected to be compatible with
innermost sprocket. sprocket sizing and spacing used on the bicycle. Derailleurs
124
are made with specifications for the “maximum sprocket size” FIGURE 9.58
and the “total capacity.” The maximum sprocket size is the
largest rear sprocket the derailleur will accept. For example, a
bike with a 32-tooth rear sprocket should use a rear derailleur
with a maximum sprocket size of at least 32.
The total derailleur capacity refers to the derailleur’s
ability to take up chain slack as the derailleur shifts between
different gear combinations. The capacity requirements of the
bicycle are determined by the front and rear sprocket sizes.
To calculate this capacity, the difference between the smallest
and largest chainring sizes is added to the difference between
the smallest and largest sprockets of the rear sprockets. For
example, if a bike has a front crankset with 22-32-46 tooth
chainrings, the spread between the front extremes is 24 teeth. Frame hanger tab and derailleur stop screw
If the rear sprocket sizing is 13-14-15-17-19-21-23-26-30
teeth, the spread is 17 teeth. The total capacity requirements DERAILLEUR CABLE ATTACHMENT
are then 17 plus 24, or a total of 41. A derailleur rated for a The derailleur cable attaches to the rear derailleur at the
total capacity of 41 or greater would take up the slack for any pinch bolt mechanism. The derailleur cable is flattened by a
gear combination. However, this does not mean that every plate and bolt (figure 9.59). Unthread the bolt and look for a
gear combination will work well, only that the derailleur will groove in either the plate or derailleur arm. The derailleur cable
take up the chain slack. will lie in this depression or notch. Inspect the groove and keep
Derailleurs are available that do not take up chain slack in the derailleur cable in line with it. There may also be a tab
every gear combination. In the example above, if the bicycle system. The tab is used to prevent the washer from rotating.
is fitted with a derailleur with a rated capacity of 33, the The derailleur cable is not usually routed around the tab.
derailleur will not be able to take up the slack in all gear While the bolt is loose, take the opportunity to lubricate
combinations. The chain will hang slack when it is on the the threads. Pull the derailleur cable snug and secure the bolt.
inner front chainring and in the 13, 14, 15, 17, or 19 rear The derailleur cable will be flattened where it is pinched.
sprockets. If the chain were shortened to accommodate these FIGURE 9.59
gear combinations, it would be too short when the bike is
in the 46-tooth front chainring and the several of the larger
sprockets in the back. When sizing a chain with a derailleur
violating the total capacity needs of the bike, it is best to
use the sizing method in Chapter 8, Chains. This will allow
shifting to largest rear and front sprockets, but the chain
will hang slack in some small front chainring and small rear
sprocket combinations. It will be necessary to avoid those gear
combinations that cause problems in pedaling or shifting or
to replace the derailleur with a model of greater total capacity.
Check with derailleur manufacturer for specifications on
maximum sprocket size and total capacity. As a general rule,
total capacity increases as the derailleur cage gets longer, Derailleur cable routing through pinch mechanism
and the distance between pulley wheels increases. Short cage
derailleurs, those with approximately 50 mm between pulley LIMIT SCREW ADJUSTMENT
wheels, will have a capacity of about 29 teeth. Medium cage Derailleur pulleys are limited in both inward and outward
derailleurs (approximately 73 mm) will have a capacity of motions by using the derailleur limit screws. Limit screws
approximately 33 teeth. Long cage derailleurs (approximately will strike and stop the derailleur linkage as it articulates
85 mm) will have a capacity of approximately 45 teeth. through its motions. The limit screws are usually marked “H”
and “L”. The H-limit screw controls the outermost limit of
DERAILLEUR INSTALLATION the derailleur, and the L-limit screw controls the innermost
The rear derailleur attaches to the frame at a fitting called limit. The location of limit screws on the derailleur body may
the derailleur hanger. The hanger has a tab that acts as a vary between manufacturers. Always look for the “H” and
stop for derailleur rotation (figure 9.58). Grease the bolt “L” marked adjacent to the screws. For some models you may
before installing. When installing the derailleur, use care that need to inspect the linkage and determine which screw is the
any stop screw or plate on the derailleur clears the hanger H-screw or L-screw (figure 9.60).
tab. Hold the derailleur clockwise from its “normal” position Properly set, the derailleur will shift to and stop on both
while engaging the thread. The torque for the mounting bolt the extreme outward sprocket (the smallest in size) and the
is modest (Appendix C). Test that the derailleur is freely extreme innermost sprocket (the largest in size). However,
pivoting on the hanger. the limit screws do not control the derailleur on the sprockets
FIGURE 9.60 outermost sprocket. Also notice how the chain rides on the
outermost sprocket. Do not be concerned, however, with how
the chain rides when it is held on the second sprocket. That is
a function of derailleur cable pull, not limit screw settings. Do
not become confused between issues of derailleur cable pull
and limit screw setting. Cable pull (tension) controls indexing,
but limit screws control the two extreme cogs. Again, when
possible, simply pull the derailleur cable by hand rather than
using the shift lever.
Procedure for H-limit screw adjustment:
a. Shift chain to outermost (largest) chainring. Shift chain
to outermost rear sprocket (smallest sprocket).
b. Check tension on rear derailleur cable. If derailleur cable
H-limit screw contacting derailleur linkage to stop outward travel appears to have any tension, it may interfere with the
between the two extremes. The sprockets between the H-limit screw setting. Turn adjusting-barrel clockwise to
extremes are set to the clicks (dwell) in the shift lever by eliminate derailleur cable tension.
using the barrel adjuster during indexing adjustments. c. Rotate the cranks at a quick cadence, approximately 60
Using the barrel adjuster on the shift lever to adjust derailleur rpm or more. Shift the derailleur one sprocket inward
high and low limits can cause confusion and problems because it and then shift derailleur back to outermost sprocket and
tends to focus attention on the derailleur cable pull (indexing) note shift.
rather than the limit screw settings. Instead of using the shift d. If the shift outward seems acceptable, tighten H-limit
lever, pull the derailleur cable with one hand to simulate shift screw ¼ turn clockwise and repeat shift. Even if the shift
lever action (figure 9.61). This will help eliminate confusion appears acceptable, continue tightening H-limit screw by
between indexing problems and limit screw problems. Before ¼ turn increments and checking shift until the shifting
adjusting the limit screws, practice shifting with this method. If becomes slow or hesitant to the outer sprocket. The
it is not possible to pull the cable by hand, maintain pressure on goal is to find the point at which the limit screw is too
the lever to ensure the derailleur is pressed to the limit screw. tight, and then back it off until it is just right. Another
FIGURE 9.61 symptom of an overly tight H-limit screw is when the
chain is on the smallest sprocket but makes a rattle from
rubbing the second sprocket inward. Look for the cause
of this last symptom by looking under the rear sprockets
where the chain meets the sprockets (figure 9.62).
The inner plate of the chain will rub against the next
sprocket inward, making an excessive rattling noise.
FIGURE 9.62
Pull cable by hand to isolate limit screw performance from index settings
Turning the limit screws adjusts the left-to-right travel limit
of the pulleys. Tightening the screw restricts the travel and
loosening allows more travel. The purpose of the following
procedure is to find the tightest H-limit screw setting that
will allow a good shift to the outermost sprocket and the
tightest L-screw setting that will allow a good shift to the
innermost sprocket. Inspect the H-limit by view behind and outer the rear cogs
It is normal for a chain to make some noise during a shift. e. When symptoms of an overly tight H-limit screw appear,
The shift may appear subjectively “noisy,” “loud,” or “rough.” loosen H-limit screw 1/4 turn and check shift again.
Factors like the type of chain or sprocket, the wear on each, and Repeat process of shifting and correcting by 1/4 turn
the amount and type of lubrication will affect the noise a chain increments. When the symptoms disappear, H-limit
makes during shifting. The limit screws do nothing to affect the screw is at tightest acceptable setting. The H-limit screw
noise during the shift between the two extreme sprockets. setting is done.
H-Limit Screw L-limit Screw

When adjusting the H-limit screw, pay special attention to The L-limit screw stops the derailleur from moving inward
the outward shift from the second smallest sprocket to the (toward the spokes). The limit screw does not make the
126
derailleur move; pulling or releasing the derailleur cable the B-screw to increase upper pivot spring tension, which
makes the derailleur move. The L-screw allows the pulley pulls the pulley back and away from the sprocket. If there is a
wheels to shift the chain to the innermost sprocket but gap between the upper pulley and sprocket, loosen the screw.
not off the sprocket into the spokes. When adjusting the Rotate the cranks backwards to double-check for rubbing.
L-screw, be concerned with the inward shift from the second- The upper pulley will wear out if it rubs against the sprocket.
innermost sprocket to the innermost sprocket. Additionally, Additionally, the derailleur may hang up as it attempts to
notice how the chain rides on the innermost sprocket. shift off the largest cog to the smaller cogs.
Procedure for L-limit screw adjustment: Modern Campagnolo® model derailleurs may have a tension
a. Shift bike to middle chainring of three chainring bikes or adjustment at the pulley cage and not at the upper pivot.
smaller chainring of double chainring bikes. The screw is basically a “rack and pinion” system in the cage
b. With the bike in a stand or suspended, rotate the cranks pivot. The cage spring plate rotates to increase or decrease
at a normal riding cadence, approximately 60 rpm or more. tension of the cage. The tensions of the upper pivot and lower
c. Pull rear derailleur cable by hand to shift derailleur cage pivot springs oppose one another. In this system, the
inward from second to innermost sprocket to the upper spring tension is fixed (figure 9.64). Increasing cage
innermost sprocket. tension (turning screw clockwise) in the cage will bring the
d. If shifting seems adequate, tighten L-limit screw ¼ upper pulley closer to the sprocket. Decreasing cage tension
turn and repeat shift. Continue to tighten L-screw until (turning screw counter-clockwise) will increase the distance
symptoms of an overly tight screw appear. The goal is to between upper pulley and sprocket.
find the point at which the limit screw is too tight, and FIGURE 9.64
then back it off until it is just right. The symptoms are an
unshiftable chain or even a hesitant chain while pulling
on the derailleur cable. Also, listen for a loud chain rattle
when the chain is riding on innermost sprocket.
e. When symptoms of an overly tight L-screw appear, loosen
L-screw ¼ turn and check shift again. Repeat the process
of shifting and correct each time with ¼ turn. When
symptoms disappear, the L-screw is at tightest acceptable
setting and limit screw setting is done.
B-Screw Adjustment
After setting the L-screw, check the “B-screw” for an
adequate setting. The B-screw controls the derailleur body Adjusting the Campagnolo® B-screw at the cage pivot
angle, hence the name. Adjust the distance between pulley FIGURE 9.65
and sprocket when the chain is on the smallest sprocket in
front and on the largest sprocket in back. This places the
upper pulley and largest rear sprocket at their closest point.
For the common Shimano® and SRAM® derailleurs, the
B-screw is located behind the derailleur’s upper mounting bolt
(figure 9.63).
If the indexing is already set, shift to the innermost
sprocket. Otherwise, manually pull the rear derailleur cable
and shift to the innermost (largest) rear sprocket. Hold
tension and View the upper pulley relative to the largest
sprocket. If the pulley is rubbing against the sprocket, tighten
FIGURE 9.63
SRAM® and Shimano® Shadow setting for the upper pulley to largest cog
SRAM® and some models of Shimano® derailleurs do not use
a spring in the upper mounting bolt. A screw behind the upper
mounting bolt adjusts the distance from the upper pulley to
the largest sprocket. Adjust so there is approximately a 6 mm
(¼ inch) gap between the pulley and largest sprocket. Use a
6 mm hex wrench to estimate this gap (figure 9.65). Tighten
B-screw to pull body back and increase the distance between
sprocket and pulley. Loosen the screw to decrease gap size.
INDEX ADJUSTMENT
The indexing procedure here assumes that there are no
Location of B-Screw unusual problems such as bent derailleurs, bent derailleur
hangers, or excess derailleur cable friction from dirt in the on lever. Use care to only move lever one position. If
housing. Additionally, manufacturers design shift levers and derailleur moves one sprocket, proceed to “e” below.
drivetrain components to work within their system. Mixing d. If derailleur fails to shift one sprocket with one
brands of components within the drivetrain may result in less derailleur shift (click), the derailleur cable may be too
than optimal shifting. slack. Return shifter to a position that produces the
Indexing shift levers use dwell, which is a hesitation or least derailleur cable tension. Turn barrel adjuster fully
click in the lever rotation. These hesitations are calculated to into derailleur body (or shift lever) then turn counter-
match the movements of the derailleur and the spacing in the clockwise two turns to allow for index adjustments.
rear sprockets. The design of some derailleur and shift lever Loosen derailleur cable pinch bolt and gently pull on
brands requires a little more push (or twist) of the lever to derailleur cable with fourth hand tool or pliers to remove
complete the shift. The amount of extra push or twist is not slack (figure 9.66). Tighten derailleur cable pinch bolt.
consistent between manufacturers and each rider must learn Attempt shift again. If derailleur will not shift one
the particular attributes of his or her system. In other words, sprocket after removing slack, return lever back to
an index lever may, in some cases, need to be “finessed” to outermost sprocket position and increase derailleur cable
shift properly, and this finesse must be learned by the user. tension by turning barrel adjuster counter-clockwise ¼
Changing the derailleur adjusting barrels, which effectively turn and attempt shift again.
increase or decrease cable length, adjusts the rear indexing. FIGURE 9.66
For conventional derailleurs (other than Shimano® Rapid
Rise™) turning the barrel adjuster counter-clockwise
(outward) moves the rear derailleur guide pulley (G-pulley)
toward the spokes. This is said to “tighten” the index setting.
Turning the barrel adjuster clockwise (inward) allows the
spring in the derailleur to pull the guide pulley outward
(toward the dropout). The derailleur adjusting barrel settings
will not stop the derailleur at its extreme limits. Use the
H-limit and L-limit screws to stop the derailleur at its
outermost and innermost settings, respectively.
Adjusting barrels may be located either at the rear
derailleur, the shift lever, or both. The goal of adjusting the
indexing is to find the “tightest” derailleur cable tension Pull excessive slack from cable at pinch bolt
setting that will allow good shifting to the gears normally FIGURE 9.67
used. This setting will allow the longest lasting indexing
adjustment as the system wears and the cable system
stretches (lengthens) with use. To find the tightest derailleur
cable setting, begin by purposely making the setting too tight
and then relax tension slightly.
There are two basic symptoms of an overly tight derailleur
cable: a rattling noise from the chain rubbing against the next
sprocket inward or a slow or hesitant outward shift. These are
symptoms for conventional rear derailleurs that move outward
when derailleur cable tension is released.
Noise from the chain riding on the sprocket is a useful
symptom for setting indexing tension. There is, for any given
bike, a “base level” of noise from the chain as it passes over
the sprocket teeth. To demonstrate the “base level” noise,
shift the bike to the second sprocket by manually pulling the
derailleur cable. Continue to rotate the cranks and move the
derailleur cable slightly to hear changes in the level of noise. Chain positioned too far inward resulting in a rattle against sprocket
The quietest level of noise may be considered the base or e. Once the derailleur has shifted inward one position of
normal level for that bike. When the derailleur jockey wheel is one click at the shifter, proceed to shift to other rear
out of alignment, the chain may make excessive noise. sprockets. To find the longest lasting index setting,
Procedure for rear index setting adjustment: purposely increase cable tension by turning adjusting
a. Set limit screws, if not already done. barrel counter-clockwise until a definite rattling is
b. While rotating the cranks, shift chain to outermost heard. Rattle is from the chain scraping against the next
(smallest) rear sprocket and outermost (largest) sprocket (figure 9.67).
chainring in front. f. Once a too-tight rattle is achieved, turn barrel adjuster
c. Test initial derailleur cable tension. Rotate the cranks at ¼ turn clockwise to release derailleur cable tension and
a normal cadence and shift rear derailleur with one click rotate cranks again. Listen and look for signs of scraping
128
FIGURE 9.68 h. Shift to all other normal gear combinations and test
adjustment. Make corrections to barrel adjuster in ¼ turn
increments as necessary.
CLUTCH SYSTEM REAR DERAILLEURS

Shimano® and SRAM® have rear derailleurs available with
a clutch system in the pulley cage. In a traditional rear
derailleur, the pulleys are mounted to a cage that pivots on
the derailleur body. A spring in the body applies tension to
the low pulley, pulling it backward. If the bike hits a bump,
the weight of the chain will force the pulley forward, and
the chain will bounce up and down. This often results in the
chain slapping the chainstay and can also result the chain
coming off the chainrings.
A clutch system in the lower pivot provides resistance to
forward movement of the lower pulley to help maintain chain
tension during bumps. The cage is free to pull back on the
Index setting adjusted so chain rides under sprockets pulley from the clutch design. This reduces the chain slap and
or rattling. Continue turning barrel adjuster ¼ turn helps maintain the chain on the chainrings.
clockwise at a time until rattle disappears (figure 9.68). Clutch system derailleurs make removing and installing the
g. Shift derailleur one sprocket inward at a time, listening rear wheel more difficult. The Shimano® Shadow Plus® RD
for signs of rattle, indicating a too tight derailleur cable. design includes a lever at the lower pivot which disengages
Turn adjusting barrel ¼ turn clockwise to eliminate the clutch. The up position on the lever is the “on” or
rattle. Continue shifting inward one sprocket at a time. working position. Pulling the lever down disengages the
Adjust only if rattling is heard and seen. Note: Do not clutch for the “off” position (figure 9.69).
attempt to shift to largest rear sprocket while the chain The clutch type systems are adjusted the same for limit
is in the largest front sprocket. This gear combination screws and indexing. These systems often require more force
is normally not used and adjusting tension to this shift at the shift lever.
may compromise other commonly used gears. FIGURE 9.69
h. Shift to innermost (smallest) chainring and check
shifting again. If no rattling is present, index adjustment
is done.
Shimano® Rapid Rise™ Derailleurs

Shimano Rapid Rise™ derailleurs use a return spring that
puts the derailleur under the innermost rear sprocket when
the derailleur cable tension is released. This is also called
“low-normal.” A loose derailleur cable will cause the chain to
rub against the next sprocket inward from the indexed gear.
Procedure for indexing adjustment on Rapid Rise™
(low-normal) derailleurs:
Push “on-off” lever upward to return derailleur to clutch operation mode
a. Mount the bike in a repair stand.
b. Set limit screws.
c. Shift chain to the innermost rear sprocket and the CHAINLINE
middle chainring of a three-chainring bike (or the Chainline is the relation of the front and rear sprockets to
smaller chainring of a double-chainring bike). the center plane of the bicycle (figure 9.70). The bike center
d. Rotate the cranks and shift to the next-smallest rear plane is an imaginary plane running from front to rear through
cog. If chain will not shift, release lever and increase the middle of the bike. As an example, a front crankset and/
derailleur cable tension. or front derailleur might be designed to have a chainline of
e. When the chain is on the second-largest sprocket, rotate 50 mm. The front derailleur would then work best when the
the cranks and turn barrel adjuster clockwise to relax middle of the chainrings are 50 mm from the bike centerline.
derailleur cable tension until chain rattles against the Chainline can also refer to the relative position of the
next sprocket inward. front and rear sprockets to each other without regard to the
f. Turn barrel adjuster counter-clockwise ¼ turn until bike centerline. This is called “effective chainline.” Effective
chain runs smoothly on second-largest sprocket. chainline is simply the difference between “A” and “B,” but
g. Shift up (outward) one sprocket at a time, trying each gear. distance “A” is not always designed to be equal to “B.” For
Turn barrel adjuster ¼ turn counter-clockwise if symptoms example, with most three-chainring bikes, the middle of nine
of overly loose derailleur cable occur in other gears. rear sprockets will be approximately 45 mm from the bicycle
FIGURE 9.70 bracket spindle widths available to move the chainring inward
or outward. Shorter spindles locate the chainrings inward, and
longer spindles locate the chainrings outward.
On some models, a thin spacer can be placed under the
right side cup of the bottom bracket to move the chainrings
outward. There are limits to this, however, because it results
in less thread engagement for the right side cup. There are
also limits to moving a derailleur inward, toward the bike
mid plane. The chainrings may end up rubbing the frame.
Additionally, the front derailleur may not work well with the
front chainrings too close to the frame.
Two-piece cranks offer little opportunity to change the
chainline. In some cases, the spacers under threaded bearing
Chainline in relationship to the bike mid plane: adapters can be moved from the left to the right side.
(A) Distance from middle of front chainrings to mid plane Chainline manipulation with rear sprockets is also limited.
(B) Distance from middle of rear sprockets to mid plane
The freehub mechanism cannot be moved laterally on the hub
mid plane or distance “B.” The manufacturers specified shell. If the hub uses a threaded axle, spacers may sometimes
chainline of triple cranksets ranges from 47 mm to 50 mm, be moved under the cone locknut to shift the rear sprocket
distance “A.” In this case, the front chainrings are not designed positions. If spacers are moved from the right side to the left
to align directly with the middle of the rear sprockets. side, double-check that the chain will not strike the frame
Drivetrain manufacturers generally do not consider all gear when on the smallest rear cog. It is important not to change
combinations to be usable. For example, a “27-speed” bike the fit of the hub into the frame. Any change of axle spacing
has three chainrings in front and nine sprockets in the rear will also change the centering of the wheel rim over the hub.
for a total of 27 gears. There are likely to be several gear Double-check and correct dish if the spacers were manipulated.
combinations that are exact or very close duplicates. It is also Modern bicycles are designed for forward pedaling. There are
likely that the chain will rub the side of the middle chainring times, such as when preventing the inside pedal from striking
when the chain is on the smallest sprocket in front and a tight corner, when a cyclist may want to pedal backwards
possibly two or three of the smallest sprockets in back. This briefly. When pedaling forward, the chain is guided to the
is simply the limitation of the design. If the front crankset rear sprocket by the upper derailleur pulley, which is very
were moved outward until there was no rubbing in these close to the sprockets. When a cyclist backpedals, the chain
combinations, there would likely be other shifting problems is guided to the rear sprocket by the front chainrings, which
in other gear combinations, such as the largest chainring and are relatively far away. The chain may disengage or become
several of the inner rear sprockets. jammed when it is backpedaled because the front chainrings
Sprocket combinations that should be avoided are termed cannot keep the chain guided straight to the sprocket.
“cross-chaining.” Drivetrain manufacturers vary on exactly Disengagement is likely to be worse in gear combinations
which combinations should not be used. Generally, it is where the chainline is offset the greatest. It may be possible
assumed that the smallest front chainring and smallest rear to minimize backpedaling problems by changing chainline,
sprocket will not be used, nor will the largest rear sprocket in but again, this may result in other problems.
combination with the largest front chainring. As a practical
matter, each bike may be different as to which exact gear DERAILLEUR HANGER
combinations is unusable. ALIGNMENT & REPAIR
As a rule of thumb, if the bicycle shifts well, the chainline The rear derailleur is mounted to the bike at the derailleur
should be considered adequate. However, chainline adjustment hanger. The hanger should be aligned parallel to the rear
may be needed if: sprockets. A bent or misaligned derailleur hanger will result in
• Chain jumps off large chainring when front derailleur is poor shifting performance (figure 9.71). The derailleur hanger
correctly adjusted for height, rotation, and limit screw can become bent when the bike is crashed, bumped with
settings. force, or if something, such as a stick, becomes caught in the
• Chain rides off lower derailleur pulley teeth when derailleur when riding. A misaligned hanger may also just be
derailleur or hanger is not bent. a manufacturer oversight on a new bike.
• Chain rattles on inner faces of front chainrings in what Many hangers can be bent, aligned, re-bent, and realigned
should be usable gears. repeatedly. This is because there is very little stress from
• Chain derails off inner chainring when front derailleur is riding the bike or shifting gears. As a rule of thumb, if a
correctly adjusted for height, rotation, and limit screw hanger survives a repair by bending, it will survive the riding.
settings. To check alignment and repair the derailleur hanger, use a
• Front derailleur cannot be adjusted to stop over-shifts derailleur hanger alignment gauge, such as the Park Tool DAG-
while still allowing good shifting. 2 Derailleur Alignment Gauge. The tool extends the plane of
Moving the front chainrings can make changes to chainline. the hanger and compares it to the rim. If the hanger is aligned
For the three-piece cranks, there may be different bottom to a wheel rim, it will also be aligned to the rear sprockets.
130
Set DAG-2 gauge to reference rim at the nine o’clock position

f. Loosen the sliding gauge knob and move the sliding
gauge to contact the rim, then secure the knob.
g. Push gauge bracket toward hub before rotating arm. This
Bent hanger from impact to rear derailleur prevents gauge from being forced against rim.
Bikes may use a bolt-on or replaceable hanger (figure 9.72). h. Rotate DAG-2 and rim valve 180 degrees to the three
These hanger styles are also repairable and can be aligned. Even o’clock position. Slide indicator toward rim to same point
new hangers should be checked for proper alignment. Derailleur near valve.
hangers can be difficult to fix if the method of securing the i. There are three possible results:
hanger to the frame is inadequate. Replaceable hangers may move 1. The gauge barely touches the rim or has a small gap less
in the frame mount, which changes the alignment of the hanger than 4 mm. In this case, hanger is aligned horizontally.
and derailleur. Before checking alignment on replaceable hangers, 2. The pointer is away from the rim some distance. The
double-check the rigidity of the hanger to frame connection. hanger is misaligned (figure 9.74). If the distance is
FIGURE 9.72 greater than 4 mm, the hanger will need realignment.
Use a 4 mm hex wrench to gauge the gap.
3. The pointer strikes inside the rim, which indicates
a misaligned hanger (figure 9.75). It is easier to
FIGURE 9.74
Replaceable type derailleur hangers should be checked for proper alignment

Procedure for derailleur hanger alignment:
a. Mount the bike in a repair stand. Level the bike in the
stand, as if it were on flat ground.
b. Check that the rear wheel is mounted straight in the frame. Gauge indicating misaligned hanger
c. Remove rear derailleur from hanger. Derailleur may FIGURE 9.75
simply hang from derailleur cable and housing during
hanger alignment.
d. Install DAG-2 into hanger and tighten handle. If the
DAG-2 does not thread easily into the derailleur hanger,
chase and clean the threads using a tap as necessary. Do
not use the DAG-2 threads as a “chaser” of bad derailleur
hanger threads.
e. Rotate the arm toward the left side of the rim at the
nine o’clock position. Rotate the tire valve to the
same position. Use the valve on the rim as a constant
reference point when checking the hanger (figure 9.73).
By checking the same point on the rim, wheel trueness
or dish will not affect alignment. Reset gauge if it falls inside the rim
determine the error by seeing the gap between the rim 10 mm x 1 mm thread without issue. If the derailleur installs
and gauge. Reset tool to rim contact at the nine o’clock with difficulty, the threads of the hanger should be tapped.
position and rotate back to the three o’clock position. As a test of thread acceptability, fully tighten the derailleur.
There will be a gap between the rim and the gauge. If the derailleur bolt does not strip, the hanger is usable.
j. Bend the derailleur hanger a small amount using the If the threads strip and fail, it is possible for a professional
arm of the DAG-2. Then recheck both sides. Reset gauge mechanic to install a coil thread or a T-nut repair system
and remeasure gap. Generally, it is best to bend with (figure 9.78). These repairs work well when properly done and
the DAG-2 arm next to the chainstay (figure 9.76). This allow the bike to be used normally.
allows you to use the stay for leverage and to control the FIGURE 9.78
amount of bending either inward or out.
FIGURE 9.76
T-nut thread repair of a stripped hanger
Use frame to leverage and control bending of hanger DERAILLEUR WEAR & SERVICE
k. Repeat bending and checking until the gap is less than Both front and rear derailleurs will eventually wear out with
4 mm. A 4 mm gap at the rim means the hanger is use. Play and excess movement develop at the pivots. Grab
off less than a millimeter at the sprockets, where the the lower cage of a rear derailleur and pull left to right to test
derailleur actually shifts. Use a 4 mm hex wrench as a play. It may help to compare the play in the old derailleur to
“go/no-go” gauge. new models. Replace the derailleur when the cage at the lower
l. When the horizontal positions are aligned, move on to pulley has more then a ⅛ inch (3 mm) movement.
check the six o’clock and twelve o’clock position. Set The chain travels over the pulleys and pulley teeth, which
gauge to the six o’clock position, and then check at the causes wear. Worn pulley wheels will not engage well with the
twelve o’clock position. chain (figure 9.79). The pulley wheels can usually be replaced.
m.Rotate DAG-2 and rim valve 180 degrees. If gap exceeds FIGURE 9.79
the 4 mm tolerance, bend accordingly in small increments,
rechecking and resetting the gauge (figure 9.77). When
the gap is less than 4 mm, keep the same setting and
check at the nine o’clock position. When three points that
are 90 degrees apart are within 4 mm, hanger is aligned.
FIGURE 9.77
Unworn pulley wheel on left and extremely worn pulley on right

The rear derailleur can be brushed off and lightly scrubbed
with soap or solvent. Use care not to get solvent in the
upper and lower pivots. A solvent in the cage pivots will ruin
the grease inside. It is also possible to disassemble, clean,
and reassemble some rear derailleurs. Overhaul of the rear
Use a 4mm hex wrench as a go/no-go gauge when checking tolerance derailleur is not discussed in this book.
n. Remove the tool and reinstall the derailleur. The front derailleur can be flushed with degreaser, dried,
o. Check settings on both limit screws and check index settings. and re-lubricated at the spring and all pivot points with
The threads of the derailleur hanger are commonly a light lubricant. The pivots of the cage will eventually
10 mm x 1 mm. Campagnolo uses threads that are develop play and slop with enough use. Grab the back end
10 mm x 26 tpi, which can effectively interchange with the of the derailleur and pull from side to side. Compare the old
132
TABLE 9.1 Troubleshooting Table

SHIFTING OR RIDING SYMPTOM POTENTIAL PROBLEM POTENTIAL SOLUTION
Chain skips in all gear combinations Poor indexing adjustment Readjust indexing
Shifting is slow or hesitant for

Friction in the cable system Lubricate and/or replace cable and housing
either inward or outward shifts
Poor indexing adjustment with cable tension too Increase cable tension
Shifting is slow or hesitant on inward shifts
loose (Rapid RIse™ likely too tight) (Rapid Rise™ decrease cable tension)
Poor indexing adjustment with cable tension too Decrease cable tension
Shifting is slow or hesitant on outward shifts
tight (Rapid RIse™ likely too loose) (Rapid Rise™ increase cable tension)
Chain skips under pressure in only

Sprockets and chain may be worn out Inspect and replace sprockets and chain
1, 2, or 3 rear sprockets
Front H-limit screw too loose, Inspect and correct cage rotation as necessary
Chain shifts off of largest front chainring
or rotation of cage is off Check H-limit screw setting
Front L-limit screw too loose, Inspect and correct cage rotation as necessary
Chain shifts off of smallest front chainring
or rotation of cage is off Check L-limit screw setting
Chain shifts slowly or not at all Front derailleur cable tension too loose, H-limit Check front index setting
to largest front chainring screw too tight, and/or rotation cage is off Check derailleur rotation and H-limit screw setting
Chain shifts slowly or not at all Front derailleur cable tension too tight, and/or Check front index setting
to smallest front chainring L-limit screw too tight, and/or rotation cage is off Check derailleur rotation and L-limit screw setting
Chain shifts well to largest front chainring

Front derailleur cable tension too loose Increase front derailleur cable tension
but outer cage rubs after shift is completed
Chain skips under load at front chainrings Front chainring worn Replace chainrings
derailleur to the movement on a new derailleur. The cage may added at additional locations such at the end of aero bars or
also be gouged or damaged from dragging on a chain. Front along the handlebars.
derailleurs typically have no replaceable parts and, when the
derailleur wears out, should be replaced as a unit. Shifters
The left and right integrated shift/brake levers contain two
TROUBLESHOOTING DERAILLEUR SYSTEMS electronic switches each (figure 9.80). The switches are similar
Poor or inconsistent shifting can be the result of several in location and function to the STI® mechanical shifters. The
problems or combinations of problems. It is often necessary Shimano® mechanical integrated system will shift the chain
to check each part of the shifting system to find the problem to larger sized sprockets when the brake lever blade is pushed
and solve it (Table 9.1). inward. A small lever behind the blade will shift the chain to
smaller sized sprockets. The Di2® system copies the concept,
ELECTRONIC SHIFT DERAILLEURS but the brake lever blade does not pivot inward. The “X”
Electronic derailleurs use an on-board battery to power FIGURE 9.80
servomotors housed in the front or rear derailleur linkage.
The motors move the derailleurs and push the chain to
the appropriate sprockets. Each shift lever has switches to
move the derailleurs inward and outward. Wires connect the
electronic switches to a shift-interface unit, and this unit
sends signals and power to the derailleur. Microprocessors
in the system position the derailleurs correctly over the
sprockets. These systems must be used with compatible rear
and front sprockets, as well as a compatible chain.
SHIMANO® DI2® INTELLIGENT SYSTEM

