DE102011087999A1 - Use of the platycodin compound to influence the gene expression of melanocortin receptor 1, glycoprotein 100 and/or c-kit in melanocyte of the skin appendages and treat unwanted facial hair in female, preferably area above the upper lip - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of the platycodin compound for influencing the gene expression of melanocortin receptor 1, glycoprotein 100 and/or c-kit in melanocyte of the skin and/or skin appendages and treating unwanted facial hair in female, preferably area above the upper lip, is claimed. An independent claim is included for a cosmetic agent comprising 0.1-20 wt.% of shea butter and 0.00001-1 wt.% of the platycodin compound. ACTIVITY : Endocrine-Gen. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The invention relates to the use of platycodines for influencing gene expression in melanocytes of skin and / or skin appendages.

In addition to their actual physiological tasks such as thermal insulation and light protection, hair has a psychosocial function that should not be underestimated. Among other things, they serve as a means of interpersonal communication and are a sign of their own individuality. Changes, such as the graying, can lead to a massive impairment of the self-confidence of the person concerned. But not only the loss of color of hair, the visibility of body hair can be undesirable in some places.

Pigmentation in the hair follicle is controlled by a defined complex set of molecular signals. Since melanogenesis in gray follicles is obviously influenced, it can be assumed that parts of this network are modified in the gray follicle. A sequelae is the reduction of melanin synthesis, which leads to the graying of the follicle. The complex set of molecular signals affecting melanogenesis includes, among others, the expression of MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit. MCR1 and ckit are receptors that relay key melanogenesis signals through the binding of their ligands alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone and stem cell factor to the cell interior. Gp100 is a protein of the melanosome membrane and also regulates other melanogenesis-relevant proteins. Tyrosinase catalyzes the initial and rate-limiting step of melanin synthesis by converting tyrosine to L-hydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA). In further steps, the actual melanin polymer is synthesized from L-DOPA. Since these parameters are of essential importance in hair follicle pigmentation, it is advantageous to influence these parameters if, through the use of a test formulation, melanin synthesis in the hair follicle cells is maintained or reactivated - or inhibited to the contrary.

JP 2000198712 A discloses cosmetic compositions having anti-tyrosinase activity which have an excellent skin lightening and skin moisturizing effect and the skin lightening agent containing the plant Platycodon grandiflorum or an extract thereof. WO 2011/099665 A1 discloses antimicrobial compositions containing extracts of natural ingredients, such as. B. Platycodon grandiflorum included.

For fashionable, aesthetic or other reasons, body hair is often undesirable. One approach against this is the use of hair-growth-inhibiting substances. Some known hair growth inhibiting agents are not yet available for commercial use. Other of the known hair growth inhibiting agents have the disadvantage that they are insufficiently effective in the amounts in which they are approved for cosmetic leave-on preparations for toxicological reasons.

An alternative to hair growth inhibiting agents to improve the appearance of shaved or hairy areas of the skin is the use of active ingredients that lighten the hair. Some areas in which visible body hair is undesirable are very sensitive so that conventional brightening procedures using strong oxidants can not be resorted to.

The object of the present invention was to provide cosmetic compositions and methods which improve the appearance of hairy or shaved skin and in particular make the regrowing hair less visible, so as to make the skin appear longer hairless and to allow the consumer, the skin less shave often (reducing the frequency of shaving). This procedure should be as convenient and time-saving as possible and be optimally integrated into the daily hygiene routine.

The object of the present invention was further to provide further active compounds or active substance combinations and compositions containing them, which are suitable for even better influencing the natural pigmentation process, in particular in the hair or hair follicle, without the described disadvantages of the prior art Technique known methods for influencing hair color or degree of hair graying.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that platycodines, in particular the platycodin D, and plant extracts which comprise platycodins, in particular platycodin D, very well achieve the stated objects and are outstandingly suitable as hair-lightening active ingredients for use in cosmetic products.

• a) MCR1 (Melanocortinrezeptor 1) und/oder
• b) gp100 und/oder
• c) ckit und/oder

in Melanozyten der Haut und/oder Hautanhangsgebilden. A first subject of the present application is therefore the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of platycodines for influencing the gene expression of

• a) MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1) and / or
• b) gp100 and / or
• c) ckit and / or

in melanocytes of the skin and / or skin appendages.

• a) 0,1–20,0 Gew.-% Sheabutter
• b) 0,00001 bis 1 Gew.-% mindestens eine Platycodins.

A further subject of the present application is a cosmetic agent containing - based on its weight -

• a) 0.1-20.0% by weight shea butter
• b) 0.00001 to 1% by weight of at least one platycodin.

According to a preferred embodiment, the natural pigmentation process of the hair is influenced, in particular inhibited or agitated. In particular, the negative influence, preferably the negative regulation (downregulation or passivation or de-excitation or reduction) is understood as influencing, which leads to an inhibition of the natural, biological pigmentation process. Particularly preferred is the inhibition of melanogenesis in the human hair follicle, especially the hair (the hair follicle), which are located on the legs of female other.

According to the invention, the pigmentation process, in particular the melanogenesis, the skin and the skin appendages, preferably the hair or the hair follicle, can be influenced. In particular, the natural pigmentation process, in particular melanogenesis, can be influenced in mammals, particularly preferably in humans. Preferably, the pigmentation process, preferably the melanogenesis, of the human hair or of the human hair follicle is influenced.

By inhibition of melanogenesis, preferably melanogenesis in the hair follicle, the downregulation or passivation or reduction or reduction of melanin synthesis in the melanocytes (preferably the melanocytes in the hair follicle) is particularly preferred according to the invention. This is achieved, for example, by a reduction in the gene expression of signal molecules such as MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit. According to a preferred embodiment, the influence, preferably inhibition, of melanogenesis is achieved by the use according to the invention. In particular, melanogenesis is inhibited in the hair or hair follicles of the hairy scalp and / or the beard, in particular in humans.

Uses preferred according to the invention are characterized in that gene expression is inhibited.

For the purposes of the present invention, the inhibition of pigmentation includes, in particular, the downregulation or passivation or reduction or reduction and / or inhibition of the transport of the melanosomes into the keratinocytes surrounding the hair follicle, and furthermore the pigmentation of the melanosomes which is perceptible with the eye or correspondingly suitable measuring methods individual hair, a selection of hair, in particular an area of hairy skin, especially the scalp, or the entire head and / or beard hair to understand.

An important application for the inhibition of melanogenesis is the face, especially the female face. Visible hair growth is particularly undesirable in the area above the upper lip in the female face, the visible "ladybeard" is perceived as a serious problem.

In order to perform the complex and sometimes painful procedure of hair removal by wax or shave in this very sensitive area of the body not or at least less often, it is desirable to reduce the visual perceptibility of renewable hair, so the skin appears longer hairless and to allow the consumer to shave / epilate the skin not at all or less often (preventing shaving or reducing shaving and epilation frequency).

Another object of the present invention is therefore the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of platycodines for the treatment of unwanted hair growth on the face, especially in the female area above the upper lip.

The use according to the invention uses platycodin (e). These are mainly from the root of the balloon flower (Platycodon grandiflorum, also Platycodon chinensis, Platycodon autumnalis, Platycodon sinensis, Platycodon stellatum, Campanula grandiflora., Campanula glauca., Campanula gentianoides) won.

auf, in der R1 für variierende Zuckerreste und R2 für variierende Alkylreste stehen. Als besonders wirkungsvoll haben sich im Rahmen der vorliegenden Erfindung Platycodine der allgemeinen Formel (I) erwiesen

in der R1 für -H oder β-D-glucopyranosyl,
R2 für -CH₃ oder CH₂OH
R3 für -H oder -C(O)-CH₃
R4 für -H oder -C(O)-CH₃
steht. Instead of the pure substances, it is also possible to use extracts, compressed juices or plant parts of said plants which contain platycodin (e). Platycodins are saponins and have the general structure

in which R1 stands for varying sugar residues and R2 stands for varying alkyl residues. In the context of the present invention, platycodines of the general formula (I) have proven to be particularly effective

in the R1 for -H or β-D-glucopyranosyl,
R2 is -CH ₃ or CH ₂ OH
R3 is -H or -C (O) -CH ₃
R4 is -H or -C (O) -CH ₃
stands.

Particularly preferred are platycodin A, platycodin C, platycodin D, platycodin D2, polygalacin D and polygalacin D2, whose radicals R 1 to R 4 can be found in the following table: R1 R2 R3 R4 platycodin A H CH ₂ OH H CO-CH ₃ platycodin C H CH ₂ OH CO-CH ₃ H platycodin D H CH ₂ OH H H platycodin D2 glc * CH ₂ OH H H polygalacin D H CH ₃ H H polygalacin D2 glc * CH ₃ H H * glc = β-D-glucopyranosyl

mit R1 = R3 = R4 = -H und R2 = -CH₂OH verwendet wird. Very particularly preferred uses according to the invention are characterized in that platycodin D of the formula (I)

with R1 = R3 = R4 = -H and R2 = -CH ₂ OH is used.

• a) 0,1–20,0 Gew.-% Sheabutter
• b) 0,00001 bis 1 Gew.-% mindestens eine Platycodins.

As already mentioned, a further subject of the present application is a cosmetic agent containing - based on its weight -

• a) 0.1-20.0% by weight shea butter
• b) 0.00001 to 1% by weight of at least one platycodin.

With regard to preferred embodiments of the agents according to the invention, what has been said for the uses according to the invention applies. The platycodins are preferably used within narrower ranges, so that preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that they contain 0.00001 to 0.5% by weight, preferably 0.00025 to 0.25% by weight, based on their weight. , more preferably 0.0005 to 0.1 wt .-%, even more preferably 0.00075 to 0.05 wt .-% and in particular 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-% platycodin (s) included.

As is the case with the uses according to the invention, the use of platycodin A, platycodin C, platycodin D, platycodin D2, polygalacin D and polygalacin D2 is particularly preferred.

mit R1 = R3 = R4 = -H und R2 = -CH₂OH enthalten. Very particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.00001 to 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.00025 to 0.25% by weight, more preferably from 0.0005 to 0 , 1 wt .-%, even more preferably 0.00075 to 0.05 wt .-% and in particular 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-% platycodin D of the formula (I)

with R1 = R3 = R4 = -H and R2 = -CH ₂ OH included.

As a second essential component, the agents according to the invention contain 0.1-20.0% by weight of shea butter. Shea butter, also known as gamba butter or shea butter, is obtained from the nuts of the karite tree (also called sheanut tree, shea butter tree or African butter tree). In the traditional mode of production, after washing and crushing the seeds by boiling in water and then skimming the top of the floating shea oil, the shea butter is obtained. Its melting range is 35 to 42 ° C. The special feature of the shea butter is the high proportion of unsaponifiable components (about 75% triterpenes, along with oleic acid, triterpene alcohols, vitamin E, beta-carotene and allantoin), the proportion is between 8-11% - compared to avocado oil 6% , Sesame oil 1.5%, olive oil 1.2%. Shea butter contains mainly long-chain, unsaturated fatty acids, main components are oleic acid (40-55%), stearic acid (35-45%), linolenic acid (3-8%) and palmitic acid (3-7%).

Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, 0.25-15.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-10.0% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0-7.5 Wt .-% and in particular 2.5 to 5.0 wt .-% shea butter.

With regard to the site of application, which may be epilated and / or shaved, it has been found preferable to incorporate substances into the compositions of the present invention which emphasize the appearance of smooth, hairless skin. A particularly preferred compound for this purpose is 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, which also has the advantage of being exceptionally compatible with playtycodines and of allowing a uniform application of the cosmetic composition.

Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, 0.1-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.25-7.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5-5% by weight. % and in particular 1.0 to 2.5 wt .-% of 2-ethylhexyl palmitate.

• a) Purin und Purin-Derivaten,
• b) natürlichen Betainverbindungen,
• c) Harnstoff und alkyl- oder hydroxyalkylsubstituierten Harnstoffen,
• d) Monomeren, Oligomeren und Polymeren von Aminosäuren, N-C₂-C₂₄-Acylaminosäuren und/oder den Estern und/oder den physiologisch verträglichen Salzen dieser Substanzen,
• e) Polysacchariden,
• f) hyperämisierenden Wirkstoffen, sowie
• g) Mischungen der Substanzen a)–f)

enthalten. It has proved to be preferred according to the invention to incorporate further care substances into the compositions according to the invention which support the action of platycodin and / or care for the sensitive skin areas and thus contribute to a neat, hairless-looking appearance. A number of specific ingredients have been found to be particularly preferred, so that preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one further active ingredient selected from

• a) purine and purine derivatives,
• b) natural betaine compounds,
• c) urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas,
• d) monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable salts of these substances,
• e) polysaccharides,
• f) hyperemic agents, as well as
• g) mixtures of substances a) -f)

contain.

As a preferred further essential ingredient, the compositions according to the invention contain purine and / or at least one derivative of purine. Purine (7H-imidazo [4,5-d] pyrimidine) does not occur freely in nature, but forms the main body of purines. Purines, in turn, are a group of important compounds naturally involved in human, animal, plant and microbial metabolic processes which are different from the parent by substitution with OH, NH ₂ , SH at the 2-, 6-, and 8-positions and / or with CH ₃ in 1-, 3-, 7-position derived. Purine can be prepared, for example, from aminoacetonitrile and formamide. Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways.

Preferred compositions according to the invention contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) in narrower ranges. Here, according to the invention preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized in that they - based on their weight - a total amount of 0.001-2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01-1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1-0.8 Wt .-% and in particular 0.2-0.5 wt .-% purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s) included.

in der die Reste R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus -H, -OH, -NH₂ und -SH und die Reste R⁴, R⁵ und R⁶ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus -H, einem C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einem C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einem (C₁- bis C₄)-Alkoxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Aminoalkylrest, einem Hydroxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylaminorest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkoxyrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-(C₁-bis C₄)-aminoalkylrest oder einem (Di-C₁- bis C₄-Alkylamino)-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Arylgruppe, insbesondere einer Phenylgruppe, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Heteroarylgruppe und einer Aryl-C₁-C₆-alkylgruppe. Among purine, the purines and the purine derivatives, some representatives are particularly preferred in the present invention. Cosmetic compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (PUR-I),

in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, -OH, -NH ₂ and -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, a C C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkoxy- (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical , a C ₁ - to C ₄ -aminoalkyl radical, a hydroxy (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkylamino radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkoxy radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl- (C ₁ -bis C ₄ ) -aminoalkyl radical or a (di-C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkylamino) - (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, an optionally substituted aryl group, in particular a phenyl group, an optionally substituted heteroaryl group and an aryl-C ₁ C ₆ alkyl group.

• – Purin (R¹ = R² = R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Adenin (R¹ = NH₂, R² = R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Guanin (R¹ = OH, R² = NH₂, R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Harnsäure (R¹ = R² = R³ = OH, R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Hypoxanthin (R¹ = OH, R² = R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – 6-Purinthiol (R¹ = SH, R² = R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – 6-Thioguanin (R¹ = SH, R² = NH₂, R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Xanthin (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Coffein (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = H, R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = CH₃)
• – Theobromin (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = R⁴ = H, R⁵ = R⁶ = CH₃)
• – Theophyllin (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = H, R⁴ = CH₃, R⁵ = CH₃, R⁶ = H).

