Séverine Frerson, the first female cellar master at Maison Perrier-Jouët in Champagne.
Earning the title of cellar master for one of the world's most recognized Champagne houses is no easy task. But it's something Séverine Frerson achieved in 2018 when she succeeded Hervé Deschamps to become the first female cellar master in the history of Maison Perrier-Jouët. At that time, she joined a shortlist of only a few women to hold the position in all of Champagne. Originally from the historic Champagne village of Reims, Frerson has always been guided by her passion for wine. She studied enology at university and has dedicated her career to acquiring as much technical and practical experience as possible. This is complemented by both an exceptional intuition and memory that has allowed her to recall each wine in all of its complexity.
In honor of Women's History Month, we caught up with Frerson with a few questions about what it's like to be a piece of Champagne's wine story.
Where did you grow up, and when do you first remember becoming aware of wine?
My passion for wine was formed at an early age. I was born and raised in Champagne, though not from a family of winegrowers. Thanks to family's friends who owned a vineyard and produced their own Champagne, I discovered the world of wine. I have vivid memories of days spent playing between the rows of vines, of the singular smell of the cellars, or of the hectic activity during the harvest. Today, those sensory memories still produce the same excitement for me!
What made you decide to pursue wine as a career?
At 15, after graduating high school, I chose enology as my future career, studying at the prestigious University of Reims. It was natural to go down this path and make a career in wine. Wine has always been a passion of mine, so being able to evolve professionally in this world was just an obvious decision at that time.
"Cramant, France - August 27, 2012: Perrier-Jouet sign in front of rows of Perrier-Jouet vines near ... [+]
Was it hard to get into the enology/viticulture programs for university?
When the Enology degree was created, there were quotas to ensure the presence of women in this male-dominated field. Those quotas had been lifted a few years before I started, but there were only a few of us women in the industry still. I have had the chance to have a very supportive family, really encouraging me to pursue my passion.
Do you feel that it was hard for men in the industry to take you seriously at first? Or has the industry been open to women in wine for a while where you are?
I have had the chance to get guidance and inspiration from great male winemakers during the early stages of my career, giving me confidence and legitimacy.
Today, as one of the few females to hold such a Cellar Master position in Champagne and the first to hold such a position in the over 200-year history of Perrier-Jouët, I try to be an example for younger generations, and I work a lot with other women leaders in the industry to showcase successful female figures in the wine world, hopefully unlocking aspirations.
What has been your favorite part of your job?
There are many things I consider my favorite part of my job! I loved working with Hervé Deschamps, my predecessor, for two years, tasting, strolling in the vineyard, connecting with nature, getting to know all the subtleties of the Chardonnay signature of the Perrier-Jouët cuvées over the time, and imagining what it could taste like in the future.
Perrier-Jouët is a House with a lot of soul and a deep connection with its history. In particular, I feel a special affinity for the spirited young woman whose name is one half of Maison Perrier-Jouët, Rose-Adélaïde Jouët. Quite apart from the romance of her relationship with Pierre-Nicolas Perrier, I see Rose-Adélaïde Jouët as a woman of character and independence. She took an active role in receiving visitors and presenting the House and its cuvées. She placed great importance on exchange and conviviality, which is exactly what I do myself. I would never, for example, taste wines on my own – it's an experience I always want to share with others.
The vineyards at Maison Perrier-Jouët, Champagne, France.
What do you bring to the wine industry (or that women in general bring) that helps make it better?
Any time a new perspective comes to the table, it's a win for the wine industry. As women, it's natural that we have different life experiences and unique perspectives that we bring to all aspects of our work. For my tasting committee, I love to gather people, men, and women, of course, with different experiences and sensibilities. This complementarity is a richness when tasting, allowing us to reach nuances of the Perrier-Jouët style.
What are some of your goals for taking the brand forward?
As the eighth Perrier-Jouët Cellar Master, one of my biggest goals for this historic Maison is to spearhead major initiatives in sustainable viticulture.
The founders of Maison Perrier-Jouët were known for their progressive ideas on viticulture and vineyard management. The House had a reputation for producing fine-quality grapes and carefully nurtured vineyards. Today, as we continue to evolve in symbiosis with nature, we are transitioning towards a model inspired by regenerative viticulture with a goal to preserve the fragile ecosystem of our vineyards.
If you could work with any grape, regardless of climate or location, what would it be?
Chardonnay, of course! Chardonnay is the signature grape variety of Perrier-Jouët. The founders identified, in 1811, Chardonnay, especially from the Côte des Blancs, as the perfect variety to produce elegant and floral champagnes. At that time, it was an audacious decision as Chardonnay is the most challenging variety to grow in Champagne. Ever since, Chardonnay has been the backbone of the House style, bringing intricacy, floral notes, and a singular mouthfeel to all the Perrier-Jouët cuvées.