The Shimano® Di2® electronic shifting system is available
in the Dura-Ace® and Ultegra® product lines. Shifting and
adjustment are the same in both models. The systems use
switches housed in the brake levers, two junction boxes to
route the electronic wiring, and a front and rear derailleur
containing the shifting motors. Extra shifting switches can be “X” and “Y” switches located at brake lever
switch on the side of the blade is used for shifting to larger FIGURE 9.83
sized sprockets. The “Y” switch is located behind the brake
lever blade and permits shifting the chain to smaller cogs.
The shift levers contain microprocessors that control the
derailleurs. Electronic shift wires plug into sockets at each
lever and run to the “front junction box” (figure 9.81). This
junction box is typically located near the stem and is used for
fine-tuning the shifting of both derailleurs and for checking
the battery charge. A single wire runs from the front junction
box to the rear junction box.
FIGURE 9.81
Rear junction box for internal wiring hidden in the frame
FIGURE 9.84
Front junction box secured to housing. Under the stem is another option.
FIGURE 9.82
Use the Shimano® special wire tool for plugging and

unplugging wire in shift levers
Di2® Battery
A lithium ion battery powers the motors in the
derailleurs. Bike manufacturers may locate the battery
externally, such as on the down tube, below the bottom
bracket; or it may be located internally, such as inside the
frame or the seat post, as noted above. Shimano® offers
a charger that will plug into the front junction box. An
internal battery need not be removed for charging with this
system option.
Externally mounted batteries are removed for charging. For
bracket-mounted batteries, pull outward on a quick release
Externally mounted rear junction box below the bottom bracket shell lever and push the release button. Pull battery to remove.
The rear junction may be located underneath the bottom To install, push the battery fully into holder. Close the quick
bracket for externally wired bikes (figure 9.82). Some frames release lever to secure the battery (figure 9.85)
can also be fitted for internal wiring, with the rear junction FIGURE 9.85
box located inside the frame near the bottom bracket (figure
9.83). Electronic shift wires connect the front and rear
derailleur to the rear junction box.
The electronic shift wires are small and should be handled
with care. When installing or removing the wires from their
plugs, it is recommended you use the Shimano® TL-EWO2™
tool. This tool has a pronged fork end for plug removal and a
socket end for plug installation (figure 9.84).
Inspect the shift wire routing. Secure any loose wire that
may snag on projecting objects with small zip ties or tape.
Handlebars must be free to rotate fully to the left and right
without binding the wires. However, excessive wire slack may
lead to the wire being caught, pulled, and damaged. Removing the Di2 battery from the battery bracket
134
How long a battery charge lasts will vary according to FIGURE 9.87
riding conditions, the number of shifts, and the age of the
battery. However, anticipate approximately 1,000 miles
between charges for a battery in good condition. Extreme cold
may shorten the charge life of the battery. Allow at least 90
minutes of charging time for a full charge.
The battery charge level may be checked at the shift
lever switches. For either front or rear shift levers, begin
first by shifting to the smallest sprocket. Press and hold
the Y-switch for approximately two seconds until the front
junction indicator light comes on (figure 9.86). A full or
nearly full battery charge will show a green indicator light
for 2 seconds. A 75−50% battery charge will flash green
five times. A 49−25% battery charge will illuminate red for
2 seconds. A battery with 24−1% charge will flash red five
times. If there is no charge in the battery, the indicator light
will not illuminate, and the derailleurs will simply stay in
the current gear. Front derailleur and adjustment screws
Press Y-switch and watch for lights at the junction box Setting angle of the cage in the braze-on type derailleur
If you will not be riding the bike for a long period of time, Procedure for front derailleur adjustment:
such as 2 months or more, remove the battery from the bike a. Set L-limit screw. Shift to the smallest front ring and the
and occasionally recharge the battery fully. largest rear cog. This will automatically trim the front
Like all lithium batteries, never dispose of the Shimano® cage inward.
battery by throwing it in a landfill. Ask your retailer for b. Turn the L-limit screw clockwise to move the cage outward
disposal and recycling information. Batteries eventually wear until the inner cage of the derailleur begins to contact the
out with time and use. If the battery will not accept a charge chain, and then loosen until there is a slight gap between
it should be replaced. the chain and inner cage of no more than 0.5 mm.
FIGURE 9.89
Front Derailleur
The front derailleur is available in a clamp-on style or a
braze-on style. The braze-on model uses a rotation angle
screw, or “support bolt,” which braces the front derailleur
against the frame and sets the angle of the cage relative to
the chainrings.
There are three adjustment screws in the braze-on models.
Height is set with the mounting screw. Rotation is set with
the rotation angle screw. There are separate screws to set the
H-limit and L-limits (figure 9.87).
The front derailleur cage can be safely pulled manually to
the outside to assist setting its height over largest ring. Set
the clearance to approximately 2 mm over largest chainring
teeth. For the braze-on derailleurs, set the cage rotation using
the angle rotation screw. The screw pushes against the frame
and flexes the cage to the right, as seen from the rear of the
bike. (Figure 9.88) Sight gap from chain to cage while setting H-limit screw
c. Set H-limit screw. Shift rear derailleur to the smallest cog FIGURE 9.90
and front derailleur to the largest chainring.
d. Turn the H-limit screw clockwise to move the cage
outwards. Turn the H-screw counter-clockwise to move
the cage inward. Set derailleur for a slight gap of no
more than 1 mm between outer cage and outer plate of
chain (figure 9.89).
e. Test shifting performance. If shifting is slow or hesitant,
double-check height, rotation, and limit screw settings.
Rear Derailleur
The rear derailleur attaches to the derailleur hanger like
any mechanical derailleur. It is important for the electronic
shifting system that the hanger be parallel to the cogs. Check
alignment of the hanger with the Park Tool DAG-2 Derailleur
Alignment Gauge. The derailleur uses limit screws similar
to a mechanical derailleur. The function of mechanical type
adjusting barrels is built into the electronics. Shift to middle cogs to adjust rear derailleur
Derailleur indexing is adjusted by using the shifting mode
FIGURE 9.91
switch on the front junction box. On a mechanical derailleur,
the adjusting barrel effectively lengthens or shortens the
housing (“tightening” or “loosening” the cable). This moves
the upper guide pulley (the G-pulley) slightly left or right
under the cogs and then holds that relative position for all
indexing shifts in the normal shifting mode.
The index setting method used on the Di2® is analogous to
the cable barrel adjustment of the mechanical derailleurs, but
it is performed by means of small adjustments of the solenoid
made at the front junction box. The adjustment mode uses
the rear shifter to move the guide pulley a very small amount
and then hold that position. Each push on the X-switch moves
the guide pulley inward approximately 0.2 mm. Each push on Press and release button at junction box to enter Adjustment Mode
the Y-switch moves the pulley outward the same amount. The to move the pulley inward until you hear a noise from
switches are used to position the derailleur under the cogs. the pulley being too far inward and the chain is rubbing
The rear Di2® derailleur motor is designed to move the the next-innermost cog (figure 9.92). Press the Y-lever
derailleur cage and guide pulley and to stop under the cogs. approximately four times until the chain noise is quiet and
The derailleur also uses H-limit and L-limit screws to help the chain is no longer rubbing the next-innermost cog.
prevent any over-shift beyond the cassette cogs. The H-limit d. Press button on front junction box to lock adjustment
screw stops pulley movement beyond the smallest sprocket, setting and to return bike to Shift Mode. Test all other
and the L-limit screw stops pulley movement beyond the
FIGURE 9.92
largest rear sprocket.
The B-screw (body screw) setting is the same as on a
mechanical unit. Increase or decrease tension as needed until
the upper pulley is close to the largest rear sprocket when
the chain is on the smallest front ring. Rotate the cranks
backwards, and inspect for contact between upper pulley and
chain. Tighten B-screw until contact stops.
Procedure for rear derailleur adjustment:
a. Shift rear derailleur to one of the middle cogs (figure 9.90).
b. Push the button at the front junction to enter
Adjustment Mode. Look for the red adjustment light to
illuminate (figure 9.91). The front junction will stay in
Adjustment Mode for approximately 60 seconds. Note:
pressing the button for several seconds will reset the
derailleur from the “safe mode” and will make an audible
beep when completed.
c. Rotate the cranks to allow shifting and sight the upper Use adjust mode to move cage too far inward
pulley relative to the cog. Press the X-lever continuously before moving outward until quiet
136
rear sprockets. Return to Adjustment Mode if necessary to 5 seconds to reconnect the solenoid to the parallelogram.
fine-tune a particular gear. Similar to mechanical systems, Double-check the shifting and fine-tune the derailleur, using
it is often necessary to fine-tune in several positions to the shift adjust mode as necessary. If the adjustment has
find a setting that works in all gear combinations. significantly changed, it may be an indication that the hanger
e. Set L-limit screw. Shift derailleur to largest sprocket. has been bent. Check alignment with the Park Tool DAG-2
Look under the derailleur and tighten the limit screw to Derailleur Alignment Gauge.
contact the linkage in this position (figure 9.93). Test
adjustment by shifting between two largest sprockets. CAMPAGNOLO® EPS® DERAILLEURS:
If chain is slow to shift to largest cog, or the chain will SUPER RECORD®, RECORD®, AND ATHENA®
not stay on largest cog, loosen L-limit screw ¼ turn and The “Electronic Power Shift” (EPS®) from Campagnolo® has
test again. six basic component parts. There are two integrated shift/
FIGURE 9.93 brake levers, two derailleurs, a combined shift-interface unit,
and a battery. All are connected with proprietary wires and
plugs (figure 9.95). The integrated shift/brake levers look and
function like the mechanical cable shifting versions. The right
integrated lever controls the rear derailleur and the left lever
controls the front derailleur.
FIGURE 9.95
Tighten L-limit screw until lightly contacting linkage
FIGURE 9.94
Pull rubber hood to expose cover to brake lever wiring

The rear integrated shift/brake lever on the right side has
two electronic switches and a mode-button. There is a switch
located directly behind the braking lever, which is used to
shift the rear derailleur inward to the larger sprockets. Your
fingers operate this paddle-shaped switch, referred to here
as the “paddle-switch.” The thumb operates a smaller switch
inboard of lever body to move the rear derailleur outward to
Tighten H-limit screw until lightly touching, then loosen ¼ turn smaller sprockets. This will be called the “thumb-switch.” The
f. Set H-limit screw. Shift to smallest sprocket. Sighting mode-button is located behind the thumb-switch, and is used
under the derailleur body, tighten the H-limit screw until to adjust the system and check the available battery reserve.
it contacts linkage, and then loosen ½ turn counter- The integrated shift/brake lever on the left also has two
clockwise (figure 9.94). This loose H-limit setting allows switches and a mode-button (figure 9.96). The paddle-switch
a slight over-shift designed into the electronic shifting. moves the front derailleur outward to the large chainring.
Test the shift by rotating the cranks and switching the FIGURE 9.96
chain between the two outermost cogs.
g. Set B-screw as with mechanical derailleurs. Shift to small
front ring and largest rear cog. Rotate cranks and inspect
upper pulley to cog clearance. If cog is striking pulley,
tighten B-screw.
Crash Feature
The rear derailleur has a built-in protection feature to help
in case of a crash. During an impact, the connection between
the solenoid motor and the parallelogram opens, and the rear
derailleur will no longer operate. This is designed to help
protect the system when the bicycle falls over. To reset the
system, press the button on the front junction for at least Locations of mode-button (A), thumb-switch (B), and paddle-switch (C)
The thumb-switch on the inboard side of the left lever body adjustments before the adjustment mode shuts off. Should you
moves the front derailleur inward to the small chainring. The allow 40 seconds to elapse, the system will return the previous
lever also has a mode-button behind the thumb-switch. The adjustment setting; it will not hold your latest work unless
two mode buttons can be used independently to adjust their you lock in the setting by pressing a mode button briefly.
respective derailleurs or simultaneously to initially set up the It is safest to always adjust the bike in a repair stand rather
system. Either mode button can check the battery charge level. than adjusting while riding.
The rear derailleur has a built in dwell feature where it will Procedure for zero-setting EPS® rear derailleur:
move slightly beyond the intended cog and then move back a. If in place, remove the shut-off magnet from the battery.
under the intended cog. This is best seen when the bike is in b. Shift rear derailleur to largest (innermost) rear cog. Shift
the stand. Shift the bike and watch how, after a hesitation, front derailleur to the largest (outermost) chainring.
the guide pulley will correct itself to align under the sprocket. c. Simultaneously push both front and rear mode-buttons
The front derailleur has an automatic trim feature and will and hold for at least 6 seconds. Watch for solid blue light
move slightly left or right to correct chain rub on the front at shift-interface (figure 9.98).
derailleur cage as the rear derailleur moves the chain laterally FIGURE 9.98
left and right.
The system should be turned off when performing any
mechanical work such as positioning or mounting a derailleur,
or plugging and unplugging electronic cables. Insert the
battery magnet supplied with the system into the back of the
battery. The magnet must be removed to operate or adjust any
of the electronic features of the system (figure 9.97).
FIGURE 9.97
Watch for blue light on shift-interface

d. Rotate the cranks to allow shifting. At the right side
lever, push and hold the thumb-switch to move the
rear derailleur to the second-smallest (second position)
rear cog. Pushing the lever will move guide pulley in
continuous motion, not in an indexing mode. Use care
to stop on second position cog and not shift outward
into the frame or dropout. Use paddle-switch if you
Remove shut-off magnet before setting gear adjustments have shifted too far, returning the chain to the second
position cog (figure 9.99).
EPS® Rear Derailleur Adjustment e. Fine-tune position of guide pulley to second position
The EPS® rear derailleur is designed for the spacing of the cog. Blue light at shift-interface should still be on at this
Campagnolo 11-speed cassette cogs. The electronic shifting time. Rotate the cranks, and inspect position of guide
processor controls the range of rear derailleur motion and stops pulley relative to the second position cog. Push paddle-
the derailleur cage appropriately under each sprocket. The FIGURE 9.99
derailleur also has mechanical H-limit and L-limit screws that
act as redundant safety limits to the derailleur’s motion at the
two outer cogs. Normal shifting and stopping at these outer-
and innermost cogs, however, is determined electronically.
There are two different adjustment procedures. The “zero-
setting” is done to set the full range of the rear gears or
front chainrings. The zero-setting clears the derailleur of
all previous settings, and the derailleur must “learn” the
position of the cassette by being adjusted to the second and
tenth position cogs. The “ride-setting” is analogous to a
mechanical index cable adjustment, and is used to fine-tune
the alignment of the derailleur, if necessary.
During adjustments, the left side of the shift-interface unit
will indicate the current mode of adjustment via the color
of the LED light on the shift-interface unit. When making
the adjustments described below, you have approximately 40
seconds after the last use of the lever switch to make other Move rear derailleur to second smallest cog
138
switch to move pulley inward slightly. Push thumb-switch FIGURE 9.102

to move guide pulley slightly outward. Adjust guide
pulley using switches for the rear shifter so chain runs
quietly and smoothly on this second-smallest rear cog.
f. On rear shift lever, push and release mode-button
once. Inspect for a white light at shift-interface LED
(figure 9.100).
FIGURE 9.100
Tighten L-limit screw until contact, and proceed to loosen

approximately ¼ turn
k. Shift derailleur to largest sprocket. View derailleur from
White light of the shift-interface backside and turn L-limit screw to contact derailleur
FIGURE 9.101 linkage and turn counter-clockwise ¼−½ turn (figure
9.102). This limit screw helps to prevent the derailleur
from shifting beyond the last cog into the spokes.
The B-screw is adjusted after the rear derailleur zero-
setting is finished. The EPS® B-screw setting is similar to
Campagnolo® mechanical models. Put the front derailleur on
the small chainring and the rear derailleur on the largest rear
cog. Inspect for a guide-pulley-to-cog clearance of 5−7 mm.
Adjust the B-screw located at the cage pivot. Tightening
the B-screw brings the guide pulley closer to the sprocket.
Loosening the B-screw moves the pulley further away.
EPS® Front Derailleur Adjustment

The front derailleur is fitted with an electronic motor to
drive the derailleur cage left and right. The battery uses
digital technology to communicate simultaneously with the
rear and front derailleurs. This permits the EPS® system to
Move derailleur to second largest rear sprocket make adjustments to the position of the front cage depending
g. Rotate the cranks to allow shifting. Press and hold upon the chain position on the rear sprockets. The front
paddle-switch on right lever to move chain to the derailleur assumes the bike is using the Campagnolo® crankset
second-largest rear sprocket (tenth position cog) (figure and will shift according to that spacing.
9.101). Chain will move continuously. Procedure for zero-setting EPS® front derailleur:
h. Fine-tune chain position for quiet running in the tenth a. Shift rear derailleur to largest rear sprocket and front
position using switches for rear shifter. White light is derailleur to largest chainring.
still on at shift-interface. Inspect pulley and chain as b. Depress and hold both shift lever mode-buttons for 6
you rotate the cranks. Push paddle-switch to move guide seconds. Hold until a solid blue light comes on in the
pulley inward toward spokes. Push thumb-switch to move shift-interface LED.
pulley slightly outward. Adjust guide pulley so chain c. Rotate the cranks. Push and release the left side thumb-
runs quietly under tenth position cog. switch once. Next, rotate the cranks and hold down
i. Push mode-button at rear shifter once and release. thumb-switch to move chain to the small chainring.
Inspect for shift-interface LED light to flash blue three Rotate the cranks slowly and inspect the derailleur as
times. The rear derailleur adjustment is now stored it moves to the closest approach between chain and
in the shifting processors. If the mode-button is not inner derailleur cage. Stop rotating the cranks and use
pushed, the adjustment will not be stored and will be this point to set clearance between cage and chain.
lost within 40 seconds. You must begin again to set Use paddle-switch and thumb-switch to adjust front
derailleur adjustments. derailleur cage for a small gap of 0.5−1.0 mm between
j. Test shift by shifting to all gears with rear derailleur. chain and inner cage of derailleur (figure 9.103).
Set gap at chain-to-cage to be 0.5−1.0 mm

d. Push mode-button on left lever and watch for the LED
light flashing blue three times.
e. Test shift of front derailleur between large and small
chainrings. Test front shift with rear derailleur on Position for quiet running under sprocket using paddle-switch to move
largest rear sprocket and repeat front shift test with derailleur inward (A) and thumb-switch to move outward (B)
rear derailleur on smallest rear sprocket. If necessary for c. After the guide pulley is adjusted, push and release the
either large or small ring, use ride-setting to fine-tune mode-button to lock this setting. The LED light will flash
adjustment. For example, if front derailleur cage strikes three times to confirm the bike has returned to normal
crank as bike is pedaled, use front derailleur ride-mode in cog-to-cog shifting.
large chainring to fine-tune the setting. d. Rotate the cranks and shift rear derailleur to test setting.
Repeat adjustment if necessary.
EPS® Derailleur Ride-Setting Procedure for ride-setting EPS® front derailleur:
The ride-setting is used to fine-tune the shift if you are a. If ride-setting to the large front ring position, shift chain
on a ride and it seems out of adjustment. The ride setting to smallest rear cog. If ride-setting to the small front
will not change the derailleur’s extreme range of travel. ring position, shift chain to largest rear cog.
Ride-setting offers a way to fine-tune either the front or rear b. Press and hold mode-button on the left lever for 6 seconds.
derailleur. Although this procedure is called the ride-setting, Watch for a solid purple light at the shift-interface.
it is best done by having someone hold the bike while you c. Rotate the cranks and note position of front cage
perform the adjustment rather than riding the bike while you relative to chain (figure 9.106). Ride-setting will only
make adjustments. fine-tune position on the chainring it is currently
Procedure for ride-setting EPS® rear derailleur: on, do not use ride-setting mode to shift chain to a
a. Depress and hold mode-button on the right lever for different ring. Use left side thumb-switch or paddle-
6 seconds. Watch for a solid purple light at the shift- switch to move cage small, incremental amounts. For
interface (figure 9.104). the large front chainring, position outer cage close to
FIGURE 9.104 chain but not touching. If ride-setting the small front
ring, position inner derailleur cage close to chain but
not touching.
d. Push and release the mode-button to lock this setting.
The LED light will flash purple three times to confirm the
bike has returned to normal shifting.
FIGURE 9.106
Set shift-interface to rear derailleur adjust mode

b. Rotate the cranks and note position of guide pulley
relative to the rear cog the chain is currently engaged
on. Using the thumb-switch and the paddle-switch, move
the guide pulley in small, incremental amounts (figure
9.105). Position the pulley and chain for quiet running
on the sprocket. Check for small gap between outer cage and chain
140
e. Shift bike between both front chainrings. Repeat front EPS® Battery and Charging Unit
shift with chain at the two extreme chainline positions. To test the battery capacity, push either mode-button once
Test with chain in largest rear cog and then in the and release. Inspect shift-interface LED color for an indication
smallest rear cog. of the remaining battery charge:
• Solid green: 60−100%
Crash Mode and Ride Home Mode • Flashing green: 40−60%
Should the bike fall over or crash, the rear derailleur cage • Solid yellow: 20−40%
may “disengage” from the detents in the shifting mechanism. • Solid red: 6−20%
The cage will be pushed inward to help prevent damage. It • Flashing red, with buzzer noise at battery: below 6%
is recommended someone on the ride help by holding the Use only the Campagnolo® EPS® battery charger to
bike while you hand pedal and adjust the bike. To return charge the battery. Be sure the plug connection at the
the derailleur to proper shifting, rotate the cranks while battery is fully dry before plugging into the charging unit.
supporting the main body of the derailleur, and pull the cage The battery charger includes a built in LED display. An
outward until you feel it stop. Continue rotating the cranks orange LED indicates the unit is in the process of charging.
and depress the rear thumb-switch to get the cage to the A green LED indicates charging is complete. The battery
smallest rear cog. Carefully shift to each rear gear using the requires approximately 4 hours to fully charge a battery
paddle-switch and note the alignment of the guide pulley with no reserve.
under the cogs. After any crash on the right side of the bike,
inspect for a bent derailleur hanger. Troubleshooting
The EPS™ rear derailleur also has a “ride home” feature where Campagnolo® designed the battery LED to be useful in
the cage can be manually pushed inward from the current diagnosing problems. Inspect for the color of the light at
sprocket position. This is useful should the battery fail or a wire the LED window. If the solutions below do not return the
become disconnected or cut. Manual shifting of the bike is done system to working order, contact an authorized Campagnolo®
off the bike. Hold the main body of the derailleur and push the Service Center.
cage inward to larger sprockets while rotating the cranks (figure • White: Battery system problem. Press mode-button once
9.107). The cage cannot be pulled outward beyond the position and attempt shift.
it was in when the battery died. After charging a dead battery, • Yellow: Front derailleur problem. Press mode-button
perform a full zero setting adjustment on both derailleurs. once and attempt shift. Readjust front with zero-setting
The front derailleur has no crash mode or ride home mode. procedure if necessary.
It cannot be manually pushed to different chainrings. • Green: Rear derailleur problem. Press mode-button
FIGURE 9.107 once and attempt shift. Readjust rear with zero-setting
procedure if necessary.
• Blue: Front derailleur switch problem. Press mode-button
once and attempt shift. Readjust with zero-setting
procedure if necessary.
• Purple: Rear derailleur switch problem. Press mode-
button once and attempt shift. Readjust with zero-
setting procedure if necessary.
• Red: Shift-interface problem. Press mode-button and
attempt shift again.
See the Campagnolo® website for a useful troubleshooting
chart. Campagnolo® recommends cleaning bikes with EPS®
only by wiping with damp cloths. Full washing with water
Push lower pivot of derailleur inward to manually shift pressure may degrade the system.
10 Internal gear systems
Internal gear systems
CHAPTER 10 INTERNAL GEAR SYSTEMS
I nternally-geared hubs allow for different gear ratio selections

without a derailleur system. These hubs contain a series of
gears called “planetary gears” that act as a transmission.
A center gear, called the “sun gear,” is fixed to the axle and
engages the outer gears known as the “planets.” All planets
FIGURE 10.2
are engaged into the “planet carrier” that drives the hub
shell. Different planet gears engage or disengage the sun gear
for a particular gear ratio. Internally-geared hubs use a special
keyed washer and axles with flats that prevent the axle from
rotating in the dropout (figure 10.1). Wheel installation, cable
attachment, and gear adjustment are reviewed here. Internal
hub service is best left to professional mechanics.
FIGURE 10.1
Remove click-box to access axle nuts
b. Secure axle nuts fully.
c. If shifting rod was removed, reinstall and gently secure
with screwdriver.
d. Push button downward on click-box and install box on
axle by pushing box against axle nut.
e. Push click-box button upward from below to engage
lever arm on to shifting rod. Test by pulling gently on
click-box away from hub to ensure it is seated on the
axle threads.
The rear derailleur is adjusted as any other derailleur system.
See Chapter 9, Derailleur Systems, for rear derailleur adjustments.
Keyed washer to prevent axle rotation The internal gears of the DualDrive™ are adjusted by changes
Internally geared hubs use one of the middle gears as the in cable tension from the shift lever. To adjust the three
“neutral” or 100% of the front ring-to-rear cog ratio. This internal gears, shift lever to the middle position. Inspect inside
gear gives the same mechanical advantage as if the bike were the window of the click-box for the lever with a yellow mark.
a single speed. Gears on either side of this neutral gear will Use barrel adjusters to change cable tension and move yellow
either reduce the gear ratio by some amount, or increase it. FIGURE 10.3
For example, the first gear of the SRAM® DualDrive™ hub
reduces the gear to 73% of the middle position, and third gear
increases it to 136% of the middle position.
SRAM® DUALDRIVE™
The SRAM® DualDrive™ hub offers three internal gear
choices. The hub is also fitted with a freehub and cassette
that is shifted by a derailleur. The internal hub gears can be
viewed as a replacement of the three front chainring choices.
Internal hub gears are shifted through a small rod on the
right side of the axle. The shift rod attaches to the “click-box,”
which pulls the shifting rod engaging different combinations
of planetary gears inside the hub. The wheel can be removed Adjust cable tension until yellow mark aligns between marks
to service the tire and tube, and the cable can be replaced. FIGURE 10.4
Procedure for wheel removal:
a. Shift internal shift lever toward lowest gear range (to
the left). Shift the external derailleur to smallest rear
cog on derailleur.
b. Push button on click-box downward to release box from
shifting rod. Pull box off of right side axle (figure 10.2).
c. Loosen left and right axle nuts. Shifting rod may remain
in the right side of the axle, but use care not to bend or
damage rod.
d. Remove wheel from bike.
Procedure for wheel installation:
a. Install wheel in frame and align. Use care to position
special alignment washer in frame dropout. Cable access of the SRAM® double control lever
144
INTERNAL GEAR SYSTEMS CHAPTER 10
mark to adjustment mark on window of click box (figure 10.3). d. At shift lever, remove cover over internal shift cable
Test adjustment by shifting to all three possible positions. (figure 10.6).
The DualDrive™ system has two cables at the shift lever. e. Push old cable from lever. Lubricate and install new cable
One wire shifts the derailleur. A second cable shifts the rod at and route though lever and housing back to click-box.
the click-box. The derailleur cable installs under a ring-cover, Thread barrel adjuster fully into click-box.
which is held by a screw. Disconnect cable from rear derailleur f. Thread cable into pinch bolt mechanism. Push click-box
and remove screw-on ring-cover at lever. Pull cover outward to to housing end cap, while pulling back on lever. Secure
expose cable end and push out old shift cable. Lubricate new pinch bolt (figure 10.7).
cable and install through hole left by old cable. Push cover to
lever, install screw, and secure (figure 10.4). SRAM® I-MOTION® 9
Procedure for internal shift cable installation: The I-Motion® 9 hub offers nine different gear ratios. The
a. Remove click-box as described in wheel removal above. sixth position used for adjusting the hub gears. It is necessary
b. Remove back end of click-box. Hold main body of box and to detach the shift cable when removing the wheel. Internal
push downward on corner end of click-box (figure 10.5). hub service should be left to professional mechanics.
c. Loosen cable pinch bolt inside click-box and pull cable Procedure for wheel removal:
from click-box. a. Turn shifter to first gear.
FIGURE 10.5 b. Slide quick-disconnect sleeve on connecting tube and
slide it away from hub.
c. Pull connecting tube down and away from hub fitting
(figure 10.8).
FIGURE 10.8
Hold click-box and pry corner down and away
FIGURE 10.6
Remove connecting tube

d. Loosen axle nuts. Remove coaster arm locking bolt if
applicable.
e. Remove wheel.
Procedure for wheel installation:
a. Install washers with serrations toward frame. Washer lugs
must fit into dropouts to prevent axle rotation.
b. Tighten drive side then non-drive. Check and correct
chain tension as necessary.
c. Install and secure coaster arm locking bolt if applicable.
Remove and install cable at shift lever d. Move shifter to first gear.
FIGURE 10.7 e. Open quick disconnect sleeve and connect catch to
shifting stud at hub.
Procedure for gear adjustment:
a. Shift bike to seventh gear, then shift to sixth gear.
b. View window at right side of hub for red and yellow marks.
c. Use barrel adjuster at the connecting tube and adjust
cable tension until yellow marker on moving indicator
aligns with red marker of hub (figure 10.9).
d. Test gears by shifting through gear range.
Procedure for cable change:
a. Shift to first gear.
b. Remove quick-disconnect sleeve from hub.
c. To remove old cable, pull at connecting tube away from
Pull cable snug and secure pinch bolt housing and cut cable.
CHAPTER 10 INTERNAL GEAR SYSTEMS
FIGURE 10.9 j. Install adjusting barrel and coil spring over wire.
k. Carefully compress coil spring over cable and install
connection nipple onto end of cable. Secure setscrew to
hold cable (figure 10.11).
l. Install connection nipple and cable into connecting tube.
Asymmetrical shape of nipple will fit tube in only one
orientation. Nipple should be visible at end of tube with
open end facing hub connection stud.
m.Thread barrel adjuster fully on to connecting tube.
n. Install quick-disconnect sleeve to hub and adjust hub
gears as described above.
SHIMANO® NEXUS INTER-7®, NEXUS

Align marks through window to adjust gears INTER-8®, & ALFINE® HUBS
d. Remove adjusting barrel from connecting tube. The Nexus Inter-7®, Nexus Inter-8®, and Alfine® hubs use a
e. Remove coil spring, remaining shift wire, and connection “cassette joint” on the right side to actuate the gears. When
nipple from connecting tube. Loosen setscrew in installing wheel, it may be easier to work with the bike upside
connection nipple and remove old cable. down. This allows the use of two hands to manipulate parts.
f. Using a small-tipped screwdriver, remove cable cap from Procedure for wheel removal:
shift lever. You may need the screwdriver to also help a. Shift lever to first gear on the indicator.
pull the head of the cable out. Push cable while engaging b. Remove housing for housing stop at hub cassette joint.
cable end with tip of screwdriver (figure 10.10). Pull at housing end and disengage from housing stop
g. Install new cable through shift lever. It can be helpful to (figure 10.12).
slightly bend end of new wire to feed it through bend c. Detach cable anchor from cassette joint. Rotate anchor
in lever. and lift it from hook in joint.
h. Route new cable through housing. Ensure all end caps are d. Loosen axle nuts and remove wheel. The cassette joint
fully pressed onto housing. consists of three pieces and is held to the hub by a
i. With shift lever in first gear and housing fully seated, lockring. The cassette joint may stay together for wheel
cut cable a distance of 105 mm (4⅛ inches) past the service. Turning the lockring lever counter-clockwise
housing end cap. releases the joint. To install the joint, align a series of
Remove cable from shifter Release cable from housing stop to detach anchor from cassette joint
Secure shift wire setscrew Cassette joint of Inter hub system
146
INTERNAL GEAR SYSTEMS CHAPTER 10
yellow dots on the assembly. Turn lockring clockwise 45 Route shift cable through housing to rear hub. A pinch bolt
degrees to lock cassette joint (figure 10.13). mechanism is used to attach cable anchor to cassette joint.
The hub axle uses special keyed washers to prevent the axle Pull firmly on cable to ensure it is seated in the housing
from rotating in the dropouts under load. Align the cable- stops. Back out barrel adjuster approximately two turns from
housing stop of the cassette joint so it points toward the shift full engagement to allow adjustment. Secure pinch mechanism
cable. For hub models with coaster or band brakes, secure so there is a distance of approximately 100 mm from the end
left side braking arm to frame. Install wheel and adjust chain cap to center of bolt (figure 10.15). Secure nut; cable will
tension as on a single-speed system. flatten at pinch mechanism.
The common shifter for the Inter hub systems is the Gears are adjusted by alignment marks on the cassette joint.
Revoshift® shifter. To install a new shift cable, remove the The marks are visible both from above and below the bike.
cover screw and lift cover from lever body. Turn shifter to Procedure for gear adjustment:
gear seven or eight, whichever allows better access to cable a. If not already done, engage cable anchor bolt to cassette
end. Push on exposed cable adjacent to barrel adjuster to joint (figure 10.16).
gain cable slack. Use a small-tipped screwdriver to remove b. For Inter-7® and Inter-8® hubs and shifters, shift to the
cable end from lever (figure 10.14). Install new cable first fourth gear position. For Alfine® 11-speed, shift to the
through barrel adjuster and then route cable back into cable sixth position.
end anchor. Install cover and cover screw and shift lever to c. Use barrel adjust to align red marks on cassette joint
first gear. (figure 10.17). Shift all gears after adjustment.
Shift cable attachment in Revo shift lever Engage pinch bolt into cassette joint
Measure approximately 100 mm between end cap and center of pinch bolt Align shifting adjustment marks at joint
11 Caliper disc brake systems
Caliper disc brake systems
CHAPTER 11 CALIPER DISC BRAKE SYSTEMS
D isc brake systems use a caliper brake mounted near

the dropouts of the frame or fork end and rotor
(disc) mounted to the hub. Disc brakes can be designed
into many types of bikes including MTB bikes, road bikes,
cyclocross bikes, hybrid, and road bikes.
FIGURE 11.3
Brake pads are housed in the caliper and are forced onto
the rotor, which slows the bike by converting the speed
of the bike into heat. Disc brakes can be effective in wet
weather where mud, dirt, and water are a concern in braking.
The system can generate significant heat from slowing the
bike. Allow the rotor and caliper to cool before touching.
The rotors are made of machined steel, and the edges can
be sharp. Always use care when working with or around disc
brakes and rotors. It can be also useful to move the skewer International Standard (IS) disc brake caliper
lever to the opposite side of the rotor to help prevent injury mountting system on rear seat stay
(figure 11.1). entire system being sealed and free of air bubbles when the
FIGURE 11.1 lever is pulled.
Disc brake caliper bodies use two different mounting
standards on the bicycle frame and fork. The International
Standard (IS) uses two mounting tabs with unthreaded holes
spaced 51 mm apart (figure 11.3). The caliper mounting bolts
are positioned perpendicular to the face of the rotor. Calipers
may be bolted directly to the mounting tabs, or the caliper
may use an adaptor bracket that is secured to the tabs.
Brackets are available in different sizes to allow for use of a
larger or smaller rotor.
Another mounting system is the post mount (PM) (figure
11.4). Post mount systems allow most brake calipers to be
directly mounted to the frame or fork without an adaptor
bracket. Post mount caliper mounting bolts are parallel with
the rotor. The mounting holes are spaced 74 mm apart with
internal threading for M6 bolts. Adaptor brackets and spacers
can be used to raise the caliper body, allowing the use of
Front mechanical caliper and rotor larger rotor sizes. Consult the frame or fork manufacturer if
an adaptor is required.
CALIPER TYPES FIGURE 11.4
Disc brake systems can be either mechanical or hydraulic.
Mechanical systems use calipers that are cable actuated,
similar to rim caliper brakes, using brake cable housing and an
inner brake cable pulled by the brake lever (figure 11.1).
Hydraulic caliper systems use sealed tubing and pistons to
move the brake pads (figure 11.2). Brake fluid travels from a
piston at the lever to pistons behind the brake pads, which
in turn push against the rotor. The brake system relies on the
FIGURE 11.2
Post Mount (PM) system on fork
BRAKE PADS
Each disc brake manufacturer designs pads compatible with
their system. Pads do not interchange between most brands,
although there are pad manufacturers making after-market
pads for many different models.
Brake pads wear thin with use as they rub the rotor under
pressure. Pads should never be worn down to where the metal
Rear hydraulic caliper and rotor holder is showing or contacting the rotor. Typically there
150
CALIPER DISC BRAKE SYSTEMS CHAPTER 11
should be a minimum of 3 mm pad thickness, but contact FIGURE 11.7

your brake manufacturer for their specifications.
Brake pads for both mechanical and hydraulic systems are
available in various compounds (figure 11.5). Generally, a
softer organic or resin material will tend to squeal less, which
can be an issue in some systems. These will also offer the user
more modulation. However, the resin type pads tend to also
wear more quickly. The harder sintered or semi-metallic pads
will last longer, especially in wet and muddy conditions, but
also tend be noisier. Check the brake rotor before selecting
pads. Some rotors are designed for resin pads only, and this
will be printed on the rotor. Resin-only rotors will not hold up
to the harder semi-metallic pads.
Brake pads should be kept clean of fluids, oil, and grease. Shimano® center-lock rotor lockring use the FR-5 lockring tool
Contaminated pads should be replaced. A light sanding FIGURE 11.8
with very fine emery cloth can help to clean marginal pads.
Use isopropyl alcohol or acetone when cleaning dirt or oils
from the rotor surface. Do not use a solvent or cleaner that
contains oils or leaves an oily residue.
FIGURE 11.5
Center-lock rotor on thru axle hub using the BBT-19

rotors and tighten to the hub with a lockring similar to a rear
cassette lockring. Use the Park Tool FR-5 for lockrings with
12 internal notches sized like the cassette lockring (figure
11.7). Use the Park Tool BBT-9 for lockrings with 16 external
Left: Semi-metallic disc brake pad; Right: Resin disc brake pad
notches, common on thru-axle hubs in both front and rear
(figure 11.8).
DISC BRAKE ROTORS Rotors are available in 140, 145, 152, 160, 180, 183, 185,
The rotor of the disc brake system secures to a disc-specific 200, and 203 mm diameter sizes. The brake caliper, brake
hub. The common system uses six bolts on a flange built mount on the frame/fork, and rotor diameter must all be
into the hub shell. Rotor-mounting bolts are commonly M5 compatible. A larger rotor provides more leverage during
threading and use a Torx® T-25 size wrench (figure 11.6). braking, which results in a more powerful brake. Frame and
Secure rotor bolts to manufacturer's torque specifications. Rotor fork design will limit the rotor size options. It is possible on
design is commonly asymmetrical and directional. Inspect the some frames/forks to change rotor diameter by also changing
rotor for rotational direction arrows before installing. the caliper mounting adaptor bracket. Different rotor brands
Disc hubs may also be designed with a splined fitting for are commonly interchanged between calipers, assuming the
compatible rotors. These are referred to as “center-lock” replacement rotor is the correct diameter.
Secure rotor bolts using the Torx® driver An obvious step from pad wear requires rotor replacement
Braking will eventually grind and thin the rotors to where HYDRAULIC BRAKE LEVERS
they must be replaced. A common manufacturer's minimum rotor Brake levers are positioned on the handlebar similar to
replacement thickness is 1.6 mm. Measure caliper thickness and conventional or non-hydraulic levers. Set the angle for
replace before it reaches this minimal tolerance. Replace the comfortable reach when the cyclist is in the saddle. The lever
rotor if it has developed an obvious step at the braking surface reach from bar to lever is adjusted with a screw either behind
where it is contacted by the brake pads (figure 11.9). or in front of the lever (figure 11.11). Turning the reach
Rotors may become bent or warped with use and abuse. screw moves the lever relative to the handlebar. The reach
Some re-bending for alignment may be possible. The Park Tool adjustment screw does not move the pistons closer to the
DT-2 Rotor Truing Fork allows re-bending of the rotor (figure rotors. Set the lever reach for rider preference.
11.10). It can be useful to number the rotor arms to better FIGURE 11.11
track the repair progress. Mount the bike in a repair stand
and spin the wheel. Watch for a lateral wobble (runout) at the
caliper pads, or hold the DT-2 close to the rotor as a truing
indicator. Stop the wheel where it rubs and note the location
and direction of the rub. Also note your reference number
on the spider arm. Move the rotor out of the caliper body to
permit bending, and use the DT-2 or adjustable wrench to
bend this area slightly. Spin the wheel and check the rotor
again. Repeat as necessary. If rotor true does not improve
after several attempts, rotor replacement is the best option.
FIGURE 11.10
Brake lever reach adjustment screw on a Shimano® lever
FIGURE 11.12
Move area to be re-bent away from the caliper body