Particularly preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (PUR-I) in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, -OH , -NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, -CH ₃ and -CH ₂ -CH ₃ , wherein the following compounds are extremely preferred:

• Purine (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Adenine (R ¹ = NH ₂ , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Guanine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Uric acid (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Hypoxanthine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• 6-purethiol (R ¹ = SH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• 6-thioguanine (R ¹ = SH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Xanthine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Caffeine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )
• - Theobromine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )
• Theophylline (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH ₃ , R ⁵ = CH ₃ , R ⁶ = H).

wobei in der Formel (PUR-II) die Reste R⁶, R⁷ und R⁸, die gleich oder verschieden sein können, bevorzugt ausgewählt sind aus einem Wasserstoffatom, einem C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einem C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einem (C₁- bis C₄)-Alkoxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Aminoalkylrest, einem Hydroxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylaminorest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkoxyrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-(C₁-bis C₄)-aminoalkylrest oder einem (Di-C₁- bis C₄-Alkylamino)-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Arylgruppe, insbesondere einer Phenylgruppe, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Heteroarylgruppe und einer Aryl-C₁-C₆-alkylgruppe, wobei Coffein (R⁶ = R⁷ = R⁸ = CH₃), Theobromin (R⁶ = H, R⁷ = R⁸ = CH₃) und Theophyllin (R⁶ = R⁷ = CH₃, R⁸ = H) außerordentlich bevorzugt sind. Compounds of the general formula (PUR-I) in which R ¹ and / or R ² correspond to an OH group exist in tautomeric compounds, especially those of the general formula (PUR-II), starting from (PUR-I) with R ¹ = R ² = OH:

in the formula (PUR-II), the radicals R ⁶ , R ⁷ and R ⁸ , which may be identical or different, are preferably selected from a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkoxy- (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -aminoalkyl radical, a hydroxyl radical (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkylamino, C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkoxy, C ₁ - to C ₄ -Hydroxyalkyl- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -aminoalkyl or a (di-C ₁ - bis C ₄ alkylamino) - (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) alkyl, an optionally substituted aryl group, in particular a phenyl group, an optionally substituted heteroaryl group and an aryl-C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group, wherein caffeine (R ⁶ = R ⁷ = R ⁸ = CH ₃ ), theobromine (R ⁶ = H, R ⁷ = R ⁸ = CH ₃ ) and theophylline (R ⁶ = R ⁷ = CH ₃ , R ⁸ = H) are extremely preferred.

wobei in der Formel (PUR-II) die Reste R⁶, R⁷ und R⁸, die gleich oder verschieden sein können, ausgewählt sind aus einem Wasserstoffatom, einem C₁-C₄-Alkylrest, einem C₁-C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einem C₂-C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einem (C₁-C₄)-Alkoxy-(C₁-C₄)-alkylrest, einem C₁-C₄-Aminoalkylrest, einem Hydroxy-(C₁-C₄)-alkylaminorest, einem C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkoxyrest, einem C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-(C₁-C₄)-aminoalkylrest oder einem (Di-C₁-C₄-Alkylamino)-(C₁-C₄)-alkylrest, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Arylgruppe, insbesondere einer Phenylgruppe, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Heteroarylgruppe und einer Aryl-C₁-C₆-alkylgruppe, sind erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt. Corresponding compositions according to the invention in which the purine derivative is selected from compounds of the general structure (PUR-II),

wherein in the formula (PUR-II), the radicals R ⁶ , R ⁷ and R ⁸ , which may be the same or different, are selected from a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, a C ₁ -C ₄ monohydroxyalkyl radical , a C ₂ -C ₄ -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkoxy- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, a C ₁ -C ₄ -aminoalkyl radical, a hydroxy- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkylamino, C ₁ -C ₄ -hydroxyalkoxy, C ₁ -C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -aminoalkyl or (di-C ₁ -C ₄ -alkylamino) - (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, an optionally substituted aryl group, in particular a phenyl group, an optionally substituted heteroaryl group and an aryl-C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group are preferred according to the invention.

Depending on the desired application of the cosmetic composition may vary the nature and amount of purine derivative. In hair cosmetic formulations and in personal care products for Cellular anticellulite treatment, caffeine has proven particularly useful, for example in shampoos, preferably in amounts of from 0.005 to 0.25% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0.05% by weight (in each case based on the shampoo) and in anticellulite agents, in particular creams, gels and lotions, preferably in amounts of 0.01-2% by weight, more preferably 0.1-1, 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.2-0.8 wt .-%, each based on the agent, can be used.

Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the at least one platycodin as further essential ingredient, at least one natural betaine compound. Natural betaine compounds used according to the invention are naturally occurring compounds with the atomic grouping R ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -X-COO ^- according to IUPAC Rule C-816.1. So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) do not fall under the betaine compounds used according to the invention, nor any other zwitterionic compounds in which the positive charge on N or P and the negative charge formally reside on O, S, B or C, but which are not of the IUPAC Comply with rule C-816.1. Betaine compounds preferred according to the invention are betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^- ) and carnitine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ -COO ^- ), each with Me = methyl.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one natural betaine compound in a total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.2 to 1 wt extremely preferably 0.3-0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the at least one platycodin as further essential ingredient, at least one substance selected from urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas.

in der R₁, R₂, R₃ und R₄ unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methyl-, Ethyl-, n-Propyl-, Isopropyl-, n-Butyl-, sek.-Butyl-, tert. Butyl- oder C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, stehen, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R₁–R₄ eine C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, darstellt. Alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea compounds which are preferred according to the invention have the general formula (UREA-I)

in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group which is substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, provided that at least one of R ₁ -R _{4 is} a C C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups.

According to the invention, particularly preferred alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea compounds of the general formula (UREA-I) are selected from compounds in which in each case at least one of the radicals R ₁ and R ₂ or R ₃ and R _{4 is} a C ₂ -C ₆ -hydroxyalkyl group which is substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups. Particularly preferred C ₂ -C ₆ -hydroxyalkyl groups which are substituted by 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl groups are selected from 2-hydroxyethyl, 3-hydroxypropyl, 2-hydroxypropyl, 2- Hydroxyisopropyl and 4-hydroxybutyl groups, with the 2-hydroxyethyl group being highly preferred. Also highly preferred is bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea. Urea itself is also particularly preferred. It is further preferred to use mixtures of urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea compounds. Extremely preferred are mixtures of urea and bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea.

Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that, in addition to the at least one platycodin, they contain as further essential ingredient at least one substance which is selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ - Acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, and mixtures of these agents.

The monomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, desmosine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine , Hydroxyproline, isodesmosine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate , Sodium decanoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, sodium cetoylglutamate and sodium stearoylglutamate. Particularly preferred are lysine, serine, zinc and sodium pyroglutamate and sodium lauroylglutamate.

The C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radical with which said amino acids are derivatized at the amino group is preferably selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl -, undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents.

With the aforementioned C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radicals, the amino acids which carry an OH group may also be esterified to this OH group. A preferred example of this according to the invention is hydroxyproline, which is N-acylated and esterified with two, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid residues, more preferably dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, which is e.g. B. Sepilift DPHP available from the company Seppic.

The physiologically acceptable salts of the preferred amino acids or amino acid derivatives according to the invention are preferably selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Particularly preferred are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, zinc and manganese salts; most preferred are the sodium, potassium and magnesium salts.

According to the invention, amino acid oligomers are peptides having 2-30, preferably 2-15, amino acids. The oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which may be N-acylated and / or esterified. Many of these amino acid oligomers stimulate collagen synthesis or are able to recruit immune system cells, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then induce tissue repair processes via the release of growth factors, eg collagen synthesis, or are able to sequence them To bind Arg-Phe-Lys in thrombospondin I (TSP-1) and thus to release active TGF-β (tissue growth factor), which induces the synthesis of collagen in dermal fibroblasts. Such amino acid oligomers are used in the art as anti-aging agents. Their use in combination with a platycodin as anti-cellulite agent is not yet known.

According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are acetyl-citrullyl-arginine (eg Exsy-algins of exsymol with the INCI name Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val- Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-β-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecyl ester (e.g., Calmosensine from Sederma), carnosine (β-Ala-His). His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg. According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides are Gly-His-Lys, z. B. under the name "Omega-CH activator" from GfN or in acylated form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) under the name Biopeptide CL is available from Sederma, but (in acylated form) also a component of the product Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma. The tripeptide Gly-His-Lys can also be used as a copper salt (Cu ²⁺ ) and is available as such from ProCyte Corporation. Furthermore, analogues of Gly-His-Lys can be used, wherein a maximum of two amino acids are substituted by suitable other amino acids. For the substitution of Gly, Ala, Leu and Ile are suitable according to the invention. The inventively preferred amino acids that can replace His or Lys include a side chain with a nitrogen atom that is predominantly charged at pH 6, eg. Pro, Lys, Arg, His, desmosine and isodesmosine. Most preferably, Lys is replaced by Arg, Orn or citrulline. A further preferred tripeptide according to the invention is Gly-His-Arg (INCI name: tripeptide-3) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, which, for. B. available under the name Collasyn 314-GR from Therapeutic Peptide Inc.; Further preferred tripeptides according to the invention are selected from Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab (Dab = diaminobutyric acid), Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Orn, Lys- Val-Dap (Dap = diaminopropionic acid), Dap-Val-Lys, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, e.g. As sold by the company Pentapharm under the name ^® SYN -COLL, Lys-Pro-Val, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val (Tripeptide-2), Tripeptide-4 (z. ATPeptides, via IMPAG), His-Ala-Orn, Gly-Asp-Ser, N-elaidoyl-Lys-Phe-Lys, and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH ₂ .

Preference according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides are selected from Rigin and Rigin-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides. Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular the invention particularly preferred N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, z. B. is available under the name Eyeliss of Sederma, but also forms part of the product Matrixyl 3000 of Sederma. The Rigin analogs include those in which the four amino acids are rearranged and / or in which a maximum of two amino acids are substituted to Rigin, z. For example, the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg. Preferably, at least one of the amino acids of the sequence has a Pro or Arg, and more preferably, the Tetrapeptide includes both Pro and Arg, and their order and position may vary. The substituting amino acids can be selected from any amino acid defined below. Particularly preferred rigin-based tetrapetides include: Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, where Xaa , Xbb and Xcc may be the same or different amino acids and wherein Xaa is selected from Gly and the amino acids that can substitute Gly, Xbb is selected from Gln and the amino acids that can substitute for Gln, Xcc is selected from Pro or Arg and the Amino acids that can substitute Pro and Arg.

The preferred amino acids that can replace Gly include an aliphatic side chain, e.g. Β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile).

The preferred amino acids which can replace Gln include a side chain having an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), e.g. Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine.

The preferred amino acids which can replace Arg include a side chain having a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin.

As Rigin analogs according to the invention Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro are preferred. ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides containing at least one amino acid with an aliphatic side chain, e.g. Β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile). Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), e.g. Gln, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine. Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Arg, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin. As the fourth amino acid, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides may contain any amino acid; however, preferably the fourth amino acid is also selected from the three abovementioned groups. Optionally N-acylated and / or esterified pentapeptides which are preferred according to the invention are selected from Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, which can be obtained under the Matrixyl is available from Sederma, further N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu, Gly- Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-benzyloxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (the latter two are serine proteinase inhibitors for desquamation inhibition). Preferred, if appropriate, N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides according to the invention are Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly under the designation Biopeptide EL from Sederma, Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg, furthermore Acetyl-Hexapeptide-3 (Argireline from Lipotec), Hexapeptide-4 (eg Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (e.g., Collasyn 614VG from TPI). Hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (e.g., Collaxyl from Vincience), and hexapeptide-10 (e.g. B. Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec), Ala-Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (hexapeptide-1), acetyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., modulene from Vincience), acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g. B. SNAP-7 from Centerchem), Hexapeptide- 2 (z. Melanostatine-DM from Vincience), Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (hexapeptide-3, e.g., Peptide 02 from Vincience), Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro, hexapeptide-4 (eg Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), hexapeptide-5 (eg Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (eg Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (eg Collasyn 614VG from TPI), Ala-Arg-His-methylnorleucine homophenylalanine Trp (hexapeptide-7), hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (e.g. Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (e.g., Collaxyl from Vincience), hexapeptide-10 (e.g., Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec) and hexapeptide-11 (e.g., Peptamide-6 from Arch Personal Care). An inventively preferred pentadecapeptide is z. As the raw material Vinci 01 by Vincience (Pentadecapeptide-1). Another preferred amino acid oligomer is the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (contained in the raw material glistin of exsymol).

An inventively particularly preferred amino acid oligomer active ingredient is the combination of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, as it is available, for example, in the raw material Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma.

Another active ingredient which is preferred according to the invention and whose presence causes an unexpected increase in the activity of the at least one platycodin is selected from polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids.

Polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids combined according to the invention are preferably selected from plant and animal protein hydrolysates and / or proteins. Animal protein hydrolysates are z. B. elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, conchiolin and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Vegetable protein hydrolysates, eg. Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. DiaMin® ^® (Diamalt) Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda). Particularly preferred are soy protein hydrolysates, more preferably soy protein hydrolysates having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 1200-1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400-1700 daltons, e.g. B. under the trade name Ridulisse C ^{® available} from the company Silab, and soy protein hydrolysates having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 600-1000 Dalton, preferably 800 Dalton, z. As available under the trade name Phytokine ^® from Coletica. with coconut fatty acids N-acylated and / or esterified Soyaproteinhydrolysaten in the form of their alkali metal salts. Coconut fatty acids include predominantly alkanecarboxylic acids having a number of carbon atoms of 8-18, especially caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic and stearic acids. Preferred alkali metal salts are selected from lithium, sodium and potassium salts, with the potassium salts being particularly preferred.

An inventively particularly preferred soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 1200-1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400-1700 daltons (Da), is available under the trade name Ridulisse C from Silab. The protein hydrolyzate content in Ridulisse C contains four molecular weight fractions: 0.8% by weight with a Mw> 12,500 Da, 22.2% by weight with 1355 Da <Mw <12,500 Da, 43.1% by weight 75 Da <Mw <1355 Da and 33.9 wt% <75 Da.

Another particularly preferred soy protein hydrolyzate according to the invention is an N-acylated and / or esterified soy protein hydrolyzate with coconut fatty acids in the form of the potassium salt, which is available from Sinerga under the trade name Coccopolipeptide di Soya. Also preferred according to the invention are keratin hydrolysates, in particular wool keratin hydrolysates. A particularly preferred wool keratin hydrolyzate is available under the name Keratec Pep from Croda. Keratec Pep has a smaller molecular weight fraction with an average molecular weight of 150 daltons and a larger molecular weight fraction with an average molecular weight of 1265 daltons. Also preferred according to the invention are conchiolin hydrolyzates, in particular those which are obtainable under the names Pearl Protein Extract and Pearl Protein Extract BG from the company Maruzen. Conchiolin is a complex protein produced from the outer epithelium of molluscs, in particular pearl shells and various types of snails, and forms the very stable shell of these molluscs by incorporation of calcium carbonate crystals.

Naturally, protein hydrolysates may also contain monomeric amino acids and oligopeptides; their composition is usually undefined.

A particularly preferred wheat protein hydrolyzate according to the invention is available under the trade name Liftiline from Silab.

Also preferred is the use of acyl derivatives of protein hydrolysates, z. In the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^{® ®} or Crotein (Croda).

Also preferred according to the invention are cationized protein hydrolysates. Particular preference is given to cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molar mass of from 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably from 250 to 5,000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives preferred according to the invention, some of the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) mentioned and commercially available Products Listed: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

In a further preferred embodiment, the polymers of the amino acids combined according to the invention are selected from DNA repair enzymes.

DNA repair enzymes preferred according to the invention are photolyase and T4 endonuclease V, the latter being abbreviated to "T4N5" below. These two enzymes are already known in the art as so-called DNA repair enzymes. DNA repair is defined as the cleavage or removal of UV-induced pyrimidine dimers from the DNA.

Photolyase is the abbreviation for deoxyribodipyrimidine photolyase or DNA photolyase, an enzyme with the classification number EC 4.1.99.3. A particularly efficient photolyase is derived from Anacystis nidulans, a phototrophic marine microorganism. The photolyase from A. nidulans is now obtained in technically relevant quantities from E. coli. Photolyase relies on light for activation.

