What is kishk?
Kishk is a traditional Lebanese preparation made from yogurt and bulgur. It is naturally fermented and then dried and ground to a coarse powder. It is also known as kushuk, keshkeh, or kichk.
What is the origin of kishk?
Kishk is derived from the Persian word kashk. Ancient preparation of kashk mixes cereals/grains with yogurt, ferment it naturally and then dry it in the sun. This is commonly found in many Central Asian, Mediterranean, and Arab cuisines.
Kishk also has various names such as jameed, tarhana, qurut, and shilanch.
Pickling, salting, and fermentation are a few of the ancient food preservation methods practiced across all civilizations. This technique inhibits the spoilage of food and extends the shelf life. The tradition of preserving foods in Lebanese culture is known as mouneh, which means “to store”.
The oldest Arab cookbook from the 10th century, Kitab al-Tabikh (The Cooking Book) by Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq, mentions kishkiyya, a stew made of dried kishk powder as a hangover cure.
Present-day kashk contains no cereals. Yogurt is cooked on medium heat until the whey separates and the liquid component is completely evaporated. Then the remaining fat pulp is strained through a cheesecloth and kept aside to dry. The dried end product is kashk.
How to prepare kishk
Preparation of kishk requires only two main ingredients. It is a mixture of labneh and bulgur (wheat) that is fermented for ten days, sun-dried (traditionally), and then powdered. It serves as a nutritious reserve to survive during the cold months.
The mixture is salted and thoroughly kneaded every day to prevent the formation of molds. Fermented moist kishk obtained after eleven days is known as kishk akhdar or fresh kishk. Then, it is made into balls and preserved in olive oil, or is left to sun-dry to obtain a dry powder.
Once completely dried, kishk akhdar is rubbed between the fingers to remove lumps, and to be made into a coarse powder or ground in the flour mill.
The type of yogurt used in the fermentation process slightly modifies the flavor of the end product. The traditional preparation uses goat’s milk, whereas it is also common to use cow’s or sheep’s milk. The taste and color of kishk also varies according to the type of bulgur used. Southern regions use brown bulgur while the other regions use white.
Dried kishk keeps well for months, almost a year when stored in an airtight container at room temperature.
What is labneh?
One of the key ingredients in preparing kishk is labneh. Labneh, spelled as lebneh, labni, or labne, is a creamy, tangy, whey strained yogurt. It is thicker than Greek yogurt and spreadable like cream cheese. It is either used as a dip, served with stews or vegetables, and is always a part of the mezze menu.
In Lebanon, labneh drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with za’atar (a Middle Eastern spice blend) on the side of a piece of toasted or pita bread is usually served for breakfast.
Outside the Middle East, use Greek yogurt or other kinds of thick yogurt available in the supermarket to make kishk. Labneh can also be made at home.
Bulgur wheat
Bulgur or burghul (Persian origin, meaning “bruised grains”) is a staple ingredient in Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cooking. It is made from parboiled or steamed durum wheat. The cooked grains are then dried and ground coarsely. Burghul is a main ingredient in making porridges, pilafs, soups, stews, salads like tabbouleh.
Lebanese recipes using kishk as the main ingredient
There are various ways in which Lebanese eat kishk. It is used as a topping on flatbreads and salads, and to flavor and thicken soups, stews, and gravies or sauces.
Shurabat al kishk is a Lebanese soup prepared using fermented kishk powder. Traditionally the soup contains goat or lamb, or it can be made with just vegetables such as carrots and potatoes, onions, and garlic, as a purely vegetarian dish. The soup is also known as sorbet kishk or kishkiyye.
Kishk is also used as a topping, along with finely chopped onions, tomato, and pepper paste on the dough to make ma’noushé bel kishk, a Lebanese flatbread. Kibbeh, croquettes made of minced meat or lamb, include kishk powder.
Kishk
Ingredients
For the kishk (makes 1lb / 400g)
- 1 cup coarse bulgur (khichin)
- 2½ cups thick yogurt (labné)
- 2 teaspoons salt
For the shurabat al kishk (kishk soup)
- 2 onions , finely diced
- 6 cloves garlic , minced
- 10 oz kishk
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 3 medium potatoes , finely diced
- 2 carrots , finely diced
- 2 tablespoons ghee (clarified butter)
- 8 cups boiling water
- Salt
- Pepper
- 4 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
Instructions
Kishk
- In a bowl, mix the yogurt and the bulgur.
- Cover the bowl with a cloth and let the mixture sit in a cool place for 8 hours, by which time the bulgur should have absorbed most of the moisture from the yogurt.
- While adding the salt, knead the mixture then fold it and turn it several times with the hands.
- If the dough feels too dry and is able to absorb some more moisture, add more yogurt and knead again.
- Cover with a cloth and let ferment at room temperature for 10 days. (During these 10 days, mix the kishk daily).
- After 24 hours, fold and turn over the mixture several times.
- Continue to mix the mixture every day for 9 days to unify the surface and protect the kishk from mold growth.
- At the end of these 10 days, dry the kishk by spreading it out on a baking sheet, and place it in a sunny place, in a dehydrator, under a fan, or in a hot oven at 100 F (40°C). As it dries, crumble it into small pieces.
- Once the kishk is completely dry, use a mortar and pestle or food processor to powder it.
- Store at room temperature, in a dry place, in a tightly closed glass jar.
Shurabat al kishk
- Heat the oil in a Dutch oven and fry the onions.
- Once the onion is translucent, add the boiling water and bring to a boil.
- Add the diced potatoes and carrots, cover and cook over low to medium heat for 30 minutes or until the vegetables are tender.
- In a skillet, heat the ghee over medium heat and brown the garlic without coloring it.
- Add the kishk and fry for about 1 minute.
- Take 1 cup (250 ml) of broth from the pot and add it to the kishk in the pan.
- Stir until well combined, then add the liquefied kishk-garlic mixture to the soup in the Dutch oven.
- Add salt and pepper to taste.
- Cook for 10 minutes over medium-low heat, then serve the shurabat al Kishk garnished with parsley.
Video
Notes
Sources
Wikipedia – Bulgur
Taste Cooking
Wikipedia – Kashk
Hal Archives
Fondazione Slow Food
Washington Post
Nisha, born and raised in South India currently lives in Munich. She blogs at The Magic Saucepan, her personal creative space, focusing on traditional South Indian vegetarian food.
Amera Kadiri says
I’m trying to make kishik powder, but the mixture is too moist….can I add powdered milk to absorb the moisture?