Replacement rotors should match the intended brake pads.
Some rotors are sold as “resin pads only.” Do not use the
sintered or semi-metallic pads with these rotors. Reservoir and bladder at brake lever
New rotors and new pads should be “burned in.” The heat The hydraulic brake lever contains a piston called the
of burn-in helps remove solvents and any residue from the “primary cylinder” (primary piston). When the lever is pulled,
pads and rotors. Pad material is also transferred to the rotor the primary cylinder pushes brake fluid down the sealed
face. To burn-in a new rotor, begin by cleaning it with alcohol hydraulic line to a pair of pistons in the caliper body, and these
or acetone. Under clean and dry conditions, ride the bike at push against the pads. The pads will press and rub against the
speed on flat pavement and apply the brakes with force, as rotor and this results in heat. The heat is dissipated at the
in a “panic stop,” but do not skid the tires. Repeat this ten rotor, but some heat will also transfer to the piston and fluid.
times for each brake. Use care when burning in the front Brake fluid expands as it picks up heat from the pads rubbing
brake that you do not flip the bike. against the rotor. Hydraulic disc systems use a reservoir system
that contains a bladder to allow for the expansion of the brake
HYDRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEMS fluid. Some models use an “open system” while others use an
Hydraulic brakes should be used with compatible lever enclosed bladder (figure 11.12). The primary piston is sealed
and calipers. The designs of the primary and secondary from the reservoir when the lever is pulled but opens to the
pistons are proprietary. Do not mix brake levers and calipers reservoir when the lever is fully open.
between brands. Some models of hydraulic brake levers can be rebuilt with
Hydraulic systems should be inspected at all fittings and new seals and primary pistons. This work is best left to
hose connections for leakage and seepage on a regular basis. professional mechanics.
As in all hydraulic systems, it is important that there is no
air in the tubing or lines between the caliper and the primary HYDRAULIC DISC CALIPERS
piston. Air bubbles in the line will compress and cause the Because the hydraulic fluid does not compress or flex
brake to feel soft when the lever is pulled with force. under stress, hydraulic systems are considered more efficient
152
and provide higher performance compared to mechanical disc FIGURE 11.14

systems. A spring inside the brake lever body pushes back
the primary piston when the lever is released. This pulls the
fluid back from the caliper pistons to retract them from the
rotor face.
With use, dirt and moisture will gradually creep past the
seals into the brake fluid, contaminating the brake fluid.
Hydraulic systems should occasionally be bled and old fluid
replaced, even if the braking is good and there is no air in the
line. Changing fluid and bleeding once a year is typically an
adequate fluid change interval.
When fluid change bleeding a brake it is critical to use
the correct type of fluid when servicing brake system. Some
manufacturers specify proprietary mineral fluids, while others The pad above is new, while the used pad below show signs of
use an automotive DOT brake fluid. The different types of misalignment of caliper to the rotor.
brake fluid should never be mixed. Using an incompatible Disc pads are designed to strike the rotor face flat or square.
fluid may cause seals to fail and result in brake failure. Inspect old pads when removed. If pads are worn unevenly,
Automotive fluids are DOT (Department of Transportation) it may be a sign that the caliper is misaligned to the rotor
approved and are generally polyglycol fluids. The DOT fluids (figure 11.14).
have different ratings, such as 3, 4, or 5. Contact the brake Caliper brake bodies commonly have a lateral adjustment
manufacturer for a specific recommendation. Automotive and allow adjustment of the front and back edges of the
brake fluids are caustic and toxic. Work with care to avoid pads to the rotor. The top and bottom edges of pad should
fluid contact with the outside of the lever, caliper, bike, also strike the rotor flat. Depending upon the design of the
and your skin. When available, use protective gloves, such caliper, proper alignment will rely on the machining of the
as Park Tool MG-2 Mechanic Gloves. During any work with caliper mounts relative to the rotor. If no adjustment of the
hydraulic fluid, clean spills on the bike, caliper, or lever with caliper will stop pad rubbing and allow pads to strike the
a rag and isopropyl alcohol or soapy water. DOT hydraulic rotor flush, the frame fork mounts may require machining
fluids can damage paint finish. Bleeding tools and syringes (facing). Consult a professional mechanic.
for mineral fluid should not be used for automotive DOT fluid Procedure for hydraulic caliper alignment:
and vice versa. a. Remove the wheel from bike. Push both pads back into
When servicing hydraulic brakes, work in clean conditions. caliper body using a piston tool such as the PP-1.2 or a
Use care to keep hydraulic pieces such as the bladder, bleed plastic tire lever.
port screws, and any fittings clean and away from dirt. b. Fully loosen caliper-mounting bolts. This will allow the
The caliper pistons and piston seals will wear out with time caliper to move sideways.
and use and require replacement. Caliper body and piston c. Reinstall the wheel.
overhaul is best performed by professional mechanics. d. Depress the brake lever to secure pads against the rotor
and maintain pressure. This will move the caliper so pads
Hydraulic Brake Caliper Alignment are aligned to the rotor. Inspect caliper and brake pad
It can be difficult and awkward to view the caliper-to-rotor pistons. Push caliper left or right until pistons appear
alignment because the pads are hidden inside caliper body. centered over rotor. Maintain pressure on the rotor and
There are tight tolerances between pad and rotor. Work in tighten the caliper mounting bolts (figure 11.15).
well lit areas. It can help to place white paper, or equivalent, e. Release lever and inspect this initial pad alignment.
behind the area you are viewing. Shine a flashlight on the Ideally, the pads should clear the rotor with no rubbing.
paper to backlight the pad and rotor (figure 11.13). Fine-tune the pad alignment by fully loosening one
Use a white background to help in viewing pad to rotor alignment Align caliper pad to rotor and then tighten caliper-mounting bolts
mounting bolt while keeping the other bolt snug. This will requiring mineral fluid. Shimano® offers bleed kits for their
allow you to push the caliper while pivoting off the snug brakes based on two different systems. The common Shimano®
bolt. In some cases, however, a light rubbing may occur no design uses a reservoir at the lever with a removable cover.
matter the adjustment. This should not affect performance. This can be bled from the lever downward to the caliper.
Disc brake calipers can also be designed to bolt directly to A second type is used on XTR levers, which do not have a
the IS mounts. This design has no built-in lateral adjustment, removable cover at the lever. This system requires the use of a
and it is necessary to use thin washers and shims to adjust bleed kit from Shimano®, part number TL-BT03-S, and is not
the caliper alignment. A shimming washer can be placed covered in this book.
between the frame or fork mount and the caliper body (figure
11.16). View pad-to-rotor alignment and then add or subtract Brake Pad Removal and Replacement
washers as necessary. The upper and lower mounts may For Shimano® pads, replace when pad material (not
require different amounts of shimming. including pad holder) is less than 0.9 mm thick. As the pads
FIGURE 11.16 wear, the pistons reposition closer to the rotor. It will be
necessary to remove the rotor and push the pistons away from
the center before installing new pads.
Procedure for pad replacement:
a. Mount bike in repair stand and remove wheel.
b. Push pads back into calipers using a piston press such as
the Park Tool PP-1.2. Note: If no piston press is available,
remove pads and use a plastic tire lever to push pistons
back into caliper body.
c. Remove pad fixing bolt clip and unscrew pad fixing
bolt (figure 11.17). Shimano® also uses a cotter pin
as a retaining device. Use needle nose pliers to bend
cotter pin straight and pull cotter pin from caliper body
Add a shim washer to move caliper and pads laterally (figure 11.18).
When a hydraulic brake lever is pulled, both the outer d. Remove pads by pushing them outward and away from
and inner pistons of hydraulic calipers are designed to move hub axle. Note orientation of pad return spring between
toward the rotor the same distance and at the same time. pads. This spring assists pad release from rotor
However, because of small differences in seals, pistons, and during braking.
caliper bodies, it may be that one pad strikes the rotor first. FIGURE 11.17
This is not a problem because no pressure will be applied until
the second pad reaches the rotor. One pad and piston may not
retract as fully as the other into the caliper body as compared
to the other pad when the brake lever is released. Consider
this retracted position as the “normal” or resting position.
Use the resting position when positioning the caliper body
laterally over the rotor, instead of trying to adjust the caliper
so the pads hit the rotor at the same time.
HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID SERVICE

The procedures to change brake fluid vary between
manufacturers. There may also be different techniques for the
same model. In all hydraulic brakes, the concept is to inject Remove bolt clip and unthread pad fixing bolt
new fluid and remove any air bubbles. FIGURE 11.18
The required service tools for brake bleeding can vary with
each brand. The basic component parts of a bleed kit are: a
sealed plastic bottle or syringe to pump fluid into the system,
a mechanism or system to catch waste fluid as it exits, and
hoses and threaded fittings to attach hoses to the caliper and
levers. Acceptable syringes are also available from pet supply
retailers and farm and ranch suppliers. However, if the system
requires threaded fittings, these are often proprietary and it is
best to use the manufacturer’s bleed kit.
SHIMANO® HYDRAULIC BRAKES

Shimano® hydraulic brake systems use a proprietary mineral
fluid. Never use an automotive DOT brake fluid in a system Cotter pin acting as pad retainer
154
Pad return spring is placed between pads Caliper is blocked with 10 mm hex, bleed bottle is in place,
and wrench is attached to nipple
e. If not already done, use a plastic tire lever to push both
pistons into the caliper body. e. Attach bleed tubing to end of bleed nipple at caliper.
f. Place pad return spring between new pads (figure 11.19). Attach bleed bottle or bag to end of tubing to catch
g. Install pads into caliper. Orient eyehole of pads with waste fluid (figure 11.21). Note: It is useful to attach box
caliper pad fixing bolt hole. end of wrench over bleed nipple. Then attach bleed hose.
h. Install and secure pad fixing bolt and any bolt clip. If a This holds wrench to nipple during process of bleed.
cotter pin, install pin and bend longer end of the pin end f. Rotate brake lever on handlebar until top surface of
upwards 90 degrees. reservoir is parallel with the ground.
i. Install wheel and test brake by squeezing lever with g. Clean dirt from lever and wipe around reservoir tank
force. Pull lever repeatedly to push pads to rotor. If lever cover. Unthread screws at reservoir tank cap. Remove
feels soft, system will require bleeding. reservoir cap and bladder.
j. Check pad alignment and adjust as necessary. h. Loosen bleed nipple at caliper body by ⅛−¼ turn.
Gravity will drain fluid from lever down through caliper
Brake Bleeding and out to bleed nipple. Fluid will be captured in bottle
The procedure below outlines a complete fluid change for or bag.
levers with removable reservoir covers. It uses gravity to pull i. Maintain fluid level at reservoir as it drains out bleed
fluid through the system and out the caliper. It will be necessary nipple (figure 11.22). When clean fluid with no bubbles
to arrange a waste collection bottle or bag at the caliper. appears at bleed hose and reservoir is full, close
Procedure for fluid change and brake bleed: bleed nipple. Air may remain trapped in caliper body.
a. Mount bike in repair stand and remove wheels. Encourage any air trapped in caliper or line to rise toward
b. Remove brake pads to avoid contamination by brake fluid. the reservoir by operating lever repeatedly while tapping
c. Rotate bike as necessary until tubing has a continuous caliper and line with a non-metallic lever.
upward slope from the brake caliper to the reservoir FIGURE 11.22
(figure 11.20). Caliper may also be removed from the
frame, as necessary, to achieve as much of a vertical line
as possible from caliper to lever.
d. Install Shimano® caliper block Y8CL18000 in place of
pads. Block provides a stop to pistons when lever is
operated. If this part is not available, substitute a clean
10 mm hex wrench between pistons.
FIGURE 11.20
Keep reservoir filled with fluid at all times

j. Test lever by pulling. Piston should extend but be
stopped by brake block. Lever will eventually become
stiff and firm when pulled. If there is no resistance to
lever, open bleed screw and continue to operate handle.
This will pump more fluid into the system. Maintain fluid
level at reservoir.
k. When lever resistance stiffens, close bleed nipple.
Rotate bike and lever for continuous upward slope Hold lever closed and maintain pressure. Loosen bleed
nipple to open system. Open and close system within Install pad-fitting screw and secure. Install wheel and squeeze
one second, and take notice if any of the expelled fluid lever to bring pistons to rotor.
contains an air bubble. The Magura® caliper brakes bleed from the caliper
l. Release lever. Check reservoir tank and add fluid. upward to the lever. Magura® offers a bleed kit with a two
m.Operate lever repeatedly. If lever feels stiff with syringe system. The first syringe uses flexible tubing with a
resistance at the end of its travel, line contains no air proprietary barbed fitting to push fluid from the caliper to
and is fully bled. If lever feels soft, repeat steps “j” the lever. A second syringe is used for fluid collected at the
through “m.” lever bleed port (“EBT™” screw).
n. Check that reservoir tank is filled to top. Install reservoir Procedure for fluid change and brake bleed:
bladder and cap. Expect some excess fluid to spill from a. Mount bike in repair stand and remove the wheel of
lever. This is normal and ensures no air is below bladder. brake being bled.
Tighten cap screws. b. Set pistons back into caliper body using the Park Tool
o. After bleeding, disconnect hose and bleed bottle or bag PP-1.2 Piston Press or a plastic tire lever.
from bleed nipple. Clean the lever and caliper of any fluid. c. Remove pads from caliper to avoid oil contamination.
p. Install brake pads and wheel. If the brake lever appears d. For front fork calipers, rotate bike so caliper mounting
soft, it is possible to bleed air without a full fluid tabs are vertical. For rear brake, unbolt caliper brake from
change. Air must be purged and fluid level maintained in frame and allow caliper to hang vertically. This places
the reservoir. caliper bleed port screw in its most vertical position.
e. Install a Magura® transfer block inside caliper.
MAGURA® HYDRAULIC CALIPER BRAKES Substitute a 10 mm hex wrench for this block.
The Magura® hydraulic disc calipers use a proprietary Hold block in place with a rubber band or zip tie as
mineral oil called “Magura Royal Blood™.” Do not use DOT necessary. This prevents any movement of the piston
fluids for brake fluid. Do not use syringes or tubing that have during the bleed.
been used with DOT fluids. f. Prepare injection syringe with mineral oil. Pull 25−30 cc
Magura® brake pads should be changed when measured less of brake fluid into syringe, then hold syringe vertically
than 2.5 mm including pad holder. To change pads, remove with fitting upward to allow air to excape. Push plunger
wheel with rotor from frame. Use a piston press such as the Park slowly until only fluid remains in syringe.
Tool PP-1.2 to push pistons back into caliper body (figure 11.23). g. Remove caliper bleed port screw from caliper. Thread and
Remove pad-fitting screw. Pads sit on magnetic studs. secure barbed fitting of syringe filled with fluid.
Remove pads from caliper and install new pads (figure 11.24). h. Remove bleed port screw (EBT™ screw) from brake lever
FIGURE 11.23 using T25 Torx® driver. Pull plunger from second syringe
and insert syringe without plunger into brake lever port
(figure 11.25). Open syringe will act as a brake fluid
catch during bleed.
FIGURE 11.25
Press piston back into caliper body
FIGURE 11.24
Install syringe into bleed port at lever

i. Push fluid syringe at caliper until nearly empty (figure
11.26). Do not fully empty syringe as this may introduce
air into the system. Watch for bubbles appearing in fluid
at lever in the open syringe (figure 11.27).
j. Pull backward on caliper syringe slowly to draw a vacuum
Remove pads by pushing out of caliper body in the brake system. This helps remove any internal air
156
FIGURE 11.26 m.Remove syringe at lever. Use a rag to catch fluid as

syringe is pulled. Install the bleed port screw (EBT™) at
lever and secure.
n. Unthread syringe fitting from caliper and install caliper
bleed port screw.
o. Wipe caliper and lever clean of fluid using alcohol.
p. Remove the block from caliper. Install pads and pad screw.
q. Install wheel and pull lever to move pads to rotor.
r. Lever should feel firm when pulled repeatedly with force.
Repeat bleed as necessary.
HAYES® HYDRAULIC CALIPER BRAKES

The Hayes® hydraulic brake calipers are designed for Post
Mount (PM) systems. Adaptor brackets are used to mount the
caliper to IS (International Standard) mounts. Calipers are
aligned as described in “Hydraulic Brake Caliper Alignment.”
Hayes® hydraulic brakes use only DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake
Push fluid from caliper upward to lever fluid. Never use a mineral oil for this system. The brakes
FIGURE 11.27 bleed from the caliper upward, and the excess fluid exits at
the lever. The Hayes® bleed kit includes bleed fittings for the
lever, small pieces of plastic tubing, and a squeeze bottle. The
bottle permits fluid to be pushed into the system and then
to be sucked back out. This system of pressure followed by
a vacuum helps to clear the system of air. A syringe can be
substituted, but it is necessary to occasionally pull back on
the plunger to flush the system of air. It is necessary to rig
a bleed waste fluid collection bottle at the lever to catch the
DOT fluid.
Hayes® brake pads are held to the pistons with a spring
clip. Inspect caliper body for pad mounting type. If there are
tabs at end of pads, use these to pull pad from body.
To replace pads, remove wheel. Use a piston press such as
the Park Tool PP-1.2 to push pistons back into caliper body.
Use a needle nose pliers when possible (figure 11.29). Note:
Do not use a piston press without the pads in place. Pistons
Bleed syringe collects fluid at the lever use a stud to hold the pads and the press may break this stud.
Alternately push and pull brake fluid to remove air from caliper Use pliers to remove the Hayes® pads
bubbles. Partially squeeze and quickly release lever to If the pads use a tab on the pad plate, use tab to push
encourage any bubble to dislodge and leave system. Do pad toward center of caliper and then pull pad out of caliper
not completely drain syringe at brake lever (figure 11.28). body. If no tabs are present, inspect for a pad-holding screw.
k. Push fluid back through system a second time from Remove screw and push pads from caliper.
caliper syringe toward the lever. Pads are not symmetrical and are marked “inner” and
l. Pull back one last time on the syringe at the caliper to “outer.” Replace outer pad first, using tab to engage spring
draw a vacuum. Do not completely drain fluid from the on to piston stud. Install inner pad. Install wheel and squeeze
syringe at lever. lever repeatedly to bring pads to rotor.
The Hayes® bleed kit contains a bottle for fluid input and FIGURE 11.31
tubing with threaded fittings to fit the various brake lever
models. Find an empty bottle or can to collect waste fluid.
A bent spoke and zip ties can be used to hang bottle from
handlebars during your work. Before beginning the bleed
process, fill the bleed bottle approximately half with Hayes®
brake fluid. Attach the tubing onto the spout of the filling
bottle. It can be useful to use a small zip tie to help secure
tubing to bottle spout. Cut the bleed hose short to maintain
control of bottle during bleed.
Procedure for fluid change and brake bleed:
a. Remove wheel and remove brake pads to avoid contamination.
b. Rotate bike and or bars as necessary so there is an
upward flow from the caliper to the lever bleed screw.
Remove caliper from frame if necessary.
c. Inspect the lever for the bleed screw. Loosen and rotate
lever on the bar as necessary until screw points directly
upward to assist any air bubbles to escape. Leave lever Alternately squeeze and release bottle to draw out air bubbles from caliper
clamp bolts loose enough to rotate lever.
FIGURE 11.32
d. Remove bleed screw from lever and insert bleed hose
fitting. Arrange bleed hose and waste bottle to catch
fluid. Use rags around lever to prevent fluid from getting
on frame or other components.
e. The Hayes® caliper brakes require the pads be removed
before setting the pistons. Use the box end of an 8, 9, or
10 mm wrench over the stud in the piston and push each
piston fully into caliper body (figure 11.30).
FIGURE 11.30
Pull slightly on lever and allow it to snap forward to release bubbles

downward and repeat. Continue until the fluid exiting
the lever appears clear with no bubbles.
j. Close bleed nipple at caliper. Remove caliper bottle
carefully and avoid fluid dripping on the bike or parts.
Clean any spills immediately with soapy water or
isopropyl alcohol.
k. Remove exit hose from lever. Install and secure the lever
bleed screw. Return lever to normal position and secure.
Push piston back using box end of wrench placed over piston stud Clean any spilled fluid all parts with soapy water or
f. Locate bleed nipple on caliper body and remove rubber isopropyl alcohol.
cover. Use a 6 mm box end wrench and fit over bleed nipple. l. Remove piston block and install brake pads.
g. Attach tube from brake fluid squeeze bottle to bleed m.Install wheel and rotor and test lever. The lever will feel
nipple. Loosen bleed nipple ¼ turn. Squeeze bottle loose for a few pumps until the pistons move toward the
firmly for approximately 5 seconds to force fluid into rotor. Lever should then feel firm when pulled with force.
caliper and out the lever bleed port. Relax bottle to draw
any air out of the caliper body. Continue to alternate AVID® HYDRAULIC CALIPER BRAKES
between squeezing bottle for 5 seconds and releasing Avid® caliper brakes are designed for direct mounting post
bottle until no air bubbles come back out of caliper mounts on fork or frame. Adaptor brackets are used when
(figure 11.31). If using a syringe, push fluid in, then mounting to IS mountings. The caliper will mount directly to
draw back slightly to draw any air out of the caliper. post mounts.
h. When no more air bubbles appear to exit at the caliper, Brake pads should be replaced when less than 3 mm or if
continue to squeeze and release the bottle while inspecting the pads become contaminated with oils or brake fluid. To
the exit tubing at the lever. Snap lever closed and open replace pads, remove wheel. Use a piston press such as the
to encourage any trapped air to exit (figure 11.32). Park Tool PP-1.2. Push the pads open to set the pistons back
i. Rotate lever on bar slightly upwards while continuing to into the caliper body. Squeeze tabs at end of pad together and
push fluid through the system. Next rotate lever slightly pull pads outward and away from caliper. If pad return spring
158
FIGURE 11.33 Procedure for fluid change and brake bleed:

a. Remove wheel of brake being bled and remove pads.
Install Avid® brake block. Substitute a 10 mm wide block
such as a hex key if necessary.
b. Check the reach adjustment. Levers set for a long reach
may have the reservoir closed and will not permit
bleeding. Measure from center of handlebar to end of
brake lever tip for no more than 80 mm (figure 11.35).
FIGURE 11.35
Return spring is placed between pads

remains in caliper, push spring out from the top using hex
wrench. Place new pads over pad return spring. Spring should
be sandwiched between new pads (figure 11.33).
Avid® hydraulic disc brake calipers use DOT 4 or DOT 5.1
fluids. Do not use a mineral oil in this system. All models
share the same concept and procedure for bleeding. The Avid
brakes are bled from the caliper up to the lever. It’s best to
use the Avid® bleed kit with their hydraulic brakes. It Adjust reach screw until lever end to bar center is no more than 80 mm
includes two syringes with special threaded fittings, a bottle FIGURE 11.36
of DOT fluid, and an 8 mm crow’s foot in ⅜ inch drive. Store
syringes with tubing clamps open. One syringe is used to push
fluid, and the second is used to catch fluid at the lever.
Before beginning the bleeding procedure, prepare the two
Avid® syringes. Open tubing clamp on the syringe and fill
about ½ full with only Avid® DOT 5.1 fluid. Never substitute
mineral oil. Clamp tubing clip shut. Fill the second syringe
only ¼ full and close tubing clip. Hold syringe vertically
with tip upward and pull gently back on the plunger. This
reduces pressure in the syringe and will cause any air
bubbles to appear in the fluid (figure 11.34). Allow these
to rise to the top and tap the side gently to help dislodge
them. Unclamp tubing and push bubbles out the top. Close Adjust contact adjusting knobs
clamp and repeat process until fluid appears mostly clear on c. If present on lever, set the volume of the caliper
bubbles. This is called “degassing” the fluid. Some very small system with the adjusting knobs. Right-hand lever:
bubbles will always be present and will not be a problem in turn knob completely counterclockwise, then back
the system. clockwise one turn. Left-hand lever: turn knob
Avid® has several models of hydraulic brakes that share the completely clockwise, then back counter-clockwise one
same bleed kit and will be bled with a similar process. The turn (figure 11.36).
Avid® kit is needed to effectively bleed their system. Do not d. Rotate the bike and brake levers as necessary so there is
use other syringes and tubing. an upward flow from the caliper to the lever bleed screw.
Degassing the DOT fluid by purging air Remove bleed port screw at caliper to attach syringe
Loosen brake lever bolts just enough to allow you to FIGURE 11.40
rotate the levers to different angles.
e. Install Avid® caliper piston block. This keeps the pistons
in position. If pistons were to move, the system would
become overfull of brake fluid. If no block is available,
substitute a 10 mm hex key.
f. Select the syringe that is ½ full. Double-check that it
is free of bubbles, and leave tubing clip closed. At the
caliper, remove bleed port screw using a T10 Torx® driver
(figure 11.37). Screw is located in the center of the banjo
bolt that attaches the hose to the caliper. Remove port
screw and secure the syringe into the fitting.
g. Inspect for location of bleed port screw at brake lever.
Remove screw and thread in bleed syringe (¼ full). This Pull and hold lever to handlebar after closing lever syringe clip
syringe will accept the overflow from the caliper syringe j. Pull brake lever to handlebar and secure to bar with toe
during the bleeding process. strap or rubber band (figure 11.40).
h. Open tubing clamp clips on both syringes. Hold lower k. At lower caliper syringe, push plunger gently to
syringe upright to help prevent any air from entering pressurize the system, and then pullback on the plunger.
caliper body (figure 11.38). Push lower syringe plunger Repeat this process three or four times to pressurize
to move fluid through the system and out at lever and then apply a vacuum to the caliper (figure 11.41).
syringe (figure 11.39). Inspect for air bubbles. Inspect Inspect for any air coming back up into syringe. Leave
for dirty or contaminated fluid. Push lower syringe caliper syringe open.
plunger until at least empty of fluid, but do not fully l. Remove strap holding lever, but keep lever to bar by
empty syringe. hand pressure (11.42). Push caliper syringe plunger and
i. Close tubing clip on lever syringe. Leave caliper syringe allow lever to slowly return to relaxed position as fluid is
tubing clip open. pushed at caliper.
Push fluid through caliper toward brake lever Pull back on plunger to create a vacuum
Excess fluid is accepted at the syringe at the lever Release brake lever slowly while pushing caliper syringe
160
m.Close the tubing clip at caliper syringe. Unthread caliper FIGURE 11.44
syringe and reinstall bleed port screw. Clean off any fluid
with alcohol or soapy water.
n. Open tubing clamp of syringe at lever. Pull back on
plunger to create a vacuum, then push plunger. Pull
lever slightly and allow it to snap back to help purge any
bubble remaining in lever body (figure 11.43). Repeat
this process 10 times or until no more bubbles appear in
the tubing.
FIGURE 11.43
Remove pad fixing screw
FIGURE 11.45
Push and pull repeatedly at lever to clear lever of air

o. Push the plunger gently as lever syringe is unthreaded Remove pads from caliper body
from lever. Remove the syringe and install the bleed d. Push pads from the top of the caliper body (figure
port screw. Clean up any spilled fluid with alcohol or 11.45). Pads will exit on opposite side of body. Note
soapy water. position of pad return spring between pads.
p. Install pads and install wheel. e. Install the brake pads with the reverse procedure. Place
q. Pull lever to bring pistons to the rotor. Lever should feel pad return spring between pads. Push pads up into
firm when pulled with force. Repeat bleed if necessary. caliper and install pad-retaining screw. Secure screw.
Empty syringes into appropriate container and store Procedure for fluid change and brake bleed:
syringes with clamps open. a. Hold bike in repair stand and rotate bike so there is an
uphill path from caliper body to lever. Remove wheel and
TEKTRO® HYDRAULIC CALIPER BRAKES remove brake pads from caliper.
Tektro® offers several brake models and all share common b. Rotate brake lever so lever reservoir is parallel with
bleeding procedures. Tektro® uses a mineral oil as the brake ground (figure 11.46). Use the split below the reservoir
fluid. Never use a DOT fluid or syringes used for DOT fluid lid as a reference line when aligning. Aligning level will
with this system. The Tektro® bleed kit includes a syringe to put the port screw at the highest point.
push fluid from the caliper to the lever. The fluid exits at a c. Remove bleed port screw from top of reservoir lid using a
port screw at the lever. Tektro® provides a hollow M6 threaded T15 driver (figure 11.47).
fitting on a hole to for the waste fluid to cleanly exit. Flexible FIGURE 11.46
tubing that is ³⁄₁₆ inch diameter can be substituted for the
threaded fitting, however, expect some spillage of the fluid at
the lever. The caliper fitting uses ¼ inch tubing.
While the system can be bled with brake pads in place, it
is best to remove pads to avoid any chance of contamination
with the brake fluid.
Procedure for pad removal:
a. Remove rear wheel.
b. Reset piston back into caliper body using the Park Tool
PP-1.2 or a thin tire lever.
c. Remove piston retaining screw from outside side of
caliper body. Screw passes through both brake pad plates
and the pad return spring (figure 11.44). Adjust lever so reservoir cap is flat to the ground
FIGURE 11.47 upward to allow any small bubbles in the syringe to float
to the top.
g. Open the bleed fitting counter-clockwise ⅛−¼ turn and
press syringe to flow brake fluid upward to the lever and
waste bottle. Push slowly and evenly. Keep syringe
upright to prevent any bubbles in the syringe from
entering the caliper (figure 11.50).
FIGURE 11.50
Remove bleed port screw
FIGURE 11.48
Push fluid after opening up bleed nipple
FIGURE 11.51
Brake fluid will bleed into waste bottle

d. Attach bleed tubing to lever reservoir lid. Tektro® bleed
fitting will screw into lever (figure 11.48). Alternatively,
insert ³⁄₁₆ inch tubing into hole. Place other end of waste Push fluid after opening up bleed nipple
tubing into a bottle or can fitted to hang off handlebars. h. Continue pushing until the syringe is near empty. Watch
e. Attach hose to syringe and fill syringe with at the exit hose for any signs of air bubbles, debris or
approximately 15 ml of mineral based brake fluid. Note: discolored fluid (figure 11.51).
Excess hose at syringe makes bleeding difficult. Trim i. Retighten the bleed fitting at the caliper body. Secure
hose to about 3−4 cm in length. Fill syringe at least half fitting to equivalent of 4−7 Nm. Remove syringe from bleed
full of fluid (figure 11.49). nipple. Replace any rubber cover on the bleed nipple.
f. The caliper has a bleed screw fitting that uses a 7 mm j. Remove bleed hose from lever. Drip a drop or two of fluid
wrench. Place the box end of a 7 mm wrench over the into the hole at the reservoir cover and install screw.
fitting and then attach the syringe hose. Hold syringe Secure until snug, only to 2−4 Nm.
FIGURE 11.49 k. Clean any excess fluid on caliper or lever with isopropyl
alcohol or soapy water.
l. Reinstall brake pads. Reinstall wheel and test caliper
brake. One first pull lever may depress more as the pads
move to the rotor. Repeated pulling should feel firm with
no softness. Any air in the line will show as a mushy
feeling in the lever pull.
MECHANICAL DISC BRAKE SYSTEMS