The enzyme T4 endonuclease V is produced by the denV gene of bacteriophage T4 and belongs to the phosphodiesterases which hydrolytically cleave the nucleic acids at the (5`-3`) bond. T4N5 is also active without the influence of light.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzymes. Liposome-encapsulated photolyase is commercially available for. B. under the product name Photosome ^TM , liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. Available under the name Ultrasome ^™ from AGI Dermatics, USA.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that in addition to the at least one platycodin, they contain at least one of the commercial products Photosomes ^™ or Ultrasomes ^™ in total amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-5.0% by weight and particularly preferably 1.0-4.0 wt .-%, based on the total composition of the invention.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 1200-1800 Daltons, preferably in the range of 1400-1700 Daltons, in a total amount of 0.0001-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.001-1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01-0.1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.02-0.05 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the whole composition.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1% by weight 0.001-0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005-0.05 wt .-% and most preferably 0.006-0.01 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate in a total amount of 0.001-5.0% by weight, preferably 0.01-1.0% by weight, more preferably 0.1-0 , 5 wt .-% and most preferably 0.2-0.4 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that in addition to the at least one platycodin a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200-1800 daltons, preferably in the range 1400-1700 daltons b) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, and c) at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate in weight ratios of 1: (0.1-1) :( 1-50), preferably 1: (0.2-0, 6) :( 10-20), included.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that, in addition to the at least platycodin, they contain at least one cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, in a total amount of 0.00001-2 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001-1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.001-0.1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.01-0 , 05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition included.

Another active ingredient which is preferred according to the invention and whose presence causes an unexpected increase in the activity of at least platycodin is selected from polysaccharides. According to the invention preferred polysaccharides are those which contain at least one deoxysugar module, in particular fucose and / or rhamnose, particularly preferably selected from substances having the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-1 (for example, in the commercial product Fucogel ^® from Solabia) Rhamnosoft ^® ( INCI name Gum-2) from Solabia, Fucogenol ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-3) from Solabia and Glycofilm ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-4) from Solabia, further mixtures of the above, at least one deoxysugar block containing Biosaccharide Polysaccharides, for example the mixture of biosaccharides Gum-2 and biosaccharides Gum-3, available as a commercial product Elastinol plus ^® from Solabia. Further preferred polysaccharides according to the invention are selected from the glycosaminoglycans, more preferably hyaluronic acid, dextran, dextran sulfate, chondroitin 4-sulfate and chondroitin 6-sulfate.

Further inventively preferred polysaccharides are selected from the glucans. Glucans or polyglucosans are a class of homopolysaccharides whose monomer component is exclusively glucose. The glucose molecule can be linked in an α-glycosidic or β-glycosidic manner, branched out in different degrees or arranged linearly.

Examples of glucans are cellulose, amylose, glycogen, lichenin, alginate laminarin, tree fungus pachyman and β-1,3-linked yeast glucan; Nigeran, a mycodextran isolated from fungi (α-1,3-glucan, α-1,4-glucan) and pustulan (β-1,6-glucan).

Among other things, glucans are part of the cell wall; They are released into their milieu by numerous microorganisms under certain physiological conditions or are only synthesized there. Dextran, a primary α-1,6-linked D-glucan, is the most important in this polysaccharide group. Further technically interesting glucans which are outstandingly suitable according to the invention are curdlan (β-1,3-D-glucan), pullulan (α-1,4-bound and α-1,6-bound D-glucan) and schizophyllan (β-1, 3-base chain, β-1,6-side chain). Glucans have diverse immunomodulatory properties; cell surfaces of the human immune system contain corresponding glucan receptors.

Further polysaccharide active substances which are preferred according to the invention and whose presence causes an unexpected increase in the activity of the at least one platycodin are selected from beta- (1,3-1,4) -glucans. Especially preferred are beta- (1,3-1,4) -glucans, which have about 70% beta-1,4-glucoside linkages and about 30% beta-1,3-glucoside linkages.

Such beta- (1,3-1,4) -glucans are preferably obtainable from extracts of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract). Extracts of oat grains which are particularly preferred according to the invention are obtainable under the trade names Drago Beta Glucan (02/060800) and SymGlucan from Symrise.

Further preferred polysaccharide active compounds according to the invention whose presence brings about an unexpected increase in the activity of the at least one platycodin are selected from chemically modified cellulose derivatives, preferably hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, furthermore in particular from starches and starch degradation products such as amylose and amylopectin, chemically and / or thermally modified starches, e.g. Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, dihydroxypropyldistarch phosphate or the commercial products Dry ^Flo® , furthermore chitosan and its salts and other derivatives, furthermore polysaccharides which form gums or gums, for example guar gum, xanthan gum, alginates, in particular sodium alginate, gum arabic, karaya Gum, carrageenan, locust bean gum, linseed gums, shellac and agar-agar.

Further inventively preferred agents whose presence causes an unexpected increase in the effect of at least one platycodin are selected from hyperemic agents.

• – Nicotinsäureestern, insbesondere Nicotinsäurebenzylester (Benzylnicotinat), Nicotinsäurebutoxyethylester (Nicoboxil), Nicotinsäuremethylester, Nicotinsäureethylester, Nicotinsäurehexylester, Nicotinsäureisopropylester, Nicotinsäuremyristylester, Tetrahydrofurfuryl-Nicotinat (Thurfyl-Nicotinat) und Tetrahydrofurfuryl-Nicotinat-Hydrochlorid,
• – Pyridin-3-carbaldehyd (β-Pyridincarbaldehyd, Nicotinaldehyd),
• – Salicylsäureestern, insbesondere Phenylsalicylat,
• – Vanillylethern, insbesondere Vanillylbutylether,
• – Carbonsäurevanillylamiden, insbesondere Nonivamid (Nonansäurevanillylamid),
• – Scharfstoffen, insbesondere Capsaicin, Cantharidin, Gingerol, Zingeron, Myristicin, Safrol, Allicin, Sedamin, Sacculatal, Chalciporon, Isochalciporon, Velleral, Vellerol, und Isothiocyanaten (Senfölen), insbesondere Benzylsenföl,
• – Extrakten aus Scharfstoff-Pflanzen, insbesondere aus Capsicum, insbesondere aus Capsicum annuum und Capsicum frutescens, aber auch aus Capsicum chinense, Capsicum baccatum und Capsicum pubescens, weiterhin aus Mauerpfeffer und aus der Zaunrübe,
• – Terpentinöl,
• – sowie Mischungen hiervon.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one hyperemicating active agent which is selected from

• Nicotinic acid esters, in particular nicotinic acid benzyl ester (benzyl nicotinate), nicotinic acid butoxyethyl ester (nicoboxil), nicotinic acid methyl ester, nicotinic acid ethyl ester, nicotinic acid hexyl ester, isopropyl nicotinate, myrotic nicotinate, tetrahydrofurfuryl nicotinate (thurfyl nicotinate) and tetrahydrofurfuryl nicotinate hydrochloride,
• Pyridine-3-carbaldehyde (β-pyridinecarbaldehyde, nicotinaldehyde),
• Salicylic acid esters, especially phenylsalicylate,
• - vanillyl ethers, in particular vanillyl butyl ether,
• - Carbonsäurevanillylamiden, in particular Nonivamid (Nonansäurevanillylamid),
• - Scharfstoffen, in particular capsaicin, cantharidin, gingerol, zingerone, myristicin, safrol, allicin, sedamine, sacculatal, chalciporone, isochalciporone, velleral, vellerol, and isothiocyanates (mustard oils), in particular benzyl mustard oil,
• - Extracts from pungent plants, in particular from Capsicum, in particular from Capsicum annuum and Capsicum frutescens, but also from Capsicum chinense, Capsicum baccatum and Capsicum pubescens, furthermore from stonecrop and from the turnip,
• - turpentine oil,
• - And mixtures thereof.

The inventively preferred hyperemic active ingredients are explained in more detail below.

Nonivamid = International Free Name for N- (4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzyl) nonanamide (pelargonic acid or nonanoic acid vanillylamide, pseudocapsaicin), C ₁₇ H ₂₇ NO ₃ , M _r 293.40, mp 52-55 ° C. Nonivamid is a generic hyperemic drug in patches and ointments. vanillyl

("Vanillyl ..." according to the invention, the obsolete name (based on the outdated IUPAC rule C-411.1) for the systematic "(4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzyl) ..." or according to Chemical Abstracts: [(4-hydroxy 3-methoxyphenyl) methyl] ... mentioned atomic grouping.)

Preferred Scharfstoffe or Scharfstoff plants are: capsaicin from pepper, gingerol and ginger zingerone, myristicin from nutmeg, allicin from garlic, sedamine from stonecrop (Sedum alkaloid), Sacculatal from liverworts, chalciporon from the pepper pipe (Suillus piperatus) , Velleral of Milchling (Lactarius) varieties, isothiocyanates (mustard oils) of mustard, horseradish, cress and other cruciferous vegetables (Brassicaceae). Capsaicin [(E) -N- (4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzyl) -8-methyl-6-nonenamide; FEMA 3404].

C ₁₈ H ₂₇ NO ₃ , M _r 305.42. Monoclinic crystals, mp 64-65 ° C, barely soluble in water, readily soluble in most organic solvents. Capsaicin causes the pungent taste of paprika fruits, chillies and other Capsicum species (even at a dilution of 1:10 ⁵ ), in which it is contained at 0.3-0.5 wt .-%. Gingerol [6-gingerol, 5-hydroxy-1- (4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl) -3-decanone].

C ₁₇ H ₂₆ O ₄ , M _r 294.39, (S) form, yellow oil, soluble in organic solvents, pungent in ginger (Zingiber officinale). (R) -form, yellow oil. The racemate has similar taste properties as the (S) -enantiomer, but lacks the typical ginger odor. Zingerone [zingiberone, vanillylacetone, 4- (4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl) butan-2-one; FEMA 3124]

C ₁₁ H ₁₄ O ₃ , M _r 194.22, colorless, pungent-tasting crystals, mp 40 ° C, slightly soluble in water, soluble in ether and dilute alkalis. Zingerone is the pungent in the oleoresin of ginger, from which it can be isolated. Myristicin, safrol [5- (2-propenyl) -1,3-benzodioxole, 4-allyl-1,2-methylenedioxybenzene].

C ₁₀ H ₁₀ O ₂ , M _r 162.19, colorless to pale yellow liquid, smell of saffron, bp 232-234 ° C, prisms, melting point 11 ° C. Safrol is the main constituent of Sassafras oil (up to 90%) and occurs in larger quantities in camphor oil. In numerous other essential oils, including star anise, basil, fennel, anise, cinnamon, black pepper and nutmeg, Safrol is included in addition to smaller amounts of myristicin.

Myristicin [4-methoxy-6- (2-propenyl) -1,3-benzodioxole], C ₁₁ H ₁₂ O ₃ , M _r 192.21, oil, b.p. 149-149.5 ° C (2 kPa), 95 -97 ° C (27 Pa), soluble in ether and benzene, is found, inter alia, in parsley oil, in carrots, in aniseed oil and nutmeg, where it is accompanied by safrol and elemicin [1,2,3-trimethoxy-5- (2-propenyl) benzene]. Myristicin causes the typical nutmeg scent.

Allium

The biosynthesis of the sulfur-containing ingredients leads from sulfate via cysteine to glutathione. The SH groups of these two peptides are alkylated with methacrylic acid (from valine) or methylated in glutathione.

Stonecrop, Sedacin

At C-2 monosubstituted piperidine alkaloids from Sedum species (Crassulaceae). Sedamin is responsible for the pungent taste of the pennywort (Sedum acre). Sedamin

C ₁₄ H ₂₁ NO, M _r 219.33, m.p. 75-76 ° C. Related to sedamin include 5-hydroxysedamine, the 2'-epimer allosedamine, its N-demethyl derivative norallosedamine and the two associated hydroxy derivatives 3-hydroxyallosedamine and 3-hydroxyno-allosedamine. Sacculatal

Diterpenes such as Sacculatal, Sacculatanolid and Perrottetianal A (all: C ₂₀ H ₃₀ O ₂ , M _r 302.46), which have so far only found in liverworts Sacculatan backbone. Sacculatal, melting point 65-66 ° C, is responsible for the pungent taste of thalli of Pellia endivifolia and Trichocoleopsis sacculata. Chalciporon

C ₁₆ H ₂₁ NO, M _r 243.35, yellowish oil. Alkaloid from the Pepper Roe (Chalciporus piperatus, Basidiomycetes) responsible for the burning taste of the fungus. In addition to chalciporone and some related 2H-azepines, the corresponding 3H-azepines (eg, isochalciporone, pale yellow oil) were also isolated, which are formed from the 2H isomers by sigmatropic [1,5] -H shift, are achiral, and taste mild. Velleral

C ₁₅ H ₂₀ O ₂ , M _r 232.32, crystals, mp 86.5-87.5 ° C. Sesquiterpen from mushrooms of the genus Lactarius (milklings), Russula (Piebalds) and other Russulaceae.

mustard oils

Historically named name for organic isothiocyanates, R-N = C = S, especially for those that occur as pungent-tasting, flavor-giving constituents of the essential oils mainly in Brassicaceae (cruciferous vegetables). The mustard oils are glycosidically bound there as glucosinolates, from which they are released - with rearrangement - by thioglucosidases (example: myrosinase).

Common mustard oils are allyl mustard (allyl isothiocyanate), 3-methylthiopropyl mustard oil, butyl mustard oil, 3-butenyl mustard oil, erucine, erysoline, hirsutin, isopropyl mustard oil, β-phenylethyl mustard oil, sulforaphane and sulforaphane (raphanin).

Corresponding hyperemicating agents are commercially available, partly in a form prepared for cosmetic or dermatological compositions. Extremely preferred active ingredients according to the invention are ethyl nicotinate, vanillyl butyl ether, e.g. the raw material Hotact VBE from Takasago, Capsaicin, available e.g. As raw material Herbasol Extract Capsicum (INCI: Propylene Glycol, Aqua (Water), Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Extract, Sorbitol) and N-Vanillylnonamide (Pseudocapsaicin).

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one hyperemicating active ingredient in a total amount of active substance of 0.005-3.0% by weight, preferably 0.01-1.0, particularly preferably 0.05-0.5% by weight. % and most preferably 0.1-0.35 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

• – Apfelkernextrakten (Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract),
• – Lotuskeim-Extrakten (Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract),
• – Extrakten aus Maiskörnern (Zea Mays (Corn) Kernel Extract),
• – Rotweinextrakten,
• – Traubenkernextrakten (Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract), die bevorzugt aus der Chardonnay-Traube stammen,
• – Extrakten aus Schwarzen Holunderblüten (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract),
• – Mischungen aus mindestens einem Extrakt aus Kakaobohnen (Theobroma cacao) und mindestens einem Extrakt aus den Blättern der Pfefferminze (Mentha piperita),
• – Hydroxystilbenen und deren Estern, insbesondere Resveratrol und/oder Resveratrolmono-, -di- und -triphosphorsäureestern und deren Salzen, weiterhin aus Piceatannol, Piceatannolethern und Pinosylvin sowie Pinosylvinethern
• – Isoflavonoiden und Isoflavonoid-reichen Pflanzenextrakten,
• – Dihydroquercetin (= Taxifolin),

sowie Mischungen hiervon. Further inventively preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that in addition to the twos combination of at least one platycodin and shea butter, they contain at least one active substance which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts

• - apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract),
• - lotus germ extracts (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract),
• Corn kernel extracts (Zea mays (Corn) Kernel Extract),
• - red wine extracts,
• Grape seed extracts (Vitis vinifera (Grape) seed extract), which are preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape,
• Extracts of black elderflower (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract),
• Mixtures of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of peppermint leaves (Mentha piperita),
• Hydroxystilbenes and their esters, in particular resveratrol and / or resveratrol mono-, di- and triphosphoric acid esters and their salts, furthermore from piceatannol, piceatannol ethers and pinosylvin and also Pinosylvinethern
• Isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts,
• - dihydroquercetin (= taxifolin),

and mixtures thereof.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract). Particularly preferred apple seed extracts according to the invention are available under the trade name Ederline from Seporga. The product Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes. Ederline is once in water-soluble form as Ederline-H (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), on the other in fat-soluble form as Ederline-L (INCI: Hexyldecanol , Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract).

