The historic Farm House restaurant and bar in the quaint town of Olema got a recent sprucing along with a new name, Due West. The West Marin establishment has had the roadside saloon vibe down for more than 150 years and is recently garnering attention for its refresh under the direction of Mosaic Hotel Group, which is behind upscale properties in Sonoma, Napa, Palm Springs and Mexico.
Boutique and saloon conjure up fairly incongruous images. Will the local who may eschew trendy refinements and the tourist drawn to the region’s refined riches find equal contentment over a manageably priced beer and burger? I’d say Due West aptly accommodates both at what is described as a “rustic yet refined” upscale tavern that comfortably pleases the barroom denizens and the casually oriented out-of-towner. Some menu items have risen by a few dollars along with the remodel.
The Due West updates are part of the stylish renovation of the adjacent Lodge at Point Reyes, now called Olema House. Although it’s not apparent at first glance, the property sits on four private acres of expansive lawns and thriving gardens that include the bucolic Olema Creek. It’s a serene setting to meander with a pre-meal beverage.
I sensed more of a hometown than tourist ambiance on a recent Friday night. Families were unwinding at the end of the week, a large table of old-timers were raising their glasses along with the volume and a few bar patrons engaged in mellow banter. Service was genial and close to perfect, although I can’t say how that might change on an overflowing, mid-summer Saturday.
As would be expected in this gateway town that opens up to the growing and grazing grounds of the Point Reyes National Seashore, the cuisine at Due West rests on the farm-to-table ethos. Chef Justin Bruckert has come on board after transitioning from the now-defunct Pizza Molina in Mill Valley.
Bruckert’s menu is not extensive but the classics are well represented and executed with inventive flair.
Fresh and meaty Hog Island oysters ($19 for six, $36 for 12) come grilled swimming in garlic lemon butter with a thin veil of breadcrumbs or a tasty slathering of thick barbecue sauce, or raw with cucumber and ginger mignonette.
Artichokes ($9) are a welcomed arrival on a spring menu. Bruckert’s is quartered, grilled and served on a wood cutting board with a simple lemon- and garlic-infused aioli, and a charred halved lemon on the side.
The “adult” grilled cheese ($16, cured bacon add $2) gets a boost from Point Reyes Station’s Brickmaiden Breads. The thickly cut slices are adeptly griddled to a crisp but not painfully crusty finish. A thinish layer of fully melted cheeses melds right in but is sharp enough that the flavor shines through. A cup of roughly pureed, roasted tomato bisque soup with a swirl of olive oil and sprinkle of chopped basil is a fitting accompaniment. Other options include a house burger with fixings ($17) and a fried chicken sandwich ($22).
Steak frites ($29) is one of four entrées. Sliced New York strip steak is flawlessly grilled and rests of a pool of red wine reduction. The tender, juicy cut stands alone with just a touch of salt. Fries are a smooth, standard cut with a crisp golden exterior and fluffy center. A sprinkle of blue cheese and a brief soak in au jus sends these over the top. A delicate bunch of peppery arugula finishes the dish.
Four desserts are made in-house. Apple tart ($9) has a more firm than flaky crust and is prepared galette-style. The soft, thinly sliced fruit is sweetened with brown sugar, cinnamon and a drizzle of caramel. The vanilla ice cream topper is from local Straus Family Creamery.
The bar has a full craft cocktail menu with some creative concoctions ($10 to $14), including a few that are alcohol-free. Specialty beers ($4 to $9) flow from more than a dozen taps. Curated wines are predominately from Sonoma and Napa Valleys ($10 to $15 by the glass, $32 to $95 by the bottle).
The classic farmhouse style restaurant with blue-shingled siding and a white picket fence offers a number of indoor and outdoor dining spaces, including a private room for special events. The main dining room with bar is true roadside. Two tables straddle the front door. French bistro yellow metal tables and chairs shaded by umbrellas highlight the adjoining patio in front of the restaurant. In the rear, an elevated deck with pergola is lined with string lights.
Antique touches punctuate modern finishes. Heavy wood tables are edged in black steel. Walls are deep charcoal and contrast with pale plank wood floors and a crisp white ceiling. A long leather banquet lines the wall opposite the bar.
Due West is a saloon with sophistication but not so much so that it loses its roots in this thoughtfully refurbished structure. Up next is the reopening of the adjacent market for take-out artisan goods, picnic items, meals and snacks.
Leanne Battelle is a freelance food writer. Send her an email at ij.lbattelle@gmail.com with your comments or restaurant recommendations. Or you can follow the Marin dining scene at instagram.com/therealdealmarin.
Due West
Address: 10021 Coastal Highway 1, Olema
Phone: 415-663-1264
Website: olemahouse.com
Cuisine: Upscale farm-to-table
Service: Professional
Noise level: Medium to high
Liquor selection: Full bar
Corkage: $15 a bottle
Vegan dishes: Yes
Gluten-free selections: Yes
Organic offerings: Yes
Dog friendly: Yes
Parking: Free lot
Hours: Noon to 9 p.m. daily
Prices: $19 to $25
Reservations: Yes
Summary: The former Farm House restaurant and bar has been tastefully polished while maintaining its casual essence and offering an elevated menu under chef Justin Bruckert.