Mechanical disc calipers use a wire brake cable from the
hand lever that attaches to a lever arm on the caliper body.
This lever arm is rotated to push the brake pads to the rotor.
The most common mechanical designs have one pad fixed
Pull brake fluid from bottle, filling syringe half full (non-moving) and one pad moving. The moving pad is the
162
outboard pad (the pad furthest from the spokes), and it Procedure for mechanical disc caliper alignment:
pushes the rotor to flex it over until it contacts the non- a. Install and route inner wire and housing to caliper. Pull
moving inboard pad (the pad close to the spokes). Mechanical slack from cable and secure cable pinch bolt. Cut cable
calipers typically operate with wider clearances between pads end short enough so that is does not contact frame,
and rotor. Because there is flex in the housing and brake caliper, or adaptor.
cable, the mechanical caliper brakes are not as efficient as the b. Loosen caliper mounting bolts to permit lateral
hydraulic systems. movement of caliper body.
c. Inspect caliper body for pad adjusting screws that move
BRAKE LEVER pads in caliper body. There may be an adjusting screw
Flat handlebar brake levers used with mechanical disc or knob on inner or outer faces of body. However, some
calipers are compatible with the linear-pull rim caliper brakes. models have only one pad adjusting screw at the inner pad.
The lever should be set for a comfortable reach from the saddle. Calipers with outer and inner pad adjusting knobs:
Prepare brake housing and cable as with rim caliper brakes. Turn outer pad adjustment clockwise one turn from
Drop bar brakes typically do not pull the same amount of being fully out. Turn inner pad adjusting screw in
cable as the disc-compatible flat bar lever. The common drop clockwise until pads lock against rotor. Secure each
bar lever requires the use of road compatible calipers. If drop mounting bolt. Loosen each adjustment screw/knob
bar levers are used with calipers designed for the linear-pull ¼−½ turn and check pad. Turn adjusting screw(s) in
lever, it will require a mechanical pulley system, such as the or out to adjust pad clearance for 0.2−0.4 mm on each
Travel Agent™, which leverages the amount of cable pull side of the rotor. This is approximately the thickness
(figure 11.52). These devices allow the use of non-long travel of the average business card.
levers, such as many road levers, with mechanical disc brakes. Calipers with only inner pad adjusting knob:
FIGURE 11.52 Turn inner pad adjust clockwise until it locks against
rotor, then turn back approximately ¼ turn. Squeeze
lever to lock rotor. This moves outer pad to rotor and
positions body laterally (figure 11.54). Secure each
caliper mounting bolt and release lever.
d. Inspect pad alignment to rotor. Pads should appear
parallel to rotor. To fine-tune, loosen one bolt at a
time to allow the caliper to move slightly to fine-tune
alignment (figure 11.55).
FIGURE 11.54
Travel Agent™ pulley system
CALIPER PAD ALIGNMENT AND CLEARANCE

Most mechanical disc calipers share a common alignment
procedure. The caliper body is mounted to either post
mounts on the frame/fork or to an adaptor bracket. On most
mechanical calipers, only one pad moves to the rotor. The
rotor is flexed as it spins and is pushed over to press against
a non-moving pad. The caliper body can be adjusted laterally
over the rotor (figure 11.53). Position caliper and pads over rotor
Lateral adjustments on caliper body Caliper must rotate counter-clockwise over rotor for better alignment
e. Test brake by pulling lever. Adjust feel by adjusting both Tektro® brand pads are made with a wear indicator. A
pad adjustment screws in or out, if present. For models circular hole in the pad will appear as the pad thins and
with only inner pad adjustment, use barrel adjuster on requires replacement. Pads are held in place with a pad fixing
cable housing to move outer pad in or out. screw (figure 11.57). Remove wheel and pad fixing screw. Push
As pads wear with braking, use both pad adjusting screws, if pads and pad return spring from caliper. Some models will use
available, to move pad pistons closer to rotor. If both pads have a magnet in the piston and have no return spring. To remove
an adjusting screw, tighten both sides. If only one adjusting these pads, use tab on pad and lift pad away from stud on
screw is available, tighten that screw. However, use care when piston. Pull pad out.
using the adjusting barrel or cable pinch bolt to account for
pad wear. Caliper arm may bottom out on caliper body as it HAYES® MECHANICAL DISC BRAKES
articulates and prevent the pads from pressing on rotor. Hayes® recommends a pad to rotor clearance of about
0.4−0.5 mm. To replace pads, remove wheel. Use tab on
SHIMANO® MECHANICAL DISC BRAKES pad plate and pull outer pad first toward center and pull
The Shimano® mechanical calipers align laterally as outward from caliper body. Pads are not symmetrical. Match
described above in “Caliper Pad Alignment and Clearance.” replacement pad to old pad from caliper. Replace outer pad
Shimano® recommends pad clearance of 0.2−0.4 mm on each first, using tab to engage spring onto piston stud (figure
side of the rotor. 11.58). Install inner pad. Loosen pad adjusting screw(s),
The pads of the Shimano caliper are held in place with a install wheel, and set clearance to rotor. Some models use a
pad fixing screw. Replace pads when pad material is less than magnetic pad holder without stud or clip system.
0.5 mm thick, not including pad holder. To replace pads, remove FIGURE 11.58
wheel and then remove any clip at end of pad screw and remove
screw (figure 11.56). Push pads and pad return spring out from
caliper body. Install new pads with new pad return spring into
caliper body. Install and secure pad fixing screw and install clip
if present. Install wheel and adjust new pads to rotor.
TEKTRO® MECHANICAL DISC BRAKES

Tektro® mechanical calipers align laterally as described
above in “Caliper Pad Alignment and Clearance.” Tektro®
recommends a 0.3 mm clearance from each pad to the rotor.
FIGURE 11.56
Hayes® pad and pad tabs used for removal
AVID® MECHANICAL DISC BRAKES

Avid® disc caliper brakes use a ball-and-socket system for
the caliper mounting bolts. This fixing system is similar to
many brake pads on linear-pull caliper rim brakes (figure
11.59). The caliper body can move laterally as other brands but
will also allow vertical rotation of the pad face to the rotor.
Both the inner and outer pads of the Avid® brake can
be adjusted for clearance with pad adjusting knobs (figure
11.60). The moving outer pad flexes the rotor toward the
Remove pad fixing screw to remove pads fixed inner pad when the brake is operated. The dials use an
Tektro® pads and pad fixing screw Ball and socket system for caliper alignment to rotor
164
Pad adjusting knob move pad position relative to rotor Pull slack from cable but do not move caliper arm
indented “click” system, with one complete revolution moving pad adjusting knob approximately ½ turn counter-
the pad approximately 1 mm. clockwise. Inner pad (fixed pad) to rotor gap should
The Avid® caliper design is to have the inner pad-to-rotor appear larger than the outer pad to rotor gap.
gap about twice as large as the outer pad-to-rotor gap (figure i. Squeeze lever to test caliper brake. Adjust lever
11.61). It can be difficult to measure and achieve this ratio, modulation setting by moving pads inward or outward
but the brake will still perform even if the ratio does not from rotor by using both pad adjusting knobs. To
achieve this exact proportion. maintain the 2:1 ratio, turn the fixed pad adjusting knob
FIGURE 11.61 twice as many clicks as the moving pad adjusting knob.
For example, if a looser modulation is desired, turn the
inner pad adjusting knob counter-clockwise four clicks
and the outer pad adjusting knob counter-clockwise only
two clicks.
The caliper-actuating arm is designed to operate from a
fully open position. Set cable tension at the adjusting barrel
so actuating arm is fully opened or returned. Do not use the
brake lever adjusting barrel or cable pinch bolt to account for
pad wear. Caliper arm may bottom out on caliper body and
prevent the pads from pressing on rotor.
As pads wear, use pad adjusting knobs to move pads closer
to rotor. Turn the fixed pad adjusting knob clockwise twice
Gap from fixed pad to rotor should be larger than as many clicks as the moving pad adjusting knob to maintain
gap from moving pad to rotor the 2:1 ratio of pad-to-rotor spacing. For example, if the inner
Procedure for pad alignment: (fixed) pad adjusting knob is turned clockwise two clicks, turn
a. If the caliper is attached to an adaptor bracket, check the outer (moving) pad adjusting knob clockwise one click.
that the bracket is fully secured to the frame or fork. Brake pads should be removed and replaced if the pad
b. Loosen caliper-mounting bolts so the caliper is loose on thickness, including the metal holder, is less than 3 mm.
bracket or post mounts. Procedure for pad removal and replacement:
c. Slacken cable with adjusting barrel or loosen brake wire a. Remove the wheel.
pinch bolt if it is secured. b. Loosen each pad adjustment knob an equal amount.
d. Check that both pad adjusting knob dials are turned fully c. Squeeze tabs at end of pad together and pull pads
counter-clockwise to move pads fully away from rotor. FIGURE 11.63
Turn the outer pad adjusting knob approximately ½ turn
clockwise.
e. Turn the inner pad adjusting knob clockwise until inner
pad fully secures and locks rotor. This aligns caliper body
and pads to rotor face.
f. Snug each caliper-mounting bolt. Alternate turns to
tighten one bolt and then the other until both are
fully secure.
g. Draw slack from the brake wire and secure pinch bolt.
Do not allow caliper arm to move upward when drawing
slack from brake (figure 11.62).
h. Set pad clearance. Loosen outer pad adjusting knob
approximately ¼ turn counter-clockwise. Loosen inner Push pad tab to center of caliper body and lift to remove
outward and away from caliper (figure 11.63). If pad Installation lever is set asymmetrically on pad. Align
return spring remains in caliper, push spring out from bridge of spring with caliper boss locators.
the top using hex wrench. f. Gently squeeze return spring and pads. Engage pads into
d. Note orientation of pad return spring and remove spring caliper body. Pad installation lever orients away from
from pads. brace bolts. Push return spring and pads into place (figure
e. Place new pads over pad return spring (figure 11.64). 11.65). Pad locator will engage bosses in caliper boss.
Spring should be sandwiched between new pads. g. Install wheel.
Place spring between pads Push pads into caliper body
166
12 Caliper rim brake systems
Caliper rim brake systems
CHAPTER 12 CALIPER RIM BRAKE SYSTEMS
C aliper rim brakes are mechanisms attached to the frame

and fork that apply pressure to the wheel rim. Force
is applied to the rim by the pads, which converts the
momentum of the bicycle and rider to heat and slows them.
apply the brakes. Brake levers may be rotated on the bar by
loosening the clamp-fixing bolt.
Upright bar levers commonly have a setscrew in the
lever body that controls the lever’s position relative to the
The caliper rim brake system includes the brake lever, cables handlebar grip, which may be called lever reach. Lever reach
and housing, brake caliper, brake pads, and wheel rim. is set according to the rider’s hand size and riding style.
Disc brake systems use a rotor attached to the hub and Tighten the setscrews to bring the levers toward the grip to
a caliper attached to the frame or fork. These brakes are accommodate smaller hands or shorter fingers. Changing this
discussed in Chapter 11, Caliper Disc Brake Systems. setting will cause a change in the brake cable adjustment.
Braking systems should provide more than an emergency Upright bar levers typically allow for easy installation of
stop. Properly adjusted brakes give the user subtle control and the cable end into the cable anchor of the lever. Pull the lever
modulation of speed and bike handling. Many small details and inspect for the cable end anchor, which is typically a
affect the control of the bike, including the placement of the hole for the cable end with a slot for the cable to exit to the
levers, how the cable system is installed, and the alignment of cable housing. Inspect also for slots in the adjusting barrel.
the brake pads. Align the slots and then slip the cable end into the anchor
This chapter will review “cantilever,” “linear-pull,” “dual- hole. Engage the brake cable between the slots in the barrel
pivot,” and “side-pull” rim brakes. For service of other adjuster (figure 12.2).
systems, such as “U-brakes” and center pull calipers, see FIGURE 12.2
Repair Help at www.parktool.com.
BRAKE LEVERS
There are two basic types of brake levers: the upright bar
brake lever and the drop bar brake lever. Brake levers are
fitted to handlebars with a clamp. The muscular force of the
hand is leveraged by the lever to pull the cable and transfer
this force to the brake pads. It is a common error for newer
riders to want an overly tight brake setting. Rim brake
calipers generally should not be set so tight that a mere touch
of the lever results in the pads striking the rim. The hand is
not in a good position to apply power to the lever when the
brakes are set too tight at the rim. Use slots in lever body to engage and disengage cable end
Brake levers are designed to pull a certain amount of
UPRIGHT HANDLEBAR BRAKE LEVERS brake cable as the lever is squeezed. The distance from the
Upright compatible brake levers are designed for a 22.2 mm cable head pivot and anchor to the lever pivot determines
flat handlebar end diameter. Position upright handlebar brake the amount of brake cable pulled. Linear-pull or “long
levers so they are easy and comfortable to reach. Levers will travel” brakes require more cable be pulled by the lever, and
also move laterally along the handlebar. They are commonly compatible brake levers will have a greater distance between
positioned close to the grips and outboard of separate clamp cable end and lever pivot (approximately 30 mm or more).
type shift levers. Cantilever caliper levers will have a relatively shorter distance
Upright handlebar (flat bar) brake levers should be rotated (29 mm or less). Although levers for linear-pull type brakes
so they are aligned with the rider’s arms as the rider sits on pull more cable, they pull with less force compared to levers
the saddle and holds the bar grips. A common standard is to for cantilever brakes.
set the lever at 45 degrees downward slope from horizontal
(figure 12.1). This avoids excessively bending the wrist to DROP BAR BRAKE LEVERS
FIGURE 12.1 Drop bar brake levers may be moved up or down the curve
of the bar for easier reach. Moving the lever down on the bar
curve makes the levers easier to reach while riding in the
drops. Moving the lever upward on the curve allow for an easier
reach when riding on the top portion of the bars. Handlebar
tape must be removed to move the levers up or down.
Drop bar brake levers usually use a metal strap to pull
the brake lever body tight to the handlebar. The handlebar
diameter of drop bars is larger than the diameter of flat bars,
and brake levers are not compatible between the two.
The bolt or nut to tighten the brake lever strap may be
inside the lever body or hidden under the rubber hood
covering of the body. It may be necessary to pull the cover up
Rotate levers for comfortable reach in order to insert the hex wrench when tightening the strap
170
CALIPER RIM BRAKE SYSTEMS CHAPTER 12
Top: brake cable end for upright bar lever

Bottom: brake cable end for drop bar lever
FIGURE 12.6
Adjust lever height along hook of drop bar

(figure 12.3). The drop bar brake lever should be tight to the
handlebar. The user effectively uses the lever body as a “bar
extension” when riding on the tops of the levers. If the levers
were to move during use, it could result in a crash.
The brake cable ends interlock with the cable anchor in the
lever. Pull the brake lever fully down and inspect inside. The
anchor will have a socket fitting for the cable. The common
aero-style lever will have a hole in the lever for the cable end
(figure 12.4). Feed the cut end of the cable into the socket
first and route it out the back of the lever body. Pull the cable
and check that the end is fully seated into the anchor. The Common brake housing, with cut away to show inner support coiled wire
brake housing is fitted through the back of the lever body. Brake housing connects the brake levers to the bike
FIGURE 12.4 and allows the cable to bend around corners on the way
to the brake caliper. Wound-type brake housing is made
of a plastic liner tube around which support wire is
wound like a coil. It is then covered by plastic to help
prevent rust (figure 12.6). Wound housing differs from
the compressionless shift cable housing used on derailleur
systems. Compressionless shift housing will not hold up to
the higher stresses of braking.
“Braided” or “woven” housing is acceptable for either brake
or indexing shift housing (figure 12.7). The outer support
wires are woven in a mesh around the liner. This housing is
especially effective on systems that seem to have excessive
amounts of flex from coiled housing. Housing flex is felt as
Insert brake cable from front of lever “sponginess” or “softness” in the lever pull.
FIGURE 12.7
CABLE SYSTEM
The cable system is made of the brake cable and cable
housing, connecting the brake lever to the caliper. The brake
cable is made of multiple strands of wire and a metal fitting,
usually called a “cable end,” on one end that sits in the lever.
Brake cables are often sold with two ends, and the type of
cable end not required is cut off. The brake cable end sits in
the brake lever, and the other end of the cable is bolted to
the caliper arm. Upright bar levers use a round, disc-shaped
end about 7 mm (⁹⁄₃₂ inch) in diameter. Drop bar levers use a
“mushroom” or “tear-drop” shaped end (figure 12.5). Brake
cables have a minimum diameter of 1.5 mm (¹⁄₁₆ inch), which
is larger than derailleur cables. Braided or woven housing used for both braking and shifting
Articulated housing used for both braking and shifting Housing passes housing stop, indicating housing is too long
“Articulated housing” uses small tubular segments strung enter straight into the housing stops (figure 12.9). If the
together over a plastic liner (figure 12.8). Articulated housing housing is too long, it will bend past an imaginary line
may be used for both brake housing and indexing shift created by the housing stop (figure 12.10). If it is too short,
housing. The pieces of housing are pieced together much like it will create kinks or severe bends. If it is likely the stem
beads on a string for the correct length. and bars are to be raised in the future, leave the housing
Replace housing if it has become twisted, rusty, split, or somewhat longer than the ideal length at the brake levers.
if it is too short. It is a good idea to replace housing if it is If the old housing was an acceptable length, cut new
simply old, as there is a plastic tube inside the wound housing housing to the same length. If in doubt, cut housing
which becomes dirty and worn with use. longer and insert into stops, then inspect and cut shorter
as required. For wound housing, cut with diagonal pliers
CABLE LUBRICATION (preferred) or with cable cutters. Bend brake housing where
To prevent rust and to ensure smooth operation, apply a you wish to cut to open the wound coil (figure 12.11).
light lubricant to the brake cable where it passes through Wound housing is made of a single coiled wire. Cutting this
the housing. If the frame housing stops have a split, the wire tends to leave a sharp end or burr. The burr should be
housing and brake cable can be released from the stops for filed or ground smooth so the housing end is perpendicular to
easier lubrication. the length of housing (figure 12.12).
Release the brake caliper quick-release to relax the cable FIGURE 12.11
tension. Pull the housing back and out of the stop. Slide the
housing back to expose the cable. Wipe the cable clean with a
rag and lubricate. Reinstall housing into the stops. Close the
caliper quick-release.
If removing the housing from the stops is not possible,
rotate the bike so lubrication can be dripped down the brake
cable into the housing. Some housing systems use an external
liner to cover the entire length of cable from lever to caliper.
Do not lubricate the cable in these systems.
CABLE HOUSING LENGTH

When replacing housing, consider the housing length.
Generally, housing should be as short as possible yet still Flex the wound-type housing to open coils for side cutters
Housing enters stop in a straight line, indicating a good length File brake coil smooth to eliminate burr from side cutters
172
FIGURE 12.13 The brake cable is fixed to the rim caliper arm by a plate and
bolt. The brake cable is pulled with great force by the hand
lever and must not slip in the pinch bolt (figure 12.15). The
brake cable will flatten with proper torque on the pinch bolt.
Brake housing is often routed through a “barrel adjuster,”
fitted either at the brake lever or at the caliper arm (figure
12.16). This is a hollow threaded bolt that is turned in or out
to effectively shorten or lengthen the housing. Unscrewing
the barrel out of, or away, from the lever body or caliper will
effectively lengthen the housing and draw the brake pads
closer to the rim. Screwing the barrel into, or toward, the
lever body or caliper arm will shorten the housing and allow
the pads to come away from the rim.
Various styles of housing end caps If the brake cable is frayed or sliced anywhere between
Woven or braided housing is cut with cable cutters as is the lever and the cable pinch bolt at the derailleur, it should
compressionless shift housing. However, articulated housing be replaced. Even the failure of a single strand of wire will
is shortened similar to shortening a beaded string. Pieces are eventually lead to a complete cable break (figure 12.17).
removed and the inner plastic liner cut with scissors. FIGURE 12.16
Housing end caps should be used whenever they fit. The
end cap will only improve the fit into a cable stop. However, if
an end cap will not fit into a brake cable stop, the cap is not
necessary. End caps are available in different designs (figure
12.13). The end diameters vary to better mate with frame
fittings, and some may have extensions for protective liners.
After a brake cable is installed and the brake adjusted, the
excess cable should be cut using a cable cutter, such as the Park
Tool CN-10. The cutting jaws surround the cut, and shear the
wires. Leave approximately 3−4 cm (1.5−2 inches) wire length
past the pinch bolt. After cutting the brake cable, use a cable
end cap crimped to the end to prevent fraying (figure 12.14).
Adjusting barrel on a dual-pivot rim brake
FIGURE 12.14
FIGURE 12.17
Use a cable end cap to prevent fraying of wires

Inspect and replace cables with broken wire
FIGURE 12.15
CALIPER RIM BRAKES
Note: When rim calipers are discussed in this chapter,
“right” and “left” will be from the mechanic’s point of view,
not the rider’s point of view. In other words, the left caliper
arm of the front brake is the left one as seen when standing
in front the bike. On the other hand, the left caliper arm of
the rear brake is the one on the left side of the bike while
standing behind the bike.
The design of the brake caliper will determine how the brake
pads are adjusted. Most caliper arms swing the pad on an arc
as it approaches the rim. Certain caliper types swing the pad
Pinch bolt and flattened brake cable downward as it moves toward the rim. Other types move the pad
This pad moves in a downward arc as it swing toward the rim Pull cartridge pad toward back to remove pad from holder
upward as it moves toward the rim. Before adjusting pads, begin FIGURE 12.21
by determining the basic type of caliper used. Move the caliper
arm and watch how the pads move toward rim (figure 12.18).
BRAKE PADS
Brake pads wear with use and will require replacement.
Some pads are made with a “wear line,” which indicates the
need for replacement. Age will also harden pad material
and make it less effective. It is not uncommon for small
amounts of aluminum from the rim-braking surface to become
embedded in the pad. Inspect the brake pad and remove
pieces of grit and foreign material as necessary using a pick
or small screwdriver. Pads that are aligned too low on a rim,
toward the hub, will develop a lip or edge. This lip makes Off-center brake pad mounting stud
correct alignment impossible (figure 12.19). It is common for some cantilever and linear-pull caliper
FIGURE 12.19 brake pads to have the mounting stud placed off-center,
so one end of the pad is longer (figure 12.21). Look for
the manufacturer’s marking for direction of rim rotation or
marking for “front” or “back” pad.
Brake Pad Alignment

Rim caliper pad adjustments depend upon the wheel being
centered in the frame. A misaligned wheel will affect both pad
centering and pad placement on the rim, and it is important
that the wheel be centered before beginning pad adjustments
(figure 12.22).
A wheel can be misaligned from simply being placed in the
frame incorrectly. Loosen quick-release or axle nuts and pull
Worn pad showing signs of low placement on rim wheel fully into dropouts. It is also possible the wheel rim is
Replacement pads should be compatible with the type of not properly centered over the hub. As a test, flip the wheel
caliper. There are many after-market pads available from FIGURE 12.22
all-around use to pads for wet conditions or specific rim
compounds. Choose a pad set that meets your needs as a
rider. A relatively soft pad, for example, will generally give
high performance but will wear quickly.
Brake pads may be replaced as an entire unit with the pad
material and pad holder and fastener in one piece. Some
pad systems use a “cartridge pad” holder that allows for the
pad material to be changed. The pad holder and fastener are
reused in these systems. To replace cartridge pads, inspect for
and remove any screw or clip retaining the pad. Pull on the
pad backwards, away from the rim rotation direction (figure
12.20). Install new pad by pushing it into holder and reinstall
any retaining screw or clip. Misaligned wheel off to mechanic’s left
174
around left to right and inspect again. If the centering is good, FIGURE 12.24
wheel centering will look the same either way. A wheel may
be purposely “misdished” to correct for minor frame or fork
misalignment. It is also possible the frame or fork was made
with the left and right dropouts at slightly different heights.
An effective solution for an off-center fork or frame is
simply to hold the wheel centered when installing it, and
then close the skewer tightly (or tighten axle nuts) to hold
the wheel in place. Some frames have dropouts that have
enough material to allow filing to effectively raise one
dropout. Consult a professional mechanic.
Brake pads are mounted to the caliper arms and are
adjustable in several directions. There are four basic aspects
to pad alignment: vertical height alignment, tangential Top image showing proper tangent alignment. Front and back edges of pad
alignment, vertical face alignment, and pad toe. Not every are square with rim. Lower image is improperly set with rear edge too low.
brand or model of brake caliper has every adjustment, and FIGURE 12.25
sometimes it is necessary to compromise when setting pads.
Vertical Height Alignment

This is the alignment up and down relative to the rim-
braking surface, which is the flat vertical section of rim. View
caliper face-on and move the arms while watching the pads
move to the rim. If the pad moves on an arc moving down, set
pads near the upper edge of the rim-braking surface (figure
12.23). If the pad travels upward toward the rim, set pads
near the lower edge of the rim-braking surface. As the brake
pad wears, it gets thinner and tends to move further upward
or downward along its arc. Do not set pads so high that they
strike the tire at any time or so low that they are below the Vertical faces of both pads are misaligned to rim braking surface
braking surface. have an adjustment for vertical face alignment. Many side-
FIGURE 12.23 pull and dual-pivot caliper pads do not allow for vertical
alignment. These pads will simply wear in with use or they
can be sanded or filed to shape.
Pad Toe
This is the alignment of the pad angle as it touches the
rim viewed from above the rim. Toe, often called “toe-in” or
“toeing,” refers to setting the pad so its front or leading edge
strikes first, with a slight gap of 0.25 mm to 1 mm at the
back or trailing edge of the pad (figure 12.26). Toe helps to
reduce squeal during braking.
Caliper arms have play in the pivots. Additionally, the
brake caliper flexes with the wheel movement when the brake
Pad on left is set at top of rim braking surface, while pad on right is applied. This creates a back and forth “slip and stick”
is at bottom of rim braking surface
FIGURE 12.26
Tangential Alignment
This is the alignment of the pad tilt viewed from the side.
The front and back of the pad should be even on the rim. One
side should not be higher or lower than the other side (figure
12.24). Use care when tightening the pad fixing bolt and hold
the brake pad to keep it from rotating.
Vertical Face Alignment

This is the alignment of the brake pad face relative to the
rim’s vertical surface. The vertical face of the pad should be
set parallel to the face of the braking surface as it strikes the
rim (figure 12.25). Most cantilever and linear-pull calipers Toe seen in the pad adjustment (arrow shows direction or rim rotation)
phenomenon as the pads are first pulled forward and then FIGURE 12.28
spring backward. The effect is much like that of a bow on a
violin string. The result is “harmonic resonance” or squealing if
the vibrations are within the range of human hearing. Caliper
systems that are more rigid tend to flex less and that results in
less audible squealing. Generally, less toe angle is better than
more for brake performance. Too much angle will exacerbate
brake caliper flex without providing braking force to the pads.
Some brake pad systems allow toe adjustment in the
pad-fixing bolt. Side-pull and dual-pivot caliper arms can
sometimes be bent slightly for pad toe. However, if the caliper
arm is relatively thick or difficult to bend, toe may be cut
into the pad with a file. It is simplest to first test ride the
bike and see if toe is even required. The linear-pull caliper brake
Linear-pull calipers move the pads in an arc moving
LINEAR-PULL CALIPER ADJUSTMENT downward toward the low side of the rim. Pads should be set
Both linear-pull and cantilever caliper arms attach to high vertically on the rim but without interfering with the
separate frame or fork pivots located below the rim surface on tire. Pad height will lower as pad face wears.
either side of the wheel. Pivot studs are commonly bolted to Linear-pull brake pads often use a washer system to set
the frame or fork. For steel frames and forks, the studs may caliper arm position to the rim. Push both arms together until
be “brazed-on” to the tubing. The studs are nominally 16 mm pads are touching rim and view caliper arms. Arms should be
long and 8 mm in diameter, with an internal thread for a M6 close to parallel with one another. If arms are forming a wide
mounting bolt. Grease the surface of the stud before installing “V,” swap the wide spacers inside the caliper for the narrower
the calipers. The cantilever should pivot freely when the spacers outside the caliper. If the arms tilt inward when the
mounting bolt is secure. Overtightening may damage the stud pads are striking the rim, swap the narrow spacers inside the
fitting and cause the caliper to stick. calipers for the wider spacers outside the calipers (figure 12.29).
There may be several spring hole options in the brake caliper Some models of the Shimano® XTR®, Deore XT®, and Deore
as well as in frame braze-on (figure 12.27). Mount left and right LX® brakes use a moving parallelogram for the pad-to-rim
caliper springs into mirror image holes. Spring hole options motion. These are called V-Brakes® and differ in pad placement
allow changes in spring tension. Generally, select the middle from other linear-pull models. A linkage system allows the
option and move both sides symmetrically if changing tension. FIGURE 12.29
FIGURE 12.27
Move wide spacer to outboard side of caliper to narrow arms

Brake stud and spring mounting holes for linear-pull or cantilever brake
FIGURE 12.30
Linear-pull brakes share many similarities with cantilever
brake designs. The caliper arms pivot on frame- or fork-
mounted studs at one end and are pulled by the brake cable
at the other end. However, there is no straddle wire as with
cantilevers. The primary cable from the brake lever passes
through a metal cable-housing stop called a “noodle.” The
noodle is fitted to one arm, and the cable attaches to the
second arm. Pulling the brake lever pulls the arms together
and forces the pads onto the rim-braking surface.
Linear-pull brakes and Shimano® V-Brakes® are common
on many mountain bikes and hybrid bikes (figure 12.28).
The caliper arm shares the same frame mounting system
with cantilevers. Linkage system of Shimano® V-brake system
176
pads to move straight toward the rim, not on an arc. The pad thread. Install rubber band shim at back edge of pad
is mounted to a moving plate attached to the caliper arm with (figure 12.32). This creates a temporary shim to add toe
a linkage system (figure 12.30). Set pad height to strike in the to back edge of pad.
middle of rim braking surface for these caliper brakes. e. Push caliper arm to rim and view pad alignment. If practical,
Linear-pull calipers, like cantilevers, are attached to the unhook spring from arm to make alignment easier. Set pads
frame or fork at the braze-ons. Grease the outer surface of for correct position relative to rim in four basic alignments:
each braze-on before installing the calipers. Secure mounting Height: with pad close to top edge of braking surface.
bolts. The caliper arm should pivot freely. Overtightening may Tangent: with front and back edge even to rim.
damage the fitting and cause the caliper to stick. Vertical face: with pad face and rim parallel.
Most models of linear-pull calipers use a threaded stud Toe: with slight gap at trailing edge of pad. A rubber
brake pad. A threaded bolt is fixed into the pad. The bolt is band can act as a shim to hold the back of the pad
located in the caliper arm by a series of convex and concave out slightly.
washers. This “ball and socket” system allows the bolt and pad f. Tighten pad nut and remove rubber band. Inspect pad
to move in the caliper arm for toe and vertical face alignment alignment again.
(figure 12.31). To change pad angle, loosen the bolt and move g. Repeat pad adjustment on other side of caliper.
pad to desired position. Hold pad while securing nut/bolt. h. Pull cable slack through pinch bolt mechanism. Do not
FIGURE 12.31 pull cable overly tight if using a fourth hand tool such
as the Park Tool BT-2. Secure cable pinch bolt fully. Cable
should flatten when pinch bolt is tight.
i. Squeeze lever hard several times to test pinch mechanism
and to settle cable and housing. Set pad clearance at
lever for rider preference by using the barrel adjuster. If
barrel adjuster is screwed all the way into lever body and
brake lever is still too tight, loosen brake cable pinch
bolt and allow slack to feed through pinch plate. Tighten
pinch bolt and test again and adjust as necessary.
j. Inspect pad centering to rim. Use setscrew on sides of
caliper to center pads to rim. Tighten setscrew on arm
with pad that is closest to rim (figure 12.33).
Ball and socket system of threaded brake pad k. Inspect to ensure that pads are not rubbing tire. Readjust
Procedure for linear-pull caliper and pad adjustment: if necessary.
a. Attach brake cable to brake lever and feed through If the linear-pull caliper uses smooth stud brake pads, the
barrel adjuster and housing. Feed cable through frame procedure is similar to cantilever calipers. Adjust the cable
fittings, through the “noodle”, and through the tension to set arms close to parallel and then adjust pads. Use
protective rubber boot, if available. Finally, feed brake the barrel adjuster to back pads off rim for clearance.
cable through pinch mechanism. FIGURE 12.33
b. Check barrel adjuster position. Unscrew barrel adjuster
two turns from fully threaded into lever body.
c. Push both arms together until pads are touching rim and
inspect caliper arms. Arms should be close to parallel
with one another. Move washers as necessary to position
arms as described above.
d. Adjust one pad position relative to the rim at a time.
Loosen pad nut/bolt and lubricate curved washers and
FIGURE 12.32
Use screw to change spring tension when centering pads to rim
CANTILEVER CALIPER ADJUSTMENT