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the raw material Ederline in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and particularly preferably 3-5% by weight, in each case on the entire composition, included. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one apple seed extract in amounts of 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0.01-1.6% by weight and more preferably 0.03-1% by weight. %, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from lotus germ extracts. A particularly preferred lotus germ extract according to the invention is available under the trade name Lotus Germ Extract with the INCI name Water, Butylene Glycol, Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract from Maruzen.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from extracts of corn kernels (Zea mays (Corn) Kernel Extract). An extract of corn kernels which is particularly preferred according to the invention is obtainable under the trade name Deliner from Coletica.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from red wine extracts (wine extract). A particularly preferred red wine extract according to the invention is available under the trade name Sepivinol R from Seppic.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from grape seed extracts (Vitis vinifera (Grape) seed extract), which are particularly preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape. Particularly preferred grape seed extracts according to the invention are available under the trade name Herbalia Grape from Cognis or under the trade name Crodarom Chardonnay from Croda.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from extracts of black elderflower (Sambucus nigra flower extract). An invention particularly preferred extract of black elderflower is available under the trade name Sambucus AO from the company Alpaflor / Centerchem or Permcos.

Further agents preferred according to the invention which increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from mixtures of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita). Particularly preferred mixtures according to the invention of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita) - wherein aqueous, glycolic or aqueous-glycolic preparations of these extract mixtures are particularly preferred - are known under the trade names Caomint, Caophenol , Caobromine, Caospice and Caoorange available from Solabia.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from hydroxystilbenes and their esters, in particular resveratrol (trans-stilbene-3,4'-5-triol) and / or resveratrol mono- , -di- and -triphosphorsäureestern and their salts, further from Piceatannol, Piceatannolethern and Pinosylvin and Pinosylvinethern. An inventively particularly preferred Resveratrolphosphorsäureester is trisodium resveratrol triphosphates, z. Available from Ajinomoto.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts.

According to the invention, the isoflavones include the isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides. According to the invention, isoflavones are substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, it being possible for hydrogenation to be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation to form a carbonyl group in 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand. The isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin. Particularly preferred isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin.

In the isoflavone glycosides preferred according to the invention, the isoflavones are glycosidically linked via at least one hydroxy group to at least one sugar. Suitable sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose. Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides are contained in the preparations as constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a plant extract. Such vegetable substance mixtures can be obtained in a manner familiar to the person skilled in the art, for example by squeezing or extracting from plants such as soy, in particular from soybean, red clover or chickpeas. Isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of extracts obtained from soybean are particularly preferably used in the preparations according to the invention, as described, for example, under the product name Lipobelle Soyaglycone (Mibelle AG Cosmetics), Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) are commercially available. Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple seed extract, in particular the commercial product Ederline from Seporga. Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one isoflavonoid in total amounts of from 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight .-%, each based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition.

Another preferred agent of the present invention which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts is dihydroquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), also referred to as taxifolin.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active substance which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts, in a total amount of 0.000001-10% by weight, preferably 0, 00001-5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001-2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005-0.5 or 1 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

In the following, preferred further ingredients of the inventive compositions are described in more detail.

Anionic surfactants are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention. As anionic surfactants, for example, those of the sulfonate type and sulfates are used. The surfactants of the sulfonate type are preferably C _9-13 -alkylbenzenesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, ie mixtures of alkene and hydroxyalkanesulfonates and disulfonates, as are obtained, for example, from C _12-18 -monoolefins having terminal or internal double bonds by sulfonation with gaseous sulfur trioxide and subsequent alkaline or acid hydrolysis of the sulfonation products into consideration. Also suitable are alkanesulfonates which are obtained from C _12-18 alkanes, for example by sulfochlorination or sulfoxidation with subsequent hydrolysis or neutralization. Likewise, the esters of α-sulfo fatty acids (ester sulfonates), for example the α-sulfonated methyl esters of hydrogenated coconut, palm kernel or tallow fatty acids are suitable.

Further suitable anionic surfactants are sulfated fatty acid glycerol esters. Fatty acid glycerol esters are to be understood as meaning the mono-, di- and triesters and mixtures thereof, as obtained in the preparation by esterification of a monoglycerol with 1 to 3 moles of fatty acid or in the transesterification of triglycerides with 0.3 to 2 moles of glycerol. Preferred sulfated fatty acid glycerol esters are the sulfonation products of saturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, for example caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid.

Alk (en) ylsulfates are the alkali metal salts and in particular the sodium salts of the sulfuric monoesters of C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohols, for example coconut fatty alcohol, tallow fatty alcohol, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl alcohol or the C ₁₀ -C ₂₀ oxo alcohols and those half-esters of secondary alcohols of these chain lengths are preferred. Also preferred are alk (en) ylsulfates of said chain length, which contain a synthetic, produced on a petrochemical basis straight-chain alkyl radical, which have an analogous degradation behavior as the adequate compounds based on oleochemical raw materials. Of washing technology interest, the C ₁₂ -C ₁₆ alkyl sulfates and C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl sulfates and C ₁₄ -C ₁₅ alkyl sulfates are preferred. 2,3-alkyl sulfates can be obtained as commercial products from Shell Oil Company under the name DAN ^®, are suitable anionic surfactants.

The sulfuric acid monoesters of straight-chain or branched C _7-21 -alcohols ethoxylated with from 1 to 6 mol of ethylene oxide, such as 2-methyl-branched C _9-11- alcohols having on average 3.5 mol of ethylene oxide (EO) or C _12-18 . Fatty alcohols with 1 to 4 EO are suitable. Due to their high foaming behavior, they are preferably used only in relatively small amounts, for example in amounts of from 1 to 5% by weight, in detergents in particular. The agents according to the invention may preferably be free of sulfuric acid monoester.

Another class of anionic surfactants is the class of ether carboxylic acids obtainable by the reaction of fatty alcohol ethoxylates with sodium chloroacetate in the presence of basic catalysts. They have the general formula: R ¹⁰ O- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _p -CH ₂ -COOH with R ¹⁰ = C ₁ -C ₁₈ and p = 0.1 to 20. Ethercarboxylic acids are water hardness insensitive and have excellent surfactant properties on.

Suitable anionic surfactants are, for example, the partial esters of di- or polyhydroxyalkanes, mono- and disaccharides, polyethylene glycols with the EO adducts of maleic anhydride to at least monounsaturated carboxylic acids having a chain length of 10 to 25 carbon atoms with an acid number of 10 to 140.

Preferred anionic surfactants have in addition to an unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, acyclic or cyclic, optionally alkoxylated Alkyl radical having 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 20, in particular 8 to 18, particularly preferably 10 to 16, very preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms, two or more anionic, in particular two, acid groups, preferably carboxylate, sulfonate and / or sulfate groups, in particular a carboxylate and a sulfate group, on. Examples of these compounds are the alpha sulfo fatty acid salts, the acyl glutamates, the monoglyceride disulfates and the alkyl ethers of the glycerol disulfate, and in particular the monoester sulfosuccinates described below.

Particularly preferred anionic surfactants are the sulfosuccinates, sulfosuccinamates and sulfosuccinamides, especially sulfosuccinates and sulfosuccinamates, most preferably sulfosuccinates. The sulfosuccinates are the salts of the mono- and di-esters of sulfosuccinic acid HOOCCH (SO ₃ H) CH ₂ COOH, while the sulfosuccinamates are the salts of the monoamides of sulfosuccinic acid and the sulfosuccinamides are the salts of the diamides of sulfosuccinic acid ,

The salts are preferably alkali metal salts, ammonium salts and mono-, di- or trialkanolammonium salts, for example mono-, di- or triethanolammonium salts, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium or ammonium salts, particularly preferably sodium or ammonium salts , most preferably sodium salts.

In the sulfosuccinates, one or both carboxyl groups of the sulfosuccinic acid is preferably with one or two identical or different unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated, acyclic or cyclic, optionally alkoxylated alcohols having 4 to 22, preferably 6 to 20, in particular 8 to 18 , more preferably 10 to 16, most preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms esterified. Particularly preferred are the esters of unbranched and / or saturated and / or acyclic and / or alkoxylated alcohols, in particular unbranched, saturated fatty alcohols and / or unbranched, saturated, with ethylene and / or propylene oxide, preferably ethylene oxide, alkoxylated fatty alcohols having a degree of alkoxylation of 1 to 20, preferably 1 to 15, in particular 1 to 10, more preferably 1 to 6, most preferably 1 to 4. The monoesters are preferred in the context of the present invention over the diesters. A particularly preferred sulfosuccinate is Sulfobernsteinsäurelaurylpolyglycolester-di-sodium salt (lauryl EO sulfosuccinate, di-sodium salt; INCI Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate), for example, as Tego ^® sulfosuccinate F 30 (Goldschmidt) with a sulfosuccinate of 30 parts by weight % is commercially available.

In the sulfosuccinamates or sulfosuccinamides, one or both form carboxyl groups of the sulfosuccinic acid preferably with a primary or secondary amine having one or two identical or different, unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated, acyclic or cyclic, optionally alkoxylated alkyl radicals having 4 to 22 , preferably 6 to 20, in particular 8 to 18, more preferably 10 to 16, most preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms carries, a carboxylic acid amide. Particular preference is given to unbranched and / or saturated and / or acyclic alkyl radicals, in particular unbranched, saturated fatty alkyl radicals.

Also suitable are, for example, the following sulfosuccinates and sulfosuccinamates designated according to INCI: ammonium dinonyl sulfosuccinates, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinates, diammonium dimethicone copolyol sulfosuccinates, diammonium lauramido-MEA sulfosuccinates, diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinates, diammonium oleamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate, Diamyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dicapryl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dicyclohexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Diheptyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dihexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Diisobutyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cetearyl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cocamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cocamido Glucoside Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cocoyl Butyl Gluceth-10 sulfosuccinates, disodium C12-15 pareth sulfosuccinates, disodium deceth-5 sulfosuccinates, disodium deceth-6 sulfosuccinates, disodium dihydroxyethyl sulfosuccinyl undecylenates, disodium dimethi Disodium Isostearamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Isostearamido MIPA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Isostearyl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Laneth-5 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Lauramido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Lauramido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Lauramido PEG-5 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Laureth-6 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Laureth-9 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Laureth-12 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Myristamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Nonoxynol-10 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Oleamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Oleamido MIPA- Sulfosuccinates, disodium oleamido PEG-2 sulfosuccinates, disodium oleth-3 sulfosuccinates, disodium oleyl sulfosuccinates, disodium palmitamido PEG-2 sulfosuccinates, disodium palmitoleeamido PEG-2 sulfosuccinates, disodium PEG-4 cocamido MIPA sulfosuccinates, disodium PEG-5 lauryl citrate sulfosuccinates, disodium PEG-8 Palm Gl ycerides sulfosuccinates, disodium Ricinoleamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Sitostereth-14 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Stearamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Stearyl Sulfosuccinamate, Disodium Stearyl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Tallamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Tallowamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Tallow Sulfosuccinamate, Disodium Tridecyl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Undecylenamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Undecylenamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Wheat Germamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Wheat Germamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate, Di-TEA Oleamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate, Ditridecyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Sodium Bisglycol Ricinosulfosuccinate, Sodium / MEA Laureth-2 Sulfosuccinate and Tetrasodium Dicarboxyethyl Stearyl sulfosuccinamate. Yet another suitable sulfosuccinamate is disodium C _16-18 alkoxypropylene sulfosuccinamate.

Another suitable class of compounds are anionic surfactant-cation complexes, the cation itself initially having surfactant properties. Examples are transesterification products of LAS acid with amines, amine derivatives containing a C chain with> 2 C atoms, preferably C ₁₂ -C ₁₆ . These can be oxidized, for example, on the nitrogen, ie for example transesterification of LAS acid with amine oxide C _12-14 .

The content of anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention, preferably of the anionic surfactants mentioned, can vary within wide ranges, depending on the purpose of the agent in question. Thus, an agent according to the invention can contain very large amounts of anionic surfactant, preferably up to an order of magnitude of up to 40, 50 or 60 parts by weight or more. Likewise, an agent according to the invention may contain only very small amounts of anionic surfactant, for example less than 15 or 10% by weight or less than 5% by weight or even less. However, anionic surfactants are advantageously present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 40% by weight and in particular from 5 to 30% by weight, with concentrations above 10% by weight and even above 15% by weight being particular Find favor. According to a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains anionic surfactants, preferably in amounts of at least 0.01% by weight, based on the total agent. In another preferred embodiment, the agent of the invention may be free of anionic surfactant.

In addition to the anionic surfactants mentioned, but also independently of these, soaps may be present in the compositions according to the invention. Particularly suitable are saturated fatty acid soaps, such as the salts of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, hydrogenated erucic acid and behenic acid, and in particular of natural fatty acids, e.g. Coconut, palm kernel or tallow fatty acids, derived soap mixtures. The content of the composition of soaps, independently of other anionic surfactants, is preferably not more than 3% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total agent. According to another preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is free of soap.

The anionic surfactants and soaps may be in the form of their sodium, potassium or ammonium salts and as soluble salts of organic bases, such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine. Preferably, they are in the form of their sodium or potassium salts, especially in the form of the sodium salts. Anionic surfactants and soaps may also be prepared in situ by incorporating into the spray-dried composition the anionic surfactant acids and optionally fatty acids which are then neutralized by the alkali carriers in the spray-dried composition.

Advantageously, nonionic surfactants may also be included in the compositions of the invention, both in solid and in liquid compositions. For example, their content may be up to 2 or 3 or 5 wt .-%. It may also contain larger amounts of nonionic surfactant, for example up to 5 wt .-% or 10 wt .-% or 15 wt .-% or 20 wt .-%, 30 wt .-%, 40 wt .-%, 50% by weight or even beyond, if appropriate. Useful lower limits may be at values of 0.01, 0.1, 1, 2, 3 or 4 wt .-%.

Preferably, however, the nonionic surfactants are in relatively large amounts, ie up to 50% by weight, advantageously from 0.1 to 40% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 30 and in particular from 2 to 25% by weight, in each case based on the total agent included. According to a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains nonionic surfactants, preferably in amounts of at least 0.1% by weight, based on the total agent. According to another preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention may be free from nonionic surfactant.

Advantageously, all known from the prior art nonionic surfactants may be included in the inventive compositions. Preferred nonionic surfactants are presented below.

The skin treatment compositions according to the invention may preferably also contain at least one cationic surfactant. Suitable cationic surfactants are, for example, surface-active quaternary Compounds, in particular with an ammonium, sulfonium, phosphonium, iodonium or arsonium group. Through the use of quaternary surface-active compounds with antimicrobial action, the agent can be designed with an antimicrobial effect or its possibly existing antimicrobial effect due to other ingredients can be improved.

Particularly preferred cationic surfactants are the quaternary, partially antimicrobial ammonium compounds (QAV, INCI quaternary ammonium compounds) according to the general formula (R ^I ) (R ^II ) (R ^III ) (R ^IV ) N ⁺ X ^- , in which R ^I to R ^IV identical or different C _1-22 alkyl radicals' C _7-28 -Aralkyl radicals or heterocyclic radicals, wherein two or in the case of an aromatic inclusion as in pyridine even three radicals together with the nitrogen atom, the heterocycle, for example a pyridinium or Imidazolinium compound, form, and are X ^- halide ions, sulfate ions, hydroxide ions, or similar anions. For optimum antimicrobial activity, preferably at least one of the radicals has a chain length of 8 to 18, in particular 12 to 16, carbon atoms.

