Italy’s forgotten region – untroubled by time or tourists

We’ve all read about the untouched Greek island or the hidden corner of France, fabled places untroubled by time or tourists. Few, of course, are ever as pristine as presented.

Molise, though, a tiny region in south-central Italy just above Puglia and the spur of the famous boot, has a better claim to the unknown than most. True, in summer you might share its glorious beaches with Italians, but inland, and outside of the hottest months, you’ll barely encounter another visitor, Italian or otherwise.

Some places are unknown for good reason: there’s little to see or do. Molise is not one of those. Though Italy’s second smallest region – only Valle d’Aosta is smaller – it packs a varied and rich sightseeing punch. Better still, this is the Italy of another era, a place where the rural life is still lived and the traditions of food, family and religion are still celebrated.

So why is it unknown? Poverty, a peripheral position and a history that largely passed it by, save for the presence of the Samnites, a pre-Roman culture, the Romans themselves, and the odd incursion of Swabian, Norman and Bourbon, all of whom left a legacy of superlative antique ruins, lofty castles and lovely Romanesque churches.

Better still, the region’s varied landscapes, from coastal plains through pastoral, rolling hills to high Apennine peaks provide the setting for countless medieval hill-top villages that – like the region’s scenery – are the equal of anything in Tuscany or Umbria.

The equal of Tuscany and Umbria? It’s some claim. Likewise the assertion there’s hardly anyone around. But see for yourself, and you’ll find it’s all true.

Towns and villages

On the whole, avoid larger towns such as Isernia and Campobasso, making exceptions for charming Venafro and its fine archeological museum, and Termoli on the coast, close to the airport at Pescara (see below) and likely to be your first base.

As introductions go, it’s outstanding: walled in parts, flanked by superb beaches, and with a tight labyrinth of ancient streets that are home to an 11th-century Norman-Swabian castle, a fine Romanesque cathedral and Italy’s narrowest alley, A Rejecelle, so tight a fit (around 13 inches) you have to traverse it sideways.

Stay in the old centre at Locanda Alfieri (B&B doubles from £79), with contemporary rooms in a medieval setting. Eat in the old town at La Svevia, pricier than some places but with regional cooking served under lovely brick vaulting. 

Inland, you are spoiled for choice, with dozens of untouched villages, many huddled around castles or close to archaeological sites, most notably the remarkable Sepino, with Roman ruins that wouldn’t be out of place in Rome itself. Just as compelling are the sixth-century BC Samnite remains near the village of Pietrabbondante.

The region’s most-photographed village is Bagnoli del Trigno, tucked between two immense crags crowned by church and castle respectively. Other unmissable stops are Oratino, Fornelli and Frosolone, officially ranked, with Sepino, among Italy’s most beautiful villages. Also aim to see Scapoli, Agnone Ferrazzano and perhaps the evocative, part-abandoned Rocchetta a Volturno, high in the mountains.

Molise’s accommodation is still usually simple and inexpensive but if you want something extra as a base look at the four-star Borgotufi Albergo Difuso (doubles from £132) near the Abruzzese border or the more central Masseria Grande (doubles from £95), with rather plain rooms but in a fine rural setting with a pool.

The landscapes

Molise’s landscapes run the gamut, changing in a matter of miles from the beaches, pine woods and wheat-covered plains of the Adriatic coast through ever-higher pastoral hills to the majestic, craggy peaks of the high Apennines.

For particularly scenic roads, drive the N87 (Larino to Campobasso), the N17 from Vinchiaturo to Lelsi, and the N618 into the mountains from Frosolone. Or give up the car in favour of the so-called Italian Transiberian, a reopened rural railway line between Sulmona (in Abruzzo) to Isernia that runs through some of central Italy’s finest upland scenery. 

The railway touches 4,160ft (1,268m), but hiking will take you higher, with Monte Miletto the region’s loftiest point at 6,725ft (2,050m). This is a popular peak (avoid the route from Campitello), but the region is full of trails where you won’t meet a soul, many based on ancient transhumance tracks, or tratturi, that here have protected Unesco status – visit Komoot for walking recommendations or contact Molise Trekking for guided day and multi-day walks.

Molise’s range of terrain makes it ideal cycling country, whatever your fitness level. In Termoli, rent a bike at DPA and ride some of the beach roads north or the easy coastal Ciclovia Adriatica, the long-distance route from Trieste in Italy’s far northwest. 

Inland, Ciclolago recommends a variety of routes, from the family-friendly to the tougher 90-mile (145-km) Ciclovia di Volturno. Several rural farm stays, notably Essentia, provide road and e-bikes, guides (if required) and recommended routes.

The coast

Molise has just 22 miles (35km) of coastline, most of it delightful, distinguished by beautiful sandy beaches backed by pines, hence its moniker, the Costa Verde, or Green Coast.

Termoli’s huge Sant’Antonio town beach is a good place for families, with safe Green Flag bathing for all ages, plus lots of amenities and ranks of concessions (stabilimenti) that after a mile or so give way to free, unspoiled sand at Lido Alcione and around. The town’s other beach, Rio Vivo, is better for water sports.

Campomarino’s two-mile beach also has stabilimenti and stretches of free, unspoiled sand. Petacciato is often recommended, but its adjacent town could be nicer. Better are Ventotto and Montenero di Bisaccia, with calm, crystalline seas and silky stretches of sand: the dunes around the mouth of the Saccione river are an especially pretty target. 

While on the coast, make a point of seeing the eerily beautiful trabocchi around Termoli, spindly wooden walkways and fishing shacks built on stilts into the sea which are unique to Molise, Abruzzo and Puglia’s Gargano Peninsula.

Food and wine

Molise may be small but like any Italian region it has a host of specialities, not least white truffles, only found in quantity elsewhere in Italy in Piedmont. Olive oils are also superb, especially those that use local olive varieties such as aurina from Venafro and gentile from Larino.

Molise is also celebrated for onions (from Isernia), beans (from Riccia) and potatoes (from San Biase), the last often added to a local pasta, cavatelli, made with flour and water (no egg) and usually served with a lamb-based sauce or a local broccoli, spigatelli. 

Another pasta, the well-known fusilli, originated in Molise. Another, frascarelli, often used in soups, is virtually unknown outside the region. Ditto zengarielle, a type of spaghetti that incorporates spelt (farro). 

Cheeses are also excellent: caciocavallo from Agone, caprine from Montefalcone nel Sannio and the mountain cheeses from Fortore and Pietracatella. Among meats, lamb predominates but search out vruccularre (pork cheek) and capocallo, a coarse salame that’s almost a meal in itself.

Don’t forget the coast for fish and seafood galore – brodetto, a stew (of sorts), is the classic dish – but if you eat nothing else out of the ordinary in Molise, be sure to try pampanella, a spiced, roast pork often served in a roll as street food.

You’ll also find regional wines – and regional varietals – almost unknown elsewhere, notably Tintilia (a red); Biferno (red and white); and Moscato Giallo di Molise, a dessert wine. Standout producers include Di Majo Narante, Cianfagna, Cantina Catabbo and Claudio Cipressi.

Getting there

Ryanair flies daily to Pescara, the nearest airport to Molise. Bus #38 runs from the airport to Pescara’s railway station for connections to Termoli (around 1hr) and other points on the Molise coast. You’ll need a hire car to explore the interior properly, but the region’s bus network is helpful. 

Combine Molise with a trip to Puglia to the south and you can fly home from Bari with BA and Ryanair.

Further information

The region’s official site is excellent. Also helpful, but in Italian only, is moliseturismo.net.