Cantilever calipers may be found on mountain bikes,
cyclo-cross bikes and touring bikes. Cantilever caliper pads
move downward on an arc as they travel to the rim (figure
12.34). Because of the downward arc, pads should be set high
vertically on the rim but without interfering with the tire.
Pad height will lower as pad face wears and the caliper arms
The linear-pull caliper brake (arrow shows direction or rim rotation) get closer to the lower edge (or hub side) of the rim.
Cantilever pads travel downward as they move toward rim Straddle wire link unit
FIGURE 12.35 bridge or front fork crown, or clearing the top of the fender,
if any.
A link unit uses housing and a head that is a fixed distance
above the tire (figure 12.37). The height of the link unit
determines the arm position. A longer link unit will allow more
clearance above the tire. The primary wire attaches to one
caliper arm, and the link unit attaches to the opposite arm.
The center head does not pinch the wire. The arms are drawn
together when the cable is pulled and the head is lifted upward.
Procedure for cantilever pad and caliper adjustment:
a. Mount bike in repair stand.
b. For calipers using link units, attach cable to lever. Feed
cable through all housing pieces and the link unit to the
Smooth stud pad with curved washer system caliper arm pinch bolt. For straddle wire carriers, feed
Cantilever calipers may use either the “smooth stud” or cable through housing and attach cable to straddle wire
“threaded stud” brake pads. Smooth stud brake pads are carrier. Position the carrier above the tire even with the
secured by pressure from a “pad-fixing bolt.” A system of lower part of the frame or fork, clearing the top of the
curved washers allows the brake post to rotate for setting fender, if any. Fully secure carrier pinch bolt.
toe (figure 12.35). The pad can be bolted into a range of c. Turn brake lever barrel adjuster fully clockwise into lever
positions, closer to or further from the rim. body, then unthread approximately two complete turns.
There are two basic systems that link the primary brake This allows adjustment after setting pad placement.
cable from the brake lever to the cantilever caliper arms: the d. Loosen brake pad fixing nuts on both sides of cantilever
straddle wire carrier and the “link unit.” and lubricate threads, curved washers, and washer-to-arm
A straddle wire carrier is centered over the wheel and contact points.
uses a pinch bolt to secure the primary brake cable (figure e. Point pads down, away from rim, and gently snug nuts.
12.36). The carrier pulls up on a straddle wire, a separate This allows proper alignment of caliper arms before
wire connecting the two caliper arms. Place the straddle wire adjusting pads.
carrier as low as practical for the best mechanical advantage f. Position caliper arms parallel to one another (figure
to the brake pads. The bottom of the carrier should be 12.38). For saddle wire carriers or link wires, adjust
approximately even with the lowest part of the rear seat stay cable length at caliper arm pinch bolt. Use the Park Tool
Straddle wire carrier for cantilever calipers Adjust brake cable at pinch bolt until arms are close to parallel
178
BT-2 Cable Stretcher to help adjust cable length. Secure FIGURE 12.40
pinch bolt.
g. View centering of caliper arms to rim. Most calipers use a
centering setscrew on the caliper arm. Turning the setscrew
changes spring tension. For example, to move both arms
right, turn right side setscrew clockwise. To move both
arms left, turn right side screw counter-clockwise. Squeeze
lever to work calipers and check centering again. Do not
center pads to rim at this stage; consider only the position
of the caliper arms relative to rim.
h. Attach a rubber band around backside of pad. This is
used in pad alignment only and is later removed (figure
12.39). The rubber band creates a shim to give toe to the
brake pad. Some pads may have a built-in toe feature at Use spring tension to center pads to rim
the back end of the pad. Do not use a rubber band on bolt and allow slack to feed through pinch plate. Tighten
these pads. Simply align the built-in toe feature flush to pinch bolt and test again. Adjust at brake lever.
the rim. p. View pad centering to rim. If not adequately centered,
FIGURE 12.39 use centering setscrew on arm (figure 12.40).
q. Inspect to ensure that the pads are not rubbing the tire.
Readjust if necessary. For smooth stud pads, use care not
to move brake pad stud in or out from caliper arm as this
changes centering. Move pads only up or down.
Some brands and models of cantilever calipers have no
centering setscrew or other system of pad-to-rim centering.
In this case, move smooth stud pads laterally as necessary in
pad fixing bolt. Another option on some brands utilizes an
adjustable spring tension nut on each caliper at the mounting
bolt. Spring tension can be changed on either arm.
The cantilever caliper may be designed for use with a
threaded stud brake pad that uses a series of convex and
Adjust the pad at a time, using a rubber band to create toe concave washer as a ball and socket system to allow the pad
i. Adjust pad alignment to rim. For smooth stud pads, push to rotate for toe and vertical face alignment (figure 12.41).
one pad through fixing bolt assembly until it is contacting The position of the pad to the arm can be changed laterally
rim. Use care not to move caliper arm. Set pads for correct by moving the wider spacer to the inner or outer side of the
position relative to rim in four basic alignments: caliper arms. The washer must be arranged with the convex
Height: with pad close to top edge of braking surface. and concave surfaces facing one another. Because there is a
Tangential: with front and back edge even to rim. washer system on either side of the caliper, the threaded stud
Vertical face: with pad face and rim parallel. can be secured in various positions other than square to the
Toe: with slight gap at trailing edge of pad. A rubber caliper arm.
band can act as a shim to hold the back of the pad Procedure for cantilever threaded stud pad adjustment:
out slightly. a. Use straddle wire to bring pads to rim and secure
j. Hold mounting bolt with hex wrench and tighten pinch bolt. Pads should be just touching rim-braking
mounting nut. Pad should contact rim after adjustment. surface. Do not close pads to rim with force, as final pad
k. Remove rubber band from rear and view toe. There alignment is not yet completed.
should be a slight gap at back of pad. Double-check pad FIGURE 12.41
alignment by viewing from top, bottom, front, and side.
l. Loosen other pad and repeat steps “h-k.” Both pads should
be contacting rim when pad adjustments are completed.
m.Squeeze lever multiple times to seat brake cable and test
brake cable pinch bolt. Cable should not slip either at
cable carrier or caliper arm.
n. Set clearance at lever for rider preference. If brake feels
tight, turn barrel adjuster clockwise to shorten cable
housing and loosen brake cable tension. If brake feels
loose, turn barrel adjuster counter-clockwise to tighten
brake cable tension.
o. If barrel adjuster is all the way engaged at lever and
brake lever is still too tight, loosen brake cable pinch ????
b. Set pads for correct position relative to rim in four Tools & Supplies:
basic alignments:
Height: with pad close to top edge of braking surface. • Box or open end wrenches
Tangent: with front and back edge even to rim. (Park Tool CBW-1 and CBW-4)
Vertical face: with pad face and rim parallel. • Hex wrenches
Toe: with slight gap at trailing edge of pad. A rubber (Park Tool – various models)
band can act as a shim to hold the back of the pad • Fourth hand
out slightly. (Park Tool BT-2)
c. Screw adjusting barrel into lever to clear pads from rim.
Squeeze lever and set lever clearance as desired.
d. View pad centering to rim. If not adequately centered, alignments are possible with pads using a ball and socket
use centering setscrew on arm. system only. Dual-pivot caliper arms can sometimes be bent
slightly for pad toe. If the caliper arm is relatively thick or
DUAL-PIVOT CALIPER ADJUSTMENT seems difficult to bend, however, then toe may be cut into
Dual-pivot calipers are popular on many road bikes. They the pad with a file. If the brake does not squeal on a test ride,
appear visually very similar to side-pull brakes (figure toeing is not required.
12.42). However, the left side and right side dual-pivot brake Procedure for dual-pivot caliper and pad adjustment:
caliper arms move on separate pivots, and the two arms arc a. Feed brake cable through brake lever and through housing.
in different directions. As seen from the mechanics point of b. Attach brake cable to pinch bolt and secure.
view, the left pad swings downward toward the rim while the c. Loosen and lubricate threads of pad bolt/nut.
right pad swings upward. As with other calipers, the swing of d. Squeeze both pads to rim and adjust pads for height and
the arm determines initial pad height. tangent. Right pad should be set to lower edge of braking
FIGURE 12.42 surface. Left should be set to upper edge of braking
surface. Vertical face alignment to rim and toe alignment
are not typically adjustable on dual-pivot calipers. If
desired, toe may be set by slightly bending arm. Grasp
arm with small adjustable wrench and bend arm as
needed. Use rag on caliper arm to protect finish if surface
scarring is a concern.
e. Fully tighten pad-fixing bolts.
f. Squeeze lever to test pad clearance.
g. Use barrel adjuster to adjust pad clearance. Set clearance
for approximately 3−4 mm (⅛ inch) on each side from
pad to rim or set for rider preference. Draw slack from
system using brake cable pinch bolt if barrel adjuster is
Dual-pivot caliper brake unscrewed to its limit.
FIGURE 12.43 h. View pad centering to rim. If left pad appears closer to
rim, tighten setscrew. If right pad appears closer, loosen
setscrew (figure 12.44).
There are brakes that require different methods of
centering. The Shimano® BR-9000™ uses a centering screw
located in the caliper arm that holds the adjusting barrel
(figure 12.45). Use this screw to move the arms left to right
when centering to the rim.
FIGURE 12.44
Mounting nut of a dual-pivot or side-pull caliper brake

Dual-pivot and side-pull brake calipers secure in mounting
holes in the frame and fork. These calipers secure to the frame
with a single nut centered above the wheel (figure 12.43). The
front brake-mounting bolt has longer threads, while the rear
brake bolt has shorter threads. When mounting a dual-pivot
or side-pull caliper, hold it centered to wheel and tighten nut.
Some dual-pivot brakes allow for only height and tangent
alignment adjustments to rim. Toeing or vertical face Center pads to rim with setscrew in brake bridge.
180
FIGURE 12.45 middle of the brake. The bolt for mounting the brake and
for the arm pivot is centered over the rim. Both pads swing
downward on an arc toward the rim and should be set high on
the braking surface.
Procedure for side-pull caliper and pad adjustment:
a. Feed brake cable through lever and through housing.
b. Loosen each pad-fixing nut and lubricate threads.
c. Push one arm to rim and set pad alignment. Adjust pad
to strike upper edge of braking surface. Pad front and
back edges should be level. Most side-pull pads adjust
only for height and tangent. Vertical face alignment is
not typically adjustable. Tighten pad-fixing bolt.
d. Repeat adjustment with other pad and tighten pad-
Centering screw for Shimano® BR-9000 fixing bolt.
FIGURE 12.46 e. Insert brake cable in pinch bolt mechanism. Squeeze
pads to rim and draw slack from cable. Secure brake cable
pinch bolt.
f. Squeeze lever hard several times to test brake cable pinch
bolt torque.
g. Check lever clearance to handlebar. Use adjusting barrel
to change lever clearance to rider preference.
h. Check brake pad centering to rim.
i. If pads are not centered to rim, hold caliper arms with
one hand while loosening rear nut. Move caliper so
pads are centered to rim and tighten rear nut. Some
models are fitted with a wrench flat in the center bolt.
Use one wrench on the stud and another wrench on the
Rotate mounting nut and wrench flats the same direction mounting nut and move wrenches the same direction and
to move calipers over rim the same amount (figure 12.48). One pad may contact
FIGURE 12.47 the rim before the other when squeezed to the rim.
This is not an issue with side-pull calipers. It is only
important that the pads are centered to the rim when
they are fully open.
j. Set toe if necessary. Test ride bike and apply brakes. If
brakes do not squeal, toe is not necessary. If desired, toe
may be set by slightly bending arm. Grasp arm with small
adjustable wrench and bend arm as needed. Use rag to
protect arm if surface scarring is a concern.
FIGURE 12.48
Side-pull caliper brake

SRAM® has wrench flats behind the caliper arms. Use a hex
wrench in the mounting nut behind the brake and a brake-
centering wrench such as the Park Tool OBW-4 at the same
time, moving them in the same direction (figure 12.46).
SIDE-PULL CALIPER ADJUSTMENT

Road-type bikes can also use a side-pull brake (figure
12.47). Side-pull calipers at first glance look like dual-pivot
calipers. Each arm, however, shares a single pivot bolt in the Centering side-pull with centering flats on brake stud
13 Handlebars, stems, saddles, & seatposts
Handlebars, stems, saddles, & seatposts
CHAPTER 13 HANDLEBARS, STEMS, SADDLES, & SEATPOSTS
H andlebars connect the rider to the stem, which

connects to the bicycle fork. The handlebars are one
of the three contact points between the cyclist and
the bicycle, along with the saddle and pedals. All of these
components should be fitted and adjusted to the rider’s
bar center to the grip. The bar may also rise up from the bar
center, and bars may vary from no rise to several centimeters.
Bar-ends are optional extensions attached to the end of
upright bars and give the rider more hand position options.
There are designs that mount internally or externally on
body and riding style to maximize comfort and performance. the ends of the handlebars (figure 13.3). Bar-ends may be
Different models, sizes, and styles of handlebars and stems stressed with nearly the entire body weight of the rider
can be changed for individual positioning needs. There are during use and should be tight and very secure on the bar.
two basic handlebar types: the upright bar and the drop bar. However, external bar-ends may crush the ends of very thin-
walled handlebars. If the inside diameter of the bar is greater
UPRIGHT HANDLEBARS than 19 mm, a plug is required to provide internal support to
Upright style bars are commonly used on mountain bikes, prevent bar damage. Consult a professional mechanic or the
hybrid bikes, BMX bikes, and cruisers. These bars can be manufacturer if in doubt.
tubular steel, aluminum, or carbon fiber and are made with FIGURE 13.3
a bend or curve to each side. Generally, these bars should be
aligned to point straight back with the bar bend level to the
ground (figure 13.1). When the bars are rotated, it will affect
the reach to brake and shift levers.
FIGURE 13.1
Secure bar-ends so they do not move under load
BAR GRIPS
There are two types of grips: the slide-on grip and the lock-
on grip. Slide-on grips are made to push on the bar ends with
Upright handlebar rotated to a level or flat position force and rely on tension from the rubber gripping the bar.
Standard upright bars use a 22.2 mm outside diameter at Lock-on grips use external collars at each end of the grip.
the ends for securing brake levers, shift levers, bar grips, Small setscrews in the collars are tightened to prevent the
and bar-end extensions. The stem tightens on the handlebar grip from moving.
center. Upright handlebars are made with center diameters Grips vary in shape, color, compounds, size, and length, but
of 22.2 mm, 25.4 mm, 26.0 mm, 26.4 mm, 31.8 mm, and 35 all are designed to fit a 22.2 mm bar diameter. Grips should
mm. (Note: 31.7 mm is considered the same as 31.8 mm and not slip or move during the ride. With extended use, grips
interchanged without issue). Shims are available for oversized may loosen and should be replaced.
stems to fit smaller bar center diameters. When installing new grips make sure the levers are positioned
Upright bars are available in different designs and can to allow the grips to slide fully onto the bar. For slide-on grips,
vary in width, bend, and/or rise (figure 13.2). Bar width is it can help to lubricate the inside of the grip with non-oily
measured end to end. The bars may bend or sweep back toward liquids, such as rubbing alcohol, hair spray, window cleaner, or
the rider. The amount of bend is measured in degrees from the a fluid which will quickly evaporate. Do not use oil of any type
FIGURE 13.2 in the grip, as this will prevent the grip from holding fast.
If the old slide-on grips are worn out and are being
replaced, they may be cut off the bar. It is also possible to
remove and re-use the grips if they are in good condition. Use
a long, flat-tipped screwdriver worked gently under the inside
edge of the grip. Drip or spray liquid such as window cleaner,
hair spray, or rubbing alcohol in the gap (figure 13.4). Work
the solvent around the grip to loosen the bond and slide the
grip off the bar.
If the grip has a sealed end, it can be removed with
compressed air. Use a blow tip and place inside end of grip.
Wiggle the grip while pulling as blown air loosens grip from
bar. It is necessary to have someone plug the exposed bar end
(A) Bend (B) Width (C) Rise to remove the second grip.
184
HANDLEBARS, STEMS, SADDLES, & SEATPOSTS CHAPTER 13
FIGURE 13.4 lowest section. Bar reach is measured from bar center, where
it clamps in a stem, forward to the center of the bar at the
curve (figure 13.6).
FIGURE 13.6
Move levers inward, then lift grip to inject liquid spray

If the grips are slipping, it may be possible to improve the
bond to the bar with glue. Contact cements and tubular tire
cements are good choices. Use a thin layer inside the grip (A) Reach (B) Width (C) Drop
rather than on the bar to avoid having to clean up excess Drop style bars can be rotated at the stem for comfort.
exposed glue. There are rotational limits (figure 13.7). Too far up or down
Lock-on grip setscrews should hold the grip tightly to the sacrifices performance and safety. Drop bars experience a
bar (figure 13.5). Test the grip by turning with force. The grip significant amount of stress at the stem clamp, and it is
should not rotate. The center rubber section of lock-on grips important that the drop bar be fully secure. Refer to Appendix
will wear and eventually require replacement. C and with manufacturer’s specifications for torque values.
Secure setscrews on the lockring grips Upper and lower limits of drop bar rotation
DROP STYLE HANDLEBARS (ROAD BARS) CLIP-ON AND AERO HANDLEBARS

Drop style bars curve forward and downward to form hooks “Clip-on aero bar” attachments are available for drop or flat
for the hands. Drop bars may be made of steel, aluminum, or handlebars (figure 13.8). These bars secure to the existing
carbon fiber and will vary in width, reach of the drop, and bar, and are intended to improve the aerodynamic position
shape of the bar. Select a bar for comfort. There are currently of the cyclist. However some cyclists use them simply to
center diameter standards of 25.4 mm, 25.8 mm, 26.0 mm, allow a different body position for a change in comfort. It
26.4 mm, 31.8 mm (31.7 mm is considered the same as 31.8 FIGURE 13.8
mm), and 35 mm. When in doubt, measure the bar center
diameter with a caliper. Stems sized for larger bar can be
shimmed down for the small bar standards.
The stem should match the standard of the bar center.
For example, using a stem made for a 26.0 bar center with
a 25.4 bar will mean the bar will not properly secure in the
stem. This combination will slip and move, resulting in a very
dangerous situation for the user. However, a difference of 0.1
mm between stem and bar is considered acceptable.
Drop bars are made with different designs and shapes.
The common method for measuring bar width is from center
to center at the bar ends. The amount of handlebar drop is
measured center-to-center from the bar top downward to the “Clip-on” handlebars mounted to drop handlebars
Tech Note: FIGURE 13.10
Road handlebars are wrapped in a padded

tape for comfort. Alternatively, long foam
rubber grips are slid on to the bars. Wrapping
is a skill that takes practice and patience.
For the procedure to wrap handlebars, see
www.parktool.com/blog/repair/help.
is important that the primary bar and clip-on attachments

are fully secure before riding. Loose bars may result in a
cyclist losing control, should they slip during use. Check
manufacturer’s specifications for torque and compatibility. Gap between faceplate and stem body must be even
Unlike the supplemental clip-on bar attachments, the between top and bottom plates
integrated aero handlebar is a complete bar assembly (figure stems designed for downhill riding tend to be short, heavy, and
13.9). Aero handlebars have fittings made to rest the elbows very strong in order to take the punishment of DH riding. Stems
and extensions for the hand controls. The extensions are designed for road riding tend to be longer and lighter, but are
usually adjustable forward and back, and the elbow rests are not as strong. Handlebar and steering column diameters may
usually adjustable side to side. Special purpose brake and shift match between two stems, but a less strong stem should never
levers are fitted to the aero handlebar. Aero handlebars are be substituted when the riding calls for a stronger stem.
considered primarily a racing-only handlebar system. Both threadless and quill stems are available in adjustable
FIGURE 13.9 angle versions. An adjustable angle stem has a built-in pivot
that allows changes to the angle relative to the steering
column. These stems allow the rider to try different positions
without installing a new stem. The pivot fastener must be
fully secured before the stem can be safely used.
QUILL STEMS
The “quill” refers to the vertical post of the quill stem that
inserts into the inside of the threaded steering column. A bolt
draws up a wedge or cone to jam the stem tight inside the
column. The stem binder bolt, bolt head, wedge, and outside
of the quill should have a layer of grease or anti-seize before
installing and tightening (figure 13.11).
Secure all fittings on integrated aero bar systems Quill stems are available in different stem angle and
extensions like threadless stems. Quill stems are also specified
STEMS for length of the quill. The stem angle is measured from the
Stems connect the handlebars to the fork column. Bikes quill to the extension (figure 13.11).
with threaded columns use “quill stems” and threaded FIGURE 13.11
headsets, and bikes with threadless columns use threadless
stems and threadless headsets.
A stem binds and holds the bars using either a faceplate or
a one-piece pinch clamp. All binder bolts in the stem should
be lubricated and secured tightly. Do not, however, get grease
or oil in the area where the bar meets the stem or column.
The stem/bar interface may creak or even slip and move if not
properly secured.
The removable faceplate of a faceplate clamping stem
presses against the bar center when the stem binder bolts
are tightened. It is important that each bolt be tightened
the same amount and the top and bottom gaps between the
faceplate and the stem body are the same. If the gap size is
different, the heads of the faceplate bolts will be stressed as
they rotate during tightening (figure 13.10).
Stems are designed for specific uses. There is some
interchangeability, if the column and handlebar diameters Quill type stem: (A) Stem binder bolt, (B) Stem wedge,
match, but riding style must dictate stem selection. For example, (C) Handlebar binder, (D) Quill section, (E) Stem length, (F) Stem angle
186
It is important that the stem’s quill diameter is a correct at least 2.5 times the diameter of the quill inserted into the
match for the inside diameter of the steering column. The column. For 1 inch diameter quill stems, leave 2½ inches of
quill should be slightly smaller than the inside of the column. quill inserted. Large changes to stem height may also require
There are several different steering column sizes found on adding longer shift or brake cables and housing.
bikes. Quill stems of 22.2 mm are used inside a 1 inch (25.4 The stem should be aligned with the front wheel. However,
mm) steering column. Quill stems of 25.4 mm are used inside it is often easier to align the handlebars to the front axle or
a 1⅛ inch (28.6 mm) column, and a 28.6 mm quill is used the dropouts. Handlebars provide a visual straight edge to
inside a 1¼ inch (31.8 mm) column. align the bars parallel to the front hub. It is useful to place
FIGURE 13.12 a straight edge on the fork blades. Compare this line to the
handlebar near the stem. If the two lines appear parallel, the
stem is straight (Figure 13.13 and Figure 13.14).
THREADLESS STEMS
Threadless stems clamp around the outside of the steering
column. A threadless stem also acts to lock the threadless
headset’s bearings’ adjustment. Look for the adjusting cap at
the top of the steering column. Do not confuse this cap for
part of the stem. A threadless stem should be mounted only to
a threadless steering column; never secure a threadless stem
over the threads of a threaded fork.
Threadless stem standards are determined by the outside
Example of stem set too high. “Max height” line must not be visible. diameter of the steering column. There several standards in use:
To change stem height on a quill stem, loosen the stem the 25.4 mm stem for 1 inch steering columns, 28.6 mm stems
binder bolt at the top of the quill. Do not loosen the headset for 1⅛ inch columns, 31.8 mm stems for 1¼ inch columns,
locknut to move the stem. Attempt to move the stem by and 38.1 mm stems for 1½ inch columns. A larger stem may be
twisting after loosening the binder bolt. If it will not move, shimmed down to a smaller steering column standard.
strike the top of the stem binder bolt with a hammer or Threadless stems are available in many different angles
mallet to free the wedge. The stem must not be raised too and lengths. Stem length or extension is measured from the
high. Inspect the stem for a “max height” line and do not center of the bar clamp to the center of the steering column.
raise the stem past this mark (figure 13.12). As a rule, have Stem angle is measured between the steering column to a
FIGURE 13.13 line through the stem extension. The fork clamp stack height
is measured along the steering column. The clamp stack
height is a consideration when sizing and cutting the steering
column to fit the bike (figure 13.15).
FIGURE 13.15
Straight edge shows bars and stem are not aligned
FIGURE 13.14
Threadless stem measurements: (A) Stem length,

(B) Stem angle, (C) Stem stack height
Threadless stem height adjustability is limited by the number
of extra spacers used along the steering column. To lower
threadless stems, remove extra spacers that are below the stem
and stack them above the stem. It is important to keep at least
one spacer between the stem and headset. This helps reduce
stress on the steering column. If, after lowering the stem,
there is an excessive amount of steering column extending
above the stem, the column may be cut and shortened. See
Straight edge is parallel to bar, which makes stem aligned Chapter 14, Headsets, Threadless Steering Columns.
To raise a threadless stem, look for any spacers above FIGURE 13.18
the stem. Move these to below the stem, leaving enough
of a gap for the top cap to allow for headset adjustment.
Simply adding additional spacers below the current stem
and column arrangement to raise the bars may compromise
stem-to-steering column engagement and make the bike
unsafe. The steering column must have good contact with
the inside of the threadless stem. However, the steering
column should be slightly recessed below the stem top
(figure 13.16).
FIGURE 13.16
Stem is misaligned when bars are not parallel to fork blades

It is critical for safety, when the steering column is made of
carbon fiber, to not over-tighten bolts as this may crack the
carbon material (figure 13.19). Consult the manufacturer for
acceptable torque limits.
FIGURE 13.19
Threadless steering column recessed below threadless stem

Aluminum, steel, and carbon fiber steering columns have
limits for how many spacers can be between the lower edge of
the stem and the headset top cap. See page 203, Threadless
Steering Columns.
If there are no spacers above the stem, consider installing
a different stem with a steeper upward angle. Another option
for more height is to add a threadless stem extension to
further raise the handlebars (figure 13.17). These mount over Cracked steering column from stem binder bolts
the steering column and extend a post upward where the
threadless stem clamps. It is important that the extension SADDLES
fully engages the steering column. Consult the manufacturer The saddle is straddled by the cyclist and offers support
for height limits. for his/her weight. Saddles are available in many different
FIGURE 13.17 shapes, widths, and padding options. Saddles are made in
both “men’s” and “women’s” specific designs. However, saddle
selection is a personal choice and it is best to find a retail
bike shop that will allow you to try different models. There
are also designs specific to BMX, time-trial racing, cyclo-cross,
as well as other types of riding.
Bicycle saddles have a rail system mounted beneath a saddle
shell, which in modern saddles is usually molded plastic resin.
Padding and a leather or synthetic cover then covers the shell.
The rails are secured to the seatpost by saddle rail binder
clamps (figure 13.20).
Common saddles use two parallel 7 mm round rails. The rails
allow the saddle to be positioned forward or back relative to
the seatpost as desired by the cyclist. Seatposts allow options
in saddle tilt or angle. There are also proprietary mono-rail
saddle designs that require a unique seat post made by the
saddle manufacturer.
Threadless column extender A common problem in this area is a creaking noise in the
Align the stem with the front wheel. If this proves difficult, saddle or seatpost. This is typically resolved by properly
use a straight edge to extend the line of the fork blades tightening the saddle rail binder bolts. However, if the saddle
(figure 13.18). See the procedure described above for quill shell has loosened from the rail, it cannot be effectively
stems. Fully secure stem binder bolts. repaired. Hard use and crashing may bend the saddle rails.
188
Secure saddle rail binder bolts by alternating tightening Post on the left has no offset; post on the right has 32 mm offset
when two bolts are used
Less expensive and older bikes may use a simple seatpost
Riding with a bent rail may lead to breakage of the rail. without built-in clamp. These are basically a simple tube
Replace saddles with cracked shells, bent rails, or rails that swedged down to a ⅞ inch diameter top. A separate clamping
have separated from the shell. bracket secures the saddle rails to the top of the post.
To change the saddle, begin by noting the position of There are many different sized seat tubes used on bicycles,
the current saddle. Place a straight edge on the saddle and and seatpost diameters are available to match. Seatpost
measure the saddle tilt or angle using an angle finder. It is diameters range from 22.2 mm to 32.4 mm. The post diameter
useful to use a long straight edge on the saddle to extend should be approximately 0.1 mm smaller than the inside seat
the top when setting the saddle angle (figure 13.21). Note tube diameter. There are shims available to allow a smaller
the forward/rearward position of the saddle on the rails. post to fit into a larger seat tube. Cutting “homemade”
Unbolt the old saddle from the seatpost cradle. Lubricate aluminum shims does not typically provide an adequate fit.
saddle rail binder bolts with a light lubricant. Install the new If the frame is steel, titanium, or aluminum, use grease
saddle on the post clamp and secure binder bolts. Using an or anti-seize inside the seat tube to prevent corrosion from
angle finder, measure and adjust the saddle angle, and secure seizing the post. If the seatpost or frame is made of carbon, use
the saddle on the rails in the same position as the previous a special assembly compound such as Park Tool SAC-2. These
saddle. Change the position as necessary after a test ride. compounds contain both a gritty substance for more friction
Generally, begin with the saddle in a level position, and then and a carrier that helps prevent corrosion. If you ride in an
make changes in small increments upward or downward as area with much rain or are often riding near salt water, remove
necessary for rider comfort. the post every 3 to 4 months to clean inside the seat tube and
FIGURE 13.21 reapply the grease, anti-seize or assembly compound.
Various methods are used to secure a seatpost into the
bicycle frame. Frames that use round seatposts typically
have a compression slot cut into the top of the seat tube. A
seatpost binder bolt pinches the seat tube at the top to hold
the post secure in the frame. Lubricate the seatpost binder
bolt before tightening. The binder bolt does not require a
great deal of tension to hold the post from slipping downward.
Generally, only tighten the binder until the saddle will not
rotate when pressed with one hand. If it will not rotate with
one hand, it is unlikely to slip downward (figure 13.23).
FIGURE 13.23
Use straight edge to extend saddle line when adjusting tilt
SEATPOSTS
The seatpost connects the saddle to the frame. Seatposts
are available in different lengths, diameters, and even shapes.
Better quality seatposts have a saddle rail binder clamp
integrated into the top of the post.
Seatposts vary in “offset” or “setback” which is the
distance from center of the post to the center of the rail
binder system securing the saddle. More offset allows the
rider to sit further back relative to cranks and away from the
handlebars (figure 13.22). Test saddle rotation by twisting with one hand, not two
Tech Note: FIGURE 13.25
Seat posts can seize to the frame. For

details on seized post removal, see
www.parktool.com/blog/repair/help.
Bike frames may use a seatpost binder mechanism with a

bolt built into the frame. However, some frames use a separate
collar that slides over the top of the seat tube. The collar
holds the seatpost binder bolt to squeeze the collar around Trim integrated seat tubes using saw guide SG-7.2
the seat tube and hold the post. When possible, secure seatposts using a torque wrench using
Another option for securing the seatpost is a quick release the manufacturers’ torque recommendation.
cam system. This permits the post to be raised and lowered The “integrated seatpost” is a frame design using an
without using wrenches. The cam is similar to a wheel skewer extended seat tube built into the frame. A long seat tube
quick release in design. However, less tension is required for a extends upward past the top tube and holds a seat rail clamp
seatpost compared to a wheel quick release skewer. Adjust for mechanism. The frame acts as the seat post extension for the
only enough tension on the cam to prevent the saddle from saddle. The seat tube is cut down to fit the rider with a saw
easily twisting sideways. guide such as the Park Tool SG-7.2 (figure 13.25).
Seatposts are usually marked with a “maximum extension” Suspension seatposts are made to allow for rider and saddle
or “minimum insertion” line (figure 13.24). Do not raise the movement up and down relative to the frame (figure 13.26).
post above this line, or the post may break. Generally, always A spring system allows the bicycle to move up and down
keep the end of the post inserted below the frame lug or joint under the rider to help minimize bumps. With much use, the
of the seat tube and top tube. Seatposts often flex under use FIGURE 13.26
and can bend permanently from impact and heavy use. A bent
post is not repairable and should be replaced immediately.
FIGURE 13.24
Suspension seatpost
FIGURE 13.27
Post is too high; insert post so “max line” is not seen
Some bike frames are designed for flat or aero shaped
seatposts. These posts cannot be rotated in the frame
because of the non-round shape of both frame and post.
The shapes are proprietary and are made for a close fit to
particular frames. These posts do not interchange between
frame manufacturers. Some frame designs hold the aero post
using a seatpost backing plate, similar to the faceplates of
stems. Bolts press a specially shaped plate to back side of the
seatpost to hold it tight in the frame. Other frame designs
use a compression slot and a binder bolt system. The frame is
pinched tight at the compression slot to hold the aero post. Range of height option for an adjustable height seat post
190
bushings and linkage of the system may develop play. Contact Tech Note:
the manufacturer for service procedures.
“Adjustable height” posts are made of telescoping tubing
and can be quickly moved and then locked to different saddle
height options (figure 13.27). These posts do not provide A bent saddle rail or a saddle that is not
suspension for the rider, but can be useful when a lower centered may result in pain or discomfort.
Inspect saddle after any crash or impact.
height is desired for extreme off-road descents. Adjustable
height posts are commonly fitted with handlebar control
mechanisms to adjust the height without getting off the bike
while riding.
14 Headsets
Headsets
CHAPTER 14 HEADSETS
T he headset is the bearing system that connects the

bicycle fork to the head tube of the frame. A properly
maintained and adjusted headset permits two-wheeled
vehicles such as bicycles to make small self-corrections in
steering. These small corrections in handling allow us to ride
The threadless headset is used on steering columns with no
threading. The adjustment is performed with a non-threaded
adjusting race that slides along the steering column. The race
is pushed against the bearings by pressure from an adjusting
cap at the top of a threadless stem (figure 14.3). Pinch bolts
a relatively straight and smooth line. on the stem secure the stem on the steering column and also
The fork column is supported by bearings in the upper and lock the bearing adjustment.
lower areas of the frame head tube. If these support surfaces FIGURE 14.3
are not machined parallel, the bearings will bind as the fork
is rotated. This can lead to premature bearing wear and poor
adjustment. The head tube can become deformed by welding or
by inadequate manufacturing techniques. If necessary, the head
tube can be machined (“faced”) so the surfaces are parallel by
using a head tube reaming and facing tool (figure 14.1). The
base of the fork steering column should also be cut square to
the fork. If it is not properly machined, the fork crown race will
not sit square to the steering column and will add to the binding
effect. The fork can be machined with a crown race cutter.
Facing the head tube and fork crown is best left to professional
mechanics. Generally, the headset is first installed and then
simply adjusted. If it adjusts well, with no binding, then the Threadless headset with external pressed cups, threadless stem, and top cap
machining is considered adequate and there is no problem. There are currently many different headset standards. When
FIGURE 14.1 replacing a headset it is important to select a compatible
model. The cycling industry is making an attempt to be more
consistent in describing and naming the different headset
standards by implementing the “Standardized Headset
Information System,” or “SHIS,” a code system that describes
the headset style and sizing diameter of the bike. Appendix
D is a table of SHIS terms, the common legacy names, and
sizing dimensions.
The first part of the SHIS is a two-letter code defining the
headset fit into the frame. This may be “EC,” “ZS,” and “IS.”
“EC” is an abbreviation for “external cup.” Both the
threadless and threaded headsets can use this design. The
bearing cups and bearings sitting outside (above and below)
Facing the head tube surface to improve bearing alignment the head tube faces. This would be considered a traditional or
conventional headset design (figure 14.4).
HEADSET TYPES “ZS” refers to the internal headset designs, also known as
The two basic headset types are threaded and threadless. “zero-stack” or semi-integrated. Headset cups or adaptors
Threaded headsets use a threaded top-bearing race that screws are pressed into a relatively large head tube. The bearings sit
onto a threaded steering column. A locknut is used above the FIGURE 14.4
threaded race to lock and hold the bearing adjustment. A quill
stem inserts down inside the steering column but is not part
of the bearing system (figure 14.2).
FIGURE 14.2
External cups of a threaded headset with quill stem installed The “EC” or external cup style headset
194
HEADSETS CHAPTER 14
inside these pieces with the bearings being nearly level with The SHIS system provides for separate designations of upper
the head tube faces, rather than outside the head tube as and lower headset bearing configurations. This is because a
with the EC design. A new replacement ZS headset will include bike can use different standards for the upper and lower faces
the cups or adaptors that press into the frame as well as the of the headtube. The two-letter code and bore number are
bearings. The ZS compatible bikes tend use a relatively large followed by a backslash and numbers providing information
diameter head tube of approximately 50 mm. This allows the about the steering column size. For example, one configuration
bearings to sit hidden inside the tube (figure 14.5). could have an upper headset of EC34/28.6 and a lower headset
FIGURE 14.5 of EC34/30. Both upper and lower are external cup (EC)
headsets for a nominally 34 mm frame bore. However, the upper
designation indicates a steering column of 28.6 mm (1⅛ inch),
while the lower headset designation indicates a larger diameter
of 30 mm (the fork crown race size). This headset would fit a
1⅛ inch steering column that uses a 30 mm fork crown.
Bikes may also have mixed standards with a “tapered
headtube.” One such system might have a designation of
ZS44/28.6 for the top bearing assembly and ZS56/40 for
the lower. The fork in this example would have a tapered
steering column, with a base of 40 mm at the fork crown. It
would then taper upwards to a size of 28.6 mm, allowing for a
threadless stem (figure 14.7).
The ZS or “zero stack” headset type FIGURE 14.7
“IS” is the “integrated headset” design (figure 14.6). IS
headsets use cartridge bearings that are a slip-fit into the
frame. The frame is made with a head tube profile that holds
the cartridge bearings. Bearings are dropped into place
without pressed-in cups or adaptors. The cartridge bearings
use an angular contact to mate with a concave fitting in
the frame. The ZS headset is not considered an integrated
design because the bearings sit inside cups or adaptors that
are pressed into the frame. For IS headsets, the headtube of
the frame acts as the adaptor and is effectively part of the
headset system. A replacement IS headset will include only
cartridge bearings, a crown race, and top cap.
Mixed headset standards with the lower headtube is ZS56/40,
FIGURE 14.6 and the upper headtube is ZS44/28.6
There are also several proprietary designs unique to some
manufacturers. It is important to know which standard the
bike uses to find the correct replacement parts. When in
doubt, consult a professional mechanic.
HEADSET SERVICE
The front wheel throws dirt and water directly up at the
lower headset bearings, causing them to become contaminated
with grit and dirt. Riding also stresses the bearings, especially
the lower races, and the bearing surfaces will become scored. To
determine if a headset needs service, pick up the front wheel
IS headset type and turn the bars left and right. If it feels gritty or sticky, it
In the SHIS system, the letter code is followed the nominal should be overhauled. If the headset seems to stick and stop in
size of the intended frame bore. For example, EC34 is the Tools & Supplies:
external cup style for a nominally 34 mm bore head tube. The • Hex wrenches
sizing number is not intended to be the actual OD of the cup • Headset wrenches, for threaded
or ID of the head tube. It is an abbreviated code system to headsets only (Park Tool HCW-15)
simplify the labeling of headsets. The older legacy name for • Large adjustable wrench, for threaded
this was the “1⅛ inch conventional pressed headset.” A ZS44 headsets only (Park Tool PAW-12)
headset is the zero-stack (internal) with a nominal 44 mm • Grease (Park Tool PPL-1)
bore diameter in the frame. The IS42 headset is an integrated • Solvent (Park Tool CB-2)
headset using the 42 mm bore, known previously as the “1⅛ • Rags
integrated Italian Standard.”
CHAPTER 14 HEADSETS
a pattern as it rotates, then the races are pitted. Replace these FIGURE 14.9
headsets. During any overhaul, taking notes regarding parts
orientation during disassembly will help during reassembly.
Depending upon the design, headsets may use caged
(retainer) ball bearings, loose ball bearings, or cartridge
bearings. Cartridge bearing headsets are serviced by simply
replacing the entire cartridge. Caged bearing and loose ball
bearings ride on curved bearing races.
When overhauling, inspect bearing races for pitting and
damage. Look for gouging and small evenly spaced pits (figure
14.8). Use a ballpoint pen to trace the bearing path. Roughness
and wear will be felt as the small ball of the pen passes over
bad areas. Wear in the races will not become smooth with new
grease. Replace worn parts or the entire headset. Ball bearings
that have been cleaned and have a shiny silver color and
appear smooth may be reused. The ball bearings are generally
the last part of the system to wear out. Ball bearings that
appear discolored or “cloudy” after cleaning should be replaced. Cartridge bearing orientation
FIGURE 14.8 side. The concave side will face a cone shaped race on the fork
crown, or it will face the adjusting race. The convex side will
face toward the headtube, either top or bottom (figure 14.9).
Procedure for threadless headset disassembly:
a. Loosen stem binder bolts.
b. Loosen and remove top cap bolt and cap.
c. Note location and orientation of any washers or spacers
on steering column. Remove stem and all spacers from
steering column.
d. Pull fork from bike. It may be necessary to use a mallet
and tap the top of the steering column, driving fork
downward (figure 14.10). Once the fork is driven down
a little, lift it back up and remove center cone from
Inspect the cups for pit marks adjusting race.
Pressed races may be left in the head tube and on the fork FIGURE 14.10
unless the headset is being replaced. Clean all bearings and
races with a solvent. Use care on suspension forks not to get
solvent into lower sliding legs.
Remove or disconnect handlebar-mounted computer wire
and/or electronic shift wires to avoid damage before removing
the stem from the fork. The handlebars are often in the way
when servicing the headset. It is best to disconnect the cables
from the brake calipers and derailleurs and completely remove
the bars. This will also help prevent damage to housing and
inner wires. Alternatively, use toe straps and rags to pad and
bind the handlebars to the frame so they are out of the way.
THREADLESS HEADSET SERVICE