QACs are prepared by reacting tertiary amines with alkylating agents, e.g. Methyl chloride, benzyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate, dodecyl bromide, but also ethylene oxide produced. The alkylation of tertiary amines with a long alkyl radical and two methyl groups succeeds particularly easily, and the quaternization of tertiary amines with two long radicals and one methyl group can be carried out with the aid of methyl chloride under mild conditions. Amines having three long alkyl radicals or hydroxy-substituted alkyl radicals are less reactive and are preferably quaternized with dimethyl sulfate.

Suitable QAVs are, for example, benzalkonium chloride (N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylbenzylammonium chloride, CAS No. 8001-54-5), benzalkone B (m, p-dichlorobenzyl-dimethyl-C ₁₂ -alkylammonium chloride, CAS No. 58390-78 -6), benzoxonium chloride (benzyldodecyl-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride), cetrimonium bromide (N-hexadecyl-N, N-trimethyl-ammonium bromide, CAS No. 57-09-0), benzetonium chloride (N, N Dimethyl N- [2- [2- [p- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenoxy] ethoxy] ethyl] benzylammonium chloride, CAS No. 121-54-0), dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides such as di-n -decyldimethylammonium chloride (CAS No. 7173-51-5-5), didecyldimethylammonium bromide (CAS No. 2390-68-3), dioctyldimethylammoniumchloric, 1-cetylpyridiniumchloride (CAS No. 123-03-5) and thiazoline iodide (CAS No. 15764-48-1) and mixtures thereof. Preferred QACs are the benzalkonium chlorides having C ₈ -C ₁₈ -alkyl radicals, in particular C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ -alkyl-benzyl-dimethylammonium chloride. A particularly preferred QAC Kokospentaethoxymethylammoniummethosulfat (INCI PEG-5 Cocomonium Methosulfate; Rewoquat CPEM ^®).

In order to avoid possible incompatibilities of the antimicrobial cationic surfactants with anionic surfactants contained in the agent according to the invention anionic surfactant compatible and / or optionally cationic surfactant are preferably used or omitted in a particular embodiment of the invention entirely on cationic surfactants.

Further below, in particular in connection with conditioning agents and plasticizers, further cationic surfactants, including quaternary ammonium compounds, are described. These too may preferably be contained in the agents according to the invention.

The skin-treating agents of the invention may contain one or more cationic surfactants, advantageously in amounts, based on the total composition, of from 0 to 30% by weight, more preferably greater than 0 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight. , in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-%. Suitable minimum values may also be 0.5, 1, 2 or 3 wt .-%. According to a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains cationic surfactants, preferably in amounts of at least 0.1% by weight, based on the total agent. According to another preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention may be free of cationic surfactant.

Likewise, the skin treatment compositions according to the invention may also contain at least one amphoteric surfactant. These are described in more detail below, in particular in connection with conditioning agents and plasticizers.

The skin treatment compositions of the invention may contain one or more amphoteric surfactants, advantageously in amounts, based on the total composition, of from 0 to 30% by weight, more preferably greater than 0 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight. , in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-%. In another preferred embodiment, the agent of the invention may be free of amphoteric surfactants.

According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention may contain only very little total surfactant, eg the total amount of surfactant may be less than 20% by weight, 15% by weight, 10% by weight or 5% by weight, advantageously even less than 3% by weight. % or less than 1% by weight, in particular even less than 0.5% by weight or less than 0.1% by weight,% by weight, based in each case on the entire composition. However, the total surfactant content is preferably at least 0.01% by weight, 0.1% by weight or 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Soluble complexing agents may preferably be used in amounts of from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 25% by weight and particularly preferably from 10% by weight to 20% by weight, of the composition according to the invention. , based on the total weight of the agent, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and its sodium salts being particularly preferred as soluble complexing agents. However, it can also be advantageously provided that the agent according to the invention contains less than 10% by weight, for example less than 5% by weight, of soluble complexing agents. For example, citrates, SKS-6, citric acid, MGDA (methyl glycine di-acetic acid), triphosphates, phosphonates, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (e.g., adipic, glutaric, succinic) are suitable.

In another preferred embodiment, the agent of the invention may be free of soluble complexing agents.

Further suitable organic complexing agents are dextrins, for example oligomers or polymers of carbohydrates, which can be obtained by partial hydrolysis of starches. The hydrolysis can be carried out by customary, for example acid or enzyme catalyzed processes. Preferably, it is hydrolysis products having average molecular weights in the range of 400 to 500,000 g / mol. In this case, a polysaccharide with a dextrose equivalent (DE) in the range from 0.5 to 40, in particular from 2 to 30 is preferred, DE being a common measure of the reducing action of a polysaccharide compared to dextrose, which has a DE of 100 , is. Both maltodextrins with a DE of between 3 and 20 and dry glucose syrups with a DE of between 20 and 37 and also so-called yellow dextrins and white dextrins with relatively high molecular weights in the range from 2000 to 30 000 g / mol are useful. The oxidized derivatives of such dextrins are their reaction products with oxidizing agents which are capable of oxidizing at least one alcohol function of the saccharide ring to the carboxylic acid function.

Oxydisuccinates and other derivatives of disuccinates, preferably ethylenediamine disuccinate, are other suitable co-builders. In this case, ethylenediamine-N, N'-disuccinate (EDDS) is preferably used in the form of its sodium or magnesium salts. Also preferred in this context are glycerol disuccinates and glycerol trisuccinates. Suitable amounts are, for example, 3 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total agent.

Further useful organic co-complexing agents are, for example, acetylated hydroxycarboxylic acids or salts thereof, which may optionally also be present in lactone form and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group and a maximum of two acid groups.

Another class of substances with co-complexing properties are the phosphonates. These are, in particular, hydroxyalkane or aminoalkanephosphonates. Among the hydroxyalkane phosphonates, 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonate (HEDP) is of particular importance as a co-complexing agent. It is preferably used as the sodium salt, the disodium salt neutral and the tetrasodium salt alkaline (pH 9). Preferred aminoalkanephosphonates are ethylenediamine tetramethylenephosphonate (EDTMP), diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonate (DTPMP) and their higher homologs. They are preferably in the form of the neutral reacting sodium salts, e.g. as the hexasodium salt of EDTMP or as the hepta- and octa-sodium salt of DTPMP. The builder used here is preferably HEDP from the class of phosphonates. The aminoalkanephosphonates also have a pronounced heavy metal binding capacity. Accordingly, in particular if the agents also contain bleach, it may be preferable to use aminoalkanephosphonates, in particular DTPMP, or to use mixtures of the phosphonates mentioned.

Preferred organic complexing agents are, for example, the polycarboxylic acids which can be used in the form of their alkali metal salts and, in particular, sodium salts, such as citric acid, adipic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, tartaric acid, sugar acids, aminocarboxylic acids, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), if such use is not objectionable for ecological reasons, and Mixtures of these. Preferred salts are the salts of polycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, adipic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, tartaric acid, sugar acids and mixtures thereof. The acids themselves can also be used. In addition to their complexing action, the acids also typically have the property of an acidifying component and thus also serve to set a lower and milder pH value of preferred inventive Skin treatment agent. In particular, citric acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, gluconic acid and any desired mixtures of these can be mentioned here.

Chelating agents (INCI), also called sequestering agents, are ingredients that are capable of complexing and inactivating metal ions, for example, to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of the agents, for example clouding. On the one hand, it is important to complex the incompatible with numerous ingredients calcium and magnesium ions of water hardness. The complexation of the ions of heavy metals such as iron or copper retards the oxidative decomposition of the finished agents.

For example, the following complexing agents designated according to INCI are suitable: Aminotrimethylene Phosphonic Acid, Beta-Alanine Diacetic Acid, Calcium Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Cyclodextrin, Cyclohexanediamine Tetraacetic Acid, Diammonium Citrate, Diammonium EDTA, Diethylenetriamine Pentamethylene Phosphonic Acid, Dipotassium EDTA, Disodium Azacycloheptane Diphosphonate, Disodium EDTA, Disodium Pyrophosphate, EDTA, Etidronic Acid, Galactic Acid, Gluconic Acid, Glucuronic Acid, HEDTA, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Methyl Cyclodextrin, Pentapotassium Triphosphate, Pentasodium Aminotrimethylene Phosphonate, Pentasodium Ethylene Diamines Tetramethylene Phosphonates, Pentasodium Pentetates, Pentasodium Triphosphates, Pentetic Acid, Phytic Acid, Potassium Citrate, Potassium EDTMP, Potassium Gluconates, Potassium Polyphosphates, Potassium Trisphosphonomethylamine Oxides, Ribonic Acid, Sodiu m Chitosan Methylene Phosphonates, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Diethylenetriamine Pentamethylene Phosphonates, Sodium Dihydroxyethylglycinate, Sodium EDTMP, Sodium Gluceptate, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Glycereth-1 Polyphosphate, Sodium Hexametaphosphate, Sodium Metaphosphate, Sodium Metasilicate, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Polydimethylglycinophenolsulfonate, Sodium Trimetaphosphate, TEA -EDTA, TEA Polyphosphate, Tetrahydroxyethyl Ethylenediamine, Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine, Tetrapotassium Etidronate, Tetrapotassium Pyrophosphate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Tetrasodium Pyrophosphate, Tripotassium EDTA, Trisodium Dicarboxymethyl Alaninate, Trisodium EDTA, Trisodium HEDTA, Trisodium NTA and Trisodium Phosphate.

Preferred complexing agents are tertiary amines, in particular tertiary alkanolamines (amino alcohols). The alkanolamines have both amino and hydroxy and / or ether groups as functional groups. Particularly preferred tertiary alkanolamines are tri-ethanolamine and tetra-2-hydroxypropyl-ethylenediamine (N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxy-propyl) ethylenediamine). Particularly preferred combinations of tertiary amines with Zinkricinoleat and one or more ethoxylated fatty alcohols as nonionic solubilizers and optionally solvents are described in the prior art.

A particularly preferred complexing agent is etidronic acid (1-hydroxyethylidene-1,1-diphosphonic acid, 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid, HEDP, acetophosphonic acid, INCI Etidronic Acid) including their salts. In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention accordingly contains etidronic acid and / or one or more of its salts as complexing agent.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains a complexing agent combination of one or more tertiary amines and one or more further complexing agents, preferably one or more complexing acids or salts thereof, in particular triethanolamine and / or tetra-2-hydroxypropylethylenediamine and etidronic acid and / or a or more of their salts.

The composition of the invention preferably contains at least one complexing agent in a total amount of usually 0 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 8 wt. -%, most preferably 1.5 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total agent.

It should be noted at this point that the term% by weight, unless otherwise indicated, refers to the entire average.

The content of water in preferred agents according to the invention depends i.a. Accordingly, whether the agent is in liquid or solid form, is therefore preferably 0 to less than 100 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 95 wt .-%, with values of at most 5 wt .-%, in particular for solid or non-aqueous find special preference for liquid funds. Not included here was the water of crystallization present in individual raw materials, in particular the antiperspirant aluminum and / or zirconium compounds.

In the case of liquid agents, the composition of the invention according to a preferred embodiment contains water in an amount of more than 20 wt .-%, advantageously more than 30 wt .-%., More preferably more than 40 wt .-%, even more advantageous as 50 wt .-%, in particular 60 to 99 wt .-%, particularly preferably 70 to 98 wt .-% and most preferably 80 to 95 wt .-%, based on the total agent.

The upper limit of water may also be 80 wt%, 70 wt%, 60 wt%, 50 wt%, 40 wt%, 30 wt%, 20 wt%, or 10 Wt .-% wt .-%, based on the total agent.

The lower limit of water may e.g. also at 80 wt .-%, 70 wt .-%, 60 wt .-%, 50 wt .-%, 40 wt .-%, 30 wt .-%, 20 wt .-% or 10 wt .-% are , relative to the entire remedy.

Of course, the above upper and lower limits can be meaningfully combined, e.g. to water contents of 60-80 wt.% or 10-30 wt.%, etc.

In a further preferred embodiment, the skin treatment composition according to the invention additionally contains at least one UV-absorbing substance. When used in small amounts (up to about 1 wt .-%), the UV-absorbing substance is used to advantageously improve the light resistance of other formulation ingredients (product protection). When used in higher amounts (greater than 1% by weight), the UV-absorbing substance serves to protect the treated skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation. Under UV-absorbing substance are organic and inorganic substances (sunscreen) to understand, which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg heat to give back. Compounds having these desired properties include, for example, the non-radiative deactivating compounds and derivatives of benzophenone having substituents in the 2- and / or 4-position. Also suitable are substituted benzotriazoles, phenyl-substituted acrylates (cinnamic acid derivatives) in the 3-position, optionally with cyano groups in the 2-position, salicylates and natural substances such as umbelliferone and the endogenous urocanic acid. The biphenyl and especially stilbene derivatives, commercially available as Tinosorb ^® FD or Tinosorb ^® FR available ex Ciba. 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcamphor and derivatives thereof, for example 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, may be mentioned as UV-B absorbers; 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester; Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid iso-amyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene); Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate; Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate; Triazine derivatives, such as 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and Octyl Triazone or Dioctyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb HEB ^®); Propane-1,3-diones such as 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione; Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives. Also suitable are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts; Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts; Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-boryl-nylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

As a typical UV-A filter in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane are suitable, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds. Of course, the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble photoprotective pigments, namely finely dispersed, preferably nano-metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are in particular zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. As salts silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used. The oxides and salts are already used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably from 5 to 50 nm and in particular from 15 to 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, for example Titandioxid T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). As a hydrophobic coating agent In particular, silicones and especially trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones are suitable. Also preferably, micronized zinc oxide can be used. Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the relevant prior art.

The at least one UV-absorbing substance is in preferred skin treatment compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-10 wt .-%, most preferably 2 wt .-% to 7 wt .-%, contain. These amounts do not include the at least one photocatalytically active metal oxide used according to the invention which can also absorb in the UV range.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention are in liquid form. To achieve a liquid consistency, the use of both liquid organic solvents and water may be indicated. Therefore, preferred agents according to the invention optionally contain at least one solvent.

Solvents which can be used in preferred agents according to the invention originate, for example, from the group of monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, alkanolamines or glycol ethers, provided they are miscible with water in the concentration range indicated. Preferably, the solvents are selected from ethanol, n- or i-propanol, butanols, glycol, propane or butanediol, glycerol, diglyol, propyl or butyl diglycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol methyl ether, ethylene glycol ethyl ether, ethylene glycol propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono n-butyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ether, diethylene glycol ethyl ether, propylene glycol methyl, ethyl or propyl ether, butoxy-propoxy-propanol (BPP), dipropylene glycol monomethyl, or ethyl ether, di-isopropylene glycol monomethyl, or ethyl ether, methoxy, ethoxy or Butoxytriglycol, 1-butoxyethoxy-2-propanol, 3-methyl-3-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol t-butyl ether and mixtures of these solvents.

Some glycol ethers are available under the trade name Arcosolv ^® (Arco Chemical Co.) or Cellosolve ^®, carbitol ^® or Propasol ^® (Union Carbide Corp.); this includes for example ButylCarbitol® ^®, hexyl carbitol ^®, MethylCarbitol® ^®, and carbitol ^® itself, (2- (2-ethoxy) ethoxy) ethanol. The choice of glycol ether can be readily made by one skilled in the art on the basis of its volatility, water solubility, weight percent of the total dispersion, and the like. Pyrrolidone solvents, such as N-alkyl-pyrrolidones, for example N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone or NC ₈ -C ₁₂ -alkyl-pyrrolidone, or 2-pyrrolidone, may also be used. Also preferred as the sole solvent or as part of a solvent mixture are glycerol derivatives, in particular glycerol carbonate.

