How to avoid crowds at spectacular Eagle Creek in the Columbia River Gorge
If I had to pick the best overall hike in the Columbia River Gorge, my vote would probably go to Eagle Creek Trail.
The historic pathway tightropes into a narrow basalt canyon filled with waterfalls,
There's multiple options for easy to difficult hiking, along with a handful of backcountry campsites that offer some of the only backpacking opportunities in the Gorge.
The problem, of course, is that so many people love this trail. Three different parking lots regularly fill on sunny days, especially on weekends but even midweek, creating a shopping-mall-style hiking experience.
For that reason, I haven't visited Eagle Creek in years.
But when my parents visited last week, I came up with a plan that allowed them to enjoy the wonder of Eagle Creek Trail without the hoards.
The plan was simple — spend the night at nearby Eagle Creek Campground and begin hiking as soon as sun showed its face the next morning.
The plan would allow us to bask in the area’s history — Eagle Creek is one of the oldest areas designated for recreation in the United States. The campground was developed more than a century ago, in 1916. The trail, created by blasting out sides of the cliffs with dynamite, opened soon after.
By 1919, the Eagle Creek area was being visited by more than 150,000 people each summer. Crowds are nothing new.
The question, then as now, is how to avoid them. Here’s how we did it.
I-84 camping
Ah, camping.
Trees towered overhead. The smell of woodsmoke filled the air. And on the breeze, you can hear the placid sounds of … 18-wheel trucks hauling freight down Interstate-84.
Eagle Creek Campground is a wonderful place to put down a tent, as long as you don't mind the sound of one of Oregon's busiest roadways. And train whistles all night.
Despite that, I found our stay at Eagle Creek campground pleasant. The 17 sites are set in beautiful forest and well-spaced. The noise actually provides a handy service —drowning out nosey neighbors at night. It’s a bit like a white noise machine.
To spend a night here, especially on weekends, make a reservation in advance at Recreaton.Gov.
Eagle Creek Trail
After a restful night at the campground, we made our way down the road to Eagle Creek Trailhead at 6:30 a.m.
We weren’t the first ones on the trail, but we were close. We joined a few other early risers heading into the lush, steep canyon of Eagle Creek. On a perfect spring morning, this fairly level pathway offers all the best parts of the Gorge at once — rainforest, waterfalls and wildflowers.
The trail is an engineering masterpiece, blasted into the sides of cliff edges so steep that cable lines have been installed along the ledges to hold onto.
It's not wise to bring dogs or small children unless you don't mind carrying them. I kept my daughter Lucy in a backpack for almost the entire trip. She wasn't happy about the arrangement, but a wrong step could be fatal here, so there was no point in taking chances.
After about 1.5 miles, we arrived where there used to be a viewpoint for 100-foot Metlako Falls. We could still hear the falls, but the viewpoint trail washed out, and signs made it clear that searching for a view might not end well.
Just a bit farther, at mile 2, a trail branches off and drops to a rocky beach surrounded by mossy cliffs. Step out into the creek for a view of Punchbowl Falls, a short but powerful waterfall that lures many thousands of photographers to this point every summer.
Turn around here, and it’s a healthy 4-mile hike round-trip.
Beyond, the trail leads to stunning High Bridge at mile 3.3. The view here is of a deep chasm, and just crossing the bridge can bring up nerves.
Those willing to venture a bit farther will start seeing places to camp. All spots fill up quickly in summer. Tenas Camp, at mile 3.7, has room for three tents. Wy'East Camp, at mile 5.5, has room for six or seven.
The best part of the hike is 175-foot Tunnel Falls at mile 6, where, as the name suggests, a tunnel was blasted out behind the waterfall. It’s a striking point and the turn-around for the challenging trek. Beyond are more campsites or even Wahtum Lake. Many backpacking loops are possible.
As much as we enjoyed the solitude on the way in, the way out was a lot different. The crowds had started to arrive, and we passed a group every few minutes, something not especially fun on the narrow sections of trail.
No matter how early you start on Eagle Creek Trial, the crowds eventually find you. That’s a fact of life in this beautiful corner of the Gorge.
Eagle Creek Trail
In a nutshell: One of the most scenic but popular hikes in the Columbia River Gorge.
Season: Year-round, but best in spring
Difficulty: Moderate to challenging
Length: 4.2 miles to Punchbowl Falls (moderate); 6.6 miles to High Bridge (moderately difficult); 12 miles to Tunnel Falls (challenging)
Fees: Parking fee or Northwest Forest Pass at trailhead
Crowds: Heavy almost every day it’s nice outside. Avoid them by starting very early in the morning.
Directions: From Portland, take I-84 east to exit 41 (Eagle Creek). Follow the exit road to the fish hatchery. Turn right and follow signs. The first parking lot is the overflow lot, so if you’re early enough, follow the road 0.5 mile to the trailhead at road’s end. Coordinates: N45 38.192 W121 55.168
MORE hiking in the Gorge:
Best 13 hikes of the Columbia River Gorge
Easy and beautiful hike leads to 289-foot Elowah Falls
Oregon Top 5: Best easy wildflower hikes in the Columbia River Gorge