The threadless EC, ZS, and IS headset standards share the
same basic service procedures. If the headset uses a cartridge
bearing rather then caged ball bearings, simply replace the
cartridge bearing as a unit. However, it is sometimes possible If necessary, drive fork column down using a mallet
to use a seal pick and remove the seals of some cartridge e. Remove fork from frame and note orientation of cage
bearings after removal from the bike. These can than be bearing retainers, cartridge bearings, or any rubber seal
cleaned and re-greased. However, new grease will not repair as they sit in headset.
and make smooth a pitted or rough bearing surface. f. Unless headset is to be replaced, leave pressed parts on
The cartridge bearing is common in the ZS and IS standards. the frame or fork.
The bearings are a slip fit and will install and remove by g. For caged-ball or loose-ball bearing headsets, clean and
hand. Grease the outside of the cartridge to prevent corrosion. inspect parts. Any worn parts should be replaced. For
Cartridge bearings for headsets have a concave and convex cartridge headset, simply replace cartridges.
196
HEADSETS CHAPTER 14
If the headset uses caged ball retainers, check the Note the height of the steering column relative to the
orientation of the retainers in relation to the races before stem. Steel and aluminum columns can be approximately
installing. Retainers have only one correct orientation. The 2−3 mm (⅛ inch) below the level of the stem. The stem needs
metal wire of the retainer forms a “C” shape between the to press down on the bearing race below in order to adjust the
balls. The open side of this “C” should face the cone shaped bearings. If the top cap presses on the steering column rather
race, not the cup-shaped race (figure 14.11). If in doubt as than the stem, there will be no load put on the adjusting race
to retainer orientation you can test it by placing the bearing and bearings. It will be impossible to remove bearing play.
between the race and cup without the fork. Press downward The column can be cut shorter, or alternatively, spacers can
on the mating bearing surfaces with your hand. Rotate be added either above or below the stem to achieve a gap
the race and note the feeling. If the bearing orientation is between top cap and steering column (figure 14.13).
incorrect, the metal retainer will cause a rubbing feeling as FIGURE 14.13
it rotates and pushes against the race. If the orientation is
correct, the race rotates only on the ball bearings, not the
retainer cage, and the race will rotate freely.
FIGURE 14.11
Spacer added to increase clearance between top cap and column

Carbon fiber columns should protrude past the stem rather
than be recessed. This permits the stem to secure as much
column as possible and reduces the chance of cracking at the
Open side of cage should face cone-shape of race top of the column (figure 14.14). A spacer must then be used
Procedure for threadless headset assembly: on top of the stem as described above to allow the top cap to
a. For caged-ball headset, thoroughly pack grease into perform the bearing adjustment.
bearing retainers and bearing race cups. FIGURE 14.14
b. Install bearing retainers into upper and lower cup shaped
races. For cartridge bearing headsets, drop cartridges in
place, with concave side facing to cone shape of races.
c. Install fork steering column through head tube.
d. Install top adjustable race, centering-washer, and bearing
cap onto column. Press centering-washer and bearing cap
down to contact adjusting race.
e. Install any spacers and accessories on steering column
as appropriate.
f. Install stem on column. Push stem against spacers and
race. Snug stem bolts to hold fork.
g. Check for acceptable clearance from top of column to top
of stem and install top cap with cap bolt (figure 14.12). Recessed carbon columns are susceptible to cracking from stem
binder bolt pressure
FIGURE 14.12
For headsets using caged bearings, it is possible to replace
retainer ball bearings with loose ball bearings of the same
diameter. Loose balls, especially in the lower race, can move
about in the race and this helps prevent the pitting that
commonly ruins headsets. Installation and assembly with
loose bearings is more difficult. It is important that the
bearings stay aligned in the cup as the headset is assembled.
To use loose ball bearings, grease cups to hold bearings.
Place balls into cup-shaped races. Leave a gap equal to two to
three ball bearings (figure 14.15). Do not attempt to fully fill
cup with ball bearings. If possible, rotate bicycle upside down
in the stand to assist assembly before installing fork. After
Steel and aluminium steering columns should be recessed below top of stem assembly with loose ball bearings, rotate fork to check smooth
CHAPTER 14 HEADSETS
Loose ball bearings in the headset cup with gap so balls can move freely Make bearing adjustment at top cap only when stem bolts are loose
rotation. Any popping or sudden change in feeling indicates e. Tighten stem bolt(s) and check for play by pulling
a bearing out of place. Dismantle the headset, reposition the back and forth on fork blades. Turn the handlebar in
bearings to line up in the cup, and reassemble. different directions while checking for play. There may
be play at this early setting. Grab the upper portion of
THREADLESS HEADSET ADJUSTMENT suspension forks because the lower legs may have play
Threadless headsets, including EC, ZS, and IS types, operate on in the bushings.
the same principle and share adjustment procedures. The bearing f. If play is felt in headset, loosen stem bolt(s).
races must press against the bearings to remove play. The bolt g. Turn adjusting bolt in center cap ⅛ to ¼ turn
in the top cap puts pressure on the stem. The stem presses on clockwise only.
washers below the stem and the washers put pressure on the h. Re-secure stem bolts, check fork for play again.
bearing races and bearings (figure 14.16). The stem binder bolts i. Repeat adjustments as above until play disappears.
then secures the stem to the steering column to maintain the Remember to loosen stem bolts before turning adjusting
bearing adjustment and keep the stem in place and aligned. bolt in cap.
FIGURE 14.16 j. Check alignment of stem and tighten stem binder bolts fully.
Another test for play is to place the bike on the ground
and grab the front brake tightly. Press downward on the
handlebars and rock the bike forward and back. A knocking
sensation may indicate a loose headset. In effect, this does
the same thing as grabbing and pulling on the fork. However,
play in the brake caliper arms may cause a knocking. Front
suspension forks may also have play in the legs, which can
also cause knocking. Place one hand at top race and feel for
movement to confirm headset bearing play.
If a bearing adjustment cannot be found to be acceptable,
there may be other problems in the headset. Bearing surfaces
may be worn out; the ball bearing retainers may be upside
Threadless stem with (A) Top cap, (B) Adjusting bolt, (C) Star nut in column down; or a seal may be improperly aligned. If play always
If not already inspected during assembly, remove the top cap seems present no matter the adjustment, the steering column
to inspect the star nut or compression plug inside the steering may be too long and may be pressing into the top cap.
column. No bearing adjustment can occur if the top cap is Another source of play can be a loose press fit in either in
pressing on top of the steering column. Add an additional spacer the head tube or on the fork crown race. A loose press fit may
if the column is too long for the stem and spacer combination. be improved with a retaining compound. In extreme cases,
Procedure for threadless headset adjustment: the headtube of the bike can become elongated from abuse
a. Remove top cap bolt to inspect steering column length and impact. Consult a professional mechanic for options with
relative to cap. Lubricate bolt and reinstall cap and bolt damaged headtubes.
gently. Do not tighten cap bolt.
b. Loosen stem bolt(s) that secure stem to the steering THREADED HEADSET SERVICE
column. Lubricate these bolts if they are dry. Threaded headset bearing adjustment is held by two threaded
c. Wiggle the stem side to side to ensure it is loose. If pieces locked together. A threaded top locknut is tightened
the stem is jammed, rusted, or frozen to the steering down on a threaded bearing race. The bearing race often
column, no adjustment can be made. requires a narrow headset wrench such as the Park Tool HCW-15.
d. Straighten stem to front wheel and gently secure the The top locknut is taller and will accept wider wrenches such
top bolt inside top cap. Stop when resistance is felt as a large adjustable wrench. 30 mm, 32 mm, and 36 mm are
(figure 14.17). common headset wrench sizes for threaded headsets.
198
HEADSETS CHAPTER 14
FIGURE 14.18 of place. Dismantle the headset, reposition the bearings to

line up in the cup, and reassemble.
Procedure for threaded headset assembly:
a. Grease bearing retainers and bearing race cups. Grease
threads of steering column.
b. Install bearing retainers into upper and lower cup-
shaped races.
c. Install fork steering column through head tube.
d. Thread on top race.
e. Install spacers and accessories as appropriate.
f. Thread on locknut. Inspect that steering column does
not touch inner lip of locknut. Add spacers as necessary
to allow locknut to press on washers.
Drive stem binder downward to free stem from column
Procedure for threaded headset disassembly: THREADED HEADSET ADJUSTMENT
a. Leave front wheel in fork to act as a lever. Threaded headsets are adjusted using a top locknut
b. Loosen stem binder bolt. Attempt to move the stem by and threaded race. The stem has no effect on the bearing
twisting. If stem will not move, strike the top of the adjustment and does not need to be installed in order to
stem binder bolt with a hammer or mallet to free the adjust the bearings. Attempt to adjust the bearings so they
wedge (figure 14.18). Attempt to twist stem again. are as loose as possible but without play or knocking. To
c. Pull stem and handlebars from fork. achieve this, the following procedure will first create play in
d. Stand in front of bike and hold the wheel between your the adjustment. Proceed to incrementally tighten the race
knees while working with the locknut and race. until play is gone.
e. Hold lower threaded race with thin headset wrench. Procedure for threaded headset adjustment:
Loosen and remove top locknut with a second wrench. a. Install front wheel. Front wheel will act as a lever to hold
f. Remove front wheel. steering column.
g. Remove spacers or brackets from under the locknut after b. Make sure headset locknut is loose. Use a headset wrench
noting location and orientation. to hold threaded race.
h. Unthread and remove the threaded race. Note orientation c. By hand, turn threaded race clockwise until it contacts
of top bearing retainers. ball bearings. Turn race back counter-clockwise at least
i. Pull fork from bike and note orientation of lower ¼ turn from this setting. Hold threaded race with
bearing retainer, if any. Work with care as bearings may headset wrench and tighten locknut. Tighten locknut
unexpectedly fall from lower race. fully (figure 14.19).
j. Clean and inspect parts. FIGURE 14.19
Threaded headsets commonly use a spacer with a tab or
“tooth” on the inside diameter. This notch is designed to sit
inside a groove running vertically in the column. However,
these types of spacers will often rotate when the top locknut
is tightened, resulting in thread damage as the washer
rotates and the tab cuts into the threads. This is especially
the case when the spacer is made of steel and is relatively
thin. Inspect the threads of the fork. If any damage in the
threads is present, file off the spacer tab or get a new spacer
without a tab.
For non-cartridge bearing headsets, it is possible to replace
retainer ball bearings with loose ball bearings of the same
diameter. Loose balls, especially in the lower race, can move Hold adjusting race while tightening locknut
about which helps prevent the pitting that commonly ruins d. Check for play by pulling back and forth on fork. A
headsets. Installation and assembly with loose bearings is knocking sensation indicates play. Turn fork in different
more difficult. It is important that the bearings stay aligned directions while checking for play. There should be
in the cup as the headset is assembled. play in this early setting. If headset feels tight, loosen
To use loose ball bearings, grease cups to hold bearings. adjustment further until play is found.
Place balls into cup shaped races. Leave a gap equal to two to e. Grab front wheel between knees and hold it in line with
three ball bearings. Do not attempt to fully fill cup with ball top tube. Threaded race will need to be adjusted slightly
bearings. If possible, rotate bicycle upside down in the stand clockwise. Use a headset wrench to hold race and note
to assist assembly before installing fork. After assembly with orientation of wrench relative to front wheel.
loose ball bearings, rotate fork to check smooth rotation. Any f. Loosen locknut and rotate threaded race clockwise ¹⁄₁₆ to
popping or sudden change in feeling indicates a bearing out ⅛ turn relative to wheel.
CHAPTER 14 HEADSETS
g. Hold threaded race securely with wrench and tighten down to the EC34 standard or to reduce the EC34 standard
locknut fully. Check for play by rotating fork and moving down to the EC30. However, it is not possible to convert a
fork forward and back at different positions. bike upward. The head tube cannot accept a steering column
h. If play is present, repeat steps “e” and “f” above until play larger than it was designed to accept.
disappears. Adjustment is finished when there is no play in
any position, the fork rotates, and locknut is fully secure. HEADSET STACK HEIGHT
i. Reinstall stem, align, and tighten. Stack height is the amount of steering column length the
Another test for play is to place the bike on the ground headset will occupy (figure 14.20). Headsets vary between
and grab the front brake tightly. Press downward on the brand and model in amount of required stack height. The
handlebars and rock the bike forward and back. A knocking steering column is always longer than the head tube length,
sensation may indicate a loose headset. In effect, this does and the stack height of the headset must be compatible with
the same thing as grabbing and pulling on the fork. Play the frame head tube and steering column.
in the brake caliper arms may also cause knocking. Front Replacement headsets in both threaded and threadless
suspension forks may also have play in the stanchion and models will have the stack height listed on the box or
sliding legs, which can cause knocking. instructions. The manufacturer’s stated headset stack height
If an acceptable bearing adjustment cannot be found, there does not include the stem of threadless headsets, nor any
may be other problems in the headset. Bearing surfaces may sizing washers used to give extra rise to the stem. Generally,
be worn out; the ball bearing retainers may be upside down; when replacing a headset, select one of equal or smaller stack
or a seal may be improperly aligned. Another source of play height then the original headset. Using a headset with more
can be a loose press fit, either in the head tube or on the fork stack height than the original may result in the steering
crown race. If the headset seems well adjusted at one position column being too short for the bike.
but binds when rotated to another position, the head tube
may require facing to improve bearing alignment. Consult a PRESSED HEADSET REMOVAL
professional mechanic. Both the EC and ZS headset designs use pressed races or
adaptor cups in the headtube. These are removed when the
HEADSET REPLACEMENT & INSTALLATION headset is replaced. The IS headset designs use cartridge
Headsets may be replaced when worn or when upgrading FIGURE 14.21
to a better model. After installing the new headset, the
procedure for assembly and adjustment is the same as the
procedures above.
There are several standards for headsets found on bicycles.
A new headset must match the design of the bike. There are
many headset standards that do not interchange. Appendix
D, Headset Standards, reviews some of these standards. The
table is not exhaustive, as some unusual and proprietary
standards exist. It often necessary to remove the headset
to know exactly what standard is being used. If in doubt,
consult a professional mechanic for the correct standard for
your bike.
It is sometimes possible to use a smaller steering column Removing the slip fit integrated bearing from an IS headset
than the head tube was designed to use. Reducing rings are FIGURE 14.22
available and are pressed into the head tubes of the larger
standards. Reducers are available to size the EC56 head tube
FIGURE 14.20
Stack height is composed of: (A) lower stack height, (B) upper stack height &
(C) any spacers. Stem height (D) not included by headset manufacturers. Draw the Race Tool RT-1 or RT-2 through headtube small side first
200
HEADSETS CHAPTER 14
bearings that slip fit directly into the frame, and bearings are PRESSED HEADSET INSTALLATION
simply removed by hand (figure 14.21). The EC and ZS headset bearing races or adaptor cups require
Begin pressed headset replacement by removing the wheel, a press fit into the frame. The press fit is called also an
handlebars and fork as described in Headset Service. To remove “interference fit” and occurs when a part with a slightly larger
pressed races, use a race removal tool such as the Park Tool outside diameter is forced into another part with slightly
RT-1 Race Tool for EC29 to EC44 and ZS41 to ZS44 standards. smaller inside diameter. This creates tension between the
Use the larger RT-2 for the EC49 to EC56 and ZS44 to ZS56 parts and holds the parts tight. Generally, the difference in
headset cups. Install tool with smaller end first through the the headset press fit should be between 0.05 mm and 0.2 mm.
headset cup (figure 14.22). Squeeze sides of prongs and pull Use a caliper to measure and note the outside diameter of
tool fully into head tube. Do not press prongs with hand as the cups. Next measure the inside diameter of the headtube in
prongs will close and pinch flesh. A clicking sound will be two places; each 90 degrees from the other. Average the two
heard as tool prongs engage head tube cup. Inspect that tool ID readings (figure 14.25). The difference between the outside
prongs are engaged only against headset cups. diameter and inside diameter is the amount of interference
Use a steel hammer at the small end of the tool and drive fit. See Table 14.1 Interference Fit Guidelines.
cup from head tube (figure 14.23). Place removal tool with FIGURE 14.25
small end first through remaining cup and repeat process to
remove second race. A long punch can also be used to remove
the head tube races. Alternate tapping left to right to “walk”
out the race.
FIGURE 14.23
Measure and compare the inside diameter of the headtube to the

outside diameter of the headset cup or adaptor
If interference fit differences are too small, the headtube
cups or bearing adaptors will move in the frame. The
difference between the OD and ID might be zero, or even
Drive the race from the headtube with the race tool and a hammer worse, the ID may be larger then the OD. One solution is to
The old fork crown race must be removed from the fork. use a “retaining compound” in the press fit. This compound
Professionals will use the Park Tool CRP-2 Crown Race Puller. will expand and harden to increase the strength of the press
An alternative is to use a punch or other tool that will engage fit. Retaining compounds require clean, dry surfaces. For
race. In some cases this may scar the fork and crown race. removal, it is sometimes necessary to apply mild heat, such
Place the fork column downward on soft material such as as from an air gun or hair dryer, to soften and weaken the
wood to protect top of column. Using a hammer, tap race compound. Retaining compounds are available from better
alternately first on one side, then the other side, driving the home improvement centers, automotive part stores, and some
race off the crown seat (figure 14.24). bicycle retailers.
There are designs of carbon forks that have the fork race TABLE 14.1 Interference Fit Guidelines
molded directly into the fork. There is no removal or service of the
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN RACE
fork crown with these designs. The fork is ready to install as is. OUTSIDE DIAMETER AND HEAD RESULT AND ACTION REQUIRED
FIGURE 14.24 TUBE INSIDE DIAMETER
Too great of press fit difference.

0.26 mm or greater Ream head tube inside diameter to
improve fit.
0.1 mm to 0.25 mm Acceptable tolerances for press fit.
Unacceptably small interference.
Get a new race with larger diameter.
0.01 mm to 0.09 mm
It is also possible to use a retaining
compound.
No interference fit at all, headset
is smaller than head tube. Use a
0 mm or any negative number different race if possible. Retaining
compound may be tried if no other
Carefully tap alternate sides repeatedly to remove option is available.
CHAPTER 14 HEADSETS
Significant force is normally required to press headset races become extremely crooked, remove cup and re-press.
into the head tube. Additionally, the races should be pressed Ensure cups are fully pressed into head tube.
square to one another. It is best to use a bearing press (Park g. Inspect for full seating where cups meet frame. A gap
Tool HHP-2 or HHP-3 Bearing Press) for the head tube races. between the frame and cup indicates incomplete pressing
The HHP-2 Bearing Press comes with a pair of cup guides (figure 14.27).
(#530-2) to help maintain cup alignment during pressing. h. Remove headset press tool from bike. If pressing one cup
The cup guides fit most 1 inch and 1⅛ inch conventional at a time, repeat process for second cup.
headset races. If no guides are used press one part at a time
into the frame. FORK CROWN RACE INSTALLATION
Procedure for pressing of headtube races or cup adaptors: The fork crown race is pressed to a crown race seat at the
a. Determine the acceptability of the headset press fit as base of the steering column. Because the bearing race is
described above. smaller than the crown race seat of the fork, the bearing
b. For HHP-3, remove one handle and pressing washer. For race expands as it is pressed. The crown race seat should
HHP-2, remove sliding press plate. be larger than the race by only 0.05 mm to 0.15 mm. If the
c. When available, install headset cups onto guides. Press difference between the race and seat is too large, it may crack
only one cup at a time if guides are unavailable or if the bearing race. When the crown race seat is too large for
guides do not closely fit cups. the fork crown race, the crown race seat may be cut smaller.
d. Place upper headset cup on top of head tube and insert A professional mechanic will use a crown race seat cutter
headset press through cup and headtube. If pressing one such as the Park Tool CRC-1. If the crown race seat is nearly
cup at a time, install pressing washer and handle (for equal to or only slightly larger than the race (0.04 or smaller
HHP-3), or install sliding pressing plate (for HHP-2). difference) use a strong retaining compound.
e. For cups fitting headset cup guides, install lower cup and The fork crown race must be pressed to the fork crown.
install pressing washer and handle (for HHP-3), or install Determine acceptability of press fit as described above. The
sliding pressing plate (for HHP-2) (figure 14.26). Park Tool CRS-1 Crown Race Setter will drive on the race. Use
f. Turn handle of headset press slowly and inspect the CRS-15 for 1½ inch or 1¼ inch steering columns. Place
alignment of cups as they enter headtube. If cups race on fork crown and select most compatible Park Tool CRS
FIGURE 14.26 aluminum ring. Place ring on tool and insert over fork. Use
a steel hammer and strike top of tool until race fully seats
(figure 14.28). The sound of the hammering will change as it
seats. Inspect sides of race for full seating against fork.
There are some models of headsets using cartridge bearings
that use a lower race made with a split ring. The split ring
races are pressed on by hand. The split race does not directly
ride on the rotating bearings, it simply inserts into the
cartridge-bearing race.
FIGURE 14.28
Arrangement of cups and pressing guides for the HHP-2 Headset Press
FIGURE 14.27
Installing the fork crown race with a Crown Race Setter
FORK STEERING COLUMN SIZING

The steering columns on new forks are typically longer
than required, and the column is cut to fit the bike and rider.
This cup is not fully seated into headtube Threadless columns must be long enough to fit the stem and
202
HEADSETS CHAPTER 14
any required spacers. Threaded columns must be long enough FIGURE 14.29
to engage the threaded race, spacers, and locknut. Steering
columns that are too long may be susceptible to failure.
THREADLESS STEERING COLUMNS

Threadless steering column length limits height options for
the stem and handlebars. When installing a new fork, consider
where you would like the handlebars to be. It is possible to
cut a threadless column relatively long and to use spacers
under the stem to raise the bars. However, there are limits to
how far the stem can safely be raised above the headset. For
steel and aluminum steering columns, do not exceed 40 mm
between the stem and headset bearings. If more stem and
bar height is required, purchase a new stem with more height Make a reference mark on the column for cutting
and/or rise, or, alternatively, get a larger bike. stem. For carbon fiber fork columns, add at least a small
Carbon fiber steering columns also have limits on the amount (3 mm) to this mark. Spacers will be required
height of spacers between stem and headset. Generally, above the stem for carbon fiber columns.
manufacturers recommend no more than 30 mm additional e. Place fork inside saw guide. Loosely secure handle. Move
stack height between stem and upper race. Contact the fork saw guide opening over cut-mark on column and secure
manufacturer for limits in regards to your fork. handle. Place saw guide in vise. If no vise is available,
The column can also be purposely cut too long so that hold column in repair stand jaws.
extra spacers are stacked above the stem to allow for future f. Cut through column using proper hacksaw techniques
changes to height. However, too much exposed column above and a good blade (figure 14.30).
the stem can cause safety issues, potentially striking the g. Loosen saw guide handle and push column further into
rider during a crash. It is not necessary to have more column saw guide.
height above the stem than would allow the stem to be safely h. Steel and aluminum forks: Use a flat file to finish and
raised. In general, avoid cutting the column so long that it bevel end of column. Hold file at approximately a
requires more than 30 mm combined in spacers above and 45-degree angle to bevel the end of the column. Use a
below the stem. round file or deburring tool to remove the sharp inside
The safest and most practical method to determine column FIGURE 14.30
length is to install the fork first without cutting. Install
all desired spacers and stem. Mark the fork at the top for a
reference point for cutting. Remove fork from the bike. Use
a saw guide to produce a consistent square cut. For steel
hacksaw blades use the Park Tool SG-6 or SG-7.2 Saw Guide.
For the wider blades called “ceramic” or “carbon blades” use
the SG-8 Saw Guide.
Carbon fiber steering columns are best cut with a fine 32
TPI steel blade or a “ceramic” or “carbon blade.” Cut using
moderate pressure only, do not force the blade. Carbon dust
is a potential health risk due to the small size of the dust
particulates. Take normal precautions of wearing a dust
mask and working in a well ventilated area. Additionally, to Cut with pressure in the forward cut and do not force the blade
minimize dust from the carbon, keep the cutting area wet. Use into the column
a fine emery cloth to finish the end, again wetting the paper. FIGURE 14.31
Procedure for cutting of threadless steering columns:
a. Assemble steering column into the head tube with
bearings and parts in place. Install stem and all desired
spacers, including any spacers desired above the stem.
b. Press downward on stem to simulate an adjusted headset
and snug stem bolts. Remove what play you can. The
adjustment need not be perfect.
c. Mark the steering column at top of stem or topmost
spacer (figure 14.29).
d. Remove fork from bike. For aluminum or steel columns,
measure an additional 3 mm from your mark toward fork
crown, and re-mark the cut line at this point. This allows
the top of the column to sit slightly below the top of the Deburr and finish the end of the steering column
CHAPTER 14 HEADSETS
edge of the column (figure 14.31). Carbon fiber forks: flanges are slightly larger than the inside diameter of the
Column cuts can be finished with fine sand paper. fork column. The star nut is forced into the column and the
i. Remove fork from saw guide, wipe clean, and install flanges press and bite inside the column to hold the nut tight.
on bike. The star nut system is designed to not to move upward after
installation and cannot effectively be removed once installed.
Star Nut and Compression Plug Installation If a new star nut is needed in the column, use a large punch
Threadless headsets are adjusted with pressure on the and drive the first star nut down deeper into the column.
bearing races from the adjustment of the bolt in the top cap. This allows a new star nut to be installed on top of the old
The bolt is threaded into either a compression plug or a “star one. This system is not generally recommend for carbon fiber
nut” that engages the steering column (figure 14.32), pulling steering columns. Use a star nut on aluminum, steel, or
the steering column upward. titanium columns only.
FIGURE 14.32 To install a star nut, use a tool such as the Park Tool
TNS-1 or TNS-4 Threadless Nut Setter. The TNS-15 Threadless
Nut Setter will work for large 1½ inch diameter fork
columns. The tool will drive the star nut about 15 mm
(⁹⁄₁₆ inch) below the top of the steering column. This allows
the adjusting bolt to thread fully into the nut for bearing
adjustment pre-load. Mount the nut with concave side
toward tool thread. Hold TNS tool over steering column. Use
care to keep TNS tool aligned with the column. Tap squarely
on top of tool with a steel hammer. Continue until TNS-1 is
fully seated (figure 14.34).
The TNS-4 uses a sleeved guiding system to drive the star
nut into the column. Thread the star nut into the tool and
Compression plug on the left. Star nut with bolt and top cap on the right. slide the tool over the column (figure 14.35). Use a hammer
Compression plugs are a threaded system installed into the to drive down the mandrel until the star nut is fully seated.
steering column to hold the top cap bolt. A socket fitting FIGURE 14.34
is tightened to expand a friction plug inside the column.
An internal thread inside the plug accepts the M6 bolt from
the top cap. The plug diameter must be compatible with the
inside diameter of the steering column. The compression plug
recommended for carbon fiber steering columns is removable
and reusable.
To install a compression plug, begin by dismantling the unit
and lubricating the internal threads. Note orientation of cones
and wedges, and use care not to get grease or lubrication on
the outside surfaces of the plug. Insert plug into column and
tighten fully (figure 14.33).
The star nut features a series of concave metal flanges
surrounding a threaded nut. The outer diameter of the Using a stem to guide the TNS-1 and star nut straight with the column
Install compression plug and secure into fork column Drive the star nut down while guiding with the TNS-4
204
HEADSETS CHAPTER 14
THREADED STEERING COLUMNS e. Use a saw guide such as the Park Tool SG-1 Saw Guide
Threaded steering columns require enough thread on the (1 inch column), or SG-2 (1⅛ inch column) to ensure
column to allow the adjusting race to reach and press on the that the cut is square to the fork. Thread fork into
bearings. However, threading on the steering column should saw guide until it reaches desired cut length at the
never extend past the insertion depth of the quill stem. gap for the blade. Clamp the guide in a vise. If no vise
Cutting threads removes material and actually weakens the is available, hold column in repair stand jaws. Use a
column. However, the quill of the stem supports the steering hacksaw and cut fork.
column when installed, giving it extra strength in the threaded f. The threads at the end of the fork will require extra
section, especially where the column flexes when riding. finishing after the cut. Thread the fork farther into the
Procedure for cutting of threaded steering columns: guide to expose freshly cut threads. Hold a flat file at
a. Assemble the threaded fork in the bike with all spacers. approximately a 45-degree angle to bevel the threads at
b. Measure how much steering column extends past the top the end of the fork (figure 14.37). Rotate the fork into
spacer and write this number down. the file as the file is pushed forward. Use a round file to
c. Turn the locknut upside down and measure the amount finish the inside of the fork, removing any sharp edges
of depth of locknut to “lip” at the end of the nut. or burrs.
This is the amount of available threading in the nut. If no Park Tool Saw Guide is available, it is possible to use a
The steering column should not contact this inner lip steel threaded race as a saw guide. Thread race on column and
when the locknut is secured (figure 14.36). Deduct an measure exposed threads. Hold column in bike repair clamp.
additional millimeter from this number to allow a small Press race to clamp so it cannot move. Cut the column using a
gap between nut and column. hacksaw, holding the blade against the face of the race. Finish
d. Deduct the available threaded height in the locknut the cut with a file to bevel the end of the column.
from the amount of steering column extending past the Threaded columns often are made with a machined groove
spacers. For example, a steering column extends 27 mm running vertically along the threads. Threaded headsets may
above the spacers. The threaded locknut measures 7 mm include spacers with a tab or “tooth” on the inside diameter.
down to the lip. Deduct one millimeter from the nut, The groove is for this tooth. Shortening a fork may remove
making only 6 mm of threading available. Shorten the the groove. Do not attempt to extend or create a new groove
column by 21 mm. for the toothed washer. Simply file the tooth away or get a
new spacer without the tooth.
FIGURE 14.36
FIGURE 14.37
Cutaway of locknut on threaded column. Locknut lip should not

contact top of column. Bevel end of fork thread
15 Frame & fork
Frame & fork
CHAPTER 15 FRAME & FORK
T he frame and front fork form the skeleton of the bike

to connect the two wheels. The frame also supports the
rider and the various components of the bike. The front
fork allows the wheel to pivot, which permits steering. The
front wheel is designed to be in line with the rear wheel. As
the tire beyond the head tube. This gives bicycles their self-
steering ability.
The stress of riding tends to flex fork legs, which transmits
stress to the fork crown. This area of the bike experiences a
lot of stress, even from casual riding. Fork failure is especially
we ride, it is the rider’s balance that keeps the bike upright. dangerous because the results are often a loss of control and a
Like motorcycles, bicycles have a “self-steering” feature that wheel coming off the bike (figure 15.2).
helps the cyclist stay upright and maintain a straight line. A suspension fork will have moving parts that allow the
The bicycle is steered by leaning in combination with turning wheel to move relative to the bike when riding over uneven
the handlebars. terrain. For more discussion of suspension forks, see Chapter
16, Suspension.
FRAME COMPONENTS
The frame has different parts or sections (figure 15.1). HEAD TUBE
Bicycle designers will manipulate the length and angle of This is the frame tube that houses the fork’s steering column.
each section, tube, or tube junction to obtain certain ride Headset bearings are seated here to allow rotation and steering.
and handling characteristics. As an example, headtube angles Head tube length will affect handlebar height. The inside
differing by just one degree may cause two different bicycles diameter and design will determine the type of headset used.
to handle differently. Bicycle design is a complex topic
because there are many interacting variables, including the TOP TUBE
rider’s body and performance expectations. The top tube is the connection between the head tube
FIGURE 15.1 and the seat tube. The top tube is vitally important to bike
fit because the length will affect bar placement and rider
comfort. This tube sees relatively low stress and is typically
made lighter and thinner than other parts of the frame.
DOWN TUBE
This tube is the connection between the headtube and
bottom bracket. It also experiences stress from pedaling and
handling of the bike. It may also be fitted with water bottle
cage nuts or threads. The common fitting on modern bicycles
is the “pemnut,” which is fitted into the tubing and then
expanded to permanently install it (figure 15.3).
FIGURE 15.3
The parts of the frame
FORK
The fork is the connection between the front wheel and
main triangle of the frame. Fork dropouts hold the wheel at
the end of the fork blades.
Fork blades meet at the fork crown, which attaches to the
steering column. The steering column passes through the
head tube and is supported by the headset bearing system.
Forks vary in length to fit specific sizes of wheels. The fork
will also have a “rake” or offset that puts the contact patch of
FIGURE 15.2
Cross section of down tube showing “pemnut” in place
SEAT TUBE
The seat tube connects the bottom bracket to the saddle
or seat post. Frames are generally sized according to the seat
tube length. The seat tube may also be fitted with water
bottle mounts and a fitting or brackets for the front derailleur.
CHAIN STAY
These connect the rear dropouts to the bottom bracket and
see a relatively high amount of stress from riding. The length
of the stay is designed for the type and size of wheel used as
Bent front fork blades well as for bicycle performance.
208
FRAME & FORK CHAPTER 15
SEAT STAY attached to the main frame with bearings. A spring system
This is the connection from the rear dropouts to the seat keeps the swing arm extended and allows it to pivot. Bearing
tube. These two tubes see less stress than the chain stays design in the swing arm is generally proprietary and bearing
but still support the bike over the rear wheel. The rear service varies with each model.
brake caliper, either rim or disc, is commonly mounted to
the seat stays. FRAME CONSTRUCTION & SERVICE
Frame material may be steel, aluminum, titanium, carbon
DROPOUTS fiber, magnesium, special plastics, or a combination of any
Dropouts are the fittings at the end of the front fork and of the above. Each type of material has different properties,
the rear stays that accept the hubs and wheels. Traditionally, which will affect the ride of the bike. All these materials flex
the front dropouts accept a 9 mm axle, while the rear to varying degrees under load or stress. Additionally, each
dropouts accept a 10 mm axle (figure 15.4). Through-axle material will require different manufacturing processes and
dropouts on downhill and freeride bikes may use a 12 mm will have limits for repairability.
axle in the rear and a 20 mm axle or a 15 mm axle in the Like any mechanical part subjected to stress, the frame may
front. There are also proprietary dropout designs made to fit fail. If the frame was poorly designed, improperly constructed,
unique hub/frame systems. or simply subjected to excessive loads and abuse, cracks and
FIGURE 15.4 bends can occur.
Regardless of the material, when a frame fails it tends to
fall apart at the tubing joints. These are the areas where
stress is concentrated. In some cases, a joint may be poorly
made, or the design may simply be too weak for the use.
Failure may also be the result of a crash. Tubing joints may
suddenly yield, or weaken, and begin cracking or failing. The
repeated stress of riding creates a stress cycle: loading and
unloading of the part. This may, in time, cause cracks and
eventually, failure. A severe impact or crash may bend metal
frame tubes. Repair by simply re-bending the deformed tubing
is typically impractical and will create a stress riser or weak
spot in the area of the repair without further heat treatment.
Rear vertical dropouts Bicycle frames are best inspected during cleaning. Most
types of paint tend to be somewhat brittle and will crack if
BOTTOM BRACKET SHELL the material has moved under it (figure 15.6). This is often a
This is a short tube between the cranks that holds the sign of failure or future failure. Cracked paint may simply be
bottom bracket bearings. It is connected to the down tube, paint coming off the surface or poor paint bonding. Inspect to
the seat tube, and the chainstays. Traditionally, this has an confirm a failure or crack and consult a professional mechanic
internal threading for attaching and adjusting the bearing if in doubt.
cups (figure 15.5). The shell width may be 68, 70, 73, 85, FIGURE 15.6
or 100 mm depending upon the design. There are also
unthreaded designs that use pressed bearings.
SWING ARM
A swing arm is the rear part of the frame of some full
suspension bicycle designs. These function as moveable stays
that react to impact on the rear wheel. The swing arm is
FIGURE 15.5
Bent metal on down tube from impact
STEEL
Different types of welding typically join steel tubing. Tubes
may be fitted into a lug, and then brazed or welded with
alloys of silver or with brass. Tubes can also be mitered and
welded by sophisticated electrical welding known as “tig” or
“mig” welding (figure 15.7). Steel frames are susceptible to
Threaded bottom bracket shell rust or oxidation. Water inside the frame and lack of paint
CHAPTER 15 FRAME & FORK
Welding of a steel frame (Photo credit Independent Fabrication®) A suspicious paint crack in a carbon fiber frame
can worsen issues of rust, even to the point of frame failure. Carbon fiber is susceptible to sudden failure from the
It is also recommended to use grease or an anti-seize on any stresses of riding and impacts of crashing. Because each
threaded or press fit frame fitting, such as bottom bracket manufacturer uses different wraps and different materials it
threads or headtubes. A good frame builder is able to repair is difficult to draw broad guidelines as to when to replace a
some failures in a steel frame. In welded steel frames, tubing carbon frame. When in doubt, contact the manufacturer.
can sometimes be replaced. Carbon fiber may develop a stress crack from use, especially
if the material was under-designed. Like other materials, this
ALUMINIUM is typically where tube shapes come together. Look for long
Aluminum is a very common material for many uses and cracks in the paint or in the epoxy matrix (figure 15.8).
is easily worked and welded. Aluminum frames may also Another type of carbon fiber failure is from impact or from
be bonded together with lugs and adhesive. Aluminum is a puncture. Carbon fiber material is aptly named because it
relatively lightweight metal but can require more material to is a “fiber,” and punctures and cracks cause a “tear” in the
match the strength of steel. Aluminum does not rust exactly carbonized cloth. Damaged tubing will resonate differently
like steel but can corrode. This results in pitting and corrosion at the failure or tear. Use a coin or spoke to tap the tubing
products on the surfaces. The consequence is that components along a section of good tubing, noticing the type of sound
such as seat posts or bearing cups may seize in an aluminum it makes. The pitch will rise and fall along the length of the
frame. As with steel, it is useful to use grease or anti-seize tube depending upon the size of the tubing. By comparison,
when installing components. Local repair to aluminum frames in a damaged carbon fiber frame, the sound will suddenly
is difficult because of the special skills needed and the need change and become deadened at the point of failure because
for heat treatment of the frame after welding. the fibers are compromised at that point (figure 15.9).
Repair of damaged carbon fiber is difficult but not
TITANIUM impossible. New carbon fiber laminate can, in some cases, be
Titanium is a very strong material, but it can be difficult laid up over the failure with epoxy resins. Heat is applied to
and expensive to work and shape. It is hard to form it to cure the matrix and the result is refinished for a good look.
the desired shape. Titanium is commonly welded for bicycle This repair should be left to professionals.
frames. There is very little issue with corrosion, but greasing FIGURE 15.9
the fittings is still recommended. Local repair of titanium is
difficult due to the special skills and equipment involved.
CARBON FIBER
Carbon fiber is a fabric material held in place by epoxies,
called the “matrix.” The carbon cloth or fabric is laid into a mold
and the matrix applied. This can create tubes or entire sections
of the frame. When carbon fiber tubing is joined, it is often with
a thermal-set epoxy. Often the carbon fabric will be laid up with
fittings or metal tubing to add strength or to allow installation
of components. For example, carbon fiber is a poor material for
threading, so metal inserts are installed for threaded parts such
as the bottom bracket or water bottle fittings. Tap tubing and listen for deadened sound indicating cracks in fiber
210
16 Suspension
Suspension
CHAPTER 16 SUSPENSION
B icycle suspension refers to a system of pivots, levers,

sliders, and even tires, all parts of the bicycle that allow
the rider to maintain a steady line or path on unsteady
terrain. “Rigid” (non-suspension) bicycles have no pivots or
linkage. If a rider uses any kind of suspension system, the
of force to compress a spring one inch, the spring rate is 400
pounds per inch.
Many systems allow the rider to set the spring rate.
Whatever type of spring is used, it is generally better to use
the lowest spring rate possible. Softer springs reduce the
wheels can track the terrain independently of the cyclist. impact to the bike and suspension system. Softer springs also
Suspension on any vehicle allows the wheels to move up and allow more of the suspension travel to be used.
down to accommodate bumps and dips in the trail or road. The following are several spring systems in use on bicycles.
Suspension can improve both rider comfort and performance.
Suspension systems provide more “forgiveness” for the rider’s HELICAL COMPRESSION SPRINGS
errors as they choose the best line off-road. Commonly called “coil” springs, these are typically made of
For many years, spring systems have been used for steel and are common on car suspension systems. Coil springs
suspending forks and even saddle rails. A stress or load are common on rear suspension systems (figure 16.2). Metal
flexes the spring, and the spring returns all the energy used springs generally are not affected by changes in temperature.
to flex it as it moves back. Damped suspension systems Coil springs have consistent compression rates.
are now common in off-road forks (figure 16.1). These are FIGURE 16.2
telescoping forks that use a spring system to keep the entire
fork extended with the lower legs sliding on the upper legs. A
damping system in the legs reduces the speed of the fork leg
return by consuming the energy of the impact.
FIGURE 16.1
Helical compression spring from a shock fork
ELASTOMER AND RUBBER SPRINGS

Elastomer and rubber springs are similar to steel helical
springs because they have fairly consistent or linear spring
Suspension fork compressing from the impact rate. The spring rate can vary with different types of polymer
The movements of a suspension system can be split up into and other synthetic compounds. Unlike steel springs,
two basic actions: compression and extension (also called elastomer spring rates tend to change with temperature.
rebound). Compression of the suspension results from the Colder temperatures stiffen polymers, and this will raise
upward motion of the wheel(s) from the road or trail. The spring rates and make them stiffer. Elastomer springs can be
compression phase occurs due to a load or impact. The spring found inside shock forks and on some suspension seat post
system compresses, which momentarily stores energy. systems (figure 16.3).
The extension phase dictates the downward returning
motion of the wheels. Extension is the downward motion of AIR (GAS) SPRINGS
the wheel(s) toward the terrain. When the force stored in the Air can also be used as a spring in suspension systems (figure
spring by compression is greater than the load put on it, the 16.4). Gas, usually ambient air, is contained in a sealed cylinder
spring extends and returns all the energy it has stored. In FIGURE 16.3
other words, a tightened spring wants to relax. This relaxation
is the extension phase.
Suspension systems are built with “sag.” The weight of the
cyclist partially compresses the suspension system to create
sag, often just by sitting on the bike. This is desirable because
it allows for extension of the wheel into dips and depressions
as well as compression by bumps. The ride height of the bike
also changes with the amount of sag.
SPRING SYSTEMS
Spring systems in shocks have a “spring rate” (deflection
rate). This is the amount of force that is required to compress
a spring a given amount. For example, if it takes 400 pounds Elastomer spring system on a suspension seat post
214
SUSPENSION CHAPTER 16
Air shock being charged with pump Internal damping system of a shock fork
with a piston to compress the gas. The gas pressure can be Stiffer compression damping means the suspension linkage
raised or lowered for changes in spring rate. Assuming the moves less, and there will be less compression of the springs.
temperature remains constant, the spring rate of gas tends to More energy is transmitted to the rider and makes a harsher
be progressive. As the suspension system is compressed, the air ride. A lighter damping setting will allow the linkage to
is pushed into a smaller space, and the spring rate increases. move relatively easily, but too light of a setting can cause
Both outside air temperature and the working temperature the system to bottom out on large or even moderate impacts,
of the unit will affect the spring rate of gas springs. Colder jolting the rider and the bike.
temperatures reduce the pressure of the gas, and lower the The rear shock is removed for service. The procedure
spring rate. Warmer temperatures will cause the gas to expand may vary somewhat between designs. When in doubt take
and raise the spring rate. notes and pictures on the original situation. For air shocks,
use a shock pump and take a measurement of the current
SHOCKS (DAMPERS) air pressure for reference. For spring shock, measure the
A more precise term for “shock” is damper. An example of amount of compression on the spring. Use a tape measure to
this suspension type is a car with coil or leaf springs and a measure spring length or count the number of turns from the
separate damper unit. Generally, the cycling industry uses compression ring, as it is unthreaded. Unthread the forward or
the word “shock” to mean both spring and damper. This upper pivot bolt, taking careful note of the orientation of any
integrated system of steel spring and damper is also seen on washers, spacers, and bushings. Unthread next and remove the
some bicycle suspension units (Figure 16.5). lower or rear pivot bolt, again noting orientation of any parts.
FIGURE 16.5
SUSPENSION LINKAGES
The design of suspension linkage systems should permit the
wheels to move only up and down in the vertical plane. If the
wheel is allowed to move side to side while the suspension is
working, the ride will be unpredictable and good handling will
be sacrificed.
On rear suspension bikes, the rear wheel is connected to the
rest of the bike with a moveable “swing arm” (figure 16.7).
The swing arm is the back end of the bike. Typically the chain
stays and seat stays act as a unit, which is bolted to the main
triangle by pivots. The placement and design of the pivots
FIGURE 16.7
Rear shock on full suspension bike
Damping systems are designed to help control motion
(figure 16.6). A common place to see damping is on
automatic, self-closing doors. As you push the door open, a
spring is worked (either expanding or contracting). When you
let go, the spring forces the door back closed, but it closes
slowly because there is a damper to slow its return.
Damping in suspension shocks can occur both on the
compression cycle and on the extension cycle. With simple
dampers, the amount of damping is the same for both
compression and extension. Sophisticated shock systems will
be adjustable for the different amounts of compression and
extension damping. Swing arm system of a full suspension bike
CHAPTER 16 SUSPENSION
will affect performance. The rear wheel is allowed to swing When tuning a system, attempt to change one variable at
independently of the main frame. As the rear wheel moves a time. Tuning is considered a skill acquired with experience
upward, some of the force that would throw the bike upward and time. This type of work can be slow and tedious at first,
is stored in the swing arm spring. The forces involved are the but with experience you will learn which procedures work in
same with a rigid bike, but the effect on a suspension bike each scenario and which don’t. For example, a stiff rear swing
and rider is spread out over time. The impact to the rider is arm tends to tip the bike forward and compress the front
reduced, and the wheels stay closer to the trail surface. fork. In a series of bumps, it might appear to the rider that
the fork is too stiff, but this may be an illusion caused by too
SERVICE & TUNING much preload on the fork from the transfer of force from the
Play or lateral movement can develop in both front and stiff rear end.
rear systems. In telescopic front fork systems, bushings are There are many aspects that affect the handling of a
used to allow the outer legs to travel over the upper tubing. bike. Some of these will be very adjustable, others will be
With use and time, play may develop in the bushings, which more or less fixed. Changes to handling may be affected by
degrades handling. the following:
Some rear suspension linkage systems move on pivots. Some
pivots use an adjustable bushing system. Play can be adjusted SPRING PRELOAD
out by tightening a bolt or nut. Other systems use replaceable Preload is typically the easiest thing to change in a system.
washers, but a few systems have no provision for removing Most companies design ways to change spring preload, such
wear or play. as by increasing air pressure or by compressing or relaxing the
The rear shock can be removed from the rear linkage. This steel/elastomer spring.
permits service of the shock and for the testing of the linkage
pivots. Begin by removing rear wheel. If the shock has a FLUID VISCOSITY
coil spring, measure the amount the spring is compressed. Some damper designs allow for changing the suspension
Unthread the coil spring nut. For air sprung shocks, measure fluid to different viscosities. This will affect damping. A fluid
air pressure and then deflate. This permits the bike to be with a higher viscosity rating (thicker) will move more slowly
returned to the previous settings. Inspect the shock at the through porting in the shock system. This has a tendency
upper and lower eyelets. Remove the upper eyelet bolt. Push to slow rebound. Fluid with a lower viscosity rating is more
bushing from eyelet. fluid and moves more quickly through the holes in the ports.
With the shock removed from the frame, test the pivots of Consult a professional mechanic for fluid changes.
the linkage for smoothness and for play. Move the rear end up
and down, feeling for problems such as sticking. Pull the rear VALVING
end of bike side to side to test pivot play. If there is access to a hydraulic system’s valving, there
Rear suspension bushings or sleeves may also be pressed may be changes that can be made to affect the flow of oil.
into a fitting in the frame and suspension system (figure Polishing ports, drilling new ports, or changing internal spring
16.8). These are usually brand specific diameters and widths, tensions are all done by professional mechanics.
and this typically requires the use of brand specific tool
and parts for servicing. A professional mechanic should be LINKAGE
consulted for bushing replacement. Some designs of full suspension systems have different
Tuning the suspension system is making modifications to positions for strut mounts and shock mounts. This changes
change handling for the rider. Designers attempt to make the the leverage of the wheel over the shock. By doing this,
bike and its suspension system useable by a wide range of vehicles can be changed to better suit the racing situation.
riders. The system may need adjustment, however, to suit a
rider’s particular expectations. CYCLIST POSTURE
FIGURE 16.8 The cyclist’s posture and position on the bike greatly
influence weight distribution and hence the bike’s handling.
Moving the saddle rails forward or back; raising or lowering
the saddle; changing the stem’s length, height, or angle; or
any combination of these alters weight distribution and the
vehicle’s center of gravity and response to steering forces.
TIRE CONTACT
An often-overlooked source of suspension and handling
is the tires. Tire width, casing, rubber tread design, and air
pressure have a large influence on handling of any bike.
A harder tire firms the suspension. A softer tire gives the
bike more give on rough terrain. Many racers say the best
Bearings inside linkage pivot suspension on any bike is between the wheels and the ground.
216
17 On-ride repair
On-ride repair
CHAPTER 17 ON-RIDE REPAIR
M echanical problems can and do occur while riding on the

trail or road. The best way to prevent these problems
is to regularly clean, lubricate, and inspect the bike.
Keeping your bike well maintained will prevent many of the
mechanical problems described below, even when riding off-road.
contigency. A paper dollar bill, for example, provides little
holding strength for a cut tire. Always replace the tire as soon
as possible.
BROKEN SPOKE
The only permanent repair for a broken spoke is to replace
TOOL CHOICES the spoke and re-true the wheel (see page 61, Broken &
Should problems arise, be prepared by carrying a few tools. Damaged Spoke Replacement). If a single spoke is broken,
When selecting tools for the ride, consider the type of bike the lateral true can be improved by loosening the two spokes
components being used by you and others in your group. immediately adjacent to the broken one. This will somewhat
Consider the weight of the tools and the amount of space bring the wheel back into lateral true. It may be possible to
available for carrying. Your budget and level of mechanical continue the ride. If the wheel has 28 or fewer spokes, having
skill will also affect your choice of tools. one spoke missing or broken may make the wheel unsafe
There are numerous possibilities for tool options and pre- to use. Bent spokes, even severely bent ones, are less of a
packaged tools kits. One versatile tool choice is the “multi- problem. If the wheel is still adequately true, continue the
tool.” These contain several tools, including hex wrenches, ride. True the wheel as necessary, and then replace the spokes
screwdrivers, spoke wrenches, tire levers, and others in one after the ride. See page 56, Truing Procedures.
unit. This type of tool is compact and cost-effective. You may
assemble your own take-along kit of tools. The list below DENTED RIM
outlines recommended tools for a typical MTB or road ride. Rims can become dented from striking objects on the
TABLE 17.1 Take-Along Tools ground. First determine the extent of the dent. If the braking
is not badly affected, it may be best to leave it alone and
ITEM DESCRIPTION PARK TOOL
finish the ride. Have the rim repaired or replaced after the
Multi-Tools MTB-3.2, MTB-7, IB-3 ride. With rim caliper brakes, severe dents will be felt during
Chain Tool CT-5, CT-6.2, IB-3 braking and may lock up the wheel unexpectedly. A badly
Tire Levers TL-1, TL-4, TL-6
dented rim can also affect the seating of the tire head. In
either of these cases, it is best to not ride the bike.
Patch Kit VP-1, GP-2
Spoke Wrench SW-7, or purchased to fit BROKEN CHAINS
Screwdriver MTB-3.2, MTB-7, IB-1, IB-2, IB-11, IB-12 A broken chain can usually be shortened as an emergency
Portable Tire Pump PMP-3, PMP-4, PMP-5 repair. If you have extra links, these may be added, but the
chain will be compromised and should be replaced with a
Tire Boot TB-2
new chain as soon as possible. Note that outer plates must
be joined to inner plates and remove links accordingly. If the
REPAIR PROCEDURES chain was shortened, use care not to shift into the largest
Repairs made during the ride have some limitations. The rear sprocket and largest front chainring combination. The
right tools or parts are not always available. Some bikes can most common cause for a broken link is improper installation.
simply be flipped upside down to work on them, but be careful When installing a chain, inspect all pins and links to prevent
to not damage shift and brake levers or housing. Additionally, on-the-ride chain problems. Additionally, if a chain has
some hydraulic brake systems should not be turned upside broken on a ride, inspect all rivets and links after repairing. If
down. If it is necessary to turn a hydraulic brake system upside there was one bad link, there are likely to be more. For chain
down, allow it to sit upright several minutes after the repair, link cutting, see page 98, Chain Removal.
then test the brake to insure no air has entered the brake lines.
The following text outlines problems that may occur on the CHAIN SUCK
ride and gives suggestions for addressing them. If a repair Chain suck occurs when a chainring will not release the
seems questionable, walk the bike home or call for a lift. Do chain at the six o’clock position. The chain gets stuck
not ride an unsafe bike. on a tooth and continues upward with the chainring and
eventually jams into the frame. If it is not too jammed, grasp
FLAT TIRE the chain at the bottom, and pull down while turning the
Always carry a spare tube. On long rides or big group rides, crank backwards. Scarring of the paint and frame is likely.
carry two tubes if possible. A patch kit is also essential If pulling the chain will not dislodge it, it may be possible
(see page 17, Inner Tube Repair). To clean the tube before to disconnect a link of chain, unthread the chain from the
patching, carry a foil sealed alcohol wipe. These are available frame, and reinstall correctly. The last option is to remove the
in drug stores. right crank, which requires a crank puller. Inspect the chain
after pulling it free. The chain may have become twisted or
CUT OR RIPPED TIRE damaged. Inspect the chainring teeth as well, which may be
Use a tire boot such as the Park Tool TB-2 (see page 19, the cause of the problem. If a tooth is bent, avoid using that
Temporary Repair of Tire with Tire Boot). Plan ahead for this chainring if possible.
220
ON-RIDE REPAIR CHAPTER 17
TWISTED CHAIN BROKEN DERAILLEUR BODY, CAGE, OR HANGER

Chains can twist from being shifted into the spokes or If the rear derailleur body, pulley wheel cage, or derailleur
from jamming against the frame during chain suck. It may be hanger has broken, shifting is no longer possible. The bike may
possible to twist the chain back using a pair of pliers, but it be converted to a single-speed to get back home (figure 17.2).
is difficult to do so by hand. Isolate the twisted section and FIGURE 17.2
use the rear cog to hold one end of the chain. Twist the chain
back using pliers at the end of the twist. Replace the chain as
soon as possible after the ride.
SQUEAKY AND NOISY CHAIN

A squeaky chain is caused by the lack of lubrication in the
links. It is usually not necessary to carry chain lubricant on
shorter rides if the chain has been lubricated as part of regular
maintenance. If the ride is especially wet, the lubricant may
wash away. In this case, almost anything that will penetrate
the link will provide some temporary lubrication. Sunscreen
oils or creams, bug repellent creams, and cooking oils can
provide some short-term relief from a noisy chain. Clean and Bypass derailleur to create a makeshift single-speed
lubricate the chain properly after the ride. Procedure for single-speed conversion:
a. Remove the chain. For removal procedures see page 98,
REAR DERAILLEUR SHIFTING Chain Removal.
INTO THE SPOKES OR FRAME b. Remove the derailleur or other affected parts.
This problem is typically the result of improper limit screw c. Choose a gear. For triple chainring bikes, use the middle
settings. The limits of the rear derailleur act as a stop to the ring and one of the middle rear sprockets. For two
derailleur body. If the derailleur or derailleur hanger is bent, chainring bikes, use the smallest ring.
the previous limit screw settings will no longer be appropriate. d. Run the chain from the chosen rear sprocket to
View the derailleur from the back and sight that the pulley the front chainring and determine the correct pin
wheels are parallel to the cogs. If the derailleur hanger or pulley to remove in order to shorten the chain. It may be
cage appears to be pushed inward toward the spokes, something necessary to change rear sprocket choices to get better
has been bent. It may be possible to pull the derailleur back. chain tension.
Insert a hex wrench in the mounting bolt and pull upward until e. Cut the chain and connect the links. The chain should be
the derailleur appears parallel with sprockets (figure 17.1). tight enough so it does not come off the front sprocket.
Check shifting and reset H-limit screw and L-limit screw f. Rotate the pedals backwards by hand slowly, and bounce
as necessary. Take the bike to a professional shop for proper the chain up and down, keeping your fingers on the
hanger alignment after the ride, or see page 130, Derailleur outside of the chain loop, to check tension.
Hanger Alignment and Repair to do it yourself.
FIGURE 17.1 MISSING DERAILLEUR PULLEYS
Look for missing parts on the trail or road behind you if
possible. If the parts are not available, convert to a single-speed
as described above in Broken Derailleur Body, Cage, or Hanger.
FRONT DERAILLEUR CAGE BENT OR TWISTED

The front derailleur cage can get twisted if a chain jams
during a shift or if it is struck. Realign the cage if it has
twisted (see page 116, Front Derailleur). Outer cage should
be approximately parallel with the chainrings. The derailleur
may not properly shift after the realignment, so select the
preferred chainring and use cable tension or limit screws to
keep the derailleur on that chainring.
Bend hanger back until visually straight
CRANK FALLING OFF

DERAILLEUR NOT INDEXING PROPERLY If the crank has completely fallen off, the bolt may be
The most common cause for derailleurs not indexing missing. In this case, walk the bike back. It is dangerous
properly is poor derailleur cable tension adjustment. Apply to attempt riding it with the arm simply shoved back in
the same skills and procedures as with routine derailleur place. If you have the bolt, reinstall the arm. The torque
adjustment (see page 124, Rear Derailleur). Have someone for crank bolts is relatively high, around 300 inch-pounds.
hold the bike by the saddle while you pedal by hand, and Basically, tighten as much as you feel the tool will be able
make adjustments to the barrel adjuster. to withstand.
CHAPTER 17 ON-RIDE REPAIR
PEDALS FALLING OFF broken brake cable until it can be disposed of properly. For
A loose pedal may be secured with a correct fitting brake cable installation, see page 171, Cable System.
wrench. If there is a hex fitting behind the pedal threads,
tighten it use the correct hex wrench, either a 6 mm or TWISTED OR BENT HANDLEBARS OR STEM
8 mm. If no wrench is available, it is best to walk the bike. Handlebars may become misaligned from crashing. To realign,
Riding with a loose pedal in the crank may cause the thread stand in front of the bike and grab wheel firmly between knees.
to pull out of the arm, resulting in a catastrophic crash for Loosen stem binder bolt(s) and pull stem back into alignment
the rider. until bars appear parallel with front hub and stem is aligned
with wheel. Re-secure binder bolt(s). It will likely be necessary
BENT CRANK to readjust the headset if the binders of a threadless stem are
If a bike has crashed with much force, the crank may bend. loosened. For headset adjustment, see page 198, Threadless
The pedal surface and your foot will then oscillate as the bike Headset Adjustment. It is possible to ride with a slight
is ridden. If the crank clears the frame, it is best to finish the misalignment in the bars. If the crash has actually bent the bars
ride by riding lower gears and going slowly. Replace the arm. or twisted the stem, it is best not to continue riding. A bent bar
If the crank does not clear the fame, walk the bike or get a or stem may fail without warning. Replace it as soon as possible.
ride. Attempting to re-bend a bent arm may lead to eventual
failure of the part and another crash. BENT FRAME OR FORK
Very severe crashes may bend either the frame or fork.
BOTTOM BRACKET LOOSE OR FALLING APART Inspect the frame, especially behind the head tube. Look
Depending on the specific bottom bracket, there may be for paint cracks and wrinkles in the metal, indicating bent
very little repair that is possible. It is impractical to carry frame tubing (figure 17.3). If the frame is bent, it should be
bottom bracket tools on the ride. If the bottom bracket is so considered unsafe. Do not ride this bike.
loose that the cranks strike the frame, do not ride the bike. Fork blades and fork crowns can also bend. View the bike
from the side to see if the alignment looks odd. Again, a bent
BROKEN DERAILLEUR CABLE fork makes the bike unsafe to ride.
If a derailleur cable has become frayed between the lever FIGURE 17.3
and cable pinch bolt, it is more likely to fail. Avoid using the
derailleur if possible. Broken gear cables usually mean a non-
functioning derailleur.
If a front derailleur cable has broken and a spare is not
available, consider the remainder of the ride, then choose the
most comfortable chainring for completing the ride. Typically
the middle chainring is best for a triple crankset. For a
double-chainring bike, select the smaller ring. Pull the cage
up to the middle ring by hand and tighten the L-limit screw.
For rear derailleurs, again consider the remainder of the ride.
Choose one of the middle cogs and tighten the H-limit screw
to hold the derailleur in that position.
Broken cables will tend to get caught in moving parts. Remove Bent frame at head tube
the old cable and store until it can be disposed of properly.
BENT SADDLE OR SEAT POST
BROKEN BRAKE CABLE If the saddle has come loose on the post, it may simply be
Do not attempt to patch together broken brake cables. If the realigned and tightened. For saddle security, see page 188,
cable were to fail again when needed, the consequences could Saddle and Seat Post Adjustment. If the clamp is broken, it will
be disastrous. Ride the remainder of the ride with caution, be difficult to repair away from home. In this case, remove both
and replace the cable as soon as possible. Walk the bike entire seat post and the saddle. Simply removing the seat and
rather than ride if in doubt as to safety. Remove and store the leaving the post installed is inviting an accident to happen.
222
18 Reference Materials
APPENDIX A TOOL LIST
A TOOL LIST
The tool list below will stock a very complete “home retail bicycle shop would use. There are often several choices
mechanic shop.” The list does not duplicate a professional for a particular piece of equipment. It will be necessary to
shop. For example, there are no bottom bracket taps, head research these choices to make the best decision for your
tube reaming tools, and other tools a full service center at a specific circumstances.
TABLE A.1 Tool List

✓ TOOL PRODUCTS INFORMATION
General Tools
Bicycle Repair Stand PCS-9, PCS-10, PRS-20, PRS-21, PRS-25 The stand forms the base of any good shop
Socket and Bit Set SBS-1 ⅜ inch drive socket bit set with metric and Torx® bits
For use on small threads, use TW-1 or TW-5
Torque Wrench TW-1, TW-2, TW-5, TW-6
For larger threads and torques, use TW-2 or TW-6
Hex Wrench Set AWS-10, HXS-2.2, PH-1
Torx® Wrenches TWS-2, PH-T1 Star-shaped wrenches for bolts using Torx® heads
Shop Apron SA-1, SA-3
³⁄₁₆ and ¼ inch Straight Blade
Screwdriver Set SD-SET
#0 and #2 Phillips
Hammer HMR-4 Double-ended, steel and plastic
Needle Nose Pliers NP-6
Diagonal Side Cutting Pliers SP-7
Combination Wrenches MW-SET.2 Box end with open end on other side (6-17 mm)
Bottom Bracket Tools
Lockring Wrench HCW-5 Fits most lockring types for adjustable square BBs
Adjustable Cup Tool SPA-1 Adjustable type bottom brackets
Fixed Cup Tool, 36 mm HCW-4 Adjustable type bottom brackets
Fits 20-tooth internal spline cups such as on Shimano® cartridge BBs,
Cartridge Bottom Bracket Tool BBT-22
FSA®, and Race Face® ISIS Drive bottom brackets
External Bottom Bracket Wrench BBT-9, BBT-19 Shimano® Hollowtech® II
Hollowtech® II Crank Cap Tool BBT-10 Adjusts bearing load for Shimano® Hollowtech® II cranks
Bottom Bracket Lockring Tool BBT-7 Shimano® XTR® and Dura-Ace® lockrings (adjustable type bottom brackets)
Bottom Bracket Tool BBT-18 Fits 8-notched bottom bracket cups, ISIS Drive of Truvativ® and Bontrager®
Bottom Bracket Tool BBT-30.3 BB30 and PF30 service

Bottom Bracket Tool BBT-90.3 BB86 and BB90 service
Bottom Bracket and Crankset Tool CBP-3, CBP-5 Campagnolo® Ultra-Torque® and Power Torque™ service
Headset Tools
32 mm and 36 mm open end wrench in eight-point for threaded headsets;
Headset Locknut Wrench HW-2, PAW-12
wrench wraps to fit all points
Headset Lower Race Wrench HCW-15 32 mm and 36 mm for threaded steering columns
Headset Press HHP-2, HHP-3
Fork Crown Race Setter CRC-1
Star Nut Setter TNS-4, TNS-1
Saw Guide for Steering Columns SG-6, SG-8
Hub Tools
Axle Vise AV-1, AV-5 Holds axles without damaging threads
Cone Wrenches SCW-SET.2 For some hub models, two wrenches of 13, 14, 15 or 16 mm required
Wheel and Tire Tools
Truing Stand TS-2.2, TS-8 Speeds the truing of wheels
Truing Stand Base for TS-2.2 TSB-2 Tilting base for truing stand TS-2.2
226
TOOL LIST APPENDIX A
✓ TOOL PRODUCTS INFORMATION

General Tools
Spoke Tension Meter TM-1 Checks tension on spokes
Wheel Centering Tool WAG-4 Also see optional WAG-5
SW-0, SW-1, SW-2, SW-3, SW-5,
Spoke Wrenches Many possible sizes and options; select the correct size for your wheel
SW-12, SW-13, SW-14, SW-15
Tire Levers TL-1, TL-4, TL-5, TL-6 Levers vary in design and fit
Patch Kit GP-2, VP-1 VP-1 has glue in tube; GP-2 has pre-glued patches
Floor Pump PFP-7, PFP-8 Pump head fits both presta and schrader
Spoke Ruler SBC-1 Measures spoke length and ball bearing sizes
Drivetrain Tools
Pedal Wrench PW-3, PW-4 PW-3 had 15 mm and ⁹⁄₁₆ inch; PW-4 has 15 mm only
Pedal Wrench HT-6, HT-8 For pedals with 6-point socket in axle
CCP-22 is for square type spindle only
Crank Arm Pullers CCP-22, CCP-44, CWP-7 CCP-44 is for round, splined ISIS Drive or Shimano® Octalink® only
CWP-7 works with either square or round spindles
FR-1, FR-2, FR-3, FR-4, FR-5, FR-5G,
Cassette/Freewheel Removers Purchase model as needed
FR-6, FR-7, FR-8, BBT-5/FR-11
Used to hold cassette while lockring is removed
Chain Whip SR-1.2
Note: Older freehubs required two sprocket tools
Chain Rivet Tool CT-3.2, CT-4.3, CT-5, CT-6.3
Master Link Pliers MLP-1.2
Chain Wear Checker CC-2, CC-3.2 Check chain for wear
Includes Cyclone Chain Cleaner CM-5.2, gear brush GSC-1, and ChainBrite
Drivetrain Cleaning Kit CG-2.2
fluid CB-2
Derailleur Hanger Alignment Gauge DAG-2 Aligns rear derailleur hanger
Brake Tools
Fourth Hand Tool BT-2 Tightens cable slack by pulling cable
Cable Cutters CN-10 Cuts both cable and housing
Hydraulic Piston Press PP-1.2
Miscellaneous Parts and Supplies
Bearing Grease PPL-1 Safe for suspension elastomers, ceramic bearings, and carbon fiber
Bicycle Cleaning Brush Kit BCB-4.2
Chain Lubrication CL-1
Threadlocking adhesives Medium duty, service removabe
Degreaser CB-2 For chain and parts
Hand Cleaner
Alcohol For cleaning brake surfaces and press fits
Polisher Glass cleaner, etc. For cleaning frames
Zip Ties Various sizes and colors
Rags Lots and lots of cotton rags
Spare Inner Tubes Purchase to fit
Spare Gear Cables Use only high quality cables
APPENDIX B GLOSSARY
B GLOSSARY
Adjustable cup: The left side bearing cup of an adjustable Brake pad: Synthetic rubber block fastened to caliper arm.
bottom bracket. Pad is forced against moving rim or disc causing friction, to
slow rim rotation.
Adjusting race: A movable bearing surface typically mounted
to a thread that is used to adjust bearing play and movement. Brake pad fixing bolt/nut: Fastener system that holds brake
pad to rim caliper arm.
Allen® wrench: See hex wrench.
Brake pad toe: An adjustment to the brake pad used to
Articulated housing: Brake and derailleur index housing made reduce brake squeal. Pad surface is adjusted to strike braking
of small hollow metal segments strung together over a liner. surface at a slight angle, usually with leading edge striking
first or “toe in.”
ATB: All Terrain Bike, or mountain bike.
Brake quick release: Mechanism found on rim brake caliper
Axle nut: A threaded nut that secures wheel to bike. Used to open brake arms allowing wide tires to pass brake pads.
with solid axle hubs. The mechanism is sometimes found on the brake lever, or at a
cable housing stop.
Bead seat diameter: Rim diameter measured where the tire
bead is seated. Braking surface: Part of the rim or rotor disc that is rubbed
by brake pads.
Bolt circle diameter: Diameter of a circle defined by the
chainring mounting bolts. British Standard Cycle (BSC): A thread standard system used
by the British and adopted by much of the world.
Bottom bracket: The bearings, cups, and spindle connecting
both cranks. B-screw: Body-screw on rear derailleur that changes the
distance between the derailleur body, or the upper pulley
Bottom bracket shell: The bottom of the frame that holds (G-pulley or guide pulley) assembly, and the rear sprockets.
the bottom bracket.
Cable: Wound, multiple strand wire used for brake calipers
Bottom bracket spindle: The axle in the bottom bracket. It and derailleurs.
connects both cranks.
Cable adjusting barrel: Hollow bolt that acts as housing stop.
Braided housing: A cable housing made of woven wire Component adjusts in or out to effectively change housing
around an inner liner. length and cable tension on brake and derailleur systems.
Brake bridge: Frame tubing connection between seatstays. Cable pinch bolt: Bolt and washer system that flattens and
Located above rear tire and used for mounting side pull and holds secure the cut end of a cable. Found on derailleurs
dual pivot brake calipers on some bikes. and brakes.
Brake cable: Wound, multiple strand wire that connects brake Cantilever brake: Brake system found on mountain bikes,
lever with brake caliper. cyclocross bikes, and touring road bikes. Consists of two separate
brake arms pivoting off studs fixed to the frame or fork.
Brake cable carrier: Transverse connection between brake
caliper arms. Found on cantilever brakes. (See straddle cable) Cassette: Sprocket and spacer assembly mounted to a freehub
mechanism on the rear wheel.
Brake caliper: The lever arms that move brake pads to rim or
rotor to apply friction needed to slow and stop the bicycle. Centerline: Mid plane of the bike in line with wheels.
Brake centering screw: The screw that changes spring Chain: A connected series of flexible links used to transfer
tension between caliper arms, allowing pads to center over motion of front chainrings to rear sprockets.
wheel rim.
Chain rivet: Small pin that connects two outer chain plates,
Brake fluid: Either a mineral oil based fluid or a D.0.T. brake usually considered a permanent part of chain.
fluid for hydraulic brake systems.
Chainring: Sprocket attached to the crank.
Brake lever: The mechanism pulled by hand to activate brake
caliper and pads. Chainring bolt: Special bolts that secure a chainring to crank.
Chainring nut: Thin-walled nut used with a chainring bolt.
228
GLOSSARY APPENDIX B
Chainring nut wrench: Special wrench with two pegs used to Disc brake: Caliper brake system using a disc-shaped rotor
hold chainring nut. bolted to hub as the braking surface. Brake caliper attaches to
either fork end or frame adjacent to hub.
Chainstay: Frame tubes connecting the rear dropouts and the
bottom bracket shell. Dishing Tool: A gauge used to measure the centering of the
wheel rim over the hub.
Cleats: fitting mounted to a cycling shoe that attaches the
shoe to the pedal. DOT brake fluid: Hydraulic brake fluid approved by the U.S.
Department of Transportation. Does not interchange with
Cogs: Sprockets attached to rear hub. mineral oil brake fluid.
Compressionless housing: Plastic and metal sheath that Down tube: Frame tube connecting lower portion of the head
covers derailleur inner cable, allowing it to pass around tube to the bottom bracket shell.
corners and between moving parts of the frame. Differs from
other housing in that outer support wires run longitudinally Drop bars: Curved handlebars made with two bends, with
with inner cable. Also called SIS™ housing by Shimano®. the outermost section being lower than the top and offset 90
degrees. Most frequently used on road bikes.
Cone: A cone-shaped and curved bearing race that rides
against ball bearings. Dropout: Part of frame and fork slotted to accept a wheel axle.
Cone wrench: Thin wrench made to fit the narrow wrench Dual pivot brake: Road type brake with two arms pivoting off
flats of a hub cone. separate studs mounted to a center bracket. One arm swings
on an arc moving up and the other arm swings on an arc
Crank (crank arm): The lever arm between the pedal and the moving down.
bottom bracket.
E-plate derailleur: A front derailleur design that permanently
Crank bolt: Bolt that secures crank to bottom bracket spindle. mounts the derailleur to a plate held by the bottom bracket.
Crank puller: Tool used to remove cranks by pulling them ETRTO: European Tire and Rim Technical Organization; an
from bottom bracket spindle. organization developing industry standards for tires and tubes.
Crankset: Rotating mechanism, turned by feet, or in some Fixed cup: The right side cup of an adjustable bottom bracket.
cases by hand, which includes the chainrings, crank arms, and
chainring bolts/nuts. Flat bars: A handlebar style where the handlebars bend very
slightly from the center. Also called upright bars.
Crown (fork crown): Horizontal portion of fork, located at
top of fork blades. Foot-pound: A measurement of torque used mainly in the U.S.
Derailleur: Mechanism used to push chain from one cog or Fork: Mechanism used to hold the front wheel.
chainring to another.
Fork blades: Tubes connecting fork dropouts to fork crown.
Derailleur cable: The inner cable of the derailleur cable
system. Sometimes called the gear cable. Frame: Supporting structure for the components, the wheels
of a bike, the rider, and the cargo.
Derailleur capacity: The rated ability of a rear derailleur
to take up chain slack from the gear combinations on the Frame housing stops: fittings on the frame that hold either
bike. Given as the sum of the difference between the largest brake or derailleur cable housing ends.
and smallest number of teeth on the rear sprockets, plus the
difference between the largest and smallest front chainring Freehub: Ratcheting body bolted internally to hub of rear
tooth numbers. wheel. Holds cassette cogs. Mechanism does not detach when
cogs are removed.
Derailleur hanger: The fitting on a bicycle frame that holds
the rear derailleur. On some bikes this piece is replaceable. Freewheel: Ratcheting mechanism on the rear wheel fitted
with one or more cogs. Cogs and ratcheting body unthread
Derailleur limit screw: Screw that stops derailleur travel from hub as a unit.
when shifting to either extreme position. One screw stops
inward travel, a second screw stops outward travel. Front derailleur: Mechanism located above front chainrings
that pushes the chain from one chainring to another.
APPENDIX B GLOSSARY
Gear cable: See derailleur cable. International Standards Organization: A group dedicated to
setting standards for all industries involved in international
Guide pulley (G-pulley): Uppermost pulley on rear derailleur. trade, such as the bicycling industry.
Guides chain onto rear cogs.
ISIS Drive®: International Splined Interface System. A crank
Gripshift®: Twist shifter manufactured by SRAM® Corporation. and bottom bracket spindle interface standard using 10 splines.
Handlebars: Connector between stem and cyclist’s hands. ISO: See International Standards Organization
Head tube: Tube connecting down tube and top tube; Integrated headset: A headset design In which the frame
contains headset and steering column of fork. acts as a holder for the bearings. Bearings are held inside head
tube. Service or installation does not involve pressing cups,
Headset: Bearing assembly connecting the head tube and but uses a slip fit for the bearings.
fork. Allows fork to rotate.
Kilogram force: A force equal to a kilogram weight or
Hex wrench: Metal wrench made from a six sided rod (hex- a one-kilogram mass times the acceleration of gravity.
shaped) made to fit inside bolts or other mechanical fittings. Approximately equal to 2.2 pounds force.
Also known as Allen® Wrench.
Limit screws: Screws on front and rear derailleurs which stop
High normal derailleur: See top normal derailleur. the derailleurs from causing the chain to move too close to
the bicycle center line or too far to the right of the center
Housing: The outer plastic and metal sheath that covers line, either into the spokes, or causing the chain to fall off.
brake or derailleur cable, allowing cable to pass around
corners and between moving parts of the frame. Linear pull brakes: A caliper brake with two long arms
holding pads. System uses housing stop in one arm, no
Housing end cap (ferrule): Small metal or plastic cap that straddle cable.
fits over end of housing.
Locknut: Nut used to lock a cone, threaded race, or other
Hub: The center of the wheel, contains bearings and an axle. threaded item to keep it from moving or unthreading.
Hub brake: Braking system located at the center of the wheel Low normal derailleur: A rear derailleur design which, with
inside the hub. no cable tension, the derailleur returns to the innermost
(largest) sprocket position. Sometimes referred to as “low
Hydraulic brake: A brake system that uses fluid to transmit normal.” Also called Rapid Rise®.
force from the rider’s hand to the brake caliper.
Low profile headset: A headset that uses a pressed head tube
Hydraulic-mechanical brake: A brake system that combines cup that allows bearings to sit inside headtube. Also called
hydraulic and mechanical systems. Zero-stack or internal headset.
Inch-pound: A measurement of torque used mostly in the Master link: Linkage system used to join the ends of a chain.
United States.
Maximum extension line: A line on a seat post or quill stem
Indexing: Shifting system that uses “clicks” or dwell to indicating the maximum amount the item should be raised
indicate each sprocket location. above the frame or fork steering column. Also called the
“minimum insertion line.”
Inner tube: Rubber bladder inside tire that holds air.
Maximum tooth size: The largest rear spocket size a rear
Innermost: Closest point relative to the centerline of the bike. derailleur will be able to shift onto.
Interference fit: A method of assembly where one part Mechanical disc brake: A disc brake that uses a cable system
is slightly larger than its intended fitting. Parts are held and has no hydraulic fittings.
together by the force of assembly, and the elasticity of the
component materials. Mineral fluid: A type of fluid, based on mineral oil, used in
some models of hydraulic brakes. Does not interchange with
Internal headset: A headset type that uses a pressed head DOT brake fluid.
tube cup that allows bearings to sit inside head tube. Also
called Zero-stack or low-profile headset. Minimum insertion line: See maximum extension line.
230
GLOSSARY APPENDIX B
Mountain bike: Bicycle design intended for rugged, off-road Rim strip: Protective strip covering holes between rim and
use. Also called “ATB”, or all terrain bike. inner tube.
MTB: See mountain bike. Rotor: Round disc plate mounted to hub for disc brake caliper.
Nipple: See spoke nipple. Saddle: Support for posterior of bicyclist.
Octalink®: Registered trademark of Shimano® Inc. for a crank Schrader valve: Inner tube valve commonly seen on many
and spindle interface standard using 8 splines. Octalink® bicycle and car tires.
includes the non-interchangeable V1 and V2 systems.
Seat post: Connection between saddle and frame.
One-key release: Crank system that allows removal of the
crank without a crank puller. Seat tube: Frame tube connecting top tube and bottom
bracket. Seat post inserts into top of seat tube.
One-piece crank: Crank that uses a single piece of metal for
the arms and spindle. Also called “Ashtabula” crank. Seatstay: Frame tube connecting rear dropout and upper
portion of seat tube.
Outermost: Farthest position laterally from centerline of bike.
Setscrew: Small screw used primarily for adjustments. Found
Pawl: Articulating tooth in a ratcheting system. Used commonly on brake levers and caliper brakes.
commonly in freehubs and freewheels.
Self-vulcanizing fluid: Special fluid used on an inner tube to
Pipe Billet spindle: A splined bottom bracket spindle from adhere patch.
Shimano® Inc. These cranks and spindles do not interchange
with square spindles or square holed cranks. Shift lever: Control mechanism designed to pull cable and
control derailleur.
Presta valve: Narrow valve system used for some inner tubes.
Sidepull brake: Caliper brake using one pivot for both arms
Pulley wheel: Small wheel on the rear derailleur that wraps and mounted to brake bridge above center of wheel.
the chain to prevent slack over a range of front and rear cog
size combinations. Slip fit: Method of assembly where one part slides without
force into its fitting.
Quick release skewer: Metal shaft and lever with cam, fitted
into hollow axle. Allows easy and quick removal of wheel. Spanner: Wrench.
Quill Stem: A type of stem that inserts and secures inside Spindle: Axle for the bottom bracket.
a threaded steering column, allowing a range of handlebar
height adjustment. Spider: Arms that hold the chainrings to the crank.
Rapid Rise®: See low normal derailleur. Splined spindle: A tubular shaped bottom bracket axle with
ends having machined notches and recesses. The splines mate
Rear derailleur: Shifting mechanism attached to the frame to splines in the crank.
that moves chain from one rear sprocket to another.
Spoke: Long thin bolt, connecting hub to rim. Threaded on
Rear sprockets: The toothed cogs or gears on the rear wheel. one end with a hook or fitting on other end.
Repair stand: fixture designed to hold bike while doing Spoke nipple: Nut located at threaded end of spoke.
repairs.
Sprocket: Toothed gear or wheel used to connect with the chain.
Retaining compound: Liquid adhesive designed to expand
and harden in press fit situations. Square spindle: A spindle design where the spindle ends are
a square shaped stud. Fits into a square hole in the crank.
Rim: Metal or composite hoop suspended around hub by spokes.
Star nut (Star fangled nut): A nut designed to press into the
Rim caliper brake: A brake system that applies force, inside of the fork steering column. Nut provides method for
producing friction, directly to the rim for slowing and headset bearing adjustment.
stopping the bike.
Steering column: Tubing that connects fork crown to stem.
APPENDIX B GLOSSARY
Stem: Connector between fork and handlebars. Top tube: Frame tube connecting head tube to seat tube.
Tensiometer: Tool used to determine the amount of tension Torque: Force applied around an axis.
in the wire spokes of a wheel.
True: Refers to wheel rim spinning laterally straight and
Tension: Tensile force, pulling along the axis line of an object. radially round.
Tension meter: See tensiometer. Tubeless tire: Tire and rim system that maintains air pressure
without an inner tube. Similar to automotive and motorcycle
Thread locker: A special adhesive designed to expand and tubeless tire systems.
harden in the threads of a fastener.
Twist grip: Shift lever fitted as part of handgrip that actuates
Thread pitch: Distance from one thread crest to the next shifting by rotation.
thread crest.
Valve core: Mechanism in inner tube for inflating,
Threadless stem: Stem that clamps to the outside of an maintaining inflation, and deflating tube.
unthreaded steering column.
V-brakes®: Registered trademark of Shimano® Inc. for a type
Tire: Rubber and fabric casing which encloses the inner tube of linear pull brake. Pads move on parallelgram attached to
and contacts ground. caliper arms.
Tire bead: Wire or fabric cable molded into the tire edge. Wheel: A composite component made of the rim, hub and
Holds tire on the rim when tire is under pressure. spokes. May also include tire and tube.
Tire lever: Lever with smooth, rounded edge used to remove Zero stack headset: A headset type that uses a pressed
tire bead from rim. headtube cup that allows bearings to sit inside headtube. Also
called low profile or internal headset.
Tire Sealant: A liquid placed in the tire or inner tube. The
purpose is to block minor leaks. Zip tie: Thin plastic straps used to secure most anything.
Top normal derailleur: A rear derailleur design where with

no cable tension the derailleur returns to the outermost
(smallest) sprocket position. Also called high normal.
232
TORQUE RECOMMENDATIONS APPENDIX C
C TORQUE RECOMMENDATIONS
Specifications in the table below are in Newton meters components or parts. Contact the manufacturer for the most
(Nm). Inch-pounds (in-lbs) are given in parentheses. Some up-to-date specifications.
component manufacturers do not specify torque for certain
TABLE C.1 Torque Recommendations

COMPONENT TYPE TORQUE RECOMMENDATION
Handlebar, Stem, Fork, and Headset Area
Control Tech® 16.3−19 Nm (144−168 in-lbs)
Stem binder bolt: quill type
Shimano® 19.6−29.4 Nm (174−260 in-lbs)
Control Tech® 13.6−16.2 Nm (120−144 in-lbs)
Deda® 8 Nm (71 in-lbs)
FSA® carbon 8.8 Nm (78 in-lbs)
Threadless stem steering
Syncros® cotter bolt type 10.1 Nm (90 in-lbs)
column binder bolts
Thomson® 5.4 Nm (48 in-lbs)
Time® Monolink 5 Nm (48 in-lbs)
Race Face® 6.2 Nm (55 in-lbs)
Handlebar binder: one- or two- Shimano® 19.6−29.4 Nm (174−260 in-lbs)

bolt models Control Tech® 13.6−16.3 Nm (120−144 in-lbs)
Deda® magnesium 8 Nm (71 in-lbs)
Handlebar binder: four-bolt Thomson® 5.4 Nm (48 in-lbs)

faceplate models FSA® OS-115 carbon 8.8 Nm (78 in-lbs)
Time® Monolink 6 Nm (53 in-lbs)
Cane Creek® 7.9 Nm (70 in-lbs)
MTB handlebar end extensions
Control Tech® 16.3 Nm (144 in-lbs)
Chris King® gripnut type 14.6−17 Nm (130−150 in-lbs)
Threaded headset locknut
Tange-Seiki® 24.5 Nm (217 in-lbs)
Control Tech® two-bolt type 16.3 Nm (144 in-lbs)
Control Tech® one-bolt type 33.9 Nm (300 in-lbs)
Shimano® 20−30 Nm (174−260 in-lbs)
Seat rail binder Syncros® 5 Nm (44.2 in-lbs) each bolt
Time® Monolink 5 Nm (44.2 in-lbs)
Truvativ® M8 bolt: 22−24 Nm (195−212 in-lbs); M6 bolt: 6−7.1 Nm (53−63 in-lbs)
Campagnolo® 22 Nm (194 in-lbs)
4−6.8 Nm (36−60 in-lbs); Note: Seat posts require only minimal
Seat post binder Campagnolo®
tightening to not slip downward. Avoid overtightening.
Pedal, Crankset, and Bottom Bracket Area
Ritchey® 34.7 Nm (307 in-lbs)
Pedal into crank
Shimano® 35 Nm (309.7 in-lbs) minimum
Truvativ® 31.2−33.9 Nm (276−300 in-lbs)
Compression slotted crank Shimano® Hollowtech® II 9.9−14.9 Nm (88−132 in-lbs)

pinch bolts FSA® MegaExo™ 9.8−11.3 Nm (87−100 in-lbs)
Shimano® Hollowtech® II 0.5−0.7 Nm (4−6 in-lbs)
Crank adjusting cap
FSA® MegaExo™ 0.5−0.7 Nm (4−6 in-lbs)
APPENDIX C TORQUE RECOMMENDATIONS

Shimano® Octalink® XTR® (M15 thread) 40.3−49 Nm (357−435 in-lbs)
Campagnolo® 32−38 Nm (282−336 in-lbs)
Campagnolo® Ultra-Torque® 42 Nm (371 in-lbs)
FSA® M8 bolt 34−39 Nm (304−347 in-lbs)
Crank bolt (including splined
FSA® M14 steel 49−59 Nm (434−521 in-lbs)
and square-spindle cranks)
Race Face® 54 Nm (480 in-lbs)
Syncros® 27 Nm (240 in-lbs)
Truvativ® ISIS Drive 43−47 Nm (384−420 in-lbs)
Truvativ® square spindle 38−42 Nm (336−372 in-lbs)
White Industries™ 27−34 Nm (240−300 in-lbs)
Shimano® 5−6.8 Nm (44−60 in-lbs)
Crank bolt one-key release cap
Truvativ® 12−14 Nm (107−124 in-lbs)
Chainring cassette to crankarm
(lockring)
Shimano® 7.9−10.7 Nm (70−95 in-lbs)
Chainring bolt: steel
Truvativ® 12.1−14 Nm (107−124 in-lbs)
Shimano® 5−10 Nm (44−88.5 in-lbs)
Chainring bolt: aluminum Campagnolo® 8 Nm (70.8 in-lbs)
Truvativ® 8−9 Nm (70.8−79.6 in-lbs)
Shimano® 49.1−68.7 Nm (435−608 in-lbs)
Campagnolo® (three-piece type) 70 Nm (612 in-lbs)
Campagnolo® Ultra-Torque® cups 35 Nm (310 in-lbs)
FSA® 39.2−49 Nm (347−434 in-lbs)
Bottom bracket: cartridge
Shimano® Hollowtech® II 34.5−49.1 Nm (305−435 in-lbs)
Truvativ® 33.9−40.7 Nm (300−360 in-lbs)
White Industries™ 27 Nm (240 in-lbs)
Derailleur and Shift Lever Area
Shimano® STI™ 6−8 Nm (53−69 in-lbs)
Drop bar dual control brake/
shift lever clamp bolt
SRAM® 6−8 Nm (53−70 in-lbs)
Shift lever: upright/flat bar
Shimano® 5−7.4 Nm (44−69 in-lbs)
type
Shimano® Revoshift® 6−8 Nm (53−70 in-lbs)
Shift lever: twist grip
SRAM® 17 Nm (150 in-lbs)
Front derailleur clamp bolt Shimano® 5−7 Nm (44.2−62 in-lbs)
SRAM® 4.5 Nm (39.8 in-lbs)
SRAM® 5−7 Nm (44−62 in-lbs)
Rear derailleur mounting bolt Shimano® 8−10 Nm (70−86 in-lbs)
SRAM® 8−10 Nm (70−86 in-lbs)
234

Rear derailleur cable pinch bolt Campagnolo® 6 Nm (53 in-lbs)
SRAM® 4−5 Nm (35.4−44.2 in-lbs)
Shimano® 2.9−3.9 Nm (27−34 in-lbs)
Rear derailleur pulley wheel
SRAM®
(idler wheel) bolt
Campagnolo®
Wheel, Hub, and Rear Cog Area
Typically not used in wheels. Spoke tension is measured by deflection.
Spoke tension torque —
Contact rim manufacturer for specific tension recommendations.
Measured torque not typically used. Common industry practice is
Wheel quick realease —
resistance at lever half way through swing from open to fully closed.
Wheel axle nuts to frame
SRAM® 30−39.5 Nm (266−350 in-lbs)
Shimano® 29.4−49 Nm (260−434 in-lbs)
Cassette sprocket lockring Campagnolo® 50 Nm (442 in-lbs)
SRAM® 40 Nm (354 in-lbs)
Bontrager® 17 Nm (150 in-lbs)
Hub cone lockring nut Chris King® 12.2 Nm (100 in-lbs)
Shimano® 9.8−24.5 Nm (87−217 in-lbs)
Bontrager® 45 Nm (400 in-lbs)
Freehub body Shimano® 35−50 Nm (305−434 in-lbs)
Shimano® XTR® using 14 mm hex 45−50 Nm (392−434 in-lbs)
Disc Brake Systems
Disc rotor to hub: lockring Shimano® 40 Nm (350 in-lbs)

models Avid® 40 Nm (350 in-lbs)
Disc rotor to hub (M5 bolts, six Hayes® 5.6 Nm (50 in-lbs)
per rotor) Avid® 6.2 Nm (55 in-lbs)
Magura® 3.8 Nm (34 in-lbs)
Avid® 9−10.2 Nm (80−90 in-lbs)
Magura® 5.7 Nm (51 in-lbs)
Caliper body mount Shimano® 6−8 Nm (53−69 in-lbs)
Hayes® 12.4 Nm (110 in-lbs); with Manitou forks, 9 Nm (80 in-lbs)
Tektro® 6−8 Nm (53−69 in-lbs)
Hydraulic hose fittings Hayes® 6.2 Nm (55 in-lbs)
Brake Caliper and Lever Area
Upright bar brake levers Avid® 5−7 Nm (44−62 in-lbs)
Cane Creek® 7.7−8.1 Nm (68−72 in-lbs)
Brake caliper mount to frame: Shimano® 7.8−9.8 Nm (70−86 in-lbs)
side-pull, dual-pivot,
center-pull Tektro® 8−10 Nm (69−89 in-lbs)
APPENDIX C TORQUE RECOMMENDATIONS

Avid® 4.9−6.9 Nm (43−61 in-lbs)
Linear-pull or cantilever caliper
mount to frame
SRAM® 5−6.8 Nm (45−60 in-lbs)
Avid® 5.9−7.8 Nm (53−69 in-lbs)
Brake pad: threaded stud
SRAM® 5.7−7.9 Nm (50−70 in-lbs)
Brake pad: smooth stud Shimano® 7.9−8.8 Nm (70−78 in-lbs)
Brake cable pinch bolt: linear- Shimano® 6−7.8 Nm (53−69 in-lbs)

pull and cantilever SRAM® 5.6−7.9 Nm (50−70 in-lbs)
Brake cable pinch bolt: side-pull
Mavic® 7−9 Nm (62−80 in-lbs)
and dual-pivot
Side-pull and dual-pivot brake Shimano® 6−8 Nm (53−69 in-lbs)

pad bolts Campagnolo® 8 Nm (72 in-lbs)
Cantilever straddle wire carrier Shimano® 3.9−4.9 Nm (35−43 in-lbs)

pinch bolt (M5 thread) Avid® 3−5 Nm (26−44 in-lbs) Avid Shorty Ultimate
236
The chart below is a quick conversion between inch-pounds, in-lb = ft-lbs x 12

foot-pounds, and Newton-meters. For exact figures, use the in-lb = Nm x 8.851
formulas at right. in-lb = kgf-cm x 0.87
TABLE C.2 Torque Conversion Table

IN-LBS FT-LBS* Nm* IN-LBS FT-LBS* Nm*
10 0.8 1.1 260 21.7 29.4
20 1.7 2.3 270 22.5 30.5
30 2.5 3.4 280 23.3 31.6
40 3.0 4.5 290 24.2 32.8
50 4.2 5.6 300 25.0 33.9
60 5.0 6.8 310 25.8 35.0
70 5.8 7.9 320 26.7 36.2
80 6.7 9.0 330 27.5 37.3
90 7.5 10.2 340 28.3 38.4
100 8.3 11.3 350 29.2 39.5
110 9.2 12.4 360 30.0 40.7
120 10.0 13.6 370 30.8 41.8
130 10.8 14.7 380 31.7 42.9
140 11.7 15.8 390 32.5 44.0
150 12.5 16.9 400 33.3 45.2
160 13.3 18.1 410 34.2 46.3
170 14.2 19.2 420 35.0 47.5
180 15.0 20.3 430 35.8 48.6
190 15.8 21.5 440 36.7 49.7
200 16.7 22.6 450 37.5 50.8
210 17.5 23.7 460 38.3 52.0
220 18.3 24.9 470 39.2 53.1
230 19.2 26.0 480 40.0 54.2
240 20.0 27.1 490 40.8 55.4
250 20.8 28.2 500 41.7 56.6
* Approximate values
TORQUE CONVERSION SCALE

0 4 8 12 16 20 24 28 32 36 40 44 48 52 56
Nm
in-lbs
0 50 100 150 200 250 300 350 400 450 500
APPENDIX D HEADSET STANDARDS
D HEADSET STANDARDS
The three tables below refer to the different headset fork column top standards for both threaded and threadless
standards now seen on bicycles. The common legacy names forks. Table D.3 gives the fork race seat standards.
are listed as well as the new SHIS system (Standard Headset Use a caliper to measure the old parts and or frame when
Information System). Table D.1 refers to the bicycle headtube replacing the headset. Look for the SHIS listing on new
and gives the cup or bearing outside diameter (OD) as well replacement headsets.
as the frame bore or inside diameter (ID). Table D.2 gives the
TABLE D.1 Head Tube Standards

TYPE LEGACY NAME SHIS NAME CUP/BEARING OD (mm) BORE ID (mm)
1-inch JIS pressed cup EC29 30.0 29.80−29.90
1-inch Pro pressed cup EC30 30.2 30.00−30.15
1-inch BMX standard (old) EC33 32.8 32.60−32.70
1⅛-inch pressed cup EC34 34.0 33.80−33.95
External cup
1¼-inch pressed cup EC37 37.0 36.80−36.95
Beyond headtube
External cup (rare) EC38 38.0 37.90−37.95
External cup in the 44 standard EC44 44.0 43.90−43.95
1.5-inch pressed cup EC49 49.7 49.55−49.60
1.5-inch pressed cup EC56 56.0 55.90−55.95
1-inch semi-integrated ZS41 41.5 41.35−41.40
1⅛-inch semi-integrated ZS44 44.0 43.90−43.95
Semi-integrated, internal, ZS
1½-inch semi-integrated ZS49 49.7 49.55−49.65
Bearing level or below headtube
1½-inch semi-integrated (rare) ZS55 55.0 54.90−54.95
1½-inch semi-integrated ZS56 56.0 55.90−55.95
1-inch IS (Cane Creek®) IS38 38.0 38.15−38.25
1⅛-inch IS (Cane Creek®) IS41 41.0 41.10−41.20
Integrated 1⅛-inch Italian (hiddenset) IS42 41.8 41.95−42.05

Bearing stop built into frame 1¼-inch integrated (lower only) IS47 47.0 47.05−47.10
1⅜-inch IS (lower only) IS49 49.0 49.10−49.20
1½-inch IS (lower only) IS52 52.0 52.10−52.15
TABLE D.2 Steering Column Top Standards TABLE D.3 Fork Race Standards
LEGACY NAME SHIS NAME OD (W/ TPI) SHIS FORK SEAT CROWN RACE
LEGACY NAME
NAME OD (mm) ID (mm)
1-inch French threaded 25.0 mm x 1.0 25.0 mm x 1.0
1-inch JIS 27 27.1 27.0
1-inch threaded 25.4 mm x 24 tpi 25.4 mm x 24 tpi
1-inch Pro or “euro” 26 26.5 26.4
1-inch threadless 25.4 mm 25.4 mm
1⅛-inch threaded/threadless 30 30.1 30.0
1⅛-inch threaded 28.6 m x 26 tpi 28.6 m x 26 tpi
1¼-inch threaded/threadless 33 33.1 33.0
1⅛-inch threadless 28.6 mm 28.6 mm
1⅜-inch integrated race — — —
1¼-inch threaded 31.8 mm x 26 tpi 31.8 mm x 26 tpi
1½-inch with pressed races 40 40.0 39.9
1¼-inch threadless 31.8 mm 31.8 mm
1½-inch threadless 38.1 mm 38.1 mm
238
APPENDIX E BIKE MAP
E BIKE MAP
240
BIKE MAP APPENDIX E

C. Calvin Jones - Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair-Park Tool Company (2013) PDF

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

C. Calvin Jones - Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair-Park Tool Company (2013) PDF

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

BIG BLUE BOOK

Copyright © 2013 Park Tool Company

Park Tool Company

To report errors, please send a note to info@partktool.com

Written by: C. Calvin Jones

Printed and bound in the United States of America

CHAPTER 1 — BASIC MECHANICAL SKILLS

CHAPTER 2 — TIRES & TUBES

CHAPTER 3 — REAR SPROCKETS

Freehub Removal & Installation........................................................................................................................47

CHAPTER 5 — WHEEL TRUING

Threaded Adjustable Bottom Bracket Bearings.......................................................................................89

CHAPTER 9 — DERAILLEUR SYSTEMS

Derailleur Cable Attachment......................................................................................................................125

CHAPTER 10 — INTERNAL GEAR SYSTEMS

CHAPTER 11 — CALIPER DISC BRAKE SYSTEMS

CHAPTER 12 — CALIPER RIM BRAKE SYSTEMS

CHAPTER 13 — HANDLEBARS, STEMS, SADDLES, & SEATPOSTS

CHAPTER 15 — FRAME & FORK

CHAPTER 17 — ON-RIDE REPAIR

APPENDICES A–E — REFERENCE MATERIALS

E quipment and machinery of all types share many

service any equipment or bicycle.

THREADED FASTENER TENSION & TORQUE

A beam type torque wrench

FIGURE 1.6 or no lubrication left. Grease should be changed when

HOME SHOP SETUP

in the tires. Inside conventional tires is an inner tube to hold

FIGURE 2.3 FIGURE 2.7

Squeeze the cantilever calipers together and disconnect

Push on-off lever upward to return derailleur to clutch operation mode

LEAKY VALVE CORE

Test valve for a leaky core

LARGE SHREDDED HOLE

Shredded hole indicating blowout

HOLE ON THE RIM STRIP SIDE OF TUBE

LONG CUT OR RIP FIGURE 2.20

SINGLE PUNCTURE OR SMALL HOLE

Damaged sides will lead to failure under pressure

FIGURE 2.23 PRE-GLUED PATCH REPAIR

INNER TUBE REPAIR WITH

FIGURE 2.26 INNER TUBE SEALANTS

FIGURE 2.31 FIGURE 2.33

FIGURE 2.35 FIGURE 2.37

Left: simple valve extender with lock nut loose

TIRE & TUBE SIZING

INSTALLATION OF TIRE & TUBE ON WHEEL

FIGURE 2.46 FIGURE 2.49

Pivot derailleur back to clear wheel and cogs

FRONT WHEELS WITH DISC BRAKES

FIGURE 2.56 FIGURE 2.59

Solid axle and horizontal dropout

Open dropout with a 10 mm thru-axle hub system

TUBELESS SYSTEMS Tubeless valve system

quickly pump to form a seal. It’s helpful to have a FIGURE 2.65

Work bead onto rim

FIGURE 2.67 FIGURE 2.69

Stretch tire as it is mounted

Inflate tire and apply a single base coat

Roll tire on rim to center and true

T he rear sprockets are the gears mounted to the drive

CASSETTE SPROCKET REMOVAL

Campagnolo® cassette lockring