Among the alcohols which may be preferably used as cosolvents in the present invention are low molecular weight liquid polyethylene glycols, for example, polyethylene glycols having a molecular weight of 200, 300, 400 or 600. Further suitable cosolvents are other alcohols, for example (a) lower alcohols such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and n-butanol, (b) ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone, (c) C ₂ -C ₄ polyols such as a diol or a triol, for example ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol or mixtures thereof. Especially preferred is 1,2-octanediol from the class of diols.

In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains one or more solvents from the group comprising C ₁ to C ₄ monoalcohols, C ₂ to C ₆ glycols, C ₃ to C ₁₂ glycol ethers and glycerol, in particular ethanol , The C ₃ - to C ₁₂ glycol ethers according to the invention contain alkyl or alkenyl groups having less than 10 carbon atoms, preferably up to 8, in particular up to 6, more preferably 1 to 4 and most preferably 2 to 3 carbon atoms.

Preferred C ₁ to C ₄ monohydric alcohols are ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol and tert-butanol. Preferred C ₂ to C ₆ glycols are ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol and 1,6-hexanediol, especially ethylene glycol and 1,2-propylene glycol. Preferred C ₃ - to C ₁₂ glycol ethers are di-, tri-, tetra- and pentaethylene glycol, di-, tri- and tetrapropylene glycol, propylene glycol monotertiary butyl ether and propylene glycol monoethyl ether and the solvents designated according to INCI butoxydiglycol, butoxyethanol, butoxyisopropanol, butoxypropanol, butyloctanol, ethoxydiglycol, Ethoxyethanol, ethyl hexanediol, isobutoxypropanol, isopentyldiol, 3-methoxybutanol, methoxyethanol, methoxyisopropanol and methoxymethylbutanol.

Preferred agents according to the invention comprise one or more solvents in a total amount of usually up to 90% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular 2 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 3 to 15 wt .-%, most preferably 5 to 12 wt .-%, for example 5.3 or 10.6 wt .-%, each based on the total agent.

Dyes can be used optionally in the composition according to the invention, wherein the amount of one or more dyes is to be chosen so small that remain after application of the agent no visible residues. Preferably, the agent according to the invention is free of dyes.

The agent according to the invention may preferably contain one or more antimicrobial agents or preservatives in an amount of usually 0.0001 to 3 wt.%, Preferably 0.0001 to 2 wt.%, In particular 0.0002 to 1 wt. more preferably 0.0002 to 0.2% by weight, most preferably 0.0003 to 0.1% by weight.

Antimicrobial agents or preservatives are differentiated depending on the antimicrobial spectrum and mechanism of action between bacteriostats and bactericides, fungistatics and fungicides, etc. Important substances from these groups are, for example, benzalkonium chlorides, alkylarylsulfonates, halophenols and phenol mercuriacetate. The terms antimicrobial action and antimicrobial agent have the usual meaning within the scope of the teaching according to the invention. Suitable antimicrobial agents are preferably selected from the groups of the alcohols, amines, aldehydes, antimicrobial acids or their salts, carboxylic acid esters, acid amides, phenols, phenol derivatives, diphenyls, diphenylalkanes, urea derivatives, oxygen, nitrogen acetals and formals, benzamidines, isothiazolines , Phthalimide derivatives, pyridine derivatives, antimicrobial surface active compounds, guanidines, antimicrobial amphoteric compounds, quinolines, 1,2-dibromo-2,4-di-cyanobutane, iodo-2-propyl-butyl-carbamate, iodine, iodophores, peroxo compounds, halogen compounds and any Mixtures of the preceding.

The antimicrobial agent may be selected from ethanol, n-propanol, i-propanol, 1,3-butanediol, phenoxyethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, undecylenic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid, dihydracetic acid, o-phenylphenol, N-propanol. Methylmorpholine-acetonitrile (MMA), 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 2,2'-methylenebis (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 4,4'-di-chloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether ( Dichlosan), 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (trichloroan), chlorhexidine, N- (4-chlorophenyl) N- (3,4-dichlorophenyl) -urea, N, N '- (1.10 decane diyldi-1-pyridinyl-4-ylidene) bis (1-octanamine) dihydrochloride, N, N'-bis (4-chlorophenyl) -3,12-diimino-2,4,11,13- tetraaza-tetradecandiimidamide, glucoprotamines, antimicrobial quaternary surface active compounds, guanidines including the di- and polyguanidine diols such as 1,6-bis (2-ethylhexyl-biguanido-hexane) dihydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-phenyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') -hexane-tetrahydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-phenyl-N ₁ , N ₁ -methyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') -hexane-dihydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ ' -o-chlorophenyl-diguanido- N ₅ , N ₅ ') -hexane-dihydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-2,6-dichlorophenyldiguanido-N _5, N _5') hexane dihydrochloride, 1,6-di [N _1, N ₁ '-beta- (p-methoxyphenyl) diguanido-N _5, N _5' ] hexane-dihydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-α-alpha-beta-phenyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') -hexane dihydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '- p -nitrophenyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') hexane dihydrochloride, omega: omega-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-phenyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') -di-n propyl ether dihydrochloride, omega: omega'-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-p-chlorophenyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') di-n-propyl ether tetrahydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-2,4-dichlorophenyldiguanido-N _5, N _5') hexane tetrahydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N _1, N ₁ '-p-methylphe-nyldiguanido-N _5, N _5') -hexane dihydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-2,4,5-trichlorophenyl-guanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') hexane-tetrahydro-chloride, 1,6-di- [N ₁ , N ₁ '-alpha - (p-chlorophenyl) ethyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ '] hexane dihydrochloride, omega: omega-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ ' -p-chloro phe-nyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') m-xylenedihydrochloride, 1,12-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ ' -p-chlorophenyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') dodecane dihydrochloride, 1, 10-di (N ₁ , N ₁ '-phenyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') decane-tetrahydrochloride, 1,12-di (N ₁ , N ₁ '-phenyl-diguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') dodecane tetrahydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-o-chlorophenyl-guanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') hexane dihydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-o-chlorophenyldiguanido -N ₅ , N ₅ ') hexane-tetrahydrochloride, ethylene-bis- (1-tolyl biguanide), ethylene-bis- (p-tolyl biguanide), ethylene-bis- (3,5-dimethylphenylbiguanide), ethylene-bis- (p-tert-amylphenylbiguanide), ethylene-bis (nonylphenylbiguanide), ethylene-bis (phenylbifluoride), ethylene-bis (N-butylphenylbiguanide), ethylene-bis (2,5-diethoxyphenylbiguanide), ethylene-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl biguanide), ethylene bis (o-diphenylbiguanide), ethylene bis (mixed amyl naphthyl biguanide), N-butyl ethylene bis (phenylbiguanide), trimethylene bis (o-tolyl biguanide), N-butyl trimethyl-bis (phenyl biguanide) and the corresponding salts such as A cetates, gluconates, hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, citrates, bisulfites, fluorides, polymaleates, N-cocosalkyl sarcosinates, phosphites, hypophosphites, perfluorooctanoates, silicates, sorbates, salicylates, maleates, tartrates, fumarates, ethylenediaminetetraacetates, iminodiacetates, cinnamates, thiocyanates, arginates, pyromellitates, Tetracarboxybutyrates, benzoates, glutarates, monofluorophosphates, perfluoropropionates and any mixtures thereof. Also suitable are halogenated xylene and cresol derivatives, such as p-chloromethacresol or p-chlorometaxylene, as well as natural antimicrobial agents of plant origin (eg from spices or herbs), of animal and microbial origin. Preferably, antimicrobial surface-active quaternary compounds, a natural antimicrobial agent of plant origin and / or a natural antimicrobial agent of animal origin, most preferably at least one natural antimicrobial agent of plant origin from the group, comprising caffeine, theobromine and theophylline, as well as essential oils such as eugenol, thymol and geraniol, and / or at least one natural antimicrobial agent of animal origin from the group, comprising enzymes such as milk protein, lysozyme and lactoperoxidase, and / or at least one antimicrobial surface-active quaternary Compound with an ammonium, sulfonium, phosphonium, iodonium or Arsoniumgruppe, peroxo compounds and chlorine compounds are used. Also substances of microbial origin, so-called bacteriocins, can be used. Glycine, glycine derivatives, formaldehyde, compounds which readily split off formaldehyde, formic acid and peroxides are preferably used.

The suitable as antimicrobial agents quaternary ammonium compounds (QAV) have been described above. Is particularly suitable, for example, benzalkonium chloride, etc. Benzalkonium halides and / or substituted benzalkonium halides are for example commercially available as Barquat ^® ex Lonza, Marquat® ^® ex Mason, Variquat ^® ex Witco / Sherex and Hyamine ^® ex Lonza and as Bardac ^® ex Lonza. Other commercially obtainable antimicrobial agents are N- (3-chloroallyl) hexaminium chloride such as Dowicide and Dowicil ^{® ®} ex Dow, benzethonium chloride such as Hyamine ^® 1622 ex Rohm & Haas, methylbenzethonium as Hyamine ^® 10X ex Rohm & Haas, cetylpyridinium chloride such as Cepacol ex Merrell Labs ,

in der R₁, R₂, R₃ und R₄ unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methyl-, Ethyl-, n-Propyl-, Isopropyl-, n-Butyl-, sek.-Butyl-, tert. Butyl- oder C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, stehen, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R₁–R₄ eine C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, darstellt. Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is present to improve skin moisture while omitting comedogenic substances.

in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group which is substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, provided that at least one of R ₁ -R _{4 is} a C C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups.

Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is selected from compounds in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl , Ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, provided that at least one of R ₁ and R ₂ and simultaneously at least one of R ₃ and R _{4 is} a C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups.

Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one alkyl or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is selected from bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the formula (A), in particular N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, in a total amount of 0.01-50% by weight. %, preferably 0.1-20 wt .-%, more preferably 1-10 wt .-% and most preferably 2-5 wt .-%, based on the total composition, included. N, N'-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, a crystalline solid at room temperature, is available, for example, as a Hydrovance commercial product from National Starch and Chemical Company as an approximately 45-55% aqueous solution containing urea and ammonium lactate. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain, based on their weight, from 0.75 to 4.5% by weight, preferably from 1 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 3.5% by weight and in particular from 2.5 to 3 , 2% by weight of N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea.

The compositions of the invention may also contain (unsubstituted) urea. Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 3% by weight, even more preferred 0.4 to 2 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 1.5 wt .-% urea.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one natural betaine compound. Natural betaine compounds of the invention are naturally occurring compounds having the atomic group R ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -X-COO ^- according to IUPAC Rule C-816.1. So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) do not fall under the betaine compounds used according to the invention, nor any other zwitterionic compounds in which the positive charge on N or P and the negative charge formally reside on O, S, B or C, but which are not of the IUPAC Comply with rule C-816.1. According to the invention preferred betaine are betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^-) carnitine and (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ -COO ^-), each with Me = methyl and X = C-C single bond (in Case of betaine) or X = -CHOH-CH ₂ - (in the case of carnitine).

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one natural betaine compound in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt. , in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the active ingredient combination according to the invention, at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or α-hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form. Preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids according to the invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2- Hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gular acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid. The esters of said acids are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that in addition to the combination of active substances according to the invention at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid and / or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or a derivative, in particular an ester, a lactone or a salt thereof, in a total amount of 0, 01-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1-5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5-1-2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one flavonoid or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract. The flavonoids preferred according to the invention include the glycosides of the flavones, the flavanones, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols), the aurones and the isoflavones. Particularly preferred flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercetin, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin), hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4 '-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside, hesperetin-7-O-rhamnoglucoside), neohesperidin, rutin (3,3', 4 ', 5,7-pentahydroxy-flavone-3-rhamnoglucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), troxerutin (3, 5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin ( 3,3 ', 4', 5-Tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), diosmin (3 ', 4', 7-trihydroxy-5-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside), eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone-7-glucoside).

Extremely preferred flavonoids according to the invention are α-glucosylrutin, naringin and apigenin-7-glucoside.

Also preferred are the constructed from two flavonoid biflavonoids, z. B. occur in gingko species. Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin, hesperidin methyl chalcone and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one flavonoid in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight. % and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the flavonoid active substance in the total cosmetic composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one isoflavonoid or at least one isoflavonoid-rich plant extract. The isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides are counted at this point as isoflavonoids.

For the purposes of the present invention, isoflavones are to be understood as meaning substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, hydrogenation of which may be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation under Formation of a carbonyl group in the 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand. The isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin. Particularly preferred isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin.

In the isoflavone glycosides preferred according to the invention, the isoflavones are glycosidically linked via at least one hydroxy group to at least one sugar. Suitable sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose. Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin.

It is furthermore preferred according to the invention if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides are contained in the preparations as constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a plant extract. Such vegetable substance mixtures can be obtained in a manner familiar to the person skilled in the art, for example by squeezing or extracting from plants such as soya, red clover or chickpeas. Isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of extracts obtained from soybean are particularly preferably used in the preparations according to the invention, as described, for example, under the product name Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) are commercially available. Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple seed extract, in particular the commercial product Ederline from Seporga. Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one isoflavonoid in a total amount of 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably 0.001 to 0.1% by weight. %, in each case based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one polyphenol or one polyphenol-rich plant extract.

According to the invention, polyphenols are aromatic compounds which contain at least two phenolic hydroxyl groups in the molecule. These include the three dihydroxybenzenes catechol, resorcinol and hydroquinone, phloroglucin, pyrogallol and hexahydroxybenzene. In nature, free and etherified polyphenols occur, for example, in floral dyes (anthocyanidins, flavones), in tannins (catechins, tannins), as lichen or fern ingredients (usnic acid, acylpolyphenols), in lignins and as gallic acid derivatives. Preferred polyphenols are flavones, catechins, usnic acid, and as tannins the derivatives of gallic acid, digallic acid and digalloylgallic acid. Particularly preferred polyphenols are the monomeric catechins, ie the derivatives of flavan-3-ols, and leucoanthocyanidins, ie the derivatives of leucoanthocyanidins which preferably carry phenolic hydroxyl groups in the 5,7,3 ', 4', 5 'position, preferably epicatechin and epigallocatechin, as well as the tannins resulting from self-condensation. Such tannins are preferably not used in isolated pure substance, but as extracts of tanning-rich plant parts, eg. Extracts of catechu, quebracho, oak bark and pine bark, as well as other tree bark, leaves of green tea (camellia sinensis) and mate. Also particularly preferred are the tannins. A particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Sepivinol R, an extract of red wine, available from Seppic. Another particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Crodarom Chardonnay L, an extract from the cores of the Chardonnay grape, available from Croda. According to the invention, the polyphenols are preferred in amounts of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 5 wt .-% and extremely preferably 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, in each case based on the weight of the commercial product containing at least one polyphenol, used in the entire composition according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain silymarin. According to the invention, silymarin is an active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum) which was previously regarded as a uniform substance. The main constituents of silymarin are silybin (silymarin I), silychristin (silymarin II) and silydianin, which belong to the group of flavanolignans.

Compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain silymarin in amounts of 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 0.01% by weight and more preferably 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one naturally occurring xanthine derivative selected from caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and aminophylline. According to the invention, the naturally occurring xanthine derivatives are preferred in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably from 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, based in each case on entire composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain ectoine. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate. According to the invention, ectoine is preferably present in amounts of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain creatine. Creatine is the common name for N-methyl-guanidino-acetic acid or N-amidinosarcosine. According to the invention, creatine is preferred in amounts of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.01 to 0.1% by weight, based in each case on the total composition, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one olive leaf extract (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract). An inventively particularly preferred olive leaf extract is available under the trade name Oleanoline DPG from the company Vincience. Another invention particularly preferred olive leaf extract is under the trade name Olea europ Fol extr. S. sicc. available from Fruitarom.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one olive leaf extract in a total amount of from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 1 to 2% by weight. %, in each case based on the extract as a commercial product tel quel in the entire composition according to the invention.

Olive leaf extracts may have a high content of oleanolic acid and / or oleanol. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain oleanolic acid, oleanol and / or oleuropein. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain oleanolic acid, oleanol and / or oleuropein in a total amount of 0.00001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1% by weight and more preferably 0.05 to 0.1% by weight .-%, in each case based on the total composition of the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain ursolic acid. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise ursolic acid in a total amount of 0.00001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.05 to 0.1% by weight, in each case to the entire composition of the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one active substance which is selected from the mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters. According to the invention, polyhydroxystilbenes are understood to mean stilbenes which are substituted by 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10 hydroxyl groups on the two phenyl radicals, it being possible for these to be esterified. Mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. Particularly preferred hydroxystilbenes and their esters according to the invention are selected from resveratrol (trans-stilbene-3,4'-5-triol), the resveratrol mono-, di- and triphosphoric acid esters and their salts. An inventively particularly preferred Resveratrolphosphorsäureester is trisodium resveratrol triphosphates, z. Available from Ajinomoto.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active agent selected from the mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters, in a total amount of 0.000001-5% by weight, preferably 0.00001-1 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005-0.05 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

• – sodium mannuronate methylsilanol (Algisium, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol mannuronate (Algisium C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol mannuronate Nylon-12 (Algisium C powder^®, Exsymol)
• – ascorbylmethylsilanol (Ascorbosilane concentrate C^®, Exsymol)
• – ascorbylmethylsilanol pectinate (Ascorbosilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – dimethyl oxobenzodioxsilane (DSBC^®, Exsymol)
• – dimethyl oxobenzodioxasilane Nylon-12 (DSBC powder^®, Exsymol)
• – sodium hyaluronate dimethylsilanol (DSH^®, Exsymol)
• – dimethylsilanol hyaluronate (DSHC^®, Exsymol)
• – methysilanol glycyrrhizinate (Glysinol^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanolhydroxyproline (Hydroxyprolisilane^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanolhydroxyproline aspartate (Hydroxyprolisilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – sodium lactate methylsilanol (Lasilium^®, Exsymol)
• – lactoylmethylsilanol elastinate (Lasilium C^®, Exsymol)
• – dioleyl tocopheryl methylsilanol (Liposiliol C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol acetylmethionate (Methiosilane^®, Exsymol)
• – acetylmethionylmethylsifanol elastinate (Methiosilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol tri PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol elastinate (Proteosilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – pyrollidone carboxylate caustic methylsilanol (Silhydrate^®, Exsymol)
• – pyrollidone carboxylate copper methylsilanol (Silhydrate C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanolcarboxymethyl theophylline (Theophyllisilane^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilancarboxymethyl theophylline alginate (Theophyllisilane C^® Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol acetyltyrosine (Tyrosilane^®, Exsymol)
• – copper acetyl tyrosinate methylsilanol (Tyrosilane C^®, Exsymol).

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one derivative of methylated silanol, preferably at least one ester of methylated silanol. Preferred derivatives of methylated silanol are selected from:

• - sodium mannuronate methylsilanol (algisium, exsymol)
• - Mannuronate methylsilanol (Algisium C ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol Mannuronate Nylon-12 (Algisium C powder ^®, Exsymol)
• - ascorbylmethylsilanol (Ascorbosilane concentrate C ^®, Exsymol)
• - ascorbylmethylsilanol pectinate (Ascorbosilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - dimethyl oxobenzodioxsilane (DSBC ^®, Exsymol)
• - dimethyl oxobenzodioxasilane Nylon-12 (DSBC ^® powder, Exsymol)
• - sodium hyaluronate dimethylsilanol (DSH ^®, Exsymol)
• - dimethylsilanol hyaluronate (DSHC ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methysilanol glycyrrhizinate (Glysinol ^® , exsymol)
• - methylsilanolhydroxyproline (Hydroxyprolisilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanolhydroxyproline aspartate (Hydroxyprolisilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - sodium lactate methylsilanol (Lasilium ^® , exsymol)
• - lactoylmethylsilanol elastinate (Lasilium C ^®, Exsymol)
• - dioleyl tocopheryl methylsilanol (Liposiliol C ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol acetylmethionate (Methiosilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - acetylmethionylmethylsifanol elastinate (Methiosilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanol PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanol tri PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol C ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol elastinate (Proteosilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - pyrollidone carboxylate caustic methylsilanol (Silhydrate ^® , exsymol)
• - pyrollidone carboxylate copper methylsilanol (Silhydrate C ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanolcarboxymethyl theophylline (Theophyllisilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilancarboxymethyl theophylline alginate (Theophyllisilane ^® C Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol acetyltyrosine (Tyrosilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - copper acetyl tyrosinate methylsilanol (Tyrosilane C ^®, Exsymol).

Particularly preferred are sodium hyaluronates dimethylsilanol, dimethylsilanol hyaluronates, methylsilanol mannuronates, methylsilanol hydroxyproline and methylsilanol hydroxyproline aspartates. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one derivative of methylated silanol in total amounts of 0.001-5% by weight, preferably 0.005-1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.01-0.5% by weight, in each case based on the active substance in the entire composition according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain phytic acid. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain phytic acid in a total amount of 0.001-1% by weight, preferably 0.01-0.5% by weight and more preferably 0.05-0.1% by weight. -%, in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one extract of maize kernels (Zea may (kernel extract)). An extract of corn kernels which is particularly preferred according to the invention is obtainable under the trade name Deliner from Coletica. This extract increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from extracts of maize kernels (Zea mays (Corn) Kernel Extract) in a total amount of 0.01-5% by weight, preferably 0 , 1-3 wt .-%, more preferably 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the content of extract tel quel in the entire composition. Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from corn kernel extracts (Zea mays (Corn) Kernel Extract) in a total amount of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0 , 0001-0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one extract of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract). A particularly preferred extract of oat grains according to the invention is available under the trade name Drago Beta Glucan (02/060800) from Symrise. This extract increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from extracts of oat grains (Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract) in a total amount of 0.01-5% by weight, preferably 0 , 1-3 wt .-%, more preferably 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the content of extract tel quel in the entire composition. Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one active ingredient selected from extracts of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract) in a total amount of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0 , 0001-0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one product which is obtained by fermentation of sweetened black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter ylinum, referred to as kombucha and bears the INCI name Saccharomyces / xylinum / Black Tea Ferment. Such products increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. A particularly preferred product is available under the trade name Kombuchka from the company Sederma (INCI name: Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment, glycerol, hydroxyethyl cellulose).

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from products obtained by fermentation of sweetened black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Xylinum and the INCI name Saccharomyces / xylinum / Black Tea Ferment carry, in a total amount of 0.01-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1-3 wt .-%, more preferably 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the content of product tel quel in the entire composition. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from products obtained by fermentation of sweetened black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter Xylinum and the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea ferment carry, in a total amount of 0.00001-1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-% contained, each based on the content of Active substance in the entire composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract). Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. Particularly preferred apple seed extracts according to the invention are available under the trade name Ederline from Seporga. The product Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes. Ederline is once in water-soluble form as Ederline-H (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), on the other in fat-soluble form as Ederline-L (INCI: Hexyldecanol , Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract).

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the raw material Ederline in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and particularly preferably 3-5% by weight, in each case on the entire composition, contain. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one apple seed extract in quantities of 0.00001-2% by weight, preferably 0.001-1.6% by weight and more preferably 0.03-1% by weight. %, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of lotus nuclei (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract). Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. A particularly preferred lotus germ extract according to the invention is available under the trade name Lotus Germ Extract with the INCI name Water, Butylene Glycol, Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract from Maruzen.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of lotus nuclei (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract) in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and more preferably 2-5% by weight. 3 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of lotus nuclei in amounts of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.001-0, 05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of red wine. Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. A particularly preferred red wine extract according to the invention is available under the trade name Sepivinol R from Seppic.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of red wine in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and particularly preferably 2-3% by weight. in each case based on the total composition. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of red wine in quantities of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.001-0, 05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one extract of grape seeds (Vitis vinifera (Grape) seed extract). Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. The grape seed extracts are particularly preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape. Particularly preferred grape seed extracts according to the invention are available under the trade name Herbalia Grape from Cognis or under the trade name Crodarom Chardonnay from Croda.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of grape seeds in quantities of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and particularly preferably 2-3% by weight. in each case based on the total composition. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of grape seeds in quantities of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and more preferably 0.001-0, 05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of black elder flowers (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract). Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. An invention particularly preferred extract of black elderflower is available under the trade name Sambucus AO from the company Alpaflor / Centerchem or Permcos.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of black elderflower in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-5% by weight and particularly preferably 2-3% by weight. , in each case based on the total composition. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of black elder flower in amounts of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and especially preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one active ingredient which stimulates beta-endorphin synthesis in keratinocytes. Stimulators of the beta-endorphin synthesis which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from mixtures of at least one extract from the leaves of Mentha piperita and at least one extract from cocoa beans, aqueous, glycolic or aqueous-glycolic preparations of these extract mixtures, which are sold under the trade names Caomint, Caophenol , Caobromine, Caospice and Caoorange available from the company Solabia, are particularly preferred. Another particularly preferred stimulator of beta-endorphin synthesis is the dipeptide derivative N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester with the INCI name acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, z. B. as an aqueous preparation under the trade name Calmosensine from the company Sederma is available.

Further preferred stimulators of beta-endorphin synthesis are extracts of Helichrysum italicum, e.g. B. available under the trade name Areaumat Perpetua from Codif, extracts from Crithmum Maritimum, z. B. available under the trade names Areaumat Samphira and Aroleat Samphira by Codif, extracts of Lavendula stoechas, z. B. available under the trade name Areaumat Lavanda by the company Codif, extracts of Mentha piperita, as z. Available under the trade names Authenticals of Peppermint (Solabia) and Calmiskin (Silab), glutamylamidoethyl indoles, e.g. B. available under the trade name Glistin exsymol, obtained by microbial fermentation branched polysaccharide with rhamnose, galactose and glucuronic acid units with the INCI name Biosaccharides Gum-2, z. B. available under the trade name Rhamnosoft from the company Solabia, extracts from the seeds of Tephrosia Purpurea with the INCI name Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract, z. B. available under the trade name Tephroline from Vincience, mixtures of the oil of Mentha arvensis leaves, lime skin oil, cypress oil, lavender oil and Cistus Ladaniferus oil with the INCI name Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil and Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil and Cupressus Sempervirens Oil and Lavandula Hybrida Oil and Cistus Ladaniferus Oil, eg. B. available under the trade name V-Tonic (Gattefossé), and hexasaccharides according to FR 2842201 as well as any mixtures of these active ingredients.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active substance for stimulating beta-endorphin synthesis in total amounts of 0.01-10% by weight, preferably 0.1-5% by weight, and particularly preferably 1-3 wt .-%, each based on the commercial product containing the active ingredient, in the entire composition of the invention included. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient for stimulating beta-endorphin synthesis in total amounts of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05% by weight, based in each case on the content of active substance in the total composition according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention for supporting the action of the photocatalytically active metal oxide used according to the invention, in particular titanium dioxide, comprise at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient. Sebum-regulating active substances preferred according to the invention are selected from 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid and the esters of azelaic acid, in particular potassium azeloyl diglycinate, 1,10-decanediol and at least one extract of Spiraea ulmaria, glycyrrhizin, which is also referred to as glycyrrhizic acid or glycyrrhetinic acid glycoside and the beta-glucuronido-alpha-glucuronide of glycyrrhetinic acid, and their salts, tannic acid and its salts, gallotannins, naringin, mixtures of glycyrrhizin (salts), tannic acid (salts) and / or gallotannins and naringin, as for example as a commercial product BiSCos Glynarin PF (INCI: Aqua (Water), Alacohol, Ohenoxyethanol, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Tannic Acid, Naringine) from the company Biesterfeld are available, further from water and oil-soluble extracts of witch hazel, burdock root and stinging nettle, Zimtbaumextract (z. (B. Sepicontrol A5 ^® by the company SEPPIC), chrysanthemum extract eg Laricyl ^®, ex Laboratoires Serobiologiques), Hefeproteinhydrolysaten as ^® series, ex Laboratoires Serobiologiques are available, for example in the commercial products the Asebiol, particularly Asebiol ^® LS 2539 BT 2 (INCI:. Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, glycerine, panthenol, allantoin, biotin) and Asebiol ^® LS 2539 BT (Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, glycerin, panthenol, propylene glycol, allantoin, Disodium azelates, biotin), and PEG-8 Isolauryl thioether as such. B. in the commercial product "Antifettfaktor ^® COS-218/2-A" of Cosmetochem is included (INCI: Aqua, cetyl-PCA, PEG-8 Isolauryl thioether, PCA, cetyl alcohol), and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. preferred Mixtures are available, for example, as the commercial product Acnacidol PG (propylene glycol, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid, 1,10-decanediol) from Vincience. A preferred extract of Spiraea ulmaria is z. B. contained in the product Seboregul 2 Silab. Kaliumazeloyldiglycinat is z. B. contained in the product Azeloglicina Sinerga. Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient in total amounts of 0.00001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight and more preferably 0.1 to 1-2 Wt .-%, each based on the active ingredient in the total composition according to the invention.

To support the photocatalytically active metal oxide used according to the invention, in particular titanium dioxide, the skin treatment compositions according to the invention preferably further comprise at least one particulate, sebum-sorbing agent, in particular talc, starch and other particles.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the particulate, sebum-sorbing active ingredient is selected from inorganic and organic cosmetic adsorbents having average particle diameters of 0.1-100 .mu.m, preferably 0.5-50 .mu.m, particularly preferably 5-30 .mu.m and extremely preferably 10-25 μm. Particularly preferred inorganic adsorbents are selected from silicas, particularly Aerosil ^® grades, silica gels, silica, clays and layered silicates, in particular bentonite or kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicates, in particular talc, and boron nitride, and mixtures of said substances. Particularly preferred organic adsorbents are selected from starches and starch derivatives, which may be chemically and / or physically modified, in particular modified starch derivatives of type DRY FLO ^® of National Starch and Chemical Company, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin, particularly sodium C _8-16 -Isoalkylsuccinyllactoglobulinsulfonat, z. B. available as a commercial product Biopol ^® OE Brooks Industries, polymer powders of polyolefins, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyamides, polyesters, polystyrenes, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polymethyl methacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers, Teflon or silicones , Wherein said polymer powders may be crosslinked in a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, and mixtures of said substances.

Polymer powder based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are z. B. as a commercial product Polytrap ^® 6603 (Dow Corning) available. Other polymer powders, e.g. Example based on polyamides, obtainable under the name Orgasol ^® 1002 (polyamide-6) and Orgasol ^® 2002 (polyamide-12) from Elf Atochem. Further according to the invention particularly preferred polymer powders are crosslinked polymethacrylates (Micro Pearl ^® M from SEPPIC or Plastic Powder A of NIKKOL), cross-linked polymethyl (Micro Pearl ^® M 305 and Micro Pearl ^® M 310 from SEPPIC), styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (e.g., B. Plastic Powder FP (of NIKKOL), polyethylene and polypropylene powder z. B. ACCUREL EP 400 ^® (ex AKZO) or silicone polymers z. B. silicone powder X2-1605 from Dow Corning).

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the particulate, sebumsorbierende drug on cavities. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the particulate, sebumsorbierende agent has hemispherical particles, more preferably at least 50 wt .-% of the particles are hemispherical. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the particulate, sebumsorbierende agent has hemispherical particles with cavities, more preferably at least 50 wt .-% of the particles are hemispherical with cavities.

Particularly preferred particulate, sebumsorbierende agents are crosslinked polymethyl methacrylates with average particle diameters of 5-50 microns, in particular the commercial products Micropearl ^® M 305 and Micropearl ^® M 310 SEPPIC. Extremely preferred particulate, sebumsorbierende agents are crosslinked polymethyl methacrylates with average particle diameters of 5-50 microns, which include hemispherical particles with cavities, more preferably at least 50 wt .-% of the particles are hemispherical with cavities, such as the commercial product Micropearl ^® M 310 of SEPPIC.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one particulate sebum-sorbing agent in a total amount of from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 1.5 to 3% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one organic skin lightening agent. Skin-lightening active ingredients which are preferred according to the invention are selected individually or in mixtures selected from hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, extracts Licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra), extracts from different parts of the mulberry (Morus spp., Especially from Morus alba and here in particular extracts from the bark, stem, leaves and fruits), extracts from Scutellaria spp. (Skullcap), in particular from Scutellaria baicalensis (Baikal helmetwort) and here in particular extracts from the root, extracts from Waltheria indica ("Sleepy Morning") and in particular extracts from the leaves, extracts of bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (L. ), Ericaceae) and in particular extracts from the leaves, extracts of cranberry (leaves and flowers), extracts of blueberry (fruits), extracts of leaf buds of pear trees, aniseed oil, extracts of blackberry leaves, furthermore extracts of Pyrola rotundifolia (round-leaved wintergreen), Cucumber and / or lime, furthermore ascorbic acid, coumaric acid ((Z) -2-hydroxycinnamic acid) and cis-9-octadecenedioic acid (other nomenclature: cis-8-hexadecene dicarboxylic acid), the latter being commercially available, for example. B. under the name Arlatone DIOIC DCA from Uniqema, and the esters and / or salts of these acids. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one organic skin lightening agent in total amounts of from 0.00001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.1 to 1. 2 wt .-%, each based on the active ingredient in the total composition according to the invention.

Advantageously, the skin treatment compositions according to the invention are in the form of a liquid, flowable or solid oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, multiple emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water-in-oil or water-in Oil-in-water emulsion, macroemulsion, miniemulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, Pickering emulsion, hydrodispersion, hydrogel, lipogel, a mono- or multiphase solution, a foam, a powder, or a mixture with at least one polymer suitable as a medical adhesive. The agents may also be presented in anhydrous form, such as an oil or a balm. Here, the carrier may be a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil or a mixture of such oils.

In a particular embodiment of the agents according to the invention, the agents are present as microemulsions. In the context of the invention, microemulsions are understood as meaning not only the thermodynamically stable microemulsions but also the so-called "PIT" emulsions. These emulsions are systems with the 3 components water, oil and emulsifier, which are present at room temperature as an oil-in-water emulsion. When these systems are heated, microemulsions are formed in a certain temperature range (referred to as the phase inversion temperature or "PIT") and, on further heating, convert to water-in-oil emulsions. Upon subsequent cooling, O / W emulsions are again formed, but they are also present at room temperature as microemulsions or as very finely divided emulsions having an average particle diameter of less than 400 nm and in particular of about 100-300 nm. According to the invention, those micro- or "PIT" emulsions may be preferred which have an average particle diameter of about 200 nm.

By the term perfume oil is meant preferably self-contained perfume compositions which are commonly used for product scenting and, in particular, are fragrant by human judgment. This will be explained with an example. If an expert wants to To make a deodorant fragrant, he usually adds to it not only a (well) smelling substance, but a collective of (well) smelling substances. Such a collective usually consists of a plurality of individual fragrances, e.g. more than 10 or 15, preferably up to 100 or more. These fragrances cooperatively form a desired fragrant, harmonious odor image.

A perfume oil according to the invention may contain individual perfume compounds, e.g. containing the synthetic products of the ester type, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are known e.g. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate (DMBCA), phenylethylacetate, benzylacetate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate, benzylsalicylate, cyclohexylsalicylate, floramate, melusate and jasmecyclate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether and ambroxane, to the aldehydes e.g. the linear alkanals having 8-18 C atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxy-acetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones e.g. the ionones, ∞-isomethylionone and methylcedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons include mainly the terpenes such as limonene and pinene. However, mixtures of different fragrances are preferably used, which together produce an attractive fragrance of the perfume oil formed.

The perfume oils can also contain natural fragrance mixtures, such as those available from plant sources, eg pine, citrus, jasmine, patchouly, rose or ylang-ylang oil. Also Muscat sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil and labdanum oil and orange blossom oil, neroliol, orange peel oil and sandalwood oil are suitable.

In order to be perceptible, a fragrance must be volatile, whereby besides the nature of the functional groups and the structure of the chemical compound, the molecular weight also plays an important role. For example, most odorants have molecular weights up to about 200 daltons, while molecular weights of 300 daltons and above are more of an exception. Due to the different volatility of fragrances, the smell of a fragrance composed of several fragrances changes during evaporation, whereby the odor impressions in "top note", "middle note or body" and "base note "(End note or dry out) divided.

Adhesive-resistant fragrances which are advantageously usable in the perfume oils in the context of the present invention are, for example, the essential oils such as angelica root oil, aniseed oil, arnica blossom oil, basil oil, Bay oil, Champacablütenöl, Edeltannöl, Edeltannenzapfen oil, Elemiöl, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, spruce alder oil, galbanum oil, geranium oil, Ginger Grass Oil, Guajac Wood Oil, Gurjun Balm Oil, Helichrysum Oil, Ho Oil, Ginger Oil, Iris Oil, Cajeput Oil, Calam Oil, Camomile Oil, Camphor Oil, Kanaga Oil, Cardamom Oil, Cassia Oil, Pine Needle Oil, Kopaïva Balsam Oil, Coriander Oil, Spearmint Oil, Cumin Oil, Cumin Oil, Lemongrass Oil, Musk Grain Oil, Myrrh Oil, Clove Oil, Neroli oil, Niaouli oil, Olibanum oil, Origanum oil, Palmarosa oil, Patchouli oil, Peru balsam oil, Petitgrain oil, Pepper oil, Peppermint oil, Pimento oil, Pine oil, Rose oil, Rosemary oil, Sandalwood oil, Celery oil, Star aniseed oil, Thuja oil, Thyme oil, Verbena oil, Vetiver oil, Juniper berry oil, Vermouth oil, Wintergreen oil, ylang-ylang oil, hyssop oil, cinnamon oil, cinnamon leaf oil and cypress oil.

But the higher-boiling or solid fragrances of natural or synthetic origin can be used in the context of the present invention advantageously as adherent fragrances or fragrance mixtures in the perfume oils. These compounds include the following compounds and mixtures thereof: ambrettolide, α-amylcinnamaldehyde, anethole, anisaldehyde, anisalcohol, anisole, methyl anthranilate, acetophenone, benzylacetone, benzaldehyde, ethyl benzoate, benzophenone, benzyl alcohol, borneol, bornyl acetate, α-bromostyrene, n -Decylaldehyde, n-dodecylaldehyde, eugenol, eugenol methyl ether, eucalyptol, farnesol, fenchone, fenchyl acetate, geranyl acetate, geranyl formate, heliotropin, heptincarboxylic acid methyl ester, heptaldehyde, hydroquinone dimethyl ether, hydroxycinnamaldehyde, hydroxycinnamyl alcohol, indole, iron, isoeugenol, isoeugenol methyl ether, isosafrole, jasmon , Camphor, Karvakrol, Karvon, p-cresol methyl ether, coumarin, p-methoxyacetophenone, methyl-n-amyl ketone, methyl anthranilate, p-methylacetophenone, methylchavikole, p-methylquinoline, methyl-β-naphthyl ketone, methyl-n-nonylacetaldehyde, methyl-n nonyl ketone, muskon, β-naphthol ethyl ether, β-naphthol methyl ether, nerol, nitrobenzene , n-nonylaldehyde, nonyl alcohol, n-octylaldehyde, p-oxyacetophenone, pentadecanolide, β-phenylethyl alcohol, phenylacetaldehyde dimethylacetal, phenylacetic acid, pulegone, safrole, isoamyl salicylate, methyl salicylate, hexyl salicylate, cyclohexyl salicylate, santalol, skatole, terpineol, thymene, thymol , γ-undelactone, vaniline, veratrum aldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, cinnamic acid, cinnamic acid ethyl ester, cinnamic acid benzyl ester.

Among the more volatile fragrances, which are advantageously used in the perfume oil in the context of the present invention, in particular the lower-boiling fragrances include natural or synthetic origin, which can be used alone or in mixtures. Examples of more readily volatile fragrances are alkyl isothiocyanates (alkyl mustard oils), butanedione, limonene, linalool, linalyl acetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral, citronellal.

All of the above-mentioned fragrances can be used alone or as a mixture in the perfume oils according to the present invention with the advantages already mentioned.

In particular, fragrances from the group of allyl alcohol esters, esters of secondary alcohols, esters of tertiary alcohols, allylic ketones, acetals, ketals, condensation products of amines and aldehydes and / or mixtures thereof may be included in the perfume oil.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains certain minimum values of perfume oil, namely at least 0.00001% by weight, advantageously at least 0.0001% by weight, in a considerably advantageous manner at least 0.001% by weight, more preferably at least 0, 01 wt .-%, in a further advantageous manner at least 0.1 wt .-%, more preferably at least 0.2 wt .-%, in a very advantageous manner at least 0.3 wt .-%, in a particularly advantageous manner at least 0.4 wt .-%, most preferably at least 0.45 wt .-%, in a significantly advantageous manner at least 0.5 wt. %, very advantageously at least 0.55 wt .-%, in an extremely advantageous manner at least 0.6 wt .-%, most advantageously at least 0.65 wt .-%, most advantageously at least 0.7 wt. -%, in an exceptionally advantageous manner at least 0.75 wt .-%, in an exceptionally advantageous manner at least 0.8 wt .-%, in an extremely advantageous manner at least 0.85 wt .-%, in particular at least 0.9 wt. % of perfume oil, based on the total agent.

In a preferred embodiment, the perfume oils contain less than 8, advantageously less than 7, more preferably less than 6, more preferably less than 5, more preferably less than 4, even more preferably less than 3, preferably less than 2, especially no fragrances from the list Amylcinnamal, Amylcinnamylalkohol, Benzylalcohol, Benzylsalicylat, Cinnamylalkohol, Cinnamal, Citral, Cumarin, Eugenol, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Hydroxymethylpentylcyclohexencarboxaldehyde, Isoeugenol, Anisylalkohol, Benzylbenzoat, Benzylcinnamat, Citronellol, Farnesol, Hexylcinnamaldehyd, Lilial, d-Limonen, Linalool , Methylheptincarbonate, 3-methyl-4- (2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl) -3-buten-2-one, oak moss extract, tree moss extract.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is free of perfume oil components, in particular in products for sensitive skin.

Another object of the present invention is a method for the treatment of facial surfaces with unwanted hairiness, characterized in that a Platycodinhaltige preparation is applied to the facial surfaces.

Experimental part

In vitro studies on the efficacy of Platycodin D in reducing melanogenesis

The melanogenesis-reducing effect of platycodin D was investigated by differential gene expression analysis. Gene expression of certain melanogenesis-associated markers (c-kit, gp100) was determined on organotypic hair follicle cell cultures by quantitative RT-PCR. For this purpose, cell cultures treated with platycodin D were compared with untreated cell cultures. The three-dimensional organotypic hair follicle cell cultures were prepared from dermal papillae, keratinocytes of the outer root sheath, and fibroblasts. They were treated with platycodin D at various concentrations. Using the RNeasy Mini Kit (Qiagen), the RNA was isolated from these cultures according to the manufacturer's instructions and transcribed by reverse transcription into cDNA. In the subsequent PCR reaction, which is carried out with the aid of gene-specific primers for the respective genes and which serves to amplify the gene sections sought, the formation of the PCR products is detected online via a fluorescence signal. The fluorescence signal is proportional to the amount of the PCR product formed. The stronger the expression of a particular gene, the greater the amount of PCR product produced and the higher the fluorescence signal. To quantify gene expression, the untreated control is set equal to 1 and the expression of the genes to be determined referred to (x-fold expression). Values greater than or equal to 1.5-fold expression or less than or equal to 0.5-fold expression of the untreated control are classified as significantly differentially expressed. Table 1: Effect of platycodin D on the expression of melanogenesis-associated genes gp100 c-Kit untreated control 1 1 0.5 μM platycodin D 0.4 0.9 1.0 μM platycodin D 0.5 1.3 5.0 μM platycodin D 0.3 0.5

Gene expression analysis revealed that platycodin D at a concentration of 5 μM caused a significant reduction of melanogenesis-associated genes.

Explanations

• c-Kit, also referred to as tyrosine kinase KIT, CD117, c-kit or stem cell factor receptor, is a protein of the family of receptor tyrosine kinases present in the membrane of various body cells.
• GP-100, also referred to as glycoprotein 100, gp100 or melanocyte protein PMEL, is a type I transmembrane glycoprotein with 661 amino acids, which is found mainly in the melanosomes.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• JP 2000198712 A [0004]
• WO 2011/099665 A1 [0004]
• FR 2842201 [0236]

Cited non-patent literature

• "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) [0065]

Claims (10)

Cosmetic non-therapeutic use of platycodins to influence gene expression of a) MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1) and / or b) gp100 and / or c) ckit and / or in melanocytes of the skin and / or skin appendages. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the gene expression is inhibited. Cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of platycodines for the treatment of unwanted hair growth on the face, especially in the female area above the upper lip. Use according to one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that platycodin D of the formula (I)

with R1 = R3 = R4 = -H and R2 = -CH ₂ OH is used. Cosmetic composition containing - based on its weight - a) 0.1-20.0% by weight shea butter b) 0.00001 to 1% by weight of at least one platycodin. Cosmetic composition according to claim 5, characterized in that it contains, based on its weight, 0.25-15.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-10.0% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0-7, 5 wt .-% and in particular 2.5 to 5.0 wt .-% shea butter. Cosmetic composition according to one of Claims 5 or 6, characterized in that, based on its weight, it contains from 0.00001 to 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.00025 to 0.25% by weight, more preferably 0, 0005 to 0.1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.00075 to 0.05 wt .-% and in particular 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-% platycodin D of the formula (I)

with R1 = R3 = R4 = -H and R2 = -CH ₂ OH. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 5 to 7, characterized in that it contains at least one further active ingredient selected from a) purine and purine derivatives, b) natural betaine compounds, c) urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas, d) monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, e) polysaccharides, f) hyperemicating active compounds, and g) mixtures of the substances a) -f). Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 5 to 8, characterized in that it further contains at least one agent which enhances and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts - apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), - lotus germ extracts (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract), Corn kernel extracts (Zea mays (Corn) Kernel Extract), - red wine extracts, Grape seed extracts (Vitis vinifera (Grape) seed extract), which are preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape, Extracts of black elderflower (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract), Mixtures of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of peppermint leaves (Mentha piperita), Hydroxystilbenes and their esters, in particular resveratrol and / or resveratrol mono-, di- and triphosphoric acid esters and salts thereof, furthermore from piceatannol, piceatannol ethers and Pinosylvin and Pinosylvinethern Isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts, - dihydroquercetin (= taxifolin), and mixtures thereof. Process for the treatment of facial surfaces with undesired hairiness, characterized in that a preparation containing platycodin is applied to the facial surfaces.