How To Channel Madonna's '80s Style This Autumn
In honour of Madonna's birthday, we look back to her early years to decipher what we can translate into our modern wardrobes. If today’s Instagram feed has taught us anything, it’s that Madonna’s style legacy maintains a remarkable contemporary resonance. The woman who turned underwear into outerwear, who brought aesthetic fetishism into the cultural conversation and who has consistently operated as an ambassador for liberated self-determination turns 60 today. In honour of her birthday, we look back to her early years to decipher what we can translate into our modern wardrobes. During a time where conversations about female sexual autonomy are as relevant and necessary as they were 40 years ago, and at the start of a fashion season where the '80s reign supreme, there has never been a better time to revisit her vision for subversive sensuality and power suiting. Here’s how to do it now.
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While it might be very fashionable right now, the blurring of gender binaries is certainly nothing new – and few women have pioneered power suit androgyny with the same appeal as '80s Madonna. Channelling the likes of Radclyffe Hall and Marlene Dietrich, Madonna’s penchant for slouchy tailoring worn with little underneath has a particularly contemporary appeal: louche silhouettes are all the rage, and the exceptionally appealing offering this menswear season ensured there will be plenty of female demand for the likes of Kim Jones’s Dior Homme and Virgil Abloh’s Louis Vuitton menswear. So, put on some pinstripes, slick back your hair, and know that you can be at once paying tribute and thoroughly on trend.
From left to right: Alexander McQueen drape twill jacket, £2,075 at Matchesfashion.com, Givenchy pointed toe pumps, £600 at Farfetch.com, Buly 1803 handle comb, £42 at Net-a-porter.com, Agent Provocateur full cup underwired bra, £145 at Agentprovocateur.com, Alexander McQueen pinstripe wool blend trousers, £720 at Matchesfashion.com.
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Perhaps the ultimate example of Madonna’s early eclecticism: Susan’s vintage mash-ups perfectly embody the spirit of '80s New York (look to Amy Arbus's photography for a glimpse at that era’s fabulously outré street style). With costumes directly inspired by Madonna’s own wardrobe, which dominantly revolve around abundant accessories and visible underwear as well as a DGAF attitude, the proliferation of charm necklaces and transparent bodices available for autumn/winter 2018 mean that you don't need to trawl vintage stores to find your own recreation (although if you’re going for authentic Susan spirit, you definitely should).
From left to right: Céline edge glasses, £3,991 at Pretavoir.co.uk, Hillier Bartley wool blend blazer, £995 at Matchesfashion.com, Frame Chain pearl and gold-plated glasses chain, £270 at Matchesfashion.com, Maison Michel Lace bow headband, £393 at Farfetch.com, Vivienne Westwood crystal orb pendant, £175 at Viviennewestwood.com, Off-White lace body at Farfetch.com, Simone Rocha faux pearl earrings, £195 at Matchesfashion.com, Diorquake calfskin belt, £700 at Dior.com.
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The best thing about Madonna’s '80s eveningwear aesthetic is that, no matter how raunchy it appeared, it was worn with unparalleled confidence. So: Dolce & Gabbana corset dresses worn with stomping Givenchy boots, plenty of pearls and even more attitude. Luckily, gloves have made a big comeback this season (from Prada to Gucci; Louis Vuitton to Moschino), so the addition of handwear encircled by clunky jewellery feels fresh rather than dated. We’re yet to work out how to use Instagram while wearing them, though.
From left to right: Silver bracelet, £1,210 at Gucci.com, Dolce & Gabbana silk dress, £3,500 at Dolcegabbana.com, Vivienne Westwood necklace, £245 at Viviennewestwood.com, ring with stone and crystals, £530 at Gucci.com, Alessandra Rich crystal pearl embellished heart earrings, £190 at Farfetch.com, Gucci tulle gloves with GG motif, £385 at Farfetch.com, Givenchy 4G ankle boots, £965 at Farfetch.com.
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Nobody wears double denim quite like Madonna – but Demna’s artfully dishevelled Balenciaga pieces are a good start towards her inimitable insouciance. Then, as many belts as you can fit around your hips, a white Tee and some statement earrings are all you need. Easy. Plus, DIY distressing works just as well.
From left to right: Clip-on earrings, £800 at Chanel.com, Miu Miu pearl 65 suede leather boots, £885 at Brownsfashion.com, Gucci leather belt, £451 at Farfetch.com, Balenciaga jacket, £935 at Farfetch.com, Moschino logo belt, £139 at Farfetch.com, Topshop stud and pearl earrings, £7.50 at Topshop.com, Maison Margiela bootcut jeans, £390 at Net-a-porter.com, James Perse classic T-shirt, £111 at Farfetch.com.
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And finally: the puffball skirt, a style you might have relegated to the annals of fashion history, is making a comeback – but look to brands like Molly Goddard or Comme des Garçons for a proudly punk take on froth. “Straight-forward, uninhibited and comfortably over dressed,” was how Goddard described her woman this season, words which could just as easily be describing Madonna. “There are many so called styles such as punk that have lost their original rebel spirit today,” said Kawakubo, who took the overblown aesthetic associated with camp as her inspiration. “I think camp can express something deeper and can give birth to progress.” There is nobody who embodies both punk and camp with the same potency as Madonna. So let's bring the puffball back.
From left to right: Mur Mur fitted corset, £ 447 at Farfetch.com, Commes des Garçon puffball printed doll skirt, £2,617 at Farfetch.com, Zara heart earrings, £12.99 at Zara.com, Molly Goddard ruffle tulle midi skirt, £675 at Net-a-porter.com, Prada oversized biker jacket, £2,600 at Farfetch.com, Prada leather boots, £795 at Net-a-porter